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Thanks, Ron
Another possible problem is the crank shaft position sensor, which is mounted in a very hot place in the side of oil pan. These sensors sometimes fail due to hot environment and can cause misfire problem that you explained. Sensor costs something less than $100 but takes a little bit work to change as it is mounted in the side of the oil pan behind starter motor.
Another ignition timing sensor is the cam shaft position sensor. This one is a bit more work to change as at least in my '04 Tahoe it is mounted behind intake air manifold, which might need to come out for access.
Would be best if you could somehow repeat the stalling problem and monitor fuel pressure at the same time. If pressure drops off first and causes engine to stall it probably is the fuel pump problem. It could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.
Have you asked your mechanic why he thinks it is the fuel pump problem?
Ask him about the other possible reasons, like the sensors I mention above.
Arrie
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Does anyone know where I can get a body for a 1983 2500 diesel GMC Suburban. I also need a new interior. Does anyone know what size speakers it has. Could I put a ladderback pick up body on it? Any info would be welcomed. This is my first car so I realy need some info. THANK YOU
I have a 1990 chevy blazer that is having (has been having...) some really bizarre electrical problems. It started with what i thought was a bad install of an aftermarket alarm system that was making the radio be on constant scan in FM mode and the cigarette lighter was making the dome lite go on... I disconnected the box to the alarm, rewired the stereo and those went away.
Then, I noticed the oil pressure guage was bouncing up and down as if it had a loose wire... i found none. The interesting part was that when it was showing good pressure, the truck ran fine. When the guage dropped to almost zero, the truck started to run horribly. I knew that the oil pressure itself was not really low because of the way the guage bounced back and forth like it wasn't connected well... but why would the truck think it was supposed to run bad just cuz the guage said so? Even more bizarre... if the gas tank is running close to empty, and the oil pressure guage drops low again, the truck will start to stall at idle and the "check guages" light will come on. Anyone know what might cause this?
There are greater problems than this, unfortunately, because now the truck just won't even turn over. I've replaced a bad starter and it worked for a few days but started giving me trouble by not even clicking when i turn the key sometimes... wait... try again a few times... and then turns over as if i just connected the battery again! The last time it happened... it never started again. That was a week ago.
I wonder if the wires in the steering column could be related to both problems. The reason is because I also have this problem with the turn signal switch... sometimes the windshield wipers will go one for one pass when I use the turn signal... and lately I noticed a really strange "winding down" noice coming from the turn relay that seems to correspond with the timing of the pressure guage dropping and the check guages light coming on.
I'm so frustrated i don't know what to do first. HELP? I hope someone can make sense of this!
I would do 2 things, first check the entire power steering system/power brake booster for hydraulic fluid leaks. Replace any leaking part. Also, make sure you fluid reservoir is filled to the appropriate level. (Do not overfill, that will likely cause a part of the system to start leaking.
I bought it during the day, and didn't notice till last night that the overhead interior lights do not work. This applies to the 3 sets that are over each seeting row and also the lights on the inside panels of both rear doors.
I pushed the dome overide switch several times, and no change. I also tried manually turning lights on with dimmer dial by turning full up.
I also noticed the underhood light, does not come on, and the reverse lights are not working.
I checked the underhood fuse labeled INTPARK and appears fine, (I will double check with an Ohm meter)
Is there a relay or another fuse that might be the culprit. Perhaps one related to the Retained Accessory Power circuit. I know it is involved with all but the reverse lights.
Just FYI, the front row map reading lights do work, as well as glovebox light, and front door panel lights.
Any one with similar issues or a fix would be greatly appreciated.
the same problem. I pulled the bat cable and put an
amp meter on. Watched the current draw, and found
the interior light circuit pulling too much. Pulled
the fuse for the interior lights and problem went away.
Since we use it so little, I have not fixed it, but
problem is the delay module for the interior lights.
Part of the reason why, when we were looking for an '04, it had to have the controls. Even the dealer said it was dumb that so many other dealers ordered the trucks without them back then, because you loose all that programming functionality.
They then became standard in '05+ models.
Thank you,
Also I still haven't figured out my headliner lights are not working, is there any way to test the relays in the fuse box that is located to the right of steering column under the dash??? Owners manual shows 2 different relays associated with headliner power.
Thanks for any input. Catam.
Arrie
There is also an expansion valve (I think that is the name), that could be plugged, which may be limiting freon flow.
