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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair

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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I forget where the fuel pump relay is on this thing, but if it is under the hood, it is a good bet to be the source of the problem. Check it out, and if it is under the hood it is cheap to replace - give it a shot.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    jeff193jeff193 Member Posts: 29
    I am begining to get reallly sad i bought the V8. the 60$ tank fulls...and I have no idea why but i am only getting 13.5mpg at best on the tankfuls. Mostly city driving. but im not flooring it and im not stopped at traffic lights for 20 minutes.

    Any help please
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    scott76scott76 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 05 SR5, I thought mine had similar scratches in the temp/clock display, turns out my Dealer left a very hard to see plastic protective film on the cover after delivery. Before you go out and buy a new cover, double check in the corner that the protective film isn't still attached, most likely your scratches will just be on that.
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    this is the dilemma of everyone out there with a large SUV right now, not just 4Runner owners but Suburban and Tahoe owners, Expedition too. Not to mention Sequoia owners!

    At 13.5 you are within 10% of the city rating on this thing, so it is in the range, it is just that the range is low. Did you get the V-8 because you tow?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    rvalc43594rvalc43594 Member Posts: 31
    Are any of you guys afraid of the gas mileage the v8 gives you? With the price of gas especially in the northeast frequent trip to the the gas station is starting to make me crazy. I have a 03 v6 limited my gas mileage sucks and when i see the prices of gas rising like that i think all of you with v8's are rich or making the oil company rich. :cry:
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    V-6 4Runner is down to about 17 mpg in everyday driving due to the oversize tires I put on it, and I tell you, I am hardly driving it now with the gas prices so high. I am lucky to have a little car for the everyday stuff that gets better than 30 mpg. Tahoe is about three hours each way on the highway for me, and just that little weekend trip can cost me close to $100 in gas now!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    snodivasnodiva Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 4runner ltd and I have had an ammonia smell that comes from the vent. It happens when I accelerate from a stop or quickly accelerate. I do not have the AC on but it happens then too. I've taken to the dealer which have said and fixed the blower motor per TSB AC003-03/ice build up on blower motor. Still the ammonia smell. Is this the same as the coolant leak or something else?
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    nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    I think you'll find that the mileage with the V6 is only 1 or 2 mpg greater than the V8. I'm getting about 17.5 mpg on my suburban/highway commute. I get noticeably better mileage if it's all highway.

    Yes, I wish I got better mileage. But an extra $1,000 per year won't kill me and my old GTI wouldn't get very far up the beach at Cape Pogue ;)
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    jeff193jeff193 Member Posts: 29
    I just got the V8 cus its more powerful...feeels quicker too..plus the dealer had only 2 a black sr5 v6 or a white v8 sport. The payment was only 20$ more so i got the v8. i had no idea the every day gas mileage would suck sooooo bad.! if i got my battery unplugged and re plugged...would it make a diff? i heard about the adaptive throttle?
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    nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    Folks, the gas cost difference between the V8 and V6 is trivial. Let's run the numbers.

    Let's assume the following:

    - you drive 15,000 miles per year
    - V8 gets 17 mpg
    - V6 gets 19 mpg.

    That gives you 882 gallons per year for the V8 (15000 / 17) and 789 gallons for the V6, or a difference of 93 gallons per year. Assuming a cost of $2.50 per gallon, the gas for the V8 will cost $2206 per year. Gas for the V6 will cost $1974 per year. That's a difference of $232 per year or about $4 per week.

    $4 a week? That's what people are hyperventilating about? I don't get it.
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    now do your analysis for poor Jeff. At 13.5 mpg he is using 1111 gallons per year in your scenario, or a difference of 322. At $2.50/gallon, that is an annual difference of $805, or about $15.50 per week, more than $60 a month. Put another way, it is easily enough to replace a whole set of tires on the 4Runner each and every year.

    Jeff, the adaptive throttle is merely designed to match your driving style - it shouldn't use more or less gas. Gas consumption is dependent on your driving habits (city, highway, stop and go) and style (jackrabbit starts vs "smoothing it out") mostly.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    The only things that will increase your mileage are the old advice:

    - accelerate slowly, no jackrabbit starts
    - drive slower on the highway (65 not 75)
    - make sure your tires are property inflated.
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    dpalaudpalau Member Posts: 20
    scott76, you are absolutely right! Thanks for the save. There was a plastic film over the display that had the scratches in it.

    You know, I always thought the display looked kind of cheap compared to the other controls for some reason, know I know why.
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    scott76scott76 Member Posts: 4
    Glad I could help....

