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Chevy Suburban



  • Check the recall on your 2001 for a fuel module reservoir assemblies. This can cause stalling and starting problems
  • If your motor will not crank, your problem is one of 2 things.

    Most likely a sticking starter solenoid. Either replace the solenoid on the starter or the starter / solenoid combonation itself.

    The other less likely is the ignition switch.

    Tell you what. If you do not replace a faulty starter soleniod, you may very well be replacing the ignition switch, wiring or connectors along with it.

    I believe the other problems are just a coincedence and require further checking.

  • 1mack1mack Posts: 3
    I have an'04 Burb and had the same problem with steering and replace the junk Firestones with an 8-ply truck tire and it is doing much better.
  • Out of curiosity do either switches work to make the window go up? Drivers side switch or switch at the window? If one switch works and the other doesn't could be loose wire, dirty switch or bad switch. Otherwise if both switches don't work, I would guess bad or burnt out motor. You could wire 12VDC to it directly to check and see if that drives it. Good Luck!
  • Do you remeber the part number for that?
  • I have the same problem with a 2001 Suburban. My lights dim when I am coming to a stop and the truck sometimes stalls. The dealer already changed the alternator and that didn't solve the problem.
  • ced33ced33 Posts: 5
    I had a loose plug at the ignition switch with my 2002 Yukon XL which caused this. Since it sometimes worked when it was jumped, they just kept denying the problem until one day the jump did not work and they realized the ignitition switch harness was loose.
  • ced33ced33 Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 Suburban, and if left undriven for over 18 hours, the battery is drained. Normally I would try to start it, no luck - hook up the portable battery, start it up and off we go. Twice I have hooked up a battery charger prior to trying to start it, and the dome lights and all come on full intensity (door open) and then go dim and I hear a clicking noise behind the dashboard, the lights flicker very dimly, and the the charger cannot charge the battery. I suspect that this is the gremlin I am looking for, but if I turn the ignition key and reset the charger - the battery charges. It is my wife's truck, and she is gone his weekend so I am planning to create the problem and not mess with the ignition until after I find what the truck is trying to do (I think turning the ignition switch resets whatever my problem is) but I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem or can give me things to look at. It is an LT, with Onstar. I have the bi-fuel engine.

    The 18 hours is a rough estimate, but during the week the truck does not sit for longer than 18 hours and the truck always starts. It happened at 20 hours last weekend.

    The noise from behind the dash is similiar to trying to start a Suburban with a dead battery - where you get the tap-tap-tap-tap noise from the under the hood, but this is much softer and based on the lights it is taking a lot of power. When I turn the ignition key, the dash gauges seem to go through a resent and I the radio makes noise (disc in the cd changer moving around is what it sounds like).

    I am guessing ignition switch, but I have heard about Onstar doing odd things also.

    Any direction would be greatly appreciated.
  • 1999 Chevy Suburban...Whenever I climb a good sized hill or grade, the suburban looses power, bucks and the Engine Service light comes on flashing for a few seconds then stays on steady. It will stay on steady for a few hours, maybe a day or so, then suddenly extinguish. Took it to a dealer and they tuned up the car, changed the plugs and wires, etc. This however has not solved the problem. They suggest that it is from carbon build up in the valves. However, since then (and before) the car has not gotten better or worse. It only happens on hiils. (Load on the suburban). Could it be a bad Catalytic Converter?


  • Did you ever solve the steering problem. I have a similar issue and have had allignments done and still not resolution. With steering in center and moving forward, any slight touch right, and the steering jerks a few degrees like you need to "HOLD ON". However, it is slight in distance, but dramatic on the move. Someone suggested I get online to see if maybe it could be a pressure switch in the power steering.
  • did you ever get a response to your proble with the security light?

    Mine has been coming off and on for over two years now. I've not had any problems starting it, but the dealer replaced the wiring harness in the steering column ($600)and like that helped. :mad:
  • I'm also in the KC area and needed 5 seats. I bought one with a bench seat in the middle. I have 3 kids in that row and 2 in the back. I don't like that they don't have a shoulder belt, either.
  • My battery on my 2003 just died last summer. Since it was still under warranty they replaced it. I was told it was a bad cell in the battery,
  • diver2diver2 Posts: 1
    I have similar problem and am wondering if you've resolved and if so how? Mine is a 2003 with 50,000 and this just started. My problem is after parking then restarting on two occasions it has shifted itself into 4low. Dealer reloaded some software after the first occurance. Did you get resolution?
  • akburbakburb Posts: 3
    I have the dreaded coolant leak. I have it all apart and am ready to put it back together. How tight do I torque the intake bolts and plenum bolts. Since I have the top end all apart are there any things I should be cleaning or replacing at this time? e.g. The fuel injectors - Is there a way to clean them? In my gasket kit I had two rubber o-rings for the fuel lines but I'm not sure where they go.
  • I have a 2000 Suburban with the 5.3 engine with 76000 miles. When I start it in the cold weather, It sounds like my valves are sticking for a few minutes. Is this typical? Any advice?

