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Chevy Suburban



  • Does the vibration go away as you accelerate in park or does it get worse? If so at what rpm? When do you hear the drone noise?
  • Have you mechanic check the position of the p/s pump pulley. It is common to have the pulley pressed too far on to the p/s pump shaft from the factory. If you run your finger over the front on the pulley it should be flush with the shaft.
  • I've got a '90 4x4 1/2 ton 5.7L Suburban and I'm in the process of doing an on engine valve guide seal replacement. I've purchased the after market Fel-Pro seals (e.g. SS-72526/72527) and have completed cylinders 1,3,5,and 7 but I'm left with a question about the function of the lower groove in the valve stem. There seems to be a hardened "ring" in this slot and I've replaced it with the rubber o-ring that came with my seal kit. It's just bothering me that that ring does not seem to be a very exact fit for this groove but it's the only place to install it. Of course, these are not listed in any of the manuals that I've seen.

    Any idea if this is where this o-ring goes and what happens if I'm wrong?

  • ncddogncddog Posts: 1
    had the same problem fixed it by getting Dealer to comply with bulletin which calls for a flex joint at the exhaust manifold like on past model. Dealer orders the kit, and the local muffler shop did the work cut the new stiff connection and weld the old flex joint to the exhaust pipe and then re attach to manifold
    It did the job
  • Do you have the bulletin information for the work done on your truck? Maybe a bulletin number I can refer GM to when I'm dealing with them. I have all the paperwork ready to file a complaint under the lemon law, but I'd like to work it out with GM first.

    Thanks for your help.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    I had that happen on a 98 sub I had years ago, and it was a loose body nut
    and washer. Check all 6 or 8 body bolts, and make sure they are all tight.

    These are the 6 or 8 bolts that connect the body to the frame.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    Put an ampmeter on the battery and pos cable, look at amp draw. Pull each
    fuse until the draw goes below 1 amp. Reinstall each fuse one at a time,
    and look for 1 or 2 amp gain in draw. Concentrate on the one circuit that
    has a big draw. You should not have more than 3/4 amp draw.

    After market radios are a big problem, along with add on stereo equip.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    It is not hard. Behind the fog light is a light socket, that you twist 1/4 turn,
    and it will come out. Get new light at auto-zone etc., for few $$ and put
    back in. Easy.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    I also have had some weird electrical issues with GM side post batteries.

    I decided to replace these batteries every 2 1/2 years, and no problems
    ever. I have 2 subs, and a tahoe, and changed batteries on both subs,
    no problems. Tahoe is close to 2 1/2 years, so a new battery is on the

    Cheap insurance for having no problems.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    Had the same thing done on an 03 tahoe. There is really no other way they
    can fix this without replacing the whole seat covering.

    What I did do, was take a small knife, and carefully cut the tab off right at
    the leather fabric. If I did not show this to anyone, they would never notice
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    Anything over $13,500 off is a good deal. The 2k mileage is good also for
    a demo.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    Make sure your autolamp optical sensor is clean, and not covered with
    any objects. After that, I would check to make sure sensor is ok, then
    check wiring connections.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    I would suspect a pulley bearing, such as the belt tensioner.
  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    Bad switch, or bad wiper pulse board.
  • 2002 Sub, the only time the heater puts out hot air is when the temperature control is turned all the way to the right past the 82/full heat click. When the nob is turned back to a lower temperature the hot air stops. The heater is working, it puts out plenty of hot air on the one setting. Any ideas?
  • Yes. The virbration/droning goes away once I accelerate and under normal driving conditions. It's when I'm sitting at a light, in the driveway or just idling.
  • My 2004 suburban does the exact same thing. I have taken it to the dealership 3 times now. They say they can't find what wrong with it and it will never make the sound when they are driving it. Turn off the air conditioner and see if it stops. That usually works. Also beware, today my Suburban broke down in the middle of the road and they think the fuel pump went out. It just stalled in the middle of the road. They said sometimes when the gas gets low the fuel pump heats up and just breaks. So two of my children and myself had to get towed and ride with the wrecker to the dealership. (my fourth time there for repairs in a year).
  • I have a 2002 Suburban with exactly the same problem. I have a new fuel pump, new fuel filter & new battery. My mechanic can replicate the problem but cannot find the cause. He has had my Suburban for 2 weeks and gave up. He recommended I bring it into the dealer. I live in New Orleans so no telling how long that will take under the current conditions. Have you found a fix for yours yet? Any advice?
  • matto1matto1 Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2004 GMC yukon. The service manager initially thought it was the alingnment. He called back saying the camber/casters were out of ajustment. I asked if they would be replacing the tires. He said "NO" We don't have balding, just wear to the inside and this would not be covered especially with 23,000 miles on them. I asked how would these be out of alingment and he hoped it was just from the factory. I hope I will not be dealing with this again. Also no alingment or balancing/rotating of tires. Manager said it is not covered. Got to love it.
    Hope this gives you some info.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Just one thing perhaps worth to check.

