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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

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Comments

  • From what you have posted;
    I would first suspect a problem with the crank sensor, or the circutry for the crank sensor. This sensor is used by the PCM to determine cylinder firing. It needs to be checked with a graphing meter like a snap on vantage. If there are any unusual vibrations, it will effect the sensor. If the repair shops you have been taking it too, cant figure it out, try one that is qualified.
  • 1993 2.5 stick service engine soon light comes on when not accelerating for 10 sec.

    Code is 25, ATI/high air. Is there a trouble shooting check list for this problem?
  • toneygtoneyg Posts: 19
    this piticular problem is caused by a faulty ECM. these trucks are notorious for this problem especially the 4.3 engines in the S-10 and S15 in both the trucks,blazers and jimmy's. change this out ant it will most likely solve your problem.
  • bustedbusted Posts: 1
    have a 97 s-10 blazer 4.3, drove truck into 2.5-3ft. of water and stalled. Now it runs rough, sometimes doesn't want to start, without starting fluid. The truck can't get out of its own way. New plugs and wires, temp outside has hardly been above freezing. Does anyone have any suggestion of where to start? After the truck drowned we drained transmission and rear end and added new fluids. Jacked truck up to drain water from exhaust. I know cap and rotor probably need replaced. O2 sensors? CAT? Mass air flow got wet?>? any suggestions of where to begin, to keep from freezing while guessing would be great!!!

    Another problem I have that started even before the water is that on occasion(every 2 months) You will get in the truck to start it and no power anywhere, the key gets locked in the ignition in the on position. Disconnecting the battery for roughly 12hours seems to do the trick. Upon reconnecting the truck acts like nothing happened. What the hell?
  • wondering how hard this tasks is hwo time consuming and if someone who does not mess with trucks day in day out could get it. I have never torn apart a FIE but use to work on Carb Engines. Should i get help with this tasks or tackle it myself????
  • I have 97 4.3l my truck does the same thing with the switch I have no idea what cuases it but i did reliaze that it seems my battery cables will not tight securly and when my truck was doing the switch thing if i move the cables where the battery treminals are then it would free up the key and start.
  • I have a 2002 Sonoma with almost 92,000 miles on it. I just had it tuned up maybe 6 months ago but since Im away at college its hardly been driven. Ever since I got it it feels very sluggish, probably because its a 4 banger but still. I have to have at least a mile or two to pass a car once I get past 50mph. 4th gear just seems to peg out around 4.5 - 5 thousand RPM. I was thinking about a cold air intake or an exhaust but I feel like im trying to make a race horse out of a donkey. Any suggestions?

    P.S. I want to know if there is a way to adjust the position of my gas pedal, its a couple inches lower than my brake and clutch, I just want them to macth up for easier down shifting.
  • I am getting ready to swap out a leaky radiator on my 4.3 2000 S-10. I was just wondering if anyone had any tricks to make it easier to remove the quick connect fittings for the transmission and engine oil coolers.
  • Had the same P0300 Code everyone else did a few months back, swapped, ignition, plugs, wires, coil, crank position sensor, checked fuel preasure, vacum leaks, and finally the fuel injector harness fixed the problem...for now at least.

    Question, truck still seems to hesitate during acceleration a bit but smooths out under hard acceleration. Second, now I have a really bad fuel odor coming through the cab even with windows up and when I get out. Any thoughts out there?

    I don't think I'll ever by a GM product again...at least this make and model as we put men on the moon.... and they can't give us a better product than this?

    Singed,

    I think I'm turning Japanese!
  • i have that same problem.if u figure it out please let me no thanks!!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    If you had just removed and installed the injector harness connectors a few times that would fix the problem. There is a TSB on it, pins get a film on them that needs to be removed. Thank the government for that, won't allow plating any more.
  • Hi,

    New Member hoping you can help :)

    I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma 4x4 SLS Crew Cab. It has the V6 ("W" vin) with Automatic Trans. I have recently begun to hear an oscillating whine, or buzzing sound, that seems to be coming from the distributor. It tends to only last between 15 seconds, to maybe a minute, and then goes away. I've heard it at startup most recently, but did hear it the other day after about 10 miles of city driving. I used a mechanics stethoscope while it was running, and the sound was the loudest when i put the probe on top of the dist. cap. Any ideas ? Distributor bearing going out maybe ? (Thanks)

    :confuse:
  • woltjerwoltjer Posts: 1
    i have a 1994 s10 with the 4cyl. it has a new motor and just today it is hard to start i have to crank it for a long time to get it started and have to hold the petal down to get it started it is a injected not a carb. when it does fire up it sputters real bad and puffs out alot of black smoke for a while then it idles fine until i press on the gas then it will sputter and puff more blacksmoke, then it will idle good but when i drive it every time i shift into a gear and push on the gas a little it sputters and puffs alot of black smoke im thinking fuel regulator or map sensor i need help :confuse: it pissing me off :mad: thankyou
  • goopstergoopster Posts: 3
    My girl friends mechanic told her she needs one of these for her 1993 4.3 s10 from what i was told it's a conection under the manifold that controls the injector pump.can't find any parts or anybody who really knows about a injector sub conector.any help on this would be nice.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    I all I know is the 4.3 with CPI has lots of fuel line leakage under the manifold.
  • goopstergoopster Posts: 3
    Thanks gonogo, nothing was said about fuel leakage just couldn't fix the wire thats part of the connector it,s going to be in my yard in a couple of days so i can tear into it and see exactly what the part looks like.
  • goopstergoopster Posts: 3
    problem solved :) pulled the intake manifold off and found the 2 pin connector on the injector wasen't getting any contact,the pins looked tarnished cleaned them up and good to go.Gongo i found a lot off excess fuel around this connection my guess the heat and fuel tarnished the pins.Thanks
  • what should the normal operating water temp be for a 1993 4.3L non vortec. i'm reading about 220 to 235 on my aftermarket guage and my mechanic told me it might just be the sending wire i have on it the is sending a warmer temp. but i think it is just running too hot
  • i have a 93 sonoma with the non vortec 4.3L(z engine code) and i put a after market water temp gauge and a new sensor in and it is reading 220-235 and i'm not sure why its so hot. i changed the fan clutch and the thermostat and the waterpump is still good. one of my friends has the vortec engine in a 94 silverado and his runs about 195 and his sending wire is metal with the spiral type cover and i just have a typical electrical wire and he thinks that is the problem and it is just reading wrong but i dont think thats it and i am not sure if the non vortec is supposed to run hotter or what???
  • 195*-205* depending on the thermostat. If your using the OEM sending unit with an after market gauge, they may not be compatible.
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