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http://releases.usnewswire.com/GetRelease.asp?id=54471
it's here: http://www.consumerreports.org/main/content/display_report.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=79074- 3&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=389451&bmUID=1128432095194
Toyota Highlander Hybrid
The hIGHlander Line
Body style 4-door SUV
Drive wheels Front or AWD
Trim lines Base, Limited, Hybrid, Hybrid Limited
Engines & transmissions
2.4-liter 4 (155 hp), 3.3-liter V6 (215 hp), 3.3-liter V6 hybrid (268 hp), CVT, 4-speed automatic, 5-speed automatic
Base price range
$24,530-$39,290
HIGHS | Acceleration, transmission, fuel economy, low emissions, ride, quietness, fit and finish, access, third-row seat.
LOWS | Buyers interested in hybrids only to save money may be disappointed.
Toyota Highlander
VERSION TESTED
TRIM LINE Hybrid Limited
Price: Base/Tested $39,290/$39,885
DRIVETRAIN
Engine 3.3-liter V6 (268 hp) hybrid
Transmission CVT
Drive wheels AWD
Major options None
Tires tested
Model & size Goodyear Integrity, size 225/65R17 101S
RATINGS
PERFORMANCE
Acceleration
0 to 60 mph, sec. 7.4
45 to 65 mph, sec. 4.7
Quarter-mile, sec. 15.8
Transmission
Routine handling
Emergency handling
Avoid. maneuver, max. spd., mph 49
Braking
Distance from 60 mph, ft. 148
Headlights
COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE
Ride
Noise
Driving position
Front-seat comfort
Rear-seat comfort
Access
Controls and displays
Interior fit and finish
Cargo area
PREDICTED RELIABILITY
FUEL
Overall mpg/type 22/regular
City/highway mpg 16/28
Capacity, gal./Cruising range, mi. 17.2/435
Annual cost, 15K mi. at $3.00/gal. $2,015
SAFETY
CRASH AND ROLLOVER TESTS
IIHS frontal offset Good
IIHS side with/without side air bags NA/NA
NHTSA front, driver/pass. /
NHTSA side, driver/rear /
Rollover, 2WD/4WD /
AIR BAGS
Side, front/rear opt./no
Side curtain optional
SAFETY BELTS
Center-rear belt 3-point
Adj. upper anchors, f/r yes/no
Pretensioners, f/r yes/no
ACTIVE SAFETY
Antilock brakes standard
Traction control standard
Stability control standard
SPECIFICATIONS
DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHT
Length/width/height, in. 184/72/68
Wheelbase, in. 107
Turning circle, ft. 40
Ground clearance, in. 7
Curb weight, lb. (% front/rear) 4,430 (56/44)
Maximum load, lb. 1,160
Cargo volume, cu. ft. 38
Towing capacity, lb. 3,500
INTERIOR ROOM
Front shoulder room, in. 57.5
Front leg room, in. 41.0
Front head room*, in. 4.0
Rear shoulder room, in. 57.0
Rear leg room, in. 29.5
Rear head room*, in. 4.0
Third-row shoulder room, in. 53.5
Third-row leg room, in. 23.0
Third-row head room, in. 1.5
* Above a person 5'9" tall.
The Toyota Highlander Hybrid is one of our top-rated midsized SUVs. The Highlander Hybrid and its Lexus RX400h sibling are the only vehicles in this class that earned an excellent overall score in our tests. Like the Honda Accord Hybrid, which we previously tested, it is an example of a new wave of hybrid vehicles that use their gas/electric powertrain to boost engine performance as well as fuel economy. The result is significantly quicker acceleration coupled with cleaner emissions and a moderate increase in gas mileage, compared with their conventional versions. Its 22-mpg gas mileage is among the best we’ve gotten in a midsized SUV.
The Highlander Hybrid is an excellent overall package, but for drivers considering a hybrid to save money, it’s hard to build a dollars-and-cents case for it. First, this top-of-the-line model has an as-tested sticker price--$39,855--to match its extensive feature lists. That’s about $4,500 more than the conventional V6 Limited version we previously tested, which got 19 mpg overall. With a fuel-economy improvement of 3 mpg, the Highlander Hybrid can save more than $300 per year in fuel costs (assuming you drive 15,000 miles a year with gasoline costing around $3 a gallon). Even with those savings, it could take about 15 years to make up the initial price difference.
