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In later years, the switches moved inside the door, on the outside door handle pull mechanism. To completely get to these switches, the inside door panel must be pulled off. Sometimes relief can be gotten by liberally spraying WD-40 or electrical cleaner through the outside door handle 'slots'.
These inside switches seem to give more grief than the older type. For mid/late 90's Rangers, they have common complaints about inside lite not going off, door open chimes dinging, etc, etc, etc.
How do you reboot a radio?
Strange...
thanks for any info
The emergency brake like won't go off. You can pop the break as much as you want, and it will not turn off. Any ideas? It's been like this for a long while.
Thank you
I'd like to disable the "Ross" back-up module/sounder unit.
Unit is very loud when in reverse..
I tried disconnecting a few harness pieces near the rear license plate- but no luck
yet. I am an electronics tech by trade.. but haven't spent much time investigating this...
Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanx, rick in n.calif
I just bought a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the 4 doors (2 small doors) and if I hit a bump, the dome light and chime comes on. I have to slam the driver's door to get it off but it comes back on again if I hit even a small bump. I read your note that the dome light door switch is on or near the outside door handles inside the door panels and that perhaps by spraying WD 40 into the door slots it might free up the light switch. Am I understanding this correctly? Should I just pull off the door panels and if so, can the switch be fixed or adjusted? The person I bought it from just took out the dome light bulb. thanks
Karl
I would think it (the switch) would not be adjustable. I've never worked with the 'small doors', but I would think there would be some adjustments or something to tighten up that would help with this problem.
The switches themselves cause a lot of problems, this is reported on forums all the time. So, lubing or replacement of the switches might be enough to solve your problem. But if the doors are worn, it might still happen. Don't the doors lock into some kind of catch or catches at the top and/or bottom of the doors. The latch here might have some adjustment on it, to keep the doors tighter.
If the doors hinges are worn, large or small, you might have to replace these. I replaced a hinge on my 1994, the lower one, because it squeaked/popped and would not hold the door in the open position. It wasn't too tough, but the top hinge looked like you would have to take the instrument panel out to get to the bolts.....
Same problem from drivers switch on door or push button on remote alarm.
The passenger door is the one haveing problems.
Key on drivers door is almost impossible and passenger key works but you some times have to try several times. Both keys are original got truck from my son.
150,000 on truck, we put a low milage engine in truck.
Engine had less than 30,000.
3 litre flex fuel engine, are these engines any good.
I know I will not use the flex fuel because of higer cost and lower milage.
Tryed lock ease in passenger door lock, no change.
Could some thing be bent or could I have a Bad ground on electric locks.
Bad ground could explain electric locks but not the trouble wit key and manual
opening of locks.Could keys be worn from use in ignition (no problem there).
I guess I could take vechice up to dealer and have key made from Vechicle number
on dash, which would be original key with no wear.
SICK LEAVE, Bob
When the truck is turned off and the driver's door is open, if I press the brake pedal the alarm sounds (the same alarm the sounds when you leave your keys in the ignition or your lights on...) Just tonight I found that when I engaged my right turn signal and pressed the brake the right turn signal would stop flashing. When I got home I noticed that the Left turn signal / parking light was out. I removed the bulb and reseated it and it works now. However, my left turn signal stopped flashing when the brake pedal was pressed (the issue moved). The hazzard lights also appeared to have ceased to work. I came back about 20 mins later and everything is now working the way it is supposed to, except for the brake / alarm issue, which started recently. Could this be a simple grounding issue (IE replace all the parking bulbs)?
Thanks!
I have a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT with 4.0 V6, 2 wheel drive. My probem is that everytime I hit the brake pedal, my right turn signal lights up. This includes both front and rear lights as well as the dashboard light. When I turn the signal on and hit the brake, the signal will not flash, take the foot off the brake, the signal works fine. Any ideas? Thanks
In fact, I meant to post this over the weekend but didn't get the chance... Check the mini fuse (perhaps in the driver's dash / door area - not sure on a '97). After booking an appointment with my mechanic who said it sounded like it was brake related, I decided to check the fuses. I thought it would be one of the larger relay types but as it turns out it was a 25 amp mini - #17 to be precise (the cigarette lighter / Data Control Link fuse).