The only other thing I can think of would be the evaporator in the dash for the front AC. (Pray its not that because its a real PITA to change.
Thanks for any info. Catam.
few months ago. Fog light was a perfect fit, and was
about $42.00.
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
owned previously in which I was replaceing brake pads every 20 - 25,000 miles.
Anyway, I am looking for a company that will go through one of these and completely rebuild / upgrade Suburbans from front to back,
mostly mechanically. I would like to have the engine and transmission rebuilt, or even better, made more powerful. Are there
companies out there that are well known for this sort of thing? I was thinking something down the lines of a "Stillen" type of
rebuilding. Any suggestions? I would really like to keep this one for another 5 - 6 years. I think Chevy / GMC peaked on their
quality with these cars in 2002 / 2003.
Lotsofquestions
He just used a trusted mechanic who did all the work but I think he kept most of it stock.
Steve, Host
Thanks!
Kim
3 or 4 kids or maybe tow a trailer. IMO I believe this country would be the mess it's in with the gas prices, if everyone is always thinking bigger is better. I got rid of my Lincoln Town Car for a Kia. I can afford the gas what is the sense in giving into the oil companies and line
their FATwallets when it's not necessary at all!! I refuse to spend 3 times as much money on gas. I'd rather spend that money on something else that I'd get a better return on. AMERICA needs to learn as far as cars go, BIGGER IS NOT BETTER anymore. Yes, it would be ok if the gas was
more plentiful and less expensive. The oil companies really has a big advantage over us consumers. I am not going to give in to that. Yes I am paying a lot for gas but I am not going to waste it either when I don't have too. Is a Suburban, Escalade etc really necessary? How many are use to their FULL capacity? Especially 4-wheel drives how many actually use them off road?
Well good for you. If you really want to make a statement, ride a bicycle....
I would agree that if you aren't going to use the utility a Suburban/Tahoe offers then another type of vehicle is a better choice. But I'm not going to tell someone else what to drive. At the same time, I don't want to hear SUV owners screaming that they had to put $80 in the tank either. .
I guess you'll just love hearing how my Suburban gets about 5x the fuel economy of my boat. I guess we should ban them too and anything else that is wasteful.
Please don't be a smart aleck you know as well as I do that is not a reasonable answer!
I would agree that if you aren't going to use the utility a Suburban/Tahoe offers then another type of vehicle is a better choice.
That was my point or are least I am trying to say. How many people that buy them actually use the utility of one?
At the same time, I don't want to hear SUV owners screaming that they had to put $80 in the tank either.
I couldn't agree with you more on that.
I am not saying to get rid of EVERYTHING wasteful. I have no issue if someone has one if the are used for what the are intended for.....towing large trailers or transport more than say 4 or 5 people on a regular basis. But to have one one...especially an Escalade....just to show off and impress is just not necessary.
I am hoping just like everyone else gas will go back down you sane levels.
problem is people drive to much. A person with a gas
guzzler that drives 15 miles per day, uses no more gas
that a person that drives 30 - 40 miles per day with
economy car. Everyone seems to forget that many cars
get worse mileage than SUVs. Big Mercedes, BMWs,
Bentlys, Ferraris, all get 8 to 12 mpg city, which is
worse that most SUVs.
As one person said " If you really want to make a
difference ride a bicycle".
I drive two cars, and drive about 7000 miles per year,
so gas in no real big issue to me.
your head or something.
That is an interesting take on why one should/would drive an econobox instead of a gas guzzler--not to help reduce oil dependency, nor to cut down on gas costs...but to keep the oil companies from profiting even further from spiraling gas prices!
give me a break!! IT does all 3!!
I may even put some gas in it this year :-)
The cooler behind the radiator was leaking, so I jumperred around it with hoses and no more leaks--only to confirm it was the cultrate.
I know some people add a second tranny cooler and run it in series with the stock one. Should I replace the one behind the radiator and add a second or just run a high capacity cooler in front of the radiator and leave the one behind unhooked.
I've never seen a trans cooler mounted behind the radiator, doesn't seem like it would leave much room for the fan. Are you positive that what you see is just the trans cooling lines going into the radiator?
I would just run a high capacity cooler in front of the radiator. I forget the proper way to run the lines, but external trans coolers I've seen use the internal cooler as well. I just can't remember if you want the trans fluid to go to the radiator or external cooler first.