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Ford Ranger Lighting and Electrical Problems



  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Looks like all power goes thru the 'multifunction (MF)' switch just after the main headlight switch. MF is the left side 'stalk' with turn signals, high beam, etc. This switch may be bad.
  • Thank you bolivar but we have checked the grounds with NO LUCK do you have anything else???
    Thanks Fire
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Grounds? I didn't say anything about grounds.

    "Looks like all power goes thru the 'multifunction (MF)' switch just after the main headlight switch. MF is the left side 'stalk' with turn signals, high beam, etc. This switch may be bad. "

    I said the multifunction switch may be bad.
  • dean111dean111 Posts: 2
    Thanks. Great explanation.

    I've got exactly the same problem on my defender.

    Was there already a link to these wiring diagrams?... I've been looking everywhere.

    See Page 59.

    Let me know if any else fixes their problem.
  • dean111dean111 Posts: 2
    I mean let me know if anyone fixes their problem. I haven't done it yet.
  • jherrjherr Posts: 4
    I have a 92 ranger 4 cylinder. My turn signals stopped working. They don't even light up. My wipers, hazards, horn, head lights all work fine. I checked the fuse it's good, I checked the bulbs they are good. Is there a relay somewhere I need to check?
  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38
    How about a relay switch?
  • jherrjherr Posts: 4
    I can't seem to find a relay switch. Does anyone know where it is located or how many there are?
  • jherrjherr Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advise on my turn signals. It was the hazard/turn signal fuse. They work now.
  • ncherryncherry Posts: 5
    Passenger door turns dome light on, but driver side door and the instrument panel switch on the dash do not. Is this one problem or two? I have Chilton's but it doesn't show associated wiring for the dome light, door, or dash switch. Any assistance appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I would think two.

    The switch in the driver's door isn't working, to turn the dome light on.

    The light switch isn't working to turn the dome light on. But, are you sure this is supposed to work this way? I don't remember about my 94. But I do know my newer cars no longer have the light switch turning the interior light on. Either open the door,or there is a button on the light itself that turns it on, not the light switch.

    If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you how the lights work.
  • ncherryncherry Posts: 5
    mis-spoke. Not the "light" switch but the dask board dimmer switch. When rolled to brightest position is supposed to turn on interior light. There is supposed to be a detent which you can feel, but I can't feel one. I guess both the door and dimmer switches need to be replaced. Thanks.
  • Check engine light does not come on when truck is started. Suspect bulb is burned out... Looks light a nightmare to get to. Any suggestions for ease of bulb replacement??


  • my 88 did that. The only thing that worked on the whole truck was the headlights.It ended up being a bad wire under passenger front fender.Sounds like something in the wiring,
  • Fuses are good bulbs are good. Light dont work. Does this thing have a flasher unit? If so where? Its a 1996 ranger xlt. Any help would be great. Thanks.
  • your flasher is under the dash to the right of the column
  • I dont have a owners book to tell me what fuse is the high beam but have tested all on the side of the dash, the haynes book said its #33 but i don't have a 33 so any help would be great.
  • My son just bought a 2000 Ranger 4wd with the 3.0. While driving the tach drops to 0 until he either guns it or stops and restarts. What should I look for and where to begin to repair this issue???
    Thanks for the help.
  • Hey got a '92 Ranger. Idiot me left the lights on one night, obiously killed the battery. I got a jump and ran it and the alternator charged it but it wouldnt start. I took it to where I got the battery they tested it and said the the battery was 12v but the CCA's were bad in it so they gave me a new one. Now I came back from hunting and this time I did not leave anything on and I go to start it and same thing. I noticed the first time my gauge was jumping all over the place but it read a steady 12v on my multimeter. This time it is jumping everywhere again but I haven't looked on the meter. Any advice?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A nicely charged battery, at the battery terminals, car not running, ignition off, should show 12.6 volts, using a nice multimeter.

    Running, the alternator should throw a steady 13 to 15 volts measured at the battery. This value will vary according to the temperature and if the battery is discharged.

    The gauge in the truck is a voltmeter. If it is wildly varying while the truck is running, you probably have an alternator that is malfunctioning. If a cell in a battery is going bad, it could cause non-normal readings on the gauge, which could be either low or high, and could jump around some, but usually will not 'wildly vary'.

    If you have another vehicle, and can do it, take the alternator out and take it to Autozone, etc - they can test it. Also might take the battery in, you might have got a defective new battery.

    Of course, there could also be loose/bad/corroded wiring somewhere. The first thing to look at would be both battery cables. Any corrosion showing should be checked. The cables can be 'eaten up' inside the insulation and not visible. Check the connections to the battery posts also, make sure the connections are firm. And the connection where the ground wire is bolted to the block, and where the positive wire connects to - whatever - could be the starter, a relay, etc, etc. And then there are lots and lots of possibilities in the other ignition, charging, etc wiring all over the car.
  • when i turn the key to the on position i lose all power to the truck..i can hear a clicking near the fuse box area on the passenger side when the key turned to the on position. the truck will not even turn over or do anything else...only the clicking.Is this an electrical short and if so where would it be?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Do you mean the 'on' position or the 'start' position?

    Clicking at the 'start' position many times means a discharged or failed battery. The clicking is the starter solonid attempting to engage, but there is not adequate voltage to keep it engaged, it just pops back and forth, and all you hear is a click while it is doing this.

    If things go dead when turned to the 'on' position - I don't even have a guess.

    Unless it also is a very bad battery, and it can't even drive the dash lights, etc and you are hearing some small relay attempting to engage, doing the same thing as described above for the starter solonid (which is just a big relay).
  • dper299dper299 Posts: 19
    I have a 98 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 liter V6 vin X, My problem is, When the vehicle sits for about 6 hrs in about 40 deg or below temps when I start it (with no problems) all the lights flicker at idle until the vehicle warms up,When I rev it up the flickering stops.But when its about 40 deg or above it doesnt happen...Could this be the alternator going bad or hanging up in the cold. When I put a meter on the battery it shows 14.5 volts when running and 12.5 when off....Any ideas,,Thanks :confuse:
  • 1994 Ford Ranger XLT dome light will not turn off and the open door or seat belt chime keeps beeping.

    Every so often, this happens, but it has become more frequent recently.
    1. Dome light comes on when door is open, but will take a few minutes to go off after the door is closed and the engine is started or it will not turn off at all. I noticed a surge the light gets brighter when I start the engine. Also, the light remains on even when the truck is not running or idle and all doors are closed.
    2. The door/seat belt chime also will not turn off. This is very annoying.
    3. The head lights will turn off while I'm driving and come back on after a few seconds.
    Finally, the ignition switch may play a role in this mayhelm, because it is loose and sometimes this stops the chime, but only when the engine has been turned off and I move the switch to a certain position.
    If anyone has experience fixing the above problems please drop me a line.

    A ford service personnel says it might be the Door Jam Switch or Multi-Function Module, and the Head Lamp Module may be bad.
    To Fault Trace these problems will be very expensive. Can someone suggest a less expensive solution?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Replacing both door jab switches, which are inexpensive, would be the first and easiest thing to try. Or, even cheeper, spray the heck out of these switches with WD-40.
  • Thanks, I will give the WD-40 a try and then change out the switches if that does'nt do the job.

    Where the switches located inside the door panel?

    Any info about the head light problem?
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