Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
If you only have to replace the cable, you do not need to access the motor. When you unscrew the outer nut on the mask, and turn the radio off, then on, it will usually expel the cable. You can then check the cable to see if it is striped. I am a novice mechanic, only fixing mine, so some else in the forum may want to add more detail.
Tangman
Does anyone have suggestions on the best approach to fixing this tear?
Thanks.
I turn the dial on the dashboard to go into 4wd low and the light on the dashboard blinks and I hear a beep but they both never stop. Any suggestions. Do you need to be in a specific gear to get into 4wd low? Speed?
Your question indicates that you are trying this while the vehicle is moving. Read your owner's manual and you will see that Toyota states that to shift from H4 to L4, you must bring the vehicle to a stop and with the brake held down, shift into neutral and then turn the drive control switch fully clockwise.
Repeat this procedure to go from L4 to H4 and turn the drive control switch counterclockwise. Toyota's instructions also made a mistake in using the words "Clockwise and Counterclockwise" as instructed as the words should be reversed. If the light still blinks, then don't use the 4wd and take it back to the dealer for a checkup.
I bought a 4Runner( 1999 4WD SR5) in last August ,at 77,000 miles .I paid 16,499 $., so yours is a very good deal.Mine was fully serviced before delivery,timing belt replaced and all transmission fluids, flushed and changed.I have now used it for 5 months with absolutely no problems,Starts at first turn of ignition in the morning even after overnight snow.
Go ahead and grab this puppy.
Gary
Have 89 4R with v-6, 5spd. Great body. Compression is 165psi and hot idle oil pressure is 30psi.
THIS IS MY SORRY TALE:
NO CHECK ENGINE OR CODES FROM ECU.
Started to bog at low rpm. Replaced fuel pump; cold start injector, diaphram are ok. Replaced ALL SIX fuel injectors (They were cracked and leaking), plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor.
Is now burning rich; runs good when cold, then black smoke out tailpipe when it warms up and cylinders 5&6 periodically misfire. Plugs in 1-4 cyliners are black, but not oily.
Have put $3,500 into it. Mechanic is going to check sensors and ecu with ohm meter. He seems in over his head. TELL ME WHAT TO DO!
1. Remove 2 electrical connects to the starter.
2. Removed 2 bolts that hold the starter (in a difficult spot thanks to the drive train and exhaust lines (very little throw or leverage available in the socket wrench, plus a universal joint and many extenders)
3. Remove a bolt holding the Transmission Fluid filler tube, and then disconnect tube half way down.
4. Remove Right Front Wheel (no kidding)
5. Remove portion of right from wheel well.
6. Remove two bolts holding three brake lines (move brake lines gently out of the way).
7. Begin honing your skills as a contortionist to remove the starter through the wheel well.
8. Reverse procedure to install new starter.
The procedure works, it is just incredibly challenging to remove a simple starter. I wanted to provide this information for those about to attempt this on a 4WD 4Runner.
Steve, Host
thanks for input. They acknowledged a tsb on that when brought to their attention.
1. What damage can I expect to find?
2. Is a crate/rebuild the best option?
3. Can you swap the 3.4 or other engine?
4. What is the "hot tip" in this situation?
Thanks
awguthrie
But what you describe is a serious thing, and certainly needs to be fixed. Short of waiting until it's frequent enough to have the dealer duplicate it, there are a couple of things you might do.
First, check to see if the dash indicator light for the transmission shows any other gear than park when you're in park. You might try this repeatedly. Also, have you had any other looseness or sticky behavior with the shifter? Anything out of the ordinary. Finally, you might slide under the vehicle and look at the linkages (you can trace them back from the transmission part way) to see if there are any obvious problems such as debris, loose pins, damage from a rock or tire tread that got kicked up, etc.
If this happens again I'd consider going to the dealer and insisting that they have a mechanic take a look underneath even if they can't duplicate the problem. You might want to threaten to file a NHTSA report or complaint.