    And my wife thinks nothing good comes of my 4Runner obsession.
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    surffishingsurffishing Member Posts: 5
    Anyone know where to purchase some aftermarket fender flares for a 95 with running boards. Nothing to big just enough to know they are there. ;)
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    theomdtheomd Member Posts: 11
    Have a '05 4runner Ltd. just purchased now with 1300 mi on it. Quick question ?? When I depress the brake I get a frequent light pulsing feeling - like a rubber band being plucked. Happens frequently with stopping. This is not the ABS as I am just making normal stops, but this occurs. Anyone else experience this or should I head back to the dealer. Car stops/tracks normally. Thanks
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    wolflover55wolflover55 Member Posts: 3
    I had teh fuel injectors cleaned and a new fuel filter was part of that. I am sure the fuel is pumping. Not only did the shop make usr eof this I can tell when it does not start that some "flooding" occurs or at least I smell fuel. I believe this is electrical in nature or possibly air. Any relays or wires that I can check out? I did remove and clean the contacts on all the relays in teh fuse box. Also checked various ground wires from the engine to the firewall & sidewall. Help! Thanks!
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    there are no emissions codes on the computer, right? It is possible it is an MAF sensor problem, a common part to fail on most cars.

    I hate this kind of problem: hard to duplicate and then hard to diagnose even when it IS doing it. My sympathies. :-/

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    I have a 2004, SR5, V8, and the brakes make the same noise. The explanation that I received, from another individual in this forum that sounded like he (or she) knew a lot more about cars that I do, was that the 4Runner uses a hydrolic brake system. Every few times you depress the brake pedal, the system needs to recharge itself and there is a pump that is activated....that is what I think you feel. It should happen every 4 or 5 times you hit the brakes....it should be a little vibration and you should hear the pump activate....it goes on for 2 seconds or so....then stops. If this sounds like your problem, I would not worry about it!! I've had mine for over a year now, it has done it since new, and I've never had a problem. Good luck! Hope this helps.
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    celcel Member Posts: 1
    Jeff.... I have a 2005 LTD V8 which I purchased in March of this year. I've been getting a solid 18 mpg since I bought it. I also drive pretty hard. Something must be wrong to be getting that poor of mileage. I can only suggest taking it back to the dealer and tell them to fix it. I know 18 isn't great with 2.30 @ gal gas but it sure beats 13.5..... Good luck with the dealer...
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    theomdtheomd Member Posts: 11
    Neumie:

    That is it exactly. Just a bit disconcerting as in my 40yrs never had any car produce this feeling when stopping.
    Thanks
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    tony082050tony082050 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 4runner. I would like to remove the starter relay, but I am having difficulties pulling it out. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can remove the starter relay. Also, if you disconnect the battery, what will be the effect on the computer system of the car and the radio with an auto-theft protection?
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    mojaymojay Member Posts: 8
    That doesn't take into consideration that my '03 V8 Ltd takes Regular gas not Premium. At $.20 a gallon differnce(the $232 difference - $157.80 = $74.20/yr. Now we are looking at $1.42 a week. I am no economist but this sure makes the choice look easy. That is not to mention that the V8 (on th '03-'04)has been in production since '99 and has an excellent track record.
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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    I still got power brakes, but my ABS, traction control, and skid control are out of order. Dealer said a $1500 ECU for the skid control bit the dust. Dealer will call their tech support in the a.m. looking for a cheaper fix...if none they'll order a replacement ECU. I have only 14,000+ miles on a 2003 model owned since 8/2003. Hope y'all got an extended warranty. Second major failure for me. The radio, CD, cassette unit died and was replaced at 1000 miles. I got an Avalon for a rental. I'll post the good and bad on the Avalon in it's forum.

    I don't know if I'll keep this vehicle past the day the extended warranty expires. To date, it's seen the service department 4 times for things other than normal maintenance. My last vehicle, a Chevy, never saw the dealer for a repair til 33,000 miles. Oh well.
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    neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    Agreed. But I guess the response is that this hydrolic break system is rare...so my guess is that neither you nor I have ever driven a vehicle with such a break system. Enjoy your new 4Runner!
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    chunky930chunky930 Member Posts: 1
    If it's a 2004 model, I went through the same thing. I went to the dealer I bought it from 4 times and they blamed it on gas. Turns out it was a bad catalytic converter (sp?). Tell the service dpt that there is a "sulferic" odor. I swear if you use any other word, they don't understand. good luck
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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    A followup for anyone who cares.

