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2013 and earlier Nissan Maxima Lease Questions
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Gross Cap Cost is $31,800 with taxes and everything else totals $33,441. At lease end, the purchase price is $19,798.
Can you please provide me with the dealer's name? Thanks.
2009 Maxima S (~$31K Sticker Price)
39 Months
$600 upfront ($355 1st Payment + $245 Motor Vehicles Fees)
$355 a month (includes NJ 7% taxes, Bank Fee, all other fees in the payment)
Termination Fee - $395
What do you guys think? the S was like $382
Please help.
sticker: 37,790
Nissan is providing a special $750 cash incentive on leases of this car in your area (its Northeast region). Make sure to take this cash into account when negotiating your car's selling price.
Car_man
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Car_man
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In any case, the dealer offered me $2300 out of pocket and $369/month for Max with Premium package and rear spoiler. MSRP was 37380, I think the selling price was 33,784 I am not sure if this includes the $750 cash rebate + $500 customer loyalty cash that he said I was entitled to. #s almost add up if i use 32534(33784 - 750- 500) Does this sound like a good deal? Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks all.
Can you please post MF and Residual values for the month of september for 3.5S and 3.5SV for 12k miles/yr and 39 months? Also, can you please post any available incentives for leases? BTW, I am in NY region. Thank you.
Selling price $31,325 (including $750 nissan rebate.incentive)
New York State Tax is 8.775%
Down Payment of $1,150 (1st month + $595 Acquisition Fee + dmv fee)
Monthly payment of $385 (including tax)
Thoughts?
SV with sports package
If I was interested in leasing an '09 Maxima right now, I personally would shoot for a selling price of $500 over dealer invoice. You can look up this car's exact invoice price over in the New Vehicle Pricing section of Edmunds.com.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Car_man
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.00066 mf and 52 % residual value for a 2009 for 36/15. I hope I can get something done soon. Looking at a SV with sports package. 36,200 msrp. Best quote so far was 32,150. But I recently discovered a $1500 loyalty incentive.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Car_man
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In short, lease payments are composed of two main parts, the interest portion and the depreciation portion. Money factors are used to calculate the interest and residual values are used to calculate the depreciation. This oversimplifies things a little bit, but that's the general idea.
The "sweet spot" for leasing probably happens some time in the middle of the model year, early enough that vehicles' residual values have not dropped too low but late enough that the manufacturer has introduced some decent money factor support.
Car_man
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I'm looking at the SV with Premium package ... and looking for both 36 and 39 month lease figures at 12k miles per year. Did they change from September? And, is the $750 still available to be applied to the lease?
Thanks!!!
Spun at least once, all I remember is BANG, breaking glass, and a blur of airbags. It took out both doors and rear fender on the passenger side, rt rear wheel is at a 45 degree angle, lower rocket panel, bumper, trunk and some damage on the "C" panel, rear door about 10 inches into the passenger compartment (Thank God my dog wasn't with me). Even the glove compartment, console and trim are all popped out of whack!
Does anybody think insurance will choose to fix it and NOT total it?
I owe about $31K on lease & residual. Book value maybe $33-34K. Has anyone been in this circumstance? I put down $4,500 (the money factor was .028 when I got it)...Has anyone ever gotten money back on any equity you had in a car?
This could have been a lot worse, but I'm bummed...my car was black with Frost Gray, and 2010 SV Sport only gets black this year (I like lighter interiors), plus I had paid to have painted pinstripes, and aftermarket body side moldings and chrome rocker panel mldg. (Oh well)
The REAL irony...I was coming back from the body shop to get an estimate for a dented left front fender & bumper that was hit in a parking lot ($2,000)..this happened 2 weeks AFTER I had to have the front bumper reinstalled after it got caught on my dog's lead pulling out of the garage (can you say money down the drain?).
It could have been a lot worse, if it was the other side I wouldn't be sitting here telling you about this.
Anybody have advice for dealing with insurance, so amybe I can recoup SOME money? I have NJ Manufacturer's Insurance who is VERY good to work with, and I don't get charged for acccidents or tickets (oh, did I mentioned I got one of those too because I had to cross oncoming traffic to get into the parking lot?
Car_man
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The numbers for an otherwise identical 39 month lease of this car are .00177 and 57%.
