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Chevy Suburban



  • I have a 1997 Chevy Suburban and do all the routine maintenance....the SES light is there a way to reset that?......

    Any help would be great......
  • starts fine but i have to continue pumping the throttle to keep it running. has plenty of fuel to the tbi carb. i rebuilt the fuel press. regulator but no help. i've been told that it could be catylitic converter midas guy says no. any ideas???
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I don't know about your engine's carburetor but I guess that it has an 'idle air valve' built into it. Idle air valve does as it's name says. It controls the amount of air engine gets when idling. If this valve fails and stays close your engine does not run unless you keep throttle open by yourself.

    Before idle air valves came in use there used to be an adjustable stop screw for throttle, which could be adjusted for idle speed. This is still in use in all kinds of small engines.

    Most car engines have had idle air valves for long time. For example my '95 Dodge Pick-up truck has one and I experienced exactly the same problem you described when the idle air valve failed.

  • nrsmdnrsmd Posts: 4

    Even the Chevy dealer can't give me the answer.

    While installing a brake controller for my RV, I LOST the nut that goes to the fuse box inside the engine compartment, and can't find a replacement.

    On the fuse box in the engine compartment, (facing the steering wheel), there are two power poles standing straight up and a bolt that shoots out to the fender (parallel to the ground) where lots of red wires are connected. The nut that tightens on to that bolt that shoots out from the fuse box toward the fender (parallel to the ground) got lost, and the Chevy dealer has no idea what size or replacement I would get.

    Right now, I have the cables (which when not connected the car will not start) pressed against the bolt, so the car works, but this is dangerous -- if the connection comes loose the car will die!

    All I need is the actual size of the nut that turns on to this bolt and perhaps where I can find it.

    It is uncanny that a single 1 penny nut is causing so much problem!

    Thanks in advance.

  • bc13bc13 Posts: 32
    Hi, just trying to find out if anyone has come across the issue before. Seem to have a short in the system. The fuse for my horn/alarm keeps blowing out. Works for awhile after i replace it and then the fuse burns out again. Local mechanic said it needed a new horn assembly (?) at a cost of $ 2-300. was hoping it would be something much cheaper. appreciate any thoughts/help. thanks.
  • I just purchased a 2005 suburban with 9000 miles on it. Now I keep getting messages from the dealer that it is due for scheduled maintenance or it will void my warranty. I haven't put 3000 miles on it since purchase and I don't see anywhere in the owners manual about the maintenace being scheduled on a mileage basis.. It says that the computer will tell me when these services are due. Can anyone tell me what Maintenace 1 and Maintenance 2 are and do I have to go to the dealer to get them done? Is there a maintenance schedule based on mileage or time? Thanks, Fred z
  • My 2005 suburban makes a noise when I park it. It sounds like the muffler or cadelic converter is to hot and the metal is cooling down. Is this normal?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Maintenance I and II are explained at the GM owner's center online. You have to register first and then you can see everything. It's basically just a full service oil change and tire rotation.

    Maintenance I includes:
    Cange engine oil and filter. Reset oil life system.
    Lubricate chassis components.
    Visually check for any leaks or damage.
    Inspect brake system.
    Check engine coolant and windshield washer fluid levels and add fluid as needed.
    Rotate tires and check inflation pressures and wear.

    Maintenance II (for "heavy use") adds the following:
    Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace filter.
    Inspect suspension and steering components.
    Inspect engine cooling system.
    Inspect wiper blades.
    Inspect restraint system components.
    Lubricate body components.
    Check transmission fluid level and add fluid as needed.
  • recieved a recall for my 2001 suburban stating that the fuel pump wires may overheat resulting in abrupt stall,or a fuel leak resulting in fire, both not pleasent. I brought the car to my local dealer and one month later have not had it fixed ,they say that they cannot get the needed parts. Recently a suburban stalled on the interstate and was hit from behind resuting in death, the same problem I don't know but I don't want to find out. Why issue a recall if parts are not available and the dealer is impotent to correct the matter. I called the Chevy Customer assistance center listed on the recall and they were useless. My wife is scared to drive it and I can't blame her after reading the possible adverse events Any ideas, help? If I die as a result of a failure to correct a defect in a timely manner after my efforts is there legal recourse,not for me I won't be around, but for my cousin Vinny the lawyer?
  • What about trying a Junk Yard?
  • I have a 2000 and just got the recall taken care of two weeks ago Thurs. I find it hard to believe an authorized dealer cannot get the parts.... May want to try a different dealer.
  • Disconnect the battery cable for 5 minutes and then rehook it up. This clears the computer and resets the SES light. Good Luck!
  • OK I think I have this one licked... To get the whole gist of my draining battery delema start reading at 263 and follow the links.

