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Check every hose connection between the HFM and the cylinder head. The ECU bases its computations on the air flow as measured by the HFM. Any unmetered air downstream from the HFM throws off the computations.
But if it is actually knocking, then the end is near, yes, unless you are just talking about a faint "piston slap" which could linger on for a while longer. Also wrist pin noises sound worse than they might be....but really, any knocking sound is not a good sign for the future----so plan for the worst.
I'm not really sure how to describe the sound, but it is pretty loud. From what I hear about first generation neons I don't really think it's a minor problem. I also don't expect much from a car with so many miles on it.
As far as TPS the mechanic showed me that when he presses the gas the voltage climbs up on the TPS and therefore he concluded that the sensor itself is fine...
You mentioned air leaks previously, how exactly do you find them. I don't see any with naked eye but may be I should listen to them or spray something on the hoses to see? Thanks
I'd use the procedure given in the Nissan shop manual.
You mentioned air leaks previously, how exactly do you find them.
Here's a good desciption of the procedure.
I'm not sure but I don't think cylinder leakdown is a good test for bad valve stem seals---you can test that easily on a road test....
I've tested this while being on the highway. At some point, it started screeching while I was driving. What I did is I turned off my plug-in heater (through the lighter), and turned down my fans a notch and the screeching stopped right away.
Im wondering if my alternator could be starting to break down and if I should replace it. It seems that it only does this noise when I use a lot of electricity.
Thanks for the help!
P.S Feel free to email your answer ;D
I will go to AutoZone to look at their gasket sets but let me know if this sounds strange to you...
Thanks
Recently in January my Maxima stalled and was towed to the nearest dealership they ran the diagnostic and then replaced the MAF then the IACV...the car after that stalled once but I was able to drive it. Yesterday the check engine light came on again .I got a preliminary diagnositc code from Autozone Idle control system..and then the car stalled again.. Some mechanic were in the parking lot of Autozone and they raised the idle higher . The car is running didn't stall after that but the check engine sign is still on...Please help ....I been back and forth with the dealer who is not very helpful...and costing me $$$ what do u think is wrong
What's interesting is this:
Yesterday when I could not get the engine started, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and then I was able to start the engine without the fuse on. Then I turned the engine off and put back the fuse, I tried to start the engine and it actualy started! I tried the same thing today and it worked too.
I could not figure out why it does this but I am sure this would mean something to a good mechanic or DIY expert. Could you please help to explain this and provide advise how to fix the issue?
After the IACV and ECU was replaced the car stalled again less than 50 miles brought it back to the dealer and the same code P0505 read..again the IACV was ordered and replaced and the dealership states everything is okay again...After I drive another about 50-70 miles the check engine sign lights up and the car stalls again this time I had the car towed and the dealership after checking wire etc.. said they have to replace both the IACV and ECU at the same time....so now this is the third IACV and 2nd ECU.
I specifically asked them to please make sure thats what is I don't want to put my self in danger and the car stall in the middle of the highway. So again they reassure me and tell me they are very confident that everything is fine. Now another 3 days pass again my car stalls this time the check engine sign did not go on and again I had the car towed to the dealership. I paid for the tow they did not even offer a tow....GOt to the dealer and the service manager gets in the car after its taken off the tow truck and runs into the same problem wher the car turns on but it will not drive...he then presses on the gas with real force 2 -3 x and you can see smoke from the muffler smelling like gas..and he was able to drive the car..the tech looked at it and the code that come now is knock sensor and NAF ( it the keys) , but they said they erased those codes and the problem was the TPS which needed to be readjusted....again the car was tested with a road test and again the dealership states everything is okay. The car drove may be for about three days and stalled out again on me...now this time I used the technique that the service manager used by applying the gas and the car was driveable again for another three days...since the last visit to the dealer ship the car stalled about 5-7 times and each time I used the same technique....I found another mechanic that was referred to me..and he encountered the stalling problem so after he evaluated the car he said it was the Temperature sensor which was changed for $30. this was about a week ago...Now the car has not stalled ...the car drove smooth for the first couple of day but when it picks up speed the idle goes very high to about 2 - 3RPM before the car picks up speed. and the first few minutes into driving when the car is driven there is knocking noise that is heard...that was present before but its getting louder....
PLEASE HELP I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO>>>>THE car was brought brand new and is only 65000 miles. Ive taken it to 3 dealerships and 2 mechanics outside.
It all started with a leaking muffler. The day all the problems started, the seam at the muffler flange broke. I was on the highway when it broke so nothing happened until I went to exit the highway. When I let off the throttle the engine shut off. I couldn't start it for the life of me. It would immediately shut off after turning over. I noticed that when I held the gas down the car would start. Just to get the car home I turned up the idle stop and brought it home to troubleshoot.
The next day after the car was warmed up I moved the idle stop back down and the car stayed on. I replaced the muffler and the car seemed to be fine. One the car cooled down I had the same issue. I only have to hold the throttle opne for about 30 seconds and gently release the gas and it will stay running. I noticed that the higher idle at cold temps never occur. The idle goes straight to warm idle 700-800 RPM's. I also never got any engine lights.
So far I've removed and cleaned the intake, IACV, MAF, throttle body and I find nothing but normal wear. I also pulled one plug at a time while cranking the engine to check if I had a leaky injector but I had no luck. I putt he scanner on it and the temp reads correctly and the throttle position checks out ok too. Ive got no vacuum leaks or engine codes. Once the car warms up, it starts fine, and after it sits for about 2-3 hours it wont start. I feel like im chasing a ghost here....
Anyone had any luck??
Thanks
Thanks
RS
I've checked the resistance on the coolant temp and air temp sensors both hot and cold and the reading are close to what the maintenance manual says.
Any ideas?
joe
joe
If so....move south, we don't have snow here. Or, perhaps you could carry a stick of some sort. Put the window down, lean out the window, and use the stick to push/knock the snow/ice off.