Yes, the $750 cash incentive is still available on leases of the 2010 Maxima in select areas (the Northeast and FL).
Car_man
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Looking for same October #'s on a 2009 Maxima SV for both 36 month/12k miles and 39 month/12k miles.
Thanks again!
But I know I'll never really feel safe and secure driving a car that's had it's entire right side, structural beams, possibly chassis & undercarriage, and rear suspension (which I have been told WILL require replacement), brakes, bumper & assembly, not to mention a replaced interior (the headliner (the headlinere on my '05 was replaced 3 times, they could never get rid of the squeek!), all trim, etc have to be replaced because of Air bag deployment, removal of the dash to replace all of the sensors and computer wiring, new seats, motors, etc...I am going to have the $2,000 needed to fix the parking lot hit added to this claim (I'm not paying $500 deductible twice)...it seems the car will be rebuilt backward from its origial assembly (shouldn't the suspension, underbody and chassis be the basis of the platform that the rest of the car is built?
The guy said the only reason the roof didn't buckle was because I had the sunroof open.
I'm sure no matter how good of a job they do, there will be rattle & squeeks...I'll be driving a car whose only original paint will be the left doors, rear quarter panel and roof. Nissan will likely blame anything problems going forward on the accident, so there goes my warranty for the next 3 years.
In looking over my lease, I can't believe how STUPID I was in constructing this lease. I squeezed every penny out of the dealer on the purchase price of the car (actually got it BELOW cost).
But focusing on the monthly payment (I live on a fixed income, so I need to stay within certain limits) and to make affordable payment, my cap cost was $3,400, which included 10,000 miles bought @ .10 figuring I needed 18K per year (My '05 Maxima had 18K, and I was about 4,000 miles over when I turned it in, but at that time I had a job where I travelled 120 miles round-trip 3-4 times a week...that's evaporated thanks to the Sub-prime Mortgage Industry debacle) so I've only put 7,300 on this car in 10 months)...so there's $1,000 wasted, PLUS, in NJ, you pay for a 4 year registration ($250). If I do have to get a new lease, I can't transfer registration, so THAT's Lost. :mad:
My residual is $18,500. BUT, again to keep the payment lower, $1,200 in Sales Tax is lumped into that figure. I wonder if I have any ground on that, since I've only incurred $300 of that, the balance would be a "GIMME" to Nissan - so much for whatever I saved off MSRP or Dealer Invoice.
I guess this is all going to be a BIG Question Mark until I know what my insurance company is going to do. The picture SHOULD be clearer by this time next week.
I HOPE that I'll be checking in with some good news, and even tho' I'll have lost money on this car, I'll be asking for advise on negotiating for a NEW car.
I know I've gained an education the HARD way in the past 3 days.
I'd appreciate your input about how you'd feel about having to keep a car that's been so severely damaged. Wish I could post some pics. :sick:
Take good care!
Will">
1) With all the damage being to the rear of the firewall, and the car being relatively new.... the chance of it being totaled is remote. (It's a $30K+ car, after all).
2) If it isn't totaled, then don't worry about the way you structured the lease..it really doesn't matter. That's more of a lesson for next time. In fact, don't worry about it, even if it is totaled.. what's done is done. The NJ tax in your lease is paid upfront to the state... It's gone.. The sales tax being rolled into your lease payments doesn't affect the residual. That number would be the same, no matter what you put down or what costs you rolled into the CAP cost.
So.. assuming you get the car back...
1) This is one of the major benefits to leasing... At the end of the lease, you turn that car in and walk away. It may be worth $5K-$7K less, because of all the damage, but you won't be out one dime extra.
2) As far as future problems? It's hard to know... We had a leased car that took a major hit at just a year old.. Only one minor problem during the next two years of the lease. And, no driveability issues. Your experience may be different. But, again... if the car is problematic, it isn't forever... It's going back at the end of the lease.
3) If the work is done correctly, then your Nissan dealer isn't likely to blame any problems on the repair work. Your warranty is still intact. It's possible, but not likely you'll have issues with it.
A lot of these issues you can do nothing about now... it's water under the bridge.. Some people would say you were better off buying the car.... that way, you could dump it, if you didn't like the result... But, in that case, you'd be out many, many more thousands of dollars. Getting into a major accident really brings out some of the major financial advantages of leasing..