    It seems that the VIU (Vehicle Interface Unit or On Star) was the problem. The VIU and a VIC they take care of GPS, Cellular service and On Star. There are 2 cables that can be disconnected rather easily and these boxes are hooked thru the radio. I unplugged the 2 plugs and everything worked great (including my radio) for over 2 weeks. :shades: I took it to the dealer and they weren't sure if it was the VIU or the VIC but called on star and were told that it was commonly the VIU that took the juice out of the battery. Something about the unit wouldn't go to sleep and this was like leaving your lights on.

    The unit cost is about $500 and replacement is a few $100 more, however, it appears that there was a recall on these boxes and I got it replaced for free. (I was told that it was replaced May 19 of this year by the previous owner. But the one I got was a defect.) So far the vehicle has ran for 1 1/2 weeks without a jump start and I still have all the electronics hooked up.

    One thing that I am a little curious about.. I called On Star to see what color the light next to my button was supposed to be. They told me Green is good and red is bad. Both my dad and father in law have green lights on there's and they are not subscribers to On Star currently. On Star told me to take it to the dealer and they could repair it. When I told this to the dealer they said that the light would stay red until I activated On Star because they have to "Sync" up their stuff with my Suburban. Does anyone else out there have a red light on theres? When I picked it up from the dealership, the light was green and then went red, plus once on initial startup, I saw the light go green for a few minutes. It's kind of strange, but what the heck, it runs!
  • I just posted my results on message 481. You are right there are 4 items on the Radio Circuit. There are quick connectors to "kill" the power to all of them. I have a schematic for a 2000 or I can let you know where the connectors are if you'd like. Good Luck! It only took me 5 months to T-Shoot mine, hopefully you won't have that long of trouble shooting time.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,721
    I had the recall performed on my '00 Suburban a few weeks ago. When I received the letter from GM stating to call a local dealer to have the service performed, I called my local dealer and they were ready the next day.

    I went ahead and "bit the bullet" and had a new fuel pump installed while they had the fuel tank lowered for the replacement wiring harness (they charged me $20 labor + the fuel pump, which was like $480, ouch). My fuel pump had been getting loud and bought some peace of mind.
  • I have a 2000 burber, with the same problem. Thought about a heater valve in the engine compartment being stuck open, but I can't find such a valve exists at Napa Online, etc. So, if it doesn't exist that can't be the problem UNLESS it's a dealer-only part.
  • We Had the same problem . The 2001 Sub bought it from my brother he never had a problem it had 3 yrs ext warranty. It died on us probably 6-10 times & got to where it wouldnt start at times ,once before I went to trade it in because we were scared it was going to cause a accident and I didn't want to be the one who sold it. Anyhow I went rounds with chevy/gm and we got a 1000 dollar loyalty cert to use on a new car when the dust settled . Still think we got screwed and to top it off we bought a denali to replace it with.... Let me know what happens. Also Gm knew about the problem as you say but said the parts weren't available for the recall until the end of the year.
  • I am currently restoring my 1983 GMC Suburban and I'm wondering how many miles other people have gotten on them so I can see if it's worth it. Restoring it means replacing two doors, the rear interior, air conditioning, and the radio.
  • i had a chevy van that did the same thing and after replacing almost all the underhood electronics, it turned out to be the ignition switch itself. cheap part, expensive to find. hope that works for you. :)
  • nrsmdnrsmd Posts: 4
    Found one. Its a 6 mm nut thats on an American SUV!
  • Hi,
    I'm reposting this tip I found a while back on one of these boards. I just did it and it was extremely easy. The part number has changed. I used part number 15166054 and I have a 2002 Chevy Suburban with neutral interior.


    TIP: for those of you with Yukon XLs, Subs and Denali XLs, the third row seat
    overhead light does not have on/off reading light switches. This can be easily
    upgraded by ordering the second row light with switches from


    The part #s are 15765710 for the Tan interior, 15044370 for Shale and 15765711
    for Pewter. The light runs about $21.00 plus shipping.

    To install, turn off the overhead dome lamps at the dash. The old lamp is
    easily removed by using a small screwdriver to open the lens of the existing
    lamp (look for the small notch to pry the lens open). This will enable the
    light to simply be pulled down from the ceiling. Disconnect the wire plug from
    the old lamp.

