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Probably not a consolation, but I bought a V6 Pathfinder ten years ago that made cold-engine piston slap noise from day 1 - it went 60K before I sold it without any problems. So it's not typically a huge reliabilty concern. At the time, I thought it was normal cold engine noise, but an experienced mechanic later diagnosed it as classic piston slap.
BTW, I bought the vehicle new, but the dealer traded with another to get the color and options I wanted and when it showed up, it had nearly 300 miles on it. I was not happy but I did the deal anyway. So abuse during the break-in might have been the problem.
I now avoid buying cars with high demo miles and avoid having dealers find cars on other dealers' lots. I either want a zero-mile car fresh off the truck or one that is sitting on the lot locally so I can drive it myself and confirm how it runs.
- Mark
Thanks for the advice with the locksmith alteration(which I may be reproducing as well).
The dealer informed me that the transponder and master key codes could be reprogrammed, thus eliminating the use of the stolen valet key. So in theory even though the valet key will still engage the driver door and trunk cylinder, the doors will still remain locked due to mismatched code signal. So I had this done at a cost of $230.00 including new valet key. I'm still a little dubious about it to say the least..and may have the keys physically altered ultimately.
Cheers and thanks again
The noise does last for a couple of minutes. Pitch is hard to describe, but it's lower than a "tick" but not a "boom." Definitely metallic. Think of the sound an older diesel engine makes...."clattering"....only this sounds like only one cylinder, rather than multiple....Does this description make sense?
Does anyone know if these engines have aluminum pistons? If they do, and that is the cause of this noise, I would expect it to sound more like my 6.0L GM that clatters with all 8 pistons slapping when cold. This sounds just like that, but with a singular sound source, not multiple.
BTW, I agree with you on wanting a car fresh off the truck. All owners manuals say to avoid "full throttle acceleration" for the first 1,000 miles, but who test drives a vehicle without doing exactly that? I don't even want to buy a vehicle that I test drive! LOL
Thanks,
Tom
I just need to know if this is a common problem with this V8, or very unusual. If it's common, I am not too concerned about it....don't like it, but lived with a GM with the same problem with no apparent long term damage.
I would still appreciate hearing from others with the 4.7L V8 to see how common this is.
Thanks,
Tom
Cheers
Polartoy
I read this entire topic before posting my question and there was not one reference to this noise with regard to the V8. Therefore, I thought I might have an unusual situation that was cause for concern.
My experience with piston slap is that it is not as bad as it sounds. And, I agree with you that synthetic or dino makes no difference....seems to be totally temperature related.
I'll relax about what I'm dealing with, but it bothers me that my service department acted like they have never heard of the noise.
Tom
Word...if you get the X-REAS suspension, get the extended warranty. Your dealer and/or distributor may not be so customer focused.
I am looking to buy very soon. TOYOTA 4RUNNER, SR5, V6, PACIFIC BLUE, (2WD) RWD, NO MOONROOF, GREY CLOTH INT. I am not trading in a vehicle and live in orange county fl. I will be driving to pick up the vehicle once I find the one I want. If possible could you please include the OTD pricing for me That you may have payed. Thank you for your time and help.
Sincerely toygrl
I notice one thing with the brakes. There is a hissing sound like air that comes from the brakes when I depress the pedal. They seem to work fine but the noise is a little bothersome. Does anyone else have this with their vehicle. I wouldn't mind it so much if it is common.
tidester, host
The weather doesn't have to be cold, just the car shouldn't have been started in the last 8 hours. Once it starts I can turn it off and on at will fairly easily.
I just pulled out the battery and had it tested and it seems to be working fine. All that I hear is a "click" and then I try a couple of times with "click" and then the engine starts fine.
It seems to be getting worse, as it would just click maybe like once a month, but this week it seems that it is happening much more frequently.
I USE 5W30 IN WINTER AND 10W30 IN SUMMER. IS THIS OK FOR THE ENGINE? PLEASE ADVISE. my e-mail is richbf2@hotmail.com.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
Please keep the discussion here so everyone benefits. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board which is to share information, views and experiences.
tidester, host
Is there a way to determine if the head gasket is bad before a take it apart?? And what else could be a cause? I need you find out what else to check to point to the problem. Thanks for the help. I did have a check eng lt. code was 52 or 25.
I have a 96 toyota 4runner and i got it about 5 months ago. I had a problem with the car it would kinda of shake as i would acclerate but they said to replace the spark plugs and that fixed it. But now my car kinda of like shakes as i am about to go but not when i am driving doe s anyone know what that is i think maybe one of my spark plugs are lose but i am not sure??
I have seen the previous posts and ironically this seems to have happened to 2003, 2004 and mine is a 2005! One person said they owned a 2004 and went to dealer to install a new seat...well I'd be curious what happened since I have a late 2005 with the same problem still! I tended to doubt its the height adjustment..I owned a 2000 with height adjustment (appears to be the same design used) and it did not move at all.
Anyone actually have a dealer correct this or a self fix? Any suggestions appreciated.
Please help....
I cannot figure out how to turn the fog lights on? or is there any?seems like ther is a fog lamp installed..no switch is found.
your reply will save my trip to the dealer.
thanks,
Black 4runner
turn on when the low beam headlight is on,
or something to that extend.
I have a brand new 4runner and happens to me also. I guess the engine is powerful and kinda shakes when you crank it. Once started however, there are no problem.
DRL - daytime running lights. RTFM.
P.S. It only works in low-beam mode.
I have a problem with starting a 95 4 runner..
I changed the engine from a 1990 engine to a 1995 engine by taking everthing from the 95 engine to the 90 engine. Everything matched up except for the wire coming out from around the injectors. The wire coming from the 90 model had a single wire with a ground wire wrapped around it (like a coax). I cut the plug off of the 95 and plugged it into the 95 loom, then cut the plug off of the 90 and plugged it into the wire coming out of the manifold. Stripped the wire on the ends and wired the two together.
After doing all this the engine run excellent, except the engine light was on. I was trying to get the engine light to go off so I went back to those wires and switched some of them because I was thinking they were the ground wires and figuring that it was the cause of the engine light to stay on. After doing this the car still runs fine but the engine light is still on. So then I took the battery cables off and touched them together(advice from someone else to get the engine light to go off). I can now get the engine to start but will not stay running.
A mechanic suggested that it may be the security system. I am not sure wether this is a factory or add on system. He told me to lock the car up and come back later. I did this and went back to start it and it still is doing the same thing.
Is there a way to disable the security system to get it running again or could it be something else. I am stumped here....
PLEASE HELP ME..... WOULD APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE OR COMMENTS ON THIS PROBLEM
tidester, host
Thanks for any and all help anyone can assist me with...HAPPY EASTER ALL!
2. When I turn a sharp corner, the right side suspension crreeeaaakkkks a bunch, and it sounds like metal on metal, what is the cause?
Check to see if the both rails are facing forward. You should see an arrow stamped on it where it slides on the track. Sometimes these are installed incorrectly. Afterwards, adjust both rails to a location just past the paint mark. This is the proper location when you are not carrying luggage. Your owners manual should have instructions on this. Now for the vent shields; if these are the add ons one sees in the autoparts stores to keep rain out, then yes, these can and do make wind noise.
save me the trip to So Coast TYT.
boxtype
Myself, I feel the road noise is obtrusively loud. 1mm thicker glass would have fixed most of the noise.