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Comments
There is a weird stutter in power around 2000rpm, I replaced my fuel filter, and I got an o2 sensor, but I can't find it on the truck. My book doesn't help much there.
I also have a crazy creaking sound when I turn to the left really sharp(quickly or bumpy road).
I have already done some minor thing's with my truck just by looking at this message board you have all been very helpful. This is one of he best references I've been able to find.
You mentioned a recall, would you let me know if Toyota has issued a global recall on all their 2003 4Runner’s with air suspensions.
I also had the vehicle in for a wobbling sound, the problem was a drive shaft that was installed backwards on the assemble line. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
tidester, host
I have a 1999 4runner with the same problem... Probably happens only when it's cold, right?? I am told it may be an issue with a thrust bearing connected to the crankshaft... Mine started at 45K miles, and it's gettign worse.
I am trying to research the problem and take action, I am really unhappy about this situation. Please supply me with your e-mail and we can chat further.
Thanks,
-Todd
Thanks,
shanren
S
Have you made any progress? My dealer changed the serpentine belt (of all stupid things) with no change in the noise.
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
Please respond.
My mechanic, as well as other mechanic I know, said that I could still drive the car, but as soon as I noticed performance issues or a drop in gas mileage, I need to have the cat replaced.
I noticed about 10 days ago that I started having hesitation issues at traffic lights and stop signs. I did not have any problems after getting started. I brought the car in last week to have the cat replaced ($800 for the part alone, the rear cat is $1,100). Anyway, after having the cat replaced, the hesitation became worse. The mechanic will not give me the car back until he finds out what is wrong because he said I will damage the new cat. He has checked the vacuum lines and cleaned the sensors. The check engine light does not come on anymore and the computer indicates that there is no problem.
I remember working on my 1994 Cherokee where I needed to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, and even still, had performance issues for a couple hundred miles until the computer re-learned everything. Then everything was fine.
Any ideas before I have it towed to a dealer.
Thanks
Shep
Steve, Host
Thank you,
Jim
hyperco spring co. might have the solution for me but needs the spring specs (i.e. rate, freelink, inside and/or outside diameter). is there anyone who could tell me the specs on these springs? -- the OEM,stock,factory springs.
this is just for the rear, and any help would be greatly appreciated.
if i got lucky enough to have someone who got tired of this with your 4runner and solved the problem a different way, let me know, i am open to all options.
this is my wife's car, she couldn't care less, but i am a car nut and it's been driving me crazy for years - i drive it on the 'family trips' . now i am changing the rear shocks (for the ride quality) and figure do the ride height change while i am under there ... that's if i find some solution that doesn't make my truck look jacked-up like the torino in Starsky & Hutch. :shades:
I have not driven the vehicle as I was concerned.
First the switch next to the steering with the X in the middle whats that for?...
Secondly..everytime like i go up some thing a curb or on a hill...the car first makes this KRRRRR sound like some metal grinding together...seems like its comming from the area where the race and brake pedals are??? any idea?
Thirdle i backed up down an incline and the damn muffler fell of its clip...went to the toyota dealer...YOU wont beleive what the guy said..Firstly he said...that you should off road in that its more like a 4 wheel drive grocery getter...then he says if some one rests their foot on this it would fall off the clip...so bring it in on monday..
Basically im posting to say be carefull with inclines..and please please tell me what the switch is...and what the metal clunking is ???
Thanks
Second -- that sounds like the traction control, spin control, or ABS engaging.
Third -- did you hit the muffler or exhaust pipe on the ground while backing down?
I am sure this has been asked and answered hundreds of times, but what is an open differential and what is a closed differential (limited slip/positrac). I understand the basic operation of the differential/CV joint allowing different rates of speed in turns. It is always described as a distribution of power when one or other wheel slips.
In a non limited slip diff - what happens when one wheel is on soft sand?
In a limited slip diff - what happens when one wheel is on sand?
In a 4Runner with an X switch - what happens when one wheel is on sand?
So I get a message from the host saying,"patience". "ok". Maybe I didn't write my message clearly or... I don't know. I hope you all have better luck here on this message board than I. Thank you for putting this message board together. Have a great life with your toyota everyone! I don't intend to return :lemon:
My runner starts fine 9 out of 10 times...occasionally when I start it, it sputters out and stalls...like the idol speed is too low. Once it happens, it takes up to 10 tries to get it to finally stay running. I just bought a new battery and had the alternator checked, that is not the problem. A mechanic said that ofter times with 4runners the idol motor parts need to be changed costing $400 plus.