Overall, the Highlander provides an inviting blend of performance, fuel economy, comfort, and features for those who don’t mind paying extra. According to our 2005 subscriber survey, the Lexus 400h’s reliability has been excellent in the short time it’s been in owners’ hands. We expect the same from the Highlander Hybrid.
THE DRIVING EXPERIENCE
On the road the Highlander Hybrid differs little from its conventional cousin. It is a well-mannered, comfortable vehicle. The Highlander has a firm ride but soaks up bumpy roads well. It’s supple and steady on the highway. The Highlander is very quiet, with a bit of muted outside noise noticeable. When running in electric-only mode the powertrain is eerily silent, particularly at start up.
In corners the Highlander felt responsive but not particularly agile. Body lean is well-contained, and the electric steering feels normal and well-weighted. All-wheel-drive models use an independent electric motor to drive the rear wheels, which eliminates the conventional driveshaft and saves weight. On our track the SUV felt secure at its handling limits. The Highlander displayed good tire grip, and its ESC was well-calibrated, as it posted a relatively high maximum speed in our avoidance–maneuver.
Power comes from a 3.3-liter V6 coupled with three electric motors and a battery system to produce 268 hp. At up to 12 mph, and when reversing, the Highlander runs on electric power only. Acceleration is strong, just 7.8 seconds to 60 mph, on par with some V8s, but overall fuel economy is better than we’ve gotten with small four-cylinder SUVs. The standard continuously variable transmission is smooth and responsive. The Highlander quickly pulled our 3,500-pound trailer--its limit--to 60 mph in a relatively quick 15.2 seconds.
Braking performance was good, but the long stops trailed its conventional twin. This is likely because of low-rolling-resistance tires designed for less grip and better fuel economy. Wet-braking stops were not much longer, and the brake pedal felt normal, despite the hybrid’s regenerative braking system.
The Highlander’s low-beam headlights performed well, and high-beam performance was very good.
INSIDE THE CABIN
The interior is plush and well-detailed, with supple leather and chrome accents throughout. The view forward is good, and the rear view is mostly clear and unobstructed. The steering wheel has tilt adjustments but does not adjust fore and aft.
The front seats are firm and comfortable, with good back support. Taller drivers found the short seat cushion lacked thigh support. The rear seats are roomy enough for three adults, with ample knee and head room. The hybrid Highlander has better thigh support than the conventional gas-only version because the battery pack, stored under the rear seat, elevates the cushion. The lack of a rear driveshaft results in a flat second-row floor. Our Highlander had a third-row seat, but it is mainly for childre
Front-seat and second-row access through the wide door openings is very easy. It’s quite a challenge, however, to access the Highlander’s third-row seat.
The controls and gauges are mostly straightforward and clear. A power-output display shows whether the gas engine, electric motor, or both are supplying power at any given time. The tachometer is replaced by a kilowatt meter. Minor gripes include a high step to the parking brake, a hidden power-mirror control, and a hard-to-reach dimmer switch.
Interior storage space is moderate. The Highlander offers 38.0 cubic-feet of cargo capacity with the 60/40-split second and 50/50-split third rows folded. A full-size spare tire is stored below the vehicle.
SAFETY NOTES
The rear head restraints need to be raised to provide adequate whiplash protection.
Driving with kids. The most secure fit for rear-facing child seats is with the LATCH system in the outboard second row. LATCH anchors are easily found in the Highlander. The Highlander’s third row lacks top tether anchors.
First on MPG, I think I'd have a better shot of getting 40MPG than 16. I actually tried on a short run and I couldn't average 16 even up a hill. Even though we've argued about MPG, I think everyone belatedly comes onboard to the theory that MPG improves with time (wear-in\driving adaptation). I see everyone's numbers improving and almost everyone's north of 25MPG now.
The text must be wrong in 0-60 as 7.8 because the table shows 7.4. Several car mags got the HH to 60 in under 7 secs. And I have, too. The trick is to have the engine running first. That means braking and revving before accelerating.
