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I unlatched the glove compartment and found that the rattle looks to be the air duct pipes being loose. Still haven't figured out how to secure/dampen it with sticky foam.
I'm using a new dealership for service now but the last one was such a waste of time with me coming in 5 times for the same issue and them not being able to resolve it.
Hmmm. It might be by design then. I did see the foam sticking out as well on the corner driver side and not on the middle and passenger side. I just accepted that it ticks/rattles when the temp drops to the 40's. It usually disappears for the most part until you hit a bad bump/groove then it feels like the whole dashboard is loose (ticks/rattles). I am not wasting my time with dealer service anymore since they haven't been able to fix the problem. How many miles does your Fit have? I already have over 20K miles so I'm thinking it might be wear and tear as well. Haha.
Although I'm in Phoenix, my car did the same thing in the same place in early morning cold. Maybe the rubber seal gets really hard.
As per Honda's website, the Fit has a 100,000-Miles-or-More Tune-Up Interval so it is most likely a timing chain. All you really need to change is the oil, fluids, brakes, rotate and balance the tires.
Not sure how they figure it.
The dealer initially said they were able to duplicate the noise early in the morning but once the day warmed up ( I live in Connecticut) the noise went away. They called me and informed me that no action was taken and I could come pick up the car.
Well, I picked up the car and quicky drove it around the block so I could confirm the noise. I drove back to the dealer and had the service manager come out and drive around the block with me. He definitely heard the noise and apoligized for it not being properly fixed.
In a nutshell they spent two days tearing things down and here's the documented fix: "Mileage 19,237. Dash has multiple creaks and rattles @ base of windshield and aroun the lower "A" pillar trip area and around the instrument visor area. Contacted Honda tech-line. Tech-line had no info in database on this issue. Removed instrument visor and guages and road tested. Still hear several noises @ base of windshield area. Removed entire dashboard assy and found no EPT foam on underside of dash panel @ firewall area. Also found two vent ducts on t he drivers side that were conacting each other creating creak type noise. Installed a strip of EPT foam between ducts, installed EPT foam along the entire firewall area over sound deadening foam and also put EPT foam on underside of dash panel and insulated dash board locating pins as they were also a source of noise. Reinstalled dashboard assy, installed wool felt around instrument panel bezel and around instrument visor assy. Also applied wool felt to base of the "A" pillar trim panels. Roadtested again...dash area silent."
My dash made a ton of noise, especially when it was in the 20's outside. Since the fix it is silent and a joy to drive again. Just wanted to give folks a heads up in the event you are experiencing a similar problem.
Also, check this other thread.
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-yourself-discuss-do-yourself-repair-maintenan- ce/9845-rattles-im-winning-diy-fix.html?highlight=dash+rattle
If it doesn't hotlink, cut and paste it.
I drove to a Rangers game the other day in the city and the freaking dash noise drove me and the wife absolutely bat $hit crazy. My commute today in to the office...silent. Well, except for my need for early AM metal.
The tires were also rotated. The so-so Dunlops are wearing quickly so they got rotated as suggested. I might add that inflating them to at least 40psi helps with handling and improves economy.
Since the topic's on fluids I'll add my average MPG have been about 33 (range 30 to 36). 80% is 70mph light to mid footed highway driving with the rest on suburb roads. Higher revs seem to decrease highway MPG on the manual tranny as in my case.
I've also brought that up as I was wondering if the higher revs decrease oil life according to the maintenance minder. Any ideas?
Is the timing belt that easy to change?
Man, that was always a pain in the butt to put all that money in just because it was located in a tough to get to spot.
It is not laid out clearly that you need x y and z at zero thousand miles. Ugh.
I still have no clue whether I have timing belt or timing chain etc.
Suggestions?
Can I get this info from dealer for free?
I tried to get an oil change today at 1000 miles and the dealer told me to wait until 15% to do it (it was at 90%). So, good for the dealers. They were being honest.
my original dealer, I went in for an A1 tune up, and they said the tread wear was even, so I didn't need a rotation. nice!
There are all sorts of recommended maintenance timelines in your owner's manual. I'm sure you got some booklets when you bought the car. One might be just for maintenance, I can't remember. Also, you should have been set up with Honda Owners Link online - your VIN should be registered there and you can create a login to learn all that stuff.
But, yes, still on my first tank. I actually work from home so don't need to run around too much. Hence, wanting just a small, simple car that uses regular gas (my previous car used premium). I just hit 140 miles.
However, I've also heard that the factory oil has special break-in additives, and Honda really wants that oil in there for at least the first 5000 miles. That would suggest that you should get out and drive a bit more, at least during this first year!
When driving my FIT, when I leave the front seat windows up and roll down the back windows, the cars actually begins to shake and vibrate and a popping noise starts up and becomes so loud at 60 mph that you voice is distorted and your ears start to hurt. Once you start to roll down a front seat window the sound immediately goes away.
My car was only 3 days old when I was on the expressway and decided to roll down only my backseat windows and as soon as I did the noise began and shaking started, I thought the back end of the car was coming apart. I immediately pulled over and could find nothing wrong. As soon as I got back up to 50 mph the noise and shaking started again.
A little experimenting determined that it only happened when the front seat windows were rolled up and the rear seat windows were rolled down, I suspect it has something to do with the pressure changed in the car from the wind blowing in the cars back seat passenger windows.
I asked the dealer about this problem and he said all Honda’s do that and the fix is to roll down a front window just a crack. While that does work, it also creates a whistling sound that drives me nuts when I am driving.
I am wondering if any other FIT drivers have this problem. My model is a 2007 Fit Sport
Just the way it is.
To be honest, I don't remember it being a problem on my boxy, 1981 Sentra, but I know for sure it was happening by the time we got around to my 1991 Sentra which was a bit sleeker.
I understand what's happening. It's like blowing across the top of a soda bottle to create a tone. The air passing over the open window is causing the air inside the car to resonate. It may only happen with rear windows because the front windows generally have the side mirrors to break up that airflow right at the front edge of the window opening.
It's like turning up your home stereo pretty loud, then switching the + and - terminals on one of the speakers.
The Interior is a pretty big space. And just like a larger bottle will produce a lower tone, the frequency of the vibration is pretty low. You feel it more than hear it! :surprise:
I'd tell all of you curious ones to try it, but it may blow out your ears or make the windows explode.
Anyone else experience this problem? It seems noticeable only in 5th gear.
Anyway, the cabin filter is the easiest thing to do. Think lint filter on a dryer. Just unlatch your glove compartment box and inside you'll see the filter housing right smack in the middle with the 2 latches on the side. Just pull out softly and voila, you see the dirty filter.
I actually had a harder time replacing the air filter for the first time since I had to massage the accordian thingy out of the air filter cover.
Tip: Just make sure you replace it back as you see it. Cabin filter "air flow" sign should be facing front.
The 2 filters just took 5 min to replace. Can you believe the dealer was charging me $89 to replace just the air filter?