Anyone ever heard of this? Advice greatly appreciated.
I don't suppose there is any way to 'buff' out a scratch in the clear plastic covering of the mileage/clock display is there?
This weekend I noticed a small scratch in it, and thinking that it was some sort of foreign material, tried to scratch it off. Unfortunately I did this while driving over a bumpy country road and long story short: ended up putting even more scratches in it.
Assuming there is no way to get rid of these scratches, I wouldn't think replacing the plastic covering from the dealer would be a big deal, would it?
On a related note, I put a few scratches in the inside passenger door plastic, above the speaker grill. Any way to get those out either?
I'm afraid not and have just told my wife that it makes the 4Runner look 'tough'. But any answers would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jay
I have a 2000 4Runner Limited and while my clock has been working intermittently the last few months it finally went completely dead. I am assuming it is not an electrical/wiring problem. Can anyone suggest a good place to purchase Toyota parts? I would rather not go to the dealer....Thanks!
I want to remove that useless cargo shelf, so I can put in a cargo liner.
Does anyone know how to remove the shelf?
Thanks
I have a 1994 4-runner that will not start when it is warm. It runs great and has a lot of life left in this engine! It gets spark at each plug. Each cylinder has good compression. I have had the fuel injectors tested...each one has juice. The 02 sensors have been replaced a while back. I also changed the rotor and rotor cap when it first did not start. It seemed to work for a while but then would not start when hot.
A trusted shop did diagnostics to no avail. We also checked many wires and such for good ground. This is really a mystery. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
My real question would be why any decent shop would be stumped by this - does it do it every time the truck is hot? If so, a simple check with a voltmeter should be able to find the problem, because it is easy to repeat.
cadam: the same thing is likely true for you, if what you mean is it just won't run at all, once it is warm and you try to start it. I am assuming both you and wolflover DO hear the starter cranking when this happens.
lazzarich: "In a non limited slip diff - what happens when one wheel is on soft sand?
In a limited slip diff - what happens when one wheel is on sand?
In a 4Runner with an X switch - what happens when one wheel is on sand?"
In a situation where one wheel can spin freely (no traction at all), that is exactly what it will do if the diff in the center is open. If it is a limited slip, then the diff will send some small portion of the power to the non-slipping wheel, to give you a little traction on that axle. With a locking diff, you can manually force it to send 50% of the power to each end of the axle. Obviously you don't want it to leave it locked once good traction surfaces resume, or you will begin to drag one tire every time you turn even slightly, and on surfaces with veru good traction you will also damage the hardware this way.
countchocula: the creaky crunchy sounds your truck makes when you turn hard left is most likely because the zerk stops are broken - they are essentially the hard stop the steering hits when it is cranked all the way over. If the caps are broken, they make terrible noises when you crank it all the way over. The solution is...DON'T crank it all the way over. They are not doing any other damage and are a hassle to replace.
This explains the steering stops biz:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/lube/
As for the O2 sensor - is your engine the 22RE? If so, it should be in plain sight on the exhaust (driver's side of the engine bay).
samstylee: I have never heard of such a thing as an idle motor - I need some enlightenment there. Some older 4Runners get sticky throttles, which causes a flaky idle occasionally when you start it warm. Is that what you are describing? If so, try this: next time it does it, hold the gas pedal halfway down and crank it until it starts. It should start on the first try, although it will crank for a few seconds first. If it is that, try cleaning the throttle body.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Good luck at school
If it is a stained driveway, it is probably the radiator (common to leak after this many years), or it might be a hose. If it is a drip-drip-drip, it is definitely a hose, and pressure testing the system will cause whichever hose it is to blow amd you can replace it. Again, at this age, any of the heater hoses are prime suspects, as are loose and/or rusty clamps.
You can tell if the radiator is leaking, again because it will be stained where the coolant is coming out. The most common places for it to leak are the seams, but by no means the only possible places.
Oh yeah, and check the overflow reservoir as mentioned above too. They tend to get old and leak (they are just plastic after all), as does the little hose that connects it to the radiator.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)