    Next take a pair of strong scissors and simply cut the ceiling along the lines
    impressed into the ceiling by the original lamp (the old lamp is smaller than
    the new lamp). Plug the wire connector into the new lamp and test the lamp
    briefly by turning on the overhead lamp switch at the dash. Reinsert the new
    lamp into the larger opening with the lens open. Once the lens has been closed,
    the new lamp with switches will be locked into place.

    Its an inexpensive upgrade that will enable your third row passengers to do
    some reading or coloring on any long trips at night. Unfortunately, you can't
    perform the same upgrade on the cargo area lamp unless you run a ground wire
    from the third row lamp and change the wire connector to incorporate this
    extra ground wire.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    What is the "Air cleaner, high capacity" that is referred to as part of the towing prep package? Does that mean it comes with a better quality air filter than standard, or a bigger size? I am thinking of getting a K&N filter, or maybe the whole filtercharger kit, but if it is not necessary because of something that came with the towing package, I'll skip it.
  • Bizzare doings in my 2001 Sub.
    Dies immediately after starting unless you keep throttle open. Then it flashes alternately the ABS lite and the Parking brake lite. All this stops after about 5 minutes.
    Replaced the battery, no effect.
  • I have a 99 suburban. The headlights on DIM do not work. Bright is ok and the DAYLIGHTS (DIM) work both with the switch in the off postion and parking light position. When i turn the switch to headlights the day lights ( dims) go out. pull the dimmer switch to brights and the bright lights com on. I replaced the dimmer switch. NO change. anyone have an idea.
  • there's only 1 way to find out !
  • abobabob Posts: 1
    i started my car let it idle about 60 seconds and it died i noticed that the fuel pump wasn't running for it has always been very noisy sence new in 1999 second pump. started to trouble shoot
    1.turned on key could hear fuel relay klick afteer a couple seconds
    2. turned off key agen the relay klicked after a few seconds out fluke and found power always on to the of fuel relay
    4. agen turned on key and noticed power to the common terminal of the fuel relay (grey wire)but no sound from the fuel pump
    5.put 12v+ to grey wire no sound
    6. checked continuity grey wire to ground found it to be open

    question is there anything between the relay, pump and ground but wire and conectors?
  • otis5otis5 Posts: 1
    We just had our first snow on December 8. I left school and went to lock in the 4WD on my Suburban and it would not engage. I have a 1995 and the shift lever is located on the floor. I have heard that there is a TSB on the actuator and other switch down on the front hub. Any one with this problem or knowledge on the situation?
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I currently own a 96 burb 2500 4x4 with 7.4l engine and 3.73 gears, 99,000 mi.
    I use this vehicle for my daily driver although that's minimal (I ride the bus to work). In the summer I tow my 5500-6000 lb boat to the lakes.
    I am happy with the overall performance of the the vehicle while towing, but not real happy with mileage, I get about 8 mpg while towing, 65+ mph in OD. Not towing I get 10-11 around town, and 12-13 on the road.

    I am considering moving up to a newer burb, 2004 or so.
    My question is for owners out there: How do your newer burbs perform while towing and daily driving with similar weight tow behinds???
    I am concerned about dropping down to a 1500 4x4 due to coil spring rear susp., smaller rear brakes, and weaker tranny. Thoughts from 1500 owners appreciated.
    For 2500 owners, what kind of mileage are you getting with either 6.0l or 8.1L engines in daily driving and towing??
    Thanks for any input. Catam
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,721
    I think it depends on how much you tow your boat. Your concerns regarding a 1/2 ton burb are valid. I've already rebuilt my trans at 48k miles and have had a few suspension repairs as well.

    My boat weighs between 4500-5000lbs. I have a 2000 Suburban with 5.3 w/ 3.73 gears. I get 11-12mpg towing in 3rd since the 5.3 doesn't have enough torque to tow 65-70mph in o/d (not that you should tow in o/d w/ the 4l60e trans). Non towing, I generally get 14 around town and 16-17mpg on the highway.

    My boat has a tandem axle trailer with brakes on one axle and about 350lbs of tonque weight. Even with a weeks worth of gear, a family of four and the boat hitched up, rear sag and braking performance is good enough. Current tahoe/suburbans have 4 wheel disk brakes.

    Since you are most likely happy with the torque of your current big block and unhappy with the fuel economy, you'll have the opposite reaction with a 5.3 powered 1/2 ton. Fuel economy is tolerable, but towing power at reasonable rpm is lacking. The 5.3 needs some revs for power. If I were to go with another 1/2 ton, I'd either get a Suburban with 4.10 gears, or go with a Denali XL with the 6.0L for the extra torque.

    Granted nothing comes for free. Towing performance comes at the expense of fuel economy.

    Hope this helps....
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