    My dealers tech support said the oil pressure switch is suspect, although the diagnostic code pointed to the ECU. Hard to believe an oil pressure switch is causing the ABS and VSC systems to fail. I'm waiting to hear there's a nut loose behind the wheel. Part won't arrive for 2 more days. I'd be amazed if this is the fix.
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    kingcomedickingcomedic Member Posts: 2
    This might have an amazingly simple solution, but I am not afraid to ask the potentially dumb question. I bought a 2000 4Runner Limited yesterday. Tonight, when I left the vehicle in the parking lot, I attempted to use the wireless device to lock the doors/set the alarm and nothing happened. The unlock, rear window controls, and panic buttons all work (as the vehicle responded appropriately to each). I opened the door and tried to push the power lock button, nothing would happen when I pushed it to lock (no movement, not even a sound). But if I were to push it to unlock, normal noise and partial movement of already unlocked doors. I went over to the passenger side and tried the same thing, with the same result. The power door locks will not lock and I can't do it with the keyless device so that just leaves manually. I am worried though that the back tailgate though is not locking period since I can't get the "lock" to work. I tried starting the vehicle then shutting it down again to see if it might "reset", but to no avail. It is still not working.

    I checked all the fuses and everything seemed in working order. Any ideas before I head back to the dealership? It is under the Certified Toyota Warranty still, but of course, it does not cover things like this. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated thanks...

    -Tod
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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Review the owners manual if you have one. It may have the answer you seek. I have a 2003, and my manual is in the shop with the vehicle, and I don't know if the programming, if any, would be the same.
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    neumie2000neumie2000 Member Posts: 133
    This may be stupid....but I had a similar situation with a power door lock on my previous vehicle, a Ford Explorer. The remote door lock would not work....I could unlock but could not lock....turned out one of door panel lock buttons had gotten stuck in "locking" position, meaning the doors were sort of always trying to lock themselves....I got the switch unstuck, and everything went back to normal. Just something else to check!!
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    kingcomedickingcomedic Member Posts: 2
    I get the feeling this is a super easy problem. I looked through the owner's manual and the one thing it does say is that doors will not lock if either front door is open and the key is in the ignition. I checked to make sure the "buttons" that the doors depress when they are closed are indeed travelling and everything seems to work. There must be a sensor out of something to that effect... However, wherever all these signals and such travel too (the brain perhaps?), it is not disconnected at that point? Who knows... I guess this entails a trip to Toyota.

    Thanks...

    -Tod
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    drex1drex1 Member Posts: 41
    Tony082050,
    I suggest looking back at message #777 for some starter information. As far as disconnecting the battery, all you end up losing is your presents on the radio and you have to reset your clock. Past that, no problems. Also, no problem with auto-theft protection.
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    willie4willie4 Member Posts: 2
    My '98 4Runner has about 102K miles on it and is just starting to lose its pep. Also I'm hearing some diesling when I accelerate. When I try to go uphill the engine sounds like a go-kart (high pitched and it is really struggling). It eventually gets up to speed but not without a struggle. :sick: Admittingly, I need new spark plugs which I hope to do this weekend. Do you think this will fix the problem or am I looking at something more serious? Any guidance you good folks can provide would be greatly appreciated.
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    canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    If you can afford it, just take it in. Tell them your symptoms and let them do the rest. The diagnostics may recommend something other than a tuneup. If you do need a tuneup, then expect to spend a good chunk of change for spark plugs, maybe wires, cap & rotor if yours has them, definitely an air filter, and maybe a fuel filter, or do it yourself. The parts are expensive enuf, and dealer labor runs $95 hourly in my area. Dealer would probably insist on an oil change, tranny fluid and filter (where applicable) change, and new transfer case and rearend fluids.

    On the other hand, take a look under the hood & see if it looks like something you want to burn half a day or more on, provided you got the right tools, especially for the plugs. I’d pay someone to do the fuel filter if there is one to do. Myself, I no longer work on my current vehicles as they’re getting too complicated. Be careful of foot pounds and foot inches if you torque anything. You'll save yourself big $$$ obviously. Also consult your owners manual for recommended maintenance. If you still got problems, then take it to the dealer or a shop specializing in Toy's. Good luck.
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    willie4willie4 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Canddmeyer. It didn't take me but about 10 minutes under the hood to determine your advise was right on target. I'm taking it in to the pros. Like you said, the newer ones are just too complicated.
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    charlie4runnercharlie4runner Member Posts: 22
    I have a 2004 4runner with the same brake pulse. Had it in at the dealer, and was told that they have no other reported brake problems or recalls from Toyota Mfg. They will keep me informed. I tried the dealers 4runner and the brake pulsed a little, not as much as mine.