So, the HH is the first midsize SUV to get top rating and we know it’s better than tested . . . but could’ve been better and greener. The 4cyl should’ve at least been an option.
I think we should set ourselves a task of finding a way to fooling the HH into thinking the CC is always warm enough. Probably a thermostat there.
http://toyotaiguide.com/
Mike
I have not seen an on-line multi-media training course outside the S/W or engineering related industry yet, this is great!
But you need the rear spoiler for this (to keep the car on the ground).
:-)
I did get my new Consumer Reports today.
mmreid
(that was NOT easy!)
mmreid
Thanks.Charlie
Actually, where it drives me the most crazy is on cars when the driver's door automatically unlocks on the lever pull, so I get out (having pocketed the key), then go to open the back door to get out one of the kids... and then it's locked. I have to fish the keys out of my pocket to find the remote, or if the rental didn't include the remote, I have to key open the driver's door to unlock the car. ARGH.
So, anyway, what's the argument *for* this "feature"? There has to be one, I just can't figure out what it is.
Good luck
It's a matter of convenience and what you are used to. My old Corolla with aftermarket alarm would lock all doors on ignition and unlock all doors on engine off. I found it quite convenient.
Now that I don't have a vehicle with this feature, I pretty much never think to lock my doors except when I find that I'm traveling in a possibly dangerous area and think to myself, Oh, maybe I should lock my doors. So I would prefer to have this feature.
Of course,this is kinda absurd-dragging Rube Goldberg wagon behind a $40,000 vehicle-,it would make more sense to add about 2-3 more 3 KWH batteries(say 200 lbs),and just charge them with 10 cent a KWH electricity before you leave.You should be able to got 20-30 miles with no-or little-ice.
I wasn't sure if you were kidding about carrying the generator in a trailer behind you;dragging the alternators would trade the little gasoline motor for wheel-belt driven alternators.This would be a lot like those old bicycle generators that used to run off the sidewall of the tire-they were used for the lights.Thanks.Charlie
When I see all these new SUVs and giant trucks ( traded my Tundra D cab on the Hh) idling at drive throughs, perusing mall parking, etc. it just screams HYBRID!
Wes
Using a wheel/tire to turn a generator/alternator would undoubtedly result in enough addition drag to more than equal the output of the alternator due to the parasitic loses. 10 HP in, 8 HP out.
If one were going to do that then why not just attach the alternator to one of the wheels of the host vehicle to begin with.
Oh, sorry, that's how the M/G set in the hybrid already works when it's in generator mode.
Like a fine wine, it improves with time.
If clutched,and manually engaged when braking,you would still lose energy from the RR of the tires,bearing,having to accel the extra mass.Like I said,it is 90%tongue in cheek.
A much better way is to add more battery capacity-accept the weight penality,space penality-and charge it up every morning with 10 cent KWH electricity.Of course,that electricity is probably going up in price also,and the battery packs are expensive.lead batteries are cheaper,but waaay heavy.
The regen braking is as close to a free lunch as you can get,but it isn't free-it costs about $8000 more for a Prius(relative to a Corolla),and about the same for a HH.
You have the same "no free energy problem" with your gen.You would use a 10 hp motor to produce maybe 4-5 hp worth of electricity-no free lunch;and you won't get any "free" energy.If I were serious about this,then I would certainly clutch it,and slave it to the brake pedal(and accept the funny -jerky-brake feel).Still,I would have to drag around this 150 lb gadget all the time,not just when it was getting free energy.90% tongue in cheek.
I'm about 20% seriously thinking about hooking some sort of junkyard hybrid assist to my pickup.Drive a series of alternators off the drive shaft-have them charge batteries in the bed-drive a 10 -20 hp electric motor with the batteries.It would have to be all manual,or maybe just switches on the brake pedal.A 20 hp motor could probably keep it at a steady 30 mph.
Unfortunately it would weigh waay too much using off the shelf and junkyard stuff-deep cycle batteries(400 lbs easy).It isn't for nothing that Toyota spent $100 millions,and charges $5000 extra.Light stuff-batteries-motors-is expensive.Integrating it is very expensive.