    I have a '04 Tahoe and had a lot of trouble with bad gas mileage and while trouble shooting the issue I found one very strange thing. The MAP sensor connection was bad and if I just touched the wire harness while engine was idling the engine shut off. Now that is understandable for bad connection but what is not is that it did NOT set a code in the computer.

    To rule out the MAP sensor I think you can drive your vehicle without it. If you just disconnect the wire harness from the sensor I think you can operate the vehicle almost as normal. You would have slightly worse gas mileage as the computer goes to operate in a pre-programmed mode due to missing MAP sensor. If your vehicle would not shut off with MAP disconnected you might have found your problem.

    Pulling the wire harness will set the code in computer but if you have a bad connection with the signal wire alone there will be no code. That was the problem in mine. Signal wire is the middle one in my Tahoe, which I believe is the case in your vehicle too.

    The contacts in the harness were really loose and I replaced them myself. The dealer gave me the new contacts but would not do the job.

    This problem can be very difficult to find as there is no code left in computer.

    You say your mechanic can replicate the problem. How does he do that?

  • nrsmdnrsmd Posts: 4
    Suburban 1999 1500 LT

    Engine turns and catches, but cuts off immediately (within seconds).

    Any ideas or things to check?

    I can check OCD codes but is that going to be helpful?

  • I absolutely hate ABS brakes, on my 1997 GMC Suburban, especially in the winter months. They are like having no pedal at all. A skid is much easier to handle that almost driving through what ever it is that you are going to hit. Recently, the ABS has been going off just before a complete hault, also in reverse. They just started growling ar me going around tight corners also.
    Will the problem show up on cumputer diagnostics?
    I would rather disable the ABS, does anyone know how? At least it would be safer in the snow.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I'm not sure if I understood your message correctly but ABS going OFF just before complete stop in my understanding is what the system is designed to do. Otherwise you could not make a complete stop at all.

    Hoe are your tires? Are they good enough for any grip on snow. I understand your "like no pedal at all" feeling comes when you are driving on snow or ice.

    If your brakes stop the vehicle on dry pavement ok and then you have an issue on snow it sounds like you just don't have enough grip on snowy road to feel any braking forces. Remember ABS is designed to keep wheels from lock-up and the maximum braking force you can feel is determined by the grip of the tires on the road.

    Of course you could have a problem in the ABS system and I'm not sure if it sets a code either.

    Disabling the system does not sound good idea at all. What about having it serviced and fixed if found defective. Your large vehicle would handle better at heavy braking incidences.

  • This problem is happening on dry pavement. I apply force to the pedal when I am going into a corner I can hear the ABS motor groaning, and at the same time I start to loose pedal. The pedal gets pretty spongy, at the same time the front brakes let up like they are disengaging. This also happen near the completion of a stop, at about 4 MPH or less the same occurence takes place. The reservoir is full of fluid. I hooked the computer up this morning, but out machine does not go so far as ABS systems in diagnostics.