  • My 2003 with <28K is in the shop again for the week. My rear wiper stopped spewing washer fluid again. This was fixed last May with only 22K on the car. Now it has happened again. Anybody else?

    My speedometer also decided it preferred to be 30mph higher than it should be. The needle wouldn't go below 30 at rest and treated 30 as zero. The mechanic acted like this was a normal problem. Has anyone had this problem?

    I love the Burb overall. I have 5 kids so I need something big, but I'm worried about what will happen in Oct when my warranty expires.
  • I have an '01 with a 5.3. I was told this was carbon build up. I was given a factory memo, explaining what happens, also that this has no effect on the engine wear. Check with your local Chevy service center, and I'm sure they can give you the info.
  • I have had 2 suburbans the most recent a 1997 and it had the same problem with steering. Took it it to the dealership 2 times during the warranty period. They said they tightened a gear in the steering box. Continued having problems. About 1.5 years ago I moved and decided to take it to another dealer (long after warranty)and at my cost now. They replaced a steering sensor and have not had a problem since. They also told me the steering box is sealed,can't be adjusted and that many dealerships didn't know how to solve the problem. Check it out...good luck!
  • :confuse: Passenger seatbelt is a nightmare. It seems to be wound to tight. Like a windowshade thats to tight. It will not unwind with out catching. And once it clicks in don't breath too deep. Dealer replaced it once under warranty and it wasn't as bad. Now you have to have the car in park, no key in the ignition and it might give you enough strap to click in. Dealer claimed its part of Federal Regulations that require "extra tension" due to airbag deployment. Sounds like a bag of hooey.

    My wife drives this 90% of the time with no one in the passenger seat.
    Any feedback would be great.
  • This message is in regards to message #334 by Bradleyd. I am having the same weird electrical problem on my 99 Suburban. The Service engine soon light comes on as well as the check guages. When this happens, the tachometer and speedometer stop working and the shift lights go out. I have a code reader and reset the codes after writing them down and it ran flawlessly for a little while but the problem came back. The codes are for the TCC solenoid switch, but I am almost certain it's just something electrical. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am not too excited about giving a mechanic money when I am pretty sure they won't look for the right thing. So if Bradleyd is out there and got his fixed, I would love to hear from him. Or anyone else for that matter who has any ideas.
  • After researching the internet, does anyone know of or recommend which is the best Motion Sensor for backing up that can be installed into the rear bumper? Thanks!
  • saszsasz Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 suburban and in the past month 3 of my power window motors have gone. At a tune of $350 that is a lot of money. Does anyone know how to replace this? I would like to do it myself...


  • mfffsrmfffsr Posts: 1
    I have a 93 with the electronic controls and yesterday the heater went completely off line. I have check the fuses and everything is OK. The whole control for the heater/ac has gone dark and nothing works. Any ideas on what it might be? a inline fuse or something not shown in the owners manual?
  • My sister has a 96 Suburban that is giving her problems with the brakes. It doesn't happen all the time, and it happens when she's driving slow or fast, but when she comes to a stop the car skips / hops / juts - whatever you want to call it. Almost like the brakes are locking.

    She had the ABS sensor replaced twice in one month. She took it to my mechanic and he said it's not that. He told her since she's having so much trouble to take it to the dealer. Before she spends the money on that does anyone have any insight on what could be the problem.


  • I am in the process of replacing my pitman arm on a 2001 suburban. I have the end of the arm that attaches to the steering geer off, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get my pitman arm puller on the steering box end. I'm coming to the conclusion that the steering box has to come out... I just don't want to admit that the Chevy engineers were that idiotic... anyone else do this job? Pointers for getting the arm off the steering box?
  • Own a 2001 Chev Suburban 1500 with 5.3 L engine. The problem is this model suburban has two belts under the hood. One is the long serpentine belt that drives everything but the A/C. The second is the smaller A/C belt that goes from the crank pulley to the A/C compressor and has its own idler pulley / tensioner. The A/C belt area is the problem. I have an intermittent issue when under acceleration the A/C idler pulley is moved by the A/C belt to its maximum position and hits and rubs on the metal transmission cooler lines running from the transmission to the radiator. Makes a hellish grinding noise. Obliviously, there is something causing extra tension on the A/C belt. When it starts rubbing, turning off the A/C stops the issue.

    I took the truck to Chev Dealer and they replaced the belt, A/C Compressor and the idler pulley / tensioner. Seem to correct the problem for about 24 hours and then it returned. Still an intermittent issue. I took the truck back to the dealership and after a long diagnostic session all pressures checked out normally and they could not duplicate the problem. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
  • I just bought a 95 Suburban, 3/4 ton, 350 auto, 63000 miles.
    I plan to tow a trailer 7500 pounds total weight. I know this isn't a stump puller and I figure I'll have to take it easy.
    What trans is in this vehicle?
    Can I tow with it?
    Are there any suspension tricks to beef up the rear suspension?
    Any advise greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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