Weight loss,and driving technique changes are much cheaper-easier-cost effective.
Thanks.Charlie
And in the longer term how about using compressed natural gas to "phill" that tank in your garage each night. Run the ICE and genset on natural gas pumped from your "station" at home.
Somebody pointed to the site http://toyotaiguide.com/ which is a comprehensive, flash-based (?) site, even set for the trim level, that does the paper manual one better if you want to explore. In there under Other Features/Customizable Electronic Features it lists under dealer-settable options that the Door Lock Control System/Auto Lock Function to Lock the Door When the Vehicle Reaches a Set Speed (whew!) is set to default off and can be turned on by the dealer. So it seems this can be set at least to lock at some unspecified speed. Haven't had a reason yet to go back to the dealer (2500 miles, no problems or complaints found, how's that for satisfaction?) but when we do for first oil change we'll have them change the setting and see if that's the answer. - John
I have given serious thought to this exact situation...
"No top-off this time, stopped pumping when the auto-cutoff popped."
I am 'trained' to FILLUP the tank with as much fuel as 'she' holds...for obvious reasons, in an environment of daily fluctuating fuel cost.
In this manner, next to 'hyper' inflation of the tires, I may be able to somewhat 'standerdize' my fuel volume from one fill up to the next.
Perhaps resulting in a more accurate 'linear' flow of mpg.
BTW I am really 'heartened' to know that some of you actually achieved the 'hypermileage' status of 30 mpg, there is some hope after all...
Something like this is certainly why Toyota doesn't capture more brake energy(like I'm suggesting with my contraption)-it probably would give the braking a very odd feel-maybe unsafe-and certainly harder to correctly modulate the brake pedal.Toyota chose to make the braking just like"real" braking.
I wonder what precent of the electrical energy used is"free" braking energy??In CR's city loop they travel 33% farther(12 vs16) with the HH vs the H V-6 despite 300 extra lbs;pretty impressive.Most -all-of the city electrical energy must be free.
Oh well,everytime I hit the brake of the Titan,I can feel the waste.Pleasure.Charlie
The plug in ideas with extra batteries will involve space,weight and cost.
I wonder just what sort of mpg a Prius would get if it dumped the batteries-motors etc.If it was just a standard CVT ICE with the little 4 cyl atk. engine?It should match-beat the Prius hy mpg.It would be a Corolla with a smaller,more efficient motor-a bit lighter than a Corolla.Pointless,of course,Toyota already makes a Corolla.
Well,it is tough to improve on what the Toyota engineers produce.Pleasure.Charlie
PS Wheel weight decreases are one potential free lunch.I'm sure the Hybrids come with fairly light-cast aluminum wheels,but there is probably a 1or 2 lbs per wheel that could be saved there.Unfortunately the free lunch will cost about $700-Centerline now makes FWD forged wheels-.They would never save $700 worth of gas,but...-lotta' folks like the aftermarket look.I would stick with stock size wheels of course.I went this route with the Titan-lost 11 lbs per wheel over the 17" steel wheels-about 6 per wheel less than OEM aluminum 17".Improved the ride,but no way could I measure a mpg increase.
If it is settable via a sequence of buttons pushed similar to other toyota's in the past I wish it would be published to not force a dealer visit.
There is hope but it sure ain't easy. On a scale of 1 to 5 where 1 is full speed racing and 5 is driving at 10 below posted speed limit, achieving the 30 MPG for us in mixed city and highway at 35 psi :-) was about 4.5 where 4 == driving at speed limit or 5 mph below posted limit.
For us, it seems impractical to always try for 30 mpg due to traffic pattern. Driving at speed limit or 5 below and a lot of coasting is yielding 28-29, so that is where we will likely "sit" for now.
In practice, it is not necessary for the HH to be running on pure electric in order to achieve higher mpg numbers. It is capable of yielding high MPG even when ICE comes on.
We have often seen the ICE coming on to maintain a speed and the on-board computer will report a constant 29, 31, 35, 40, 45, sometimes even 55 mpg. This proved useful in our recent experiment to break the 30 MPG mark. Regardless of whether it is battery or ICE, as long as the speed and terrain allows mpg number to rise to or go beyond 29 MPG, we are in good shape.