    We will begin to get snow and ice in December. I have been brought up in the towing business, so I can drive in anything. My statement about Hating ABS in the winter is true. When there is snow and ice I can no longer sense the amount of grip my tires are producing on the surface. I can't stop the damn thing the way I am use to. It is tragic that things have come to this, when experienced drivers no longer have total control of their wheels.

    My son had ABS problems with his Cavalier, all we did was unplug the wires at the ABS and he had great brakes that were totally controlable.

    I am totally comfortable with my driving ability and I would love to be able to disable the ABS but this system may not allow it. Do you know the way?

    By the way, thank you for response to my problem, I greatly appreciate your time and effort.
  • Thanks for your response. My mechanic replicated the problem by letting it sit idling for about 2 hours then driving it. Once it started to act up, it did so constantly until they shut it down. A computer check said all eight cylinders were misfiring but did not show cause. It doesn't seem to show up driving short distances. When I drive for over an hour or for about 30 minutes in bumper to bumper traffic, it starts to show up. I dropped it off at the dealership over the weekend but they wont be able to look at it until Tues or Wed. Things are way backed up in New Orleans. When my mechanic put in a new battery, it ran fine for about 2 weeks before the next incident. Apparently draining batteries, engine shutdowns, and weird electrical events are common in suburbans but I have not heard a definitive cause yet. I added nothing to the suburban since it was purchased. The only thing I use is a GPS which I unplug every time I stop the vehicle. :confuse:
  • hey everyone (i know this is kinda off topic)
    My dad and I just bought a lot of sound equipment for out boat but since this is the off season we wanted to keep it in our suburban. we dont want to replace the factory head to have pre-amp signals since it ties into the dvd and steering wheel controls. we are going to run the signals into the powered signal option on our amp and get the signal from the small stock sub. the problem: we dont know which wire sends the sub signal without pulling out the whole console on the sub. If anyone knows the pinout diagram or know a website i would greatly appreciate the help. its so hard to find the little information you need.
    thanks justin
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,721
    That's because GM used half assed ABS systems in many vehicles during the 90s. Many were a single or two channel setup. Meaning if one wheel started to lock up, all 4 wheels would be effected when trying to get the wheel that's locking to gain traction. I hope by now, they are using a 4 channel system, where each brake can be controlled independently. With the 3 and 4 channel setups, you'll rarely get the ABS activating while breaking into a corner and in the snow they work much better.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Based on your comments it seems like your problem is heavily temperature related, i.e. when the mechanic lets it idle for 2 hours to heat up or when you drive it long enough.

    Then you get misfire in all cylinders, which talks about a serious timing problem.

    Have your mechanic to change the crank shaft position sensor. It is a $63 + tax part. I changed mine in my Tahoe and it seemed to be of some help for my issues at the time. This sensor is mounted in the side of the engine and will get hot when engine oil heats up since the oil is slung on the sensor by the wheel it reads.

    This sensor really changes temperature big time and can start act up when hot.

    Sensor is located behind starter motor so it takes a little bit work to get to it as the starter must be removed first. Your mechanic should have no problem to get there though.

    After sensor change you might get a check engine light and a code indicating misfire. If this happens you need to have the sensor re-learned by the computer in your truck, which procedure is available only at the dealer service ($75 or so) I believe.

    The other sensors that have to do with engine timing are MAP sensor, cam shaft position sensor and knok sensors. MAP sensor should not be temperature sensitive that bad but the cam shaft position sensor probably is just like crank shaft position sensor is. In my truck this sensor is a little bit harder to get to as it is located on top back part of the engine. Knock sensors are located between intake manifold and engine top so to get to these the manifold has to be removed. Your engine probably has them in same locations.

    I would start with the crank shaft position sensor for eliminating your problem.

  • The title says it all, does anyone have any suggestions? Can a battery suddenly die with no warning? We were loading up the kids last night to go trick or treating and the lights were on in the vehicle, when I turned the ignition switch, the whole car went dead. I went out there this morning, and the remote for the door locks won't even work!
  • arriearrie Posts: 312

    Battery can short out and die just like that.

    Check your battery terminals though. As it happened when you tried to start it it could have burned a cable or otherwise have a bad connection.

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