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Did the person with the whining in the steering column get that resolved. I had been trying to ignore that until I had reason to go in. My car isn't hard to turn, but there is definitely something there. That issue is on the list of things for them to look at while they have it YET AGAIN.
I had the original power steering line replaced a year ago. It SUDDENLY lost all fluid as I turned. I don't think there was any gradual loss. That is the one (of the many) repairs that I am still angry at GM over. When mine happened it was beginning to be an issue in our colder climates. I am sorry, but with the way my situation was this should not even be a TSB. This should be a RECALL. I will forever be grateful that I was pulling into a parking spot because had I been driving down the highway changing lanes or something, I can only imagine the problems this could cause.
Recently I've read several articles about the 2006 Impala's - that they are not very reliable afterall. This disappointed me because it was rated so high. The article stated there were problems with the brakes, power train and suspension.
Has anyone experienced problems with the feeling while you're driving that the front is on rubber balls and the car is bouncing around?
I DO have issues with the suspension in my '06 SS. Other than that, the only other issues are whining from the A/C and slow heater. I haven't been able to get a dealership to acknowledge the front suspension problem but I think that is just their reluctance to pay for a repair. I have 2 other '06, one '07, Impalas in my family and none of them have this problem. However, I'm the only one with an SS and had attributed it to the extra weight of the larger engine/stronger transaxle.
Hearing that you have a problem with the suspension on an LTZ is, at least, a bit redeeming. That would possibly indicate that it IS a suspension issue and not a design flaw that I have reluctantly started to believe. I had already planned to make one more attempt at getting it resolved before my warranty expired. I thank you for the input.
Any other non-SS owners having the "bouncy" front suspension problem? In my case, it's nearly impossible to identify unless you're actually driving the car. In other words, you can do the standard suspension bounce test and see how many rebounds it takes to stabilize the car but this will appear normal because a person can't push hard enough to get the suspension into the zone where the problem exists. However, when driving, it is EXTREMELY erratic. I can best isolate it going over speed "humps" (the longer, softer speed bumps that you can drive over comfortably up to about 10 mph). When driving over these, the suspension bounces 3-4 times before leveling. Also, it is extremely noticeable when at higher speeds, 40 mph +, uneven/rolling bumps (not potholes or sharp bumps, just not perfectly flat) while turning. These are minor road imperfections that would easily be absorbed by a modern suspension (and are by my sisters' Impalas) but mine seems to buck (rebound) hard off of them. It's not the absorption...or the initial bump that's bad, it's the suspension's reaction to them that's problematic. It definitely does not inspire confidence.
I would love to hear from others, especially if you found a way to convince a dealer that this problem existed and got a repair.
Thanks, ckas78!
If your vehicle has an outside temperature display, during remote start this feature allows the climate control system to default to a heating mode during colder outside temperatures and a cooling mode during warmer outside temperatures. If your vehicle does not have an outside temperature display, during remote start the climate control system will turn on at the setting the vehicle was set to when the vehicle was last turned off.
Your vehicle may have a remote starting feature. This feature allows you to start the engine from outside of the vehicle. It may also start up the vehicle’s heating or air conditioning systems and rear window defogger. When the remote start system is active the vehicle will automatically regulate the inside temperature. Normal operation of the system will return after the key is turned to the RUN position.
Yes, daytime running lights (DRL) are different from headlights (in the sense of when/why they are engaged and what other items/features correspond) although from the front of the vehicle, they appear the same.
It makes perfect sense that your dash lights are at their brightest when the sun is at its highest in the sky. This is because that feature (automatic headlamps) is controlled by ambient lighting. As the sun goes down at sunset (or reversed for dawn), the angle in which light enters the sensor changes. This allows for your headlights to come on even while it's still fairly bright outside. This is obviously safer than waiting for it to be totally dark before the headlamps/tail lamps engage.
As they posted above, make sure that you have nothing blocking the light to the sensor on your dash (and that is is clean). It looks like a caramel colored bubble. Also, I have seen the cover (the bubble) get knocked loose to cause similar problems. It's also possible you have something else blocking the ambient light, such as a dash cover (would very likely cause a problem) or items hanging from the rear-view mirror (less likely).
It seems like the system is functioning but just "confused." Double-check the tail lights when the display is dim. This will indicate that the car is in night mode (headlamps/tail lamps/dimmed radio/dash lighting) vs. daytime running lamp (DRL) mode (headlamps/no tail lamps/bright radio/dash lighting). If the tail lamps being on corresponds to the dim display, you'll know the system is working but not reading the ambient lighting accurately. You will have done the majority of the service department's troubleshooting for them.
Good luck and be sure to post back with updates.
Ron
If I didn't have this isolated problem I would highly recommend the Impala....it is a great car to drive both in the city and is great on the highway....perfect size too if you are looking for the extra room that some imports don't have...the trunk space has amazed many people....4 sets of golf clubs are not an issue.