I've an oil changed my 2004 highlander when it was reach approx. 4K plus mile.
The Maintenance Record pilot light just lighted when the millage is reach to 5K.
My question: Could the warn pilot light can be reset without bring the car to the Toyota dealer?
Regards,
Long2
And it was an absolutely TRUE and accurate reading.
The on-board system takes a sample and reports a data point at a set interval. What is happening before and after a sample is unknown. But if the sampling rate is high, meaning the interval between samples is short, then the data points are usable regardless of what happens between samples. When the sample set is large enough, say 1000 or 10000 data points, one can plot a graph and the curve traced by the data points will be a good approximation of what actually happens for the duration from the first sample to the last sample.
Does this help the HH? Yes.
By periodically peeking at the sample data points, I can get a feel for how poorly or how well I am doing at the end of a trip. If the MPG is reading 16 MPG or worse each time I peeked, by the end of a trip, I can expect no better than 16 MPG. But if the read-out shows numbers consistently above 29 MPG, then the car may indeed be able to get 29 MPG at the end of a trip.
So far, the on-board MPG number is within 0.75-1.5 MPG of our manual calculation at each fill-up, depending on if we top off, that is good enough for us.
Under Remote Keyless Entry System
Unlock Operation – instead of one click to unlock drivers door and a second click to unlock the other doors, I changed mine to unlock all doors with just one click.
Auto Lock Delay – Once the doors are unlocked, if a door is not opened with in 30 seconds, the doors will relock automatically. I had them change mine to 60 seconds.
Under Door Lock Control with Key
Unlock Operation – instead of turning the key once to unlock drivers door and a second time to unlock the other doors, I changed mine to unlock all doors with just one key turn.
Those of you that want the auto lock feature turned on (I didn’t – like some of the other folks out there, I find that feature annoying, however, I do see where it might be beneficial to others.) Anyway, those of you that want this feature turned on, (it locks the doors when the vehicle reaches a set speed) will need to advise the dealer the next time you take it in for service. You might want to bring some support documentation with you. (I’ve attached a screen shot of the Customizable Electronic Features page from the DVD)
One last FYI – while surfing the net, I came across several postings of Customizable Electronic Features for other Toyota vehicles as well. My dealer service technicians (and service manager) were not aware that this was available in any Toyota model.
Under Door Lock Control System
Tell the dealer you want this feature turned on. (it locks the doors when the vehicle reaches a set speed, and will unlock when you put the car in Park) You might want to bring some support documentation with you.
1) Turn the ignition key to the ON position while holding down the TRIP METER reset knob.
2) Hold down the knob at least for 5 seconds.
Mike
What is ICE?
I am awaiting delivery of our new HH, hopefully mid November. Was supposed to be end of September.
Thanks in advance.
BTW, I broke 30+ mpg for the second time today - my mileage is approaching 1000 miles - a lot of practice with changed driving habits but worth it in the long run.
I am on the waiting list for a HH and am trying to do as much research about my decision while I can still change my mind.
One thing I am wondering about from current HH drivers is where they get service. I don't do a lot of my own car maintenance personally, and I was wondering if anyone has had any luck getting service from anywhere other than the dealership. I asked my local gas station service guy and he won't touch a hybrid.
Thanks for your thoughts!
I've owned 2 other Toyota's with esc (my '04 Tundra D Cab, which I ordered, has it). I have experienced the way ESC reacts. My wife 360'ed our '95 T 100 in a snowstorm. With ABS and ESC, both unavailable in '94, I don't think she'd have spun.
I bought my HH and drove it 500 miles right after purchasing it and the dealer never really had a chance to explain anything but the most elementary things about it. I'm going through the website and checking out everything and it is super helpful (and I did read the manual but stuff like that gives me brain cramps).
I'm past 3,000 miles now and the mileage around town seems to be improving.
Oh, confusion about ICE - it also can stand for In Case of Emergency and there has been a lot of info about putting a listing in your cell phone that reads ICE and name of husband, wife, etc. so if something happens the police or EMTs can check your cell phone and immediately call that party. It's a great idea but that it can also stand for internal combustion engine kind of confused me at first too.">
mmreid
mmreid