I can sympathize with a dealer who can't readily replicate the problem, since intermittent stuff is so frustrating for mechanics. But I think they should demonstrate that they take your concern very seriously, since this is such a significant hazard. It's easier to defend waiting to fix a cupholder that doesn't always retract or something like that.
My 2 bits (happy face here)
glee
BUT, those people usually drive a car whose engine is a non-interference one, so if the timing belt breaks, they'll just be stranded by the side of the road (assuming they can safely coast to the shoulder). The engine shouldn't be any worse for wear. No bent valve stems or other major carnage anyway.
The safe and prudent thing is to go by the manufacturer's recommendation.
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says that the belt should be replaced at 120,000 miles.
Steve, Host
I am in the middle of a big mess and desperately seeking advice! The engine for my 1995 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD V6 110.000 miles recently overheated. I was able to drive it briefly and then had to push it to the nearby mechanic shop.
The next day, the mechanic informed me that the radiator which blew its cap needed to be replaced as well as the fan and thermostat which were working but due for replacememnt. However, upon performing the above repairs the mechanic (Mechanic #2) discovered that the previous mechanic (Mechanic #1) who had replaced the radiator in 6/04 had put too much water in the coolant which froze solid (I'm in Boston- brrrr!). According to mechanic #2 this subsequently damaged the 5th of my 6 cylinders. The radiator, thermostat and fan were replaced so that the car would run while I awaited a formal estimate for engine repair.
Upon calling the mechanic #1 back with further details of the damage, he agreed to replace the radiator as he had told me in a previous conversation but insisted that my car would be smoking excessively (which it's not) if there were cylinder damage and that the radiator issue would not cause cylinder damage. Mechanic #1 insisted that he was not responsible for the engine damage. I then had mechanic #2 call mechanic #1. According to mechanic #2, mechanic #1 was rude and insisted that he was not responsible. Mechanic #1 was gone when I tried to call him back.
In the interim, I don't feel safe driving my old car which is obviously not worth repairing and have located a used 2001 4Runner which I would like to purchase this weekend because it's a good deal.
Questions to you guys: Which mechanic is right? Could the frozen coolant/ radiator issue cause engine damage? How do I pursue this matter if mechanic #1 is indeed at fault? What measures do I need to take to prove this before getting rid of the old car?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I'm obviously stressed and tight on time given that I found exactly what I want in the "new" used 2001 4Runner.
Thanks and have a great weekend!
I suspect mechanic #1 is at fault for not testing the coolant concentration to begin with. But the area of fault for the damage to the #5 cylinder is a bit cloudy as you did drive the truck, knowing it was overheated and you should have stopped immediantly and had a service vehicle tow you. I don't follow some peoples ideas about basic service work such as proper coolant levels and strength because they paid someone else to do it and feel they do not have to check it themselves. If you are going to drive, you should know how to check your oil, coolant, transmission fluid and starting battery water levels. Proving a mechanic is negligent is difficult as you would have to prove you that no one else or you serviced the vehicle after mechanic #1 serviced it.
Thanks to your advice, I plan to have my oil, coolant, transmission fluid and starting battery water levels and a second compression test to confirm damage tomorrow. What specifically do I need to ask for? Can this be done at any gas station with a mechanic on site?
The only work that had been done on my car since then was an oil change and alternator replacement a few months ago but would this have any impact on the radiator? I know, but how do I prove it!?
Sadly as usual, hindsight is 20/20 because mechanic #1 had previously reimbursed me for the alternator which was deemed faulty by Toyota when they replaced it a few months ago. In addition to the 5/04 radiator, mechanic #2 had replaced the alternator in 6/04. Unfortunately, the problems didn't start until later and now seem to have snowballed.