Good luck!
kyfdx
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another lesson I learned over the years is that you never lease longer than the warranty period for a car because if anything happens to that car after warranty and your leasing your paying to fix or replace stuff on a car you don't or won't ever own yourself; I told the salesman how leasing past the warranty period doesn't make any financial sense and he didn't know what to say; for Nissan you want to lease for 36 months which is what I did; Toyota and Honda understand their warranties and advertise 36 month leases but for some reason Nissan seems to forget their warranties are only for 3yr/36k as well and advertise 39months;
if you get suckered into a 39 month lease with Nissan, not only is your car going to be out of the warranty for 3 months during the lease, you have to pay 4 yrs of motor vehicle fees/registration, as you mentioned; your paying for 9 months of motor vehicle registration you don't need because you won't have the vehicle anymore if you decide to return it; with a 36 month lease you'll only pay 3 yrs of MV registration, etc
anyway, hope everything works out for you; best regards!!
Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp.'s October buy rate lease money factor for a 36 month lease of a 2009 Maxima SV with 12,000 miles per year are .00081 and 53%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 39 month lease are .00081 and 52%.
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09 Maxima S
39 month lease 12k miles per yr
Msrp 31,230
$2,500 (out of pocket) includes taxes and fees(NYS by the way)
$1,000 nissan loyalty
$289 per month
Please me know what you guys think of this deal. Although I have leased one car in the past, I consider myself a newbie. Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
I still don't know what's going to happen with my car...we're closing in on $19,000 in damage, and they're still talking repairs....
Back to the point, I paid all of the sales tax as part of my Cap Cost Reduction. I've made 9 payments on the car. If it is declared a total loss, I will have paid $900 in taxes for unincurred expenses, and I know I won't recoup those funds.
Also if you should move to another state, that state will require whatever THEIR sales tax amount be added to your payment. That happened to me when I was working in CT, and had my mailed forwarded there...I quickly changed it to my parent's address in NJ.
Try to have you monthly statement show your car payment and tax separately. The IRS is going to allow sales tax deductions on major purchases if you itemize.
Back to my situation, Regardless, I'd rather eat the $900 rather than have to keep an essentially destroyed then rebuilt vehicle, that will more than likely me be nothing but a headache going forward. I also suspect that my warranty will be essentially voided since there will be so many replacement parts, and they will lkely blame any problems on the accident.
Also, NMAC, does NOT get involved in any of the claim process or adjustments.
Has anyone ever gotten an independent arbitrator to inspec their vehicles and/or settle the matter.
I'd appreciate any advice you could give me..my head is really spinning over all of this.
Lease is for 39 months
12,000 miles
$1900 down (incl tag and first month)
Also they are paying the last pymt on the car I currently lease now which is $430
pymt will be $445 tax included
Does this sound like a good deal? :confuse:
It was the Body Shop that was pushing to fix the car (hey, how many days do you get a $20K job to do?). When I got in contact with Adjustor and Appraiser and told them that the body shop was pressuring me to authorize them to start work, they cut the cord...they said that their experience with such severely damaged leased vehicles come back to bite them at lease turn in.
Between Insurance Settlement and Gap, I won't be out of pocket, and I should get back the prepaid Sales Tax and Excess Mileage, plus anything else, so I should get over $2,000 back.
So this should be the end to this saga...I'll start a new post about MY....
Here's the deal I got
Maxima SV w. Sport and Monitor Package, Mats & Splash Guards...Sticker $36,980 (Invoice $33,950). Negotiated price to $33,750.
Received $1,750 in rebate money under the "Tent Sale" event...applied to downpayment, also paid $1,750 out of pocket.
$3,500 down, inc. Cap Cost Reduction, 1st month, Acquisition Fee, DMV,
39 Months,
15K Miles (Prepaid 9,750 miles @ .10 - $975. Damned if I paid/damned if I didn't)
$421 plus tax.
Got Crimson Black with Charcoal Leather Great Color, still wish they had Frost Gray)
So in all, I paid $2,750 Less out of pocket, paying about $20 a month for a car that stickered for almost $2,000 more than the 2009 Maxima that I leased less than 10 months prior.
Also, everyone should remember that the IRS is allowing a Sales Tax deduction for the purchase of a new automobile on their 2009 Tax Returns.