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Comments
If you coast along with no power, no noise....so that rules out the wheel bearings, rear end, and back end of transmission.
If you run the engine and don't move, no noise....so that rules out the engine, all the engine driven components, and the front end of the transmission.
In my mind, that leaves one of the shafts in the transmission as suspect.
I'd take it to a transmission shop (or the dealer) for their diagnosis. Unless you are a transmission guru, not something you'll be able to repair (but if you were a transmission guru you wouldn't be asking on this board in the first place). I work on just about everything on all my vehicles, but better to leave transmission to the experts. I just had my own 97 Suburban in to repair the transmission couple months ago (lost reverse and 2nd gear).
thanks
~TOM
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Start with the tires by checking for proper balance and alignment...then make sure you don't have a bent wheel. If these things check out you probably have some wear in the front end steering geometry. Worn shocks possibly could be an issue too....
That's a lot of weight to carry around, so I'd be on the lookout for the possibility of worn parts.
~tom
Oh yeah, for your own safety you should have someone at least look it over. But remember, they may be trying to sell you something. If they claim they see "damage", well you should be able to see it as well. Anything so badly worn as to cause a violent shimmy should be apparent to the naked eye I would think.
But you might try the front to rear tire swap as an experiment. If it's bad tire balance, and you switch the bad tires to the rear, your shimmy will disappear but you'll feel vibrations in the seat of your pants.
-Dylan-
I finally took my Burb into the dealer for the fix because it was time for emission check.
Transfer case was fixed by replacing the encoder motor sensor int the transfer case.
EVAP emission leak was a prob from a previous owner who had snapped a connection off the charcoal canister and then neatly tucked line out of view to not draw attention. Replaced the cannister.
Anyway, I know some others had posted about similar transfer case issues, so hope this helps.
les schwab said the tires were perfect.
still have no idea....
~tom
I talked with a guy I know who stated it is under the intake manifold.
I am happy to do this job myself, but I am just wondering if anyone out ther has personal experience with removing the intakes on the 5.3, and any helpful hints before I start the job.
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You probably have a faulty sending unit or perhaps a loose wire or something like that. If you had zero oil presssure in reality.....your motor would be toast if the pump wasn't working....or your main bearings could be totally worn out resulting in a very low pressure reading..and that is not likely with just 40K miles on the engine.
Occasionally acts like fuel starvation and may stall at highway speeds(often under heavy load)(no relation to fuel in tank). May not start if tank is less than 1/2 full and car has sat for 8 or more hours. Will then start if fuel is added.
After dying on road it has so far started after 10-15 minutes and dozens of times of engaging starter. During these episodes it will often sputter. When it finally starts it then acts fine with no problems for a while.
Have replaced restricted fuel filter. Another mechanic said that banging on the fuel tank will allow it to start. Gauge changes reading somewhat at low levels.
I believe that problem (or an unrelated problem) is in fuel tank that causes gauge level change. Cold starting problem is definitely related to low fuel level. Maybe the pump in tank is sucking air or clogged with debris? Am having the tank pulled to check it.
In previous vehicles diagnosing a problem like this wasn't hard but since the dome lights stay on an extended period of time after the door switches are pushed in, the old ways of diagnosing dome light problems just don't work. So how do I figure out what's wrong? In reading a diagnostic tree for a newer GM car it appears I may need a scan tool, is this true?
I've read in other places on the web about this dome light problem but no one has bothered to post the solution or how to diagnose the problem. And apparently no one has mentioned it here I don't find it in my searches.
I really like the Suburban it hauls all the people my 96 Chrysler T&C did with more shoulder room for all. Plus fabulous cargo room and a great power improvement. Amazingly enough the fuel economy in town is the same!!! For a v-6 the T&C sucked as far a mpg. Plus I get 4 wheel drive that the T&C didn't have. Now to solve the dome light problem so I can go back to enjoying my new for me rig.
And a question were there any trim packages where the middle or rear bench recline?
Thanks
Mark
1999 GMC Suburban
Barring that does the vibration occur anywhere at the speeds you mentioned or an a specific stretch of road? If it's only on a certain stretch of road it could be the pavement. I've had vibrations occur on small stretches of road that go away once the pavement changes.
Does it occur if you turn on the AWD? My 99 wanders slightly around 65 to 70 and turning on the AWD eliminates the wander. It might do the same for the vibration. If it makes it worse it might be an out of balance axle shaft. If that's the case is the problem bad enough to justify the repair cost?
~Mark
1999 GMC Suburban
OTHER POST WORDS...
we have a 1999 chevy suburban with the security system in it. the other day after starting the suburban the security light in the dash stayed on for about 5 min and everything was fine. now sometimes when i go to start it it turns over and tries to start but the security light is flashing and it won't start. let it set for about 5 - 10 min and it will start fine. is there any one that knows of how to check the system and see what is wrong with it? thanks for any help.
"Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect exhaust system for loose or damaged components.
Fuel System Inspection
Inspect fuel system for damage or leaks."
I haven't seen any posts that either of these systems are prone to defects. This isn't even really a "Service", i.e., repair or replacement of parts - it's just a visual inspection, right? I tend to obey the manual, better safe than sorry, but I don't necessarily want to pay a lot for this. I guess I'll just call the dealership when my next oil change is due and get a quote.
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Correct, a visual inspection. Should take a qualified mechanic about 60 seconds.
Can anyone please help me?
Thanks
~tom
thanks.
~tom
Any ideas why these aren't working?
Thanks,
Tall
P.s. I didn't get this in the right area.
I also recently just changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor....just as normal maintenance.
When they took your old plugs out, did they look okay, or were some fouled? If the originals were fouled #3/#4, then you probably have a more serious problem as they suggest, possibly a blown head gasket between 3/4. Not sure how they would indicate a warped manifold....unless they have taken your engine apart to check. If your old plugs were okay, and now you have 2 plugs fouling I would suspect a problem with their plug/wire change.....or with the old distributor cap and rotor, since you didn't indicate they changed that. Did you replace the plugs and wires with factory Delco?
How is it that the PCV valve was missing?
Tried the "sulfer remover"liquid from the dealer but I still have the "won't start on much less than 1/2 tank if it's set for over 8 hour" problem. One good bang on the tank starts it though. It hasn't died in transit for a couple months.
Just changed mine on a 97 Sub, you'll need a 3/8" socket set with a plug socket (it's a deep socket the correct size for the plug, with a rubber insert to protect the plug), and a couple different extensions and a swivel are helpful. You should put anti-seize on the new plug threads. You'll need a plug gapper to check/adjust the gap on the plugs before' you put them in. The owners manual gives you the gap, my 96 gap is 60 thousandths of an inch.
I personally would recommend Manufacturer plugs as called out in the manual, you can get at autoparts store (as opposed to other name brand equivalents).
Your low idle could have nothing to do with the plugs though, so I'd personally only swap the plugs if you were up there in miles, or you were getting computer error codes suggesting cylinder mis-firings.