I need to drive my old 4Runner 60 miles for trade in this week for the new 2001 4Runner. I'm psyched because its a beauty but it will only mean more financial debt. Please be specific about the above suggestions and any others which I should take to drive my old 4Runner. Details would be helpful given that I am a car ignoramus. Again, thanks a lot and wish me luck.
Have a great day!
You need to get some advise from someone who can inspect your vehicle and then you make a determination if you think you have legal recource.
Thanks
no vibration at lower speeds. also drivng lights won't come on switch lights up, is there a fuse and where, will check bulbs asap. mainly need help with the drive shaft issue.help
Thanks
How big of a job is this to fix?
Is this a Dealer only job?
Thanks in advance for any and all help on this.
It seems like this VSC error code can have several possible causes.
My Problem:
I had my valet key (grey) stolen from my 03 runner. I am looking for some advise as to next steps to take. I was told by dealer that I can have my master keys re-programmed to prevent valet key from starting car. However I believe that the valet key can still open the driver side door and trunk. Would I need to replace the lockset and thus have new keys mades?
As I can't get into the dealer for a few days..I was told that the valet key only allows truck to be driven for limited distance..is this true? As I have no garage I am a bit worried, and hate to have to sleep with one eye on the vehicle at night.
Any advise/experienced info on this would be greatly appreciated.
However, my tires are the originals, not substitutes. So far they have replaced the receiving computer and one of the tire-pressure sensors. I'm on my way back to the dealer tomorrow for the fourth time on this problem, with rapidly diminishing patience. Did your repair--i.e., replacement of receiving computer and all five tire-pressure sensors--continue to work? That stupid little flashing indicator light drives me nuts. Otherwise I love this vehicle.
Had the same problem before the best solution I did (i think ). Went to a locksmith and what they had done is they just reshaped all cylinder bolts (ignition,doors and trunks) and then they reshaped my existing keys to match. It's about a days work and it cost me $275. Forget about taking it to the dealer cause before I did the locksmith I asked around dealerships they want anywhere from $600 to $ 700.
I was paranoid at first cause their charge was cheap so I lied and told them I lost valet and other keys except the one in the car. I originally lost valet key but kept spare. After it was all done my spare key wouldn't work, so I went back two weeks later and told them I found it and they reshaped that same key to match my car. It's been 3 months now and not a single problem.
Hope this helps.
Does anyone know if all 2004 4-Runners have water repellent glass. How do I specific it, so my insurance company will replace it if it differs from the typical glass most glass shops use.
You input to this would be very beneificial. Thanks in advance.
Tangman
Wayne
Anyone else have this problem and how have you been able to resolve it?
Your help is appreciated.
Tomh12
I have searched this topic and several others including t4r.org and have not seen reference to this problem.
If my 4.7L V8 is unique with this problem, I will push hard for warranty coverage extension or repair. If this is a common problem, it may well be like the GM 6.0L and just be a nuisance, with no long term consequences for engine life.
Please, anyone with knowledge about this engine noise, give me some replys.
Thank you,
Tom
Good luck!
My concern is a noise that is LOUD and can best be described as sounding like deisel engine clatter, but seems to be confined to one cylinder, if that is the source. It is not evident when the vehicle is in park or neutral whether revved, or at idle. If you allow the engine to run for several minutes...long enough for the heater to become warm....it will not make the noise when put in gear.
I am open to the possibility that it could be tranny or transfer case related, as it only happens when you put the vehicle in gear, BUT it does not require movement of the vehicle and is in time with engine speed whether moving in forward or reverse, or sitting still. Once you start driving, the noise is loud while accelerating, then unnoticeable if coasting. The noise will stop completely within 1 mile of driving.
This started with the arrival of cool nights when the temperature would get down in the 40's. I probably had about 25,000 miles by then. Even now, with 39,000 miles, when I travel in the South and temperature over night stays warm, there is no noise.
Thanks again for your reply.
I would still like feedback from anyone who has this problem or has an idea of what may be causing it.
Tom