    The technician said it was normal. I'm still unsatisfy with the answer. There is something fishy with the brake system. I just can't figure it out.

    I find also that in stop and go traffic, sometimes when I release the brakes, I'll get a clunk as if the calipers are letting off too quick. It almost feels as if I've been rear ended by another car.

    I'm wordering if anyone else out there have notice this.

    In any case, the fact that other have my problem indicates I'm not special. That is a good thing I think?
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    polartoypolartoy Member Posts: 18
    Charlie4runner: Your problem in traffic is not the brake, but the driveline binding up at the slip yoke. I have had 3 4runners so far, the latest 05, and they all do it. Feels like rear ended by someone. The driveline has to be lubricated continuously and toyota is supposed to do this at every oil change ( they told me they do it even if not asked). Poor design of drive shafts and not likely to change. Once lubed properly, it may not occur for thousands of kms. Sometimes they dont do it properly, and once I was back there the next day to have it relubed again. This will solve your problem.
    Never had any pulsing of the brakes, in fact, they are the best of any truck I have ever had. Got 80,000 km on 2003 4runner same pad and rotors and no vibrations.
    The only big vibration problem I encountered was the Dunlop tires, pure junk. Usually out of round and you can feel this on highway speeds above 80 km or so. In fact on the ten tires with my two -2003 4 runners, I think 5 were out and could not be balanced. On my new 2005, I made sure it had the Michelins, and boy, what a difference! Vehicle is eerily silent up to 160 km/ hr so far.
    Polartoy
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    rvalc43594rvalc43594 Member Posts: 31
    The pulsing of the brake they are referring to is the brake booster buzzing. It's an annoying sound for it gets louder in the winter when it's cold and hums in the summer when it's hot. Toyota claims they made this system that way because the 4runner is a heavy truck. Also claim it's part of this new system the EBD (electronic brake distribution) The booster on the 05 model is made out aluminum as a pose to the metal one in 03-04 model. You can see this right away when you lift up the hood and look at the left on the braking resurvior. :confuse:
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    drehawaiidrehawaii Member Posts: 1
    do dealers do recall work for owners other than original owner (bought it used)
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    nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    yes.
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    hartsharts Member Posts: 2
    If you have a 2005 4Runner, please let me know if the words PASSENGER and AIRBAG are both illuminated in orange when you turn on your park and/or headlights. Right now, when I start my vehicle and turn on my park lights or headlights, only the word AIRBAG will illuminated in orange. However, I thought when I first purchased the car that the both words PASSENGER and AIRBAG illuminated in orange. The OFF and ON lights for the PASSENGER AIRBAG are working fine. Just need to know if the word PASSENGER should be illuminated in orange when lights are on.

    Tried contacting several dealers and got varying answers. Please help!!

    THANKS!!!
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    juliennbjuliennb Member Posts: 1
    Okay what do I try next?

    If my 4Runner sits for about 24 hours or longer then I have this problem. If I am running errands I don't have this problem.

    I start the engine. It starts fine. Even while not in gear I can tell when the engine is running rough. When I start driving it is a rough ride. But after about 1/10 mile it stops and runs just fine.

    I've just had all the wires and plugs replaced. The mechanics tested the fuel injectors and they are all working in spec. The mechanic even replaced one that was close to being out of spec, but the problem is still occurring.

    What are other things I should have the mechanic check? (I am clueless when it comes to vehicles - and I'm beginning to think my mechanic is too!)

    Thanks,
    Julie
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    alfred5alfred5 Member Posts: 2
    My '95 4x4 V-6 man. trans. 4Runner with 110,000 miles does this while braking:
    RPMS go from 1000 to 250 when I start braking, then jump right back to 1000 again when fully stopped. During these few seconds the power brakes and air conditioner malfunction
    and I've smashed a bumper or two because of this malfunction.
    Mechanics tried everything (so they say) but no one has been able to pinpoint
    the problem. I'm guessing it might be the knock sensor. Anyone has some ideas?
    HELP!!!!!!!! :cry::cry::cry::cry:
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    nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    you mean you clutch out and when the engine revs drop it almost stalls? It's some kind of sensor, probably, you are right. That is going to be a hard one to pinpoint, I am sorry. Turning the idle up a bit would be an easy but temporary fix.