Registering at the site is also a good way to get any recall info and such too, since you can enter your VIN so they'll know exactly which vehicle you have.
I haven't seen many positive post but just wanted to say I have not experienced any of the issues that I have seen listed. Of course, I live in the sunny South and don't have to contend with the severe winters that others do. Don't know if that has anything to do with the fact my dash doesn't squesk, my key fob works well, the remote start works across a large parking lot and I haven't had a loss of steering fluid as of this post. So, just thought I would sign up and post a positive note to say that there are a few good Impalas out there and I feel like mine is one of them.
I might add I have owned Toyota's, Honda's, VW's, Nissan's, Ford's, Chrysler's and other GM products and I feel this car is as good as any of those and better than most. Just my 2 cents worth - Thanks.
long time lurker here but it seems I've read about this problem here. I have an 06SS with 17K and no problems really since new. yesterday driving in heavy traffic while leaving a stop light the transmission really slammed with the 1-2 upshift.
No problems before or since and the downshifts are fine. I drive the car pretty hard but never any abuse. Does this seem worthy of trip to the dealer or just wait and see? I might add about 4 months ago I checked my trans dipstick and found the level to be 1 full quart low from the factory, never any leaks, I realize I should have checked it long before that, learned a valuable lesson, never take this for granted that it's right when new. This fact is causing me to worry about yesterdays problem, that running the car for 12K or so at a quart low might have caused some now appearing damage.
There are a lot of factors involved in that slam you refer to. I have had an occasional hard shift but mine seem to be attributable to just the right amount of throttle and particular timing to get it to happen. I've either learned how to avoid it subconsciously or it was a temporary thing that may have been fixed by the car's computer. I'm not really sure.
Before you take in, there is one thing I'm sure of. If you can't replicate the problem, the service department won't be able to help you. So, I would suggest trying to duplicate the problem. If you can repeatedly cause it to happen, then you should take it in. If not, you're wasting your time (not a dig at you or the service department).
I would assume it's possible the the lower level of fluid may have caused the problem that one time. Now that you've topped it off, it may elminate the needed variable that allowed it to happen. As for any long term damage, I don't believe you'll have any problems. Lower fluid levels are anticipated and the various components aren't THAT sensitive to "minor" issues like that. I believe (but may be wrong) that if your fluids were at a low enough level to cause any real problems, you would've noticed transmission slipping. Rest assured, you'll have that thought in the back of your mind, though, and you'll notice any new peculiar behavior. Rest easy but also continue to pay attention to your baby. I'm sure she'll be fine.
Ron
The chime and blinker sounds should be heard on the Left front speaker
jt
I have somewhat the same problem,my radio just dim all the time. The dealership replace the radio 2 times. The radio display is still dim.
If you have found a answer? Let me know
To define the problem,
Driver information center shows ENGINE HOT A/C OFF and shuts off the AC. It also kicks in Radiator fan full time. The temperature gage is reading Zero. The car is not overheating.
This is what I found out. What is happening is that the temperature sensor is not reporting the information correctly, which cause the computer to assume that the sensor is not working and go into default safe mode. In order to prevent overheating, since the computer is blind to the engine condition due to faulty sensor reading, it shuts off the AC and turn on the radiator fan full speed.
I had thermostat replaced which did nothing for the above reason. I don't even know why the dealership even tried to do that since when the temperature reading is zero, it is not the thermostat. Thermostat replacement should only be needed if the car is actually overheating. When I took it in next time, dealership was instructed by the GM tech center not do anything until the new computer calibration becomes available. What they explained to me is that when the sensor gets old, the data signal gets weaker. The new calibration is to be able to read the sensor, even if it starts to send weaker signals. After about a month, it became available. That was last week, the week of April 27th, 2008. There is, or will be a new service bulletin for this.
For those that got the sensor replaced, it was the right thing to do so that the sensor was sending full strength. However, the new sensor might fail faster than expected as well.
I got new calibration yesterday. I will be observing it for a while. I drive about 3K per month so I should have a fast longterm info. You should be able to get this done free of charge by the dealer.
I hope this actually solved the problem. Unfortunately, my problem was intermittent so it is hard to tell if this worked. I hope this will help many people.
I'm not a mechanic but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night! Kidding but I believe I'm correct about this. I'm not 100% sure about FWD cars, though, so I don't want to waste your time if I'm wrong.
I'm going to test mine now that it has been noticed as a recurring problem and I have 35,800 on mine. I have already had my ISS replaced and have been feeling some clunking lately...also have to turn my wheel about 5 degrees to the right to go straight.
Sooo.......... since this non-mechanical female is not going to be jacking up this car and looking at anything can you tell me if there are any signs I might notice if this was the problem. Whatever is going on is probably the last problem that I will have with this car. I really think that it is being traded in the next month or two since my warranty is about up. This car has had way too many warranty issues to even think about keeping it. Yet, I would like to feel that it is a comfortable ride until it does get traded in.