So, my advice would be to check all of the fuses and see if one of them was blown.
Good luck!
Alt not charging, dies when batt disconnected, nothing from volt meter.
2 plug connectors
Large, 3 wires, 2 big and 1 small
Small, 2 wires, both small
No wire on large connector every reads anything on digital meter. Shouldn't 1 of the two large wires read batt voltage when unplugged and key off or on?
1 wire on small connector reads batt voltage when unplugged, and key switched on.
Isn't small connector field exciter and regulator?
Isn't large connector battery charge output?
2 new Autozone (yea I know) alternators, 1 new batt.
Still, alt good or bad cannot work if one of large wires lost connection to batt?
All fuses have been checked. All wiring checked visually. This vehicle does not have stack of wires off the solenoid, but has one large wire into harness that diappears into adjacent fuse block.
Do Rangers have an issue with failure of batt wire to alternator?
I am stuck like Chuck on this one and need to get this poor rag back to daughter to get her to work.
Thanks...-Eddie-
Where do you need to take the panel off? We're new to this -
The dome light still works when you open the back doors and they no longer pop on. Removing the door panel is easy. Just follow the instructions in any of the Chilton books.
All at once, here's what failed, without any apparent reason (I didn't do anything out of the ordinary):
Interior lights out.
Speedometer/odometer are dead.
Wipers dead.
Air bag light is ON.
"Theft" light no longer blinks.
Automatic Window Down doesn't work anymore, but the window still goes up and down if I hold the button.
Seat Belt Alarm is OFF.
And the radio doesn't pick up any radio stations.
I've checked fuses, battery connections. What gremlin has gotten into my car?!?!?!
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
If you have means to stabilize the pulley (ie vice, strap wrench, big pipe wrench, etc) you can put a wrench on the pulley nut and give it a good whack with a hammer in the direction you want it to move. That will usually do the trick.
Good luck
Brake Light - I doubt the ABS light has anything to do with the brake light. You have found power in the wire 'under the cab'. Therefore, the problem is between there and the brake bulbs. I think there is a main connector at the back of the truck where all the wires come in - brake, turn signal, and backup. This connector may be dirty or loose. If you don't have an electrical diagram, trace back from the brake bulb to this connector (Get the brake color wire), and test for brake power at the connector. This will tell if the wire is good to there. If power there, the problem is toward the bulbs. CHECK THE GROUNDS back there. It might be a ground problem.
I know this information is late, but i wanted to pass on to you that I had the same problem with mine.. the problem was the "inertia" switch located under the passangers side dash... its a red button switch that is designed to cut off the fuel to the engine during an impact.. over time i beleive these things are designed to die out.... they are linked to the starting system.. if the button is pressed or i say gets old it will give out.... you can have it replaced or have it by-passed at your local pepboys ....... anyhow hope it helps........ send me a reply if this info helps or not
thanks....
also need a diagram to show what fuse operates what lost owners manul
thanks guys
jerry
Or a hole in the vacumn line that goes to the gas tank?
Or maybe if you fix it, the check engine light will stop coming on?
http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/02/1999-ford-expedition-dome-courtesy-and.ht- ml
follow the link to check the switch!
Bert
Thanks for the note. I disassembled the front door panel and simply unplugged the light switch from the latch. Now I need to do the same with the rear suicide doors. I think the loose switch is in the rear doors as it still does the same and if I slam the rear door it's ok. Some rainy weekend I'll tackle that one.
Karl
Following this yellow wire to the front of the truck, I untaped the harness and found a heat shrink connection on the brown wire. Moving on, after dropping the spare tire for access, I went as far as a "Y" wire connection all taped up just above the rear axle.
From what I can tell there is no signal at this point. Fuses seem ok. Any help is appreciated.