    juliennb: you mean it hesitates like crazy for a second then gets going strong? I would check the condition of the "snorkel" feeding air to the FI. If it is cracked (a common problem), then when you take off and the body flexes, it allows the intake to flood with air which causes the computer to go crazy trying to compensate, and you get all kinds of driveability problems. Once you are moving along in a steady state, the crack closes and it returns to running normally. Check that the large rubber piece feeding air to the FI has no leaks and is making a snug tight connection. Those things crack all the time.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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    4rfan4rfan Member Posts: 1
    YES, my brake pedal makes the same sound and I asked a NON-dealer mechanic, who specializing in Toyotas and is great, to test-drive the car before I did the final paperwork, he drove it around the block and on the highway, said it was fine and great and about the "hissing" brake pedal said, Yeah, some cars make that sound and some don't, he said :) , "after a while you won't hear it." Most of the time I forget about it but it is annoying at these prices!!! I try to think of it as a sign of "tightness" and general excellence of the car (which I find is true!) but these posts can be unsettling!!! :)
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    tobertober Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    This is my very first post, so bear with me...Ok, we have an sr5 (2003, automatic v8) and while it has alot of fine features, you do know that the "warning (buzzer) for headlights left on" was omitted in design. We do not have the delayed automatic shut-off -- so the potential dead-battery for any absent-minded driver/operator goof is there. Well, when Toyota did their customer survey, we cited this; i see that others (car analysts) reflected on this in the initial release....we didn't notice this until later in the ownership cycle...just expected this sort of basic feature it would be there....
    BUT, but what to do...are there any work-arounds, mods that are worthwhile (eg, w/o "unintended consequences" worse that this annoyance). Thanks in advance for any help, insight, etc.

    Thanks
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    91n01furrunna91n01furrunna Member Posts: 5
    2001 SR5. 90,000 miles. Had Check Engine Light, VSC Off Lights come on. In the owners manual the only info I could find said vehicle was still safe to drive and take it to a Toyota dealer. Read several posts on here, where Toyota changed computers, and various other fixes. One person said they disconnected negative battery terminal and lights went away. I did the same, diconnected negative negative battery terminal and lights went away and truck runs fine. Mechanic friend of mine asked if I had topped off gas tank, and I had that day the lights came on. Not a good thing to top off fuel tank. Something to keep in mind if your lights come on.
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    charlie4runnercharlie4runner Member Posts: 22
    Is the 05 Aluminum any quieter? I still think Toyota should do something about it. I read way back about 8 months ago, someone had the same problem and brought it back to the dealer. And the Dealer changed out his master cylinder or something like that. (or brake booster). Who knows.

    My dealer told me to get off the Internet and spend my time doing better things. The buzzing does bug me. I don't care how heavy the car is. There are alot heavier things on the road than my 4runner.

    In any case thanks for the info. I think everyone is in agreement it is this hi-tech Brake Booster System. I still prefer the lo-tech design that I have in my Highlander.
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    charlie4runnercharlie4runner Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the info Polartoy. Glad to see other Canadians here. I'm due for an oil change next week. I will definetly mention it to them.

    If this works, I'll have to tell the dealer I got the info off the Internet. The dealer thinks these chat pages are people looking for imaginary problems to [non-permissible content removed] about.

    That's odd some people have the buzz and others don't. It is noticeable. I'm wondering if there is something that can be adjusted. I'm actually hoping the brake system falls apart, so I can say "I told you so". I better not think this, my brake might actually give out.

    As far as tires, I think I lucked out. The dealer was surprise to see Michilens on my 04 when I picked it up. I couldn't figure why. I've always had good luck with Michlens on any vehicle.

    What is your thoughts of Winter Tires for a 4Runner. Are all seasons aggressive enough.
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    alfred5alfred5 Member Posts: 2
    your absolutely right, my friend. It is when I clutch out and yes, I turned the idle up
    to 1200 so it only goes down to 700 for a few secs. and this keeps the brakes working. I already scanned it and no code showed up. Please let me know if you find something out before I go ahead and buy that new knock sensor by pure guessing. Thank you. Alfed5 :sick:

    TO: juliennb:
    Yeah buddy, the "snorkel" was a bit cracked and I replaced it for a new one (88 bucks). It didn't solve the problem. I appreciate very much your good intent to help me. I'm open for more suggestions before investing again on my guessing. Please help.
    Alfed5 : :sick:
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