I was stating I had to turn my wheel to the right to go straight as a personal issue with my car. In other words, if I hold the steering wheel centered...to what would presumably be straight ahead, my car will slowly drift to the left. In some mild left turns, I can hold the wheel in the straight ahead, 12 o'clock position, and still make the turn. It's not bad but it isn't right, either.
The Holiday Inn Express comment is a reference to Holiday Inn's ad campaign. If you haven't seen one of their commercials, I'm sorry. It would take too long to explain.
As for the indications of a bad tie rod, I'm not sure you would definitely know what was wrong without actually checking it out but you could notice some "clunky" feelings through the steering wheel and possibly some issues with the car seeming to be tracking straight (with the wheel at a certain position) but then notice is doesn't track straight a moment later. This may be more of a problem on uneven roads or roads with grooves cut in them. Grooves will make any car pull in different directions, though, so please don't get antsy after driving on a grooved road.
Bottom line on tie rod ends is that they will allow the wheel to turn slightly even while holding the steering wheel steady. Basically, the affected wheel is a bit loose in the sense that it doesn't follow the input from the steering wheel 100%. It is a minor issue in most cases, but will affect the car's overall handling and tire wear. Many people would never realize there was a problem other than having to hold their wheel in a position other than straight to GO straight. That is why I've started wondering if this could be causing my problem. Now, I just have to figure out if i'm too lazy to jack my car up to check it.
Roads with gooves will really cause a car with out-of-alignment rear wheels to fight. If it drives nice on flat, newly paved roads and seems to wander erratically when on older unevenly worn roads, a 4-wheel alignment would be the place to start.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Note: In the past (not sure about present day) some mechanics would intentionally set the alignment of a car to pull slightly to the left to counter the crown at the center of most roads.
If you are a person who notices these variations in the roads that you drive on, you will likely know that some roads seem to lean in one direction (usually to the right) and other roads may seem relatively flat. If your car doesn't track straight on the "flat" roads, it's worth looking into.
Hopefully this doesn't make this more confusing. It's not always easy to explain things that are dependent upon the "feel" of driving.
Good luck,
Ron
There is also a low roar that I'm not sure if it is a wheel bearing, rear end, or maybe a tire. Or, could it be exhaust? I noticed a rattling of the exhaust pipe and an uneven exhaust noise from the pipe from the outside.
The original noise I was listening for is a metallic sound sort of like a cheep that seems to be coming from a back wheel. I can hear it driving past a forested area or a center barricade on the roads with the window down. It seems to echo back.
Any ideas on any of these noises?
Any continuous road noise that sound like a grinding sound could be an indication of a bad bearing although that is rare. If your mileage is in the 30K - 40K range, you might be hearing more road noise than when the car was new. Tires get increasingly louder as they lose their tread. There really is no "rear-end" per se with a FWD car. I'm no fan of Good Year and your tires could be the culprit. My sister said her car was getting really bad (upper 30Ks) and after she got her new tires, it sounded like a new car again.
Since you're also hearing a rattling in the exhaust, you may want to look for any obvious damage. It's possible something has happened that you hadn't noticed that is now showing itself.
I know you've had a lot of "fun" with your car. Hopefully this will turn out to be nothing.
Good luck,
Ron
As far as the roar noise, I have just over 36K and it is the second set of tires. The OEM Goodyear's were worn out after about 20K when the belts started showing on the inside. Alignment (that the mechanic said I didn't need) and bad balancing got them. I also feel some slight vibration even at upper speeds that the mechanic says will always be there because tires are never completely round.
What damage should I look for with the exhaust?
Your right, numerous problems and new parts. I changed to a different dealership for further maintenance after the BBB hearing, but it didn't take them long to decide (or get told) that I'm the problem and not the car, even though they have heard and worked on a couple of the problems that the first dealership just couldn't replicate. I'm still fighting with GM over the car. I'm getting ready to make myself a big window sign that says General Motors LEMON and see if I can advertise for them.
Regarding the exhaust, my suggestion was just a shot in the dark. If you're comfortable looking underneath, perhaps even crawling under, you could look for dents (like something a big rock might make) and see if the exhaust is loose. It should only move a little...I'm fairly certain it is hung by rubber bushings/spacers. You may stumble upon something...perhaps even something left behind by the folks who changed your filter.
I know what it can be like not to be taken seriously by a service department. I have had two different ones tell me my suspension is fine but I KNOW it doesn't ride like it's supposed to. Unfortunately, it's not bad enough to be obvious and even the suspension "expert" can't feel the "wobbling" I feel. My car drives worse than any other Impala I've ridden in and I've driven at least 5 others.
I've learned something new with each car purchase. This one has taught me not to assume anything. Bose premium sound, better handling, etc. doesn't mean anything if it doesn't actually work. Next time I'll be going over the car with a fine toothed comb before I buy it.