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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions
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Circuit diagram:
http://www.weberchevrolet.com/service/tech/wire1.gif
Troubleshooting guide:
http://www.4x4posi-lok.ca/pdfs/troubleshootguide.pdf
Would check 25A 4x4 fuse first. If this ok, then would suspect TLA (Temperature Linear Actuator); threads into transfer case on passenger side.
I had a 1997 Ext. Cab (GMC) 1500. I had the same problem
you are having and they replaced something called an EVO sensor and it fixed the problem right away. The feeling it gives in the steering is very odd and it is almost like the steering skips. Ask about the EVO sensor/? and see if that can be done to your truck.
-David
Thanks in advance
Sherry
http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/gb0804.pdf
Any clues what I need to check?
It is harder to start in the am before it is driven.
After the vehicle is driven, it may or may not, start right up.
Does this sound like a fuel delivery problem or throttle position?
Have 2005 -3500 auto, same problem..It made this noise (gear) & was checked out before leaving lot. Said they had to reset computer? Still makes this whine & hangs a little in firstgear. Also sound like popcorn popping behind dash...this noise is not always there. I didn't think the 2 problems were connected, but maybe...I'll be taking it in after Christmas. Will update-Bill
Thanks
Brett
There is no acceleration, hardly no brakes, and the engine revs up to 15-1600 rpms and stays there, no rough idle, no low volts.
Funny thing is you can shut the truck off for about 10-15 minutes, restart and it runs fine, talk about felt like a fool after a 75 dollar tow bill and a mechanic looking at me funny and saying there are no codes for anything.
Mechanics suggestion was to clean the throttle body which I myself did, it ran fine until today.
anyone had the same problem?
Next I changed the coil out and no change. I looked at the rotor and the distributor cap and they look fine. I have pulled two spark plugs and neither one show that they are getting any fire. I am really stumped here as to what to look at next. Any suggestions? Thanks
You have no spark correct since you changed the coil
(in cap or seperate)
also...........
Heres my bet..........
Inside the dist. there will be a "ignition module"
It is sorta square flat plastic piece with bent
ends and 4? plugs on it. They have a habit of failing.
Cost about $20 bucks. If they go you will have NO
spark also.
Have a look inside your dist. Or call your local
parts store to see if your year has one..........
Thanks
Bren
I have had this truck for about 4 yrs and it has had this problem about 9 times (turns over great but will not fire) usually after about 3hrs to 3 days it will start and run great. I can't find out what is causing this problem. I have been lucky in that it never quits while running just after sitting a while.
I have done these tests
replaced the icm module,put a pressure gage on the fuel line and I get 60 psi with key on,I have spark at all the plugs, Have sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body while trying to start it.
Thanks for any input Dan
Today I went to start the truck and no dice. All dash lights came on.Wll not turn over or fire.
ANY info is helpful.... Truck is in driveway stranded as I type.
Neighbor had work done even though she did not have the abs activation. Two months later, she now has the issue. Broke something that worked. The dealer had her bring it back in and replaced a sensor. Problem gone.
clunks in transmission ,, yoke replaced,, didn't fix
clunks in drivetrain,,,, they said it was normal (pish posh)
power steering
radio antenna won't stay on tight
radio loses volume, i can turn it down and then try to turn it back up and get no sound
driver and passenger window motors went out
squeaky doors- every bump they squeaked
passenger door speaker quit
speedometer goes crazy- go about 65 on highway and speedometer pegs out @ 120 then stays stuck on 30 when i stop
when i come to a stop sometimes it won't shift down into first gear and trys to take off in second gear
I am now in the process of trying to have general motors buy the truck back,, i'm not paying another penny on it,, not worth the money they ask for. So if they don't buy it back then i guess i'm just gonna take it back to them and do a voluntary repo,, i already bought a new car so the repo won't affect me as far as that goes. I can't sell the truck do to the pay off being more than the truck is worth. GM doing there rebates don't help either as far as value goes. :mad:
Since the repair, I received my recall notice but have yet to bring the truck in. I really doubt that GM will reimburse me for anything but the amount it would cost to complete the procedures in the recall notice.
I also think it stinks that they are not willing to include the sensor and hub assembly in the recall. After all, they function as a unit to send the necessary voltage pulses to the ABS computer. They took the cheap way out on this one.
and part of the pump unit/module and is "supposed"
to be a LIFETIME part on 04? and up fullsize pickups.
Went to Chevy dealer and asked for an explanation why the GMC dealer fixed the issue without having to replace the hub assembly. They did not have a good answer. I may file a formal complaint against that dealer if the ABS issue does not reappear. I felt like I was getting rooked. But your email sounds like the hub assembly can be an issue.
Not sure what luck you will have in getting reimbursed if you did your own work.
Class Action has been opened in Ill. You can call Jim Smith (312) 372-8822 if you want to be added to Class Action.
GM may have to issue a recall on the hub eventually. Don't give up.
Good luck and I will let you know if it resurface,
Norm
-David
http://www.delphi.com/pdf/ppd/chsteer/str_evo.pdf
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/april2005/techtips.cfm
and this at: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3707/is_200504/ai_n13499665
"Steering Shake
IHAVE A 1998 GMC SUBURBAN 1500 4WD with the 5.7-liter engine. I recently put a new set of Goodyear Fortera HL tires on. This is when I noticed a shake in the steering wheel between 30 and 40 MPH. It doesn't happen all the time, but it can occur at any time and at any speed between 30 and 40 MPH.
A mechanic and I ruled out the cause being a bad tire by swapping tires around, using known good tires and wheels. The mechanic subscribes to an online database/chat room for mechanics. After researching this site and asking questions, he narrowed the problem down to two likely causes, the EVO sensor (which I believe goes around the steering column under the dash) and an actuator valve at the power-steering pump that regulates pressure for the speed-sensitive steering. Neither of these corrected the problem. However, when the connector at the pump actuator is disconnected, the problem is gone.
RANDALL COWAN
Middle River, Maryland
The steering-position sensor is used to tell the computer the position of the steering wheel and how fast the driver is turning the wheel. Based on that information and also on vehicle speed, it will vary the steering effort by controlling the bypass orifice to relieve powersteering-pump pressure. There are two likely conditions that will cause the system to malfunction - a lifted suspension or oversized tires with extreme rim offsets. Both of these will change the force to the steering gear and cause a hydraulic oscillation. In layman's terms, the steering wheel will shake.
The easiest way to diagnose the problem is to apply the brakes on dry pavement and turn the wheel lock to lock (while the vehicle is stationary). If it takes some strong-arm work to move the steering wheel, then the pump pressure is not high enough. Correct that first and then look at some type of tuned hose that acts as an accumulator to dampen the hydraulic oscillation. A spiral-wound spring inside the pressure hose will help dampen the fluctuation of pressure. You should be able to find a local custom-hose builder to do it. You could also temporarily install stock-type and stock-size tires up front and drive the truck to see if the problem goes away, which would further help you isolate the source of your shaking. - K.F."
You might, just as an experiment as suggested in the above, disconnect the electrical connector at the actuator (rear of the pump) to see if that eliminates the problem . If it does, you won't know if it's the actuator or the EVO sensor, but at least it puts you in the ballpark. Let us know how it turns out.
-David