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I had a similar issue and the dealership diagnosed as an "Intake Manifold Tuning Valve". After that was fixed, I've had to replace a couple of the cylinder coils. Both the tuning valve and the coils create similar "hesitation" type symptoms.
Hopefully it's a coils as they are $20 - $50 for a new one vs. $650 - $800 to replace the tuning valve.
I can't remember if the coil threw a check engine light or not but did go to a AutoZone and they plugged a device in that pulled the code, which contained the cylinder coil number (1 - 8) that was going bad - which helped a lot.
David
ill try it
thanks
I ended up purchasing a Pioneer AVIC system - which was the best investment I ever made. I purchased from Crutchfield (and paid the premium) but got all of the factory / finished look pieces, correct cables, and great support, etc.
The AVIC system (now 4 years old) has a great nav system, touch screen, bluetooth add on, xm radio add on, and can play DVDs. The new AVIC systems are even better from what I've seen.
Hope this helps.
My headlights are in the off position. they do turn off when I turn the headlights on, but then the headlights stay on, so that doesn't help.
Any ideas?
Had many coils replaced as well.
How should I troubleshoot this? I.E. Start with the front switch, clean, move to door.. or vice-versa, or some other method.
Any thoughts, diagrams would be much appreciated.
David
John
and they had no ideas ? Is this same problem, coil or Head or ?
Also my glass tailgate will not close it almost like u have to slam shut. I purchased the extended warranty but it doesn't cover the tailgate or suspension if that's the problem. Any suggestions?????
After my check engine light came on Mon, 4/2, I went to Auto Zone for help with the diagnosis code. It showed P0308 and P0316 (was told that 316 always goes w/308.) I took it to a local, reputable auto service repair center that had serviced my car for a CLY #3 misfire Oct, 2011. At that time they replaced one ignition coil and replaced all the spark plugs. Their recommendation was to replace the the remaining coils, which I did. They also replaced all the spark plugs since they were under warranty.
BUT, THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. I realize the coils were probably going to have to replaced eventually, so I'm okay with doing that. They suggest having an Injector Service Wash/Flush before making the decision to replace the injector (which I'm assuming is #8.) They don't have the equipment for this type of service and I'm probably going to have to do it at the dealership. After researching this service I understand it could be beneficial. (Also, let me state a mechanic friend of mine suggested Goo- something. We put it in the gas tank with about a 1/4 tank and I drove the highway for 45 miles, but no change.)
MY QUESTIONS:
1) Do I go to the expense of the Injector wash/flush of $145 (which means I have to go to the dealership which I really don't want to do!) or should I skip the step and go ahead and have the injector replaced? Should I replace them all while they're in there?
2) If I go to a dealer, any recommendations in the Dallas area? preferably closer to downtown.
My car is in great shape and I'd like to keep it for another year or so if possible. Thanks much everyone!
I rewarded Ford by walking from the brand after 5 Fords in a row and now am a happy (if not bored) owner of my second Lexus which by the way I thought and now can emphatically state is the least expensive car to own on the road. They have such a high resale value (unlike Lincoln Mercury) that my trade in allowed me to buy a new Lexus for only 10K after 3 years).
I loved by Aviator even with all the problems. My Lexus is boring but it is totally reliable. I do 20K miles per year!
Park Cities Ford in Dallas, TX, found "compression loss on bank 2, cylinder 8 has 11% loss." They did not recommend the engine rebuild with the high mileage I have.
Sounds like I'm in the market for a new car. What kind of Lexus do you own? I was thinking about a Toyota Four Runner, too.
Thanks you again!
Before I venture out into the auto sales world, I thought I'd double and triple check that I've checked out every possible solution. Before a major surgery a second opinion should always be sought. So, you all are my second opinion...
Below is the dealership's diagnosis on my 2004 Aviator with 116,200 miles. It has new coils, plugs, and had a fuel system flush.
"Customer states check engine light is on
Cylinder 8 losing compression.
Verify concern. Time for EEC Diagnosis
PERFORM KOEO/KOER SELF TEST AND FOUND DTC PO0308 AND P0316.
Time to perform power balance and verify misfire. TIME TO PERFORM RELATIVE
COMPRESSION TEST AND FOUND COMPRESSION LOSS ON BANK 2,
CYLINDER 8 HAS 11% LOSS, CUSTOMER DECLINED REPAIR."
He said the computerized compression test tests the injectors, spark plugs, and coils. Then they did a manual compression test to confirm the cylinder 8 compression loss.
Thoughts?
Did you have any luck finding out what your problem was, my 2004 is doing the very same thing. Ford Dealer is clueless
The Aviator seems to take a real whipping on this site and I have no doubt that most of it is deserved. My Aviator now has 171K miles on it and I drive it everyday. I've had the usuall minor issues that come with every vehicle, but have not had one problem that even approaches the things I see on this site. I guess all Aviators are not made equally.
1) What's a "boot?"
2) Did you see my most recent post regarding 11% loss on Cylinder 8?
Would like your feedback. Thanks
I was able to get Ford to pay 2/3rd the cost of the engine rebuild. It was 2K out of warranty. They should have picked up 100% of the engine rebuild because this is a known problem with the engine.
I will not own another Ford/Lincoln Mercury product again because of the way they treated me.
File a claim with the NHTSB.
Replying to: uvsrw3 (Apr 26, 2008 11:20 am)
The problem you are having is that cylinders 7 and 8 are fouled and you need an engine rebuild. The head/valve cover on this V8 comes in two pieces. It fouls around 50k miles and needs to be rebuilt. Ford should recall the engine and fix it gratis. There is a TSB on it. Ask a Lincoln Mercury Dealer and they know the TSB. All engines of this type, Ford puts in Ford Mustang, Navigator and Maruader fail. Mine failed at 52k miles and they covered part of it but not all of it. My 6th and last Ford btw. The dealer will quote $5500 if beyond warranty. They will pick up part of the tab if you push. Time for a class action??
Yes, it's a known problem and I would like to see Ford step up with an extended warranty since it's an engineering flaw. But from a business standpoint I understand their position.
Gabe
Got any solutions??
The brake light switch on the brake pivot pivot when depressed sends 12v to a cheapo solenoid that pulls a piece of lamp chain on the drivers side of shifter connected to a plastic cam that then gets out of the way of car shifting out of park. All you do is pull the little plastic access panel as described in the owners manual off and you can see it. It can always be unlocked by pushing it forward with a screwdriver. Mine worked intermittently until I pulled the gearshift in out of 1st gear a bunch of times and lubed it took all of 10 minutes. The shifter assembly can be pulled out in half an hour or so using simple hand tools and the manual that shows how to do it costs less than $50 on ebay and their are videos as well. The cam gizmatchie can then be tied or screwed out of the way. USA shifters in San Diego rebuilds these pieces of junk and sells rebuild kit. Again right in the owners manual are instruction on how to release the gearshift with just a screwdriver!!
My tube was empty, I filled the tube and squeezed the hoses on both sides until the bubbles stopped and tube was full. Lube up O ring and put back together
Solved my low idle cold air problem, always hot no matter the RPM
Hope this helps your problem
Just wondering what things I should look out for on this vehicle that may be a sign of an issue.
Thanks
Thanks Ted