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Not the case. I have the a/c clutch wires pulled out at the moment.
My real problem: Truck was running fine, until I went out to eat and it sat in garage. I used a battery charger overnight to charge the battery and it about 12.4 now. Truck wouldn't start. Fuel pump relay not coming in, so I pulled the relay and jumped the pump. Truck starts but ALTERNATOR squeels. I removed the wire from alternator, and started truck. From chassis to the Alternator I get nada, zero volts and no squeel.
Touching the alternator wire to the battery caused the alternator to squeel and the battery to chatter. I replace the alternator. New one same thing. Chatters but only when the charge wire is touching the positive battery terminal, and only when the alternator indicator wire is plugged in. Otherwise the truck runs fine even if I plug in the a/c clutch and load it.
I am confused. At the same time my fuel pump relay comes ON for two seconds then shuts off. This is weird because the relay comes on, NOT THE PRIME wire for 2 seconds. I have studied the schematics I have and have not found a logical solution for either of these.
Prime never comes on. Fuel pump on for 2 seconds then off. Alternator does not squeel unless the charge wire is on AND the alternator display plug is connected.
Thanks for any help, Ken
I am having a problem with my driver's side electric window. It comes off the track and becomes tilted in the door. I disassembled the door and found a roller out of a track. After reassembling the door I was testing the window and it seemed to retract too far into the door. Upon raising it again it was out of the track again.My question is: is there a stop the prevents the window from retracting too far or are there limit switches in the assembly or motor that does this? I appreciate any and all help with this problem.
Thank you,Paul
Also, a whine has come back to the transmission. But now its anytime, when first starting it up ad driving for about 2 min. 40 degrees or 80 degrees, no difference. The tranny fluid is full, no leaks either. I got a reply a long time ago saying it was the transmission, but i'm not soo sure. it whines when its first started, in park when nothing should be moving.
=/
The rear passenger's door trim piece (the metal strip) came all off, all the tabs on it are warped or gone. I've tried different glues, but nothing will seem to hold it. is there anything anyone suggests to get that stuck back on there?
thanks for any advice!
Better to just remove the belt or deactivate the clutch than let it seize.
Thanks
Having said that I don't know why it would take two hours to start unless your fuel pump is functional but too weak to fill up an empty rail system.
I wonder if you could put a shot of starting ether in there and see if it kicks off immediately. That would tell you something.
Thanks again.
So your dealer found no error codes? He didn't hook up meters to the ignition circuit after leaving the car overnight? Did he swap out another fuel pump? (being "new" is no basis for presuming it is good). Has he checked the fuel pump relay?
I don't see why a good tech can't solve this. Maybe fuel pump relay, that cuts out as you release the key?
Dunno, these intermittent problems need a very systematic approach---the diagnostic "tree"...which is to test for one thing, then if not THAT, then go to THIS, if not THIS than go to THAT....if THAT works, proceed to THERE....
I mean, if the truck is doing the bad thing for two hours, that gives the tech two hours to find out why an engine won't start....you know, fuel, ignition, compression---one of those three....
All we really know at this point is that when your key is on "crank" the fuel pump is running and the ignition works...that's about all we know for sure...but what happens when the key is released would be very interesting to know....
Where is the fuel pump relay? Are there any sensors that would perform quirky and do this? The mechanic told me today that it could possibly be an oil pressure sensor, and when he looked it up, he said this year of suburban didn't have one.
You know any incredible mechanics in Utah?
I really appreciate your help. Everyone I have talked to says they can't do anything unless they have the car when it is broken. I can't plan when that will happen
Thanks
So now what is the most logical next step?
Thanks
I have been going through all of the comments, and it sounds like since the thing seems to be altitude maybe barametric related, could it be my map or maf sensors?
I have not replaced those.
Thanks
Thanks for your feedback
Or better yet, go to eBay and pick up a Chilton's Truck Manual for the year 1978
(what I'm driving at here is a vibration issue emanating from the engine, flywheel, clutch, motor mounts, gearbox, etc.)
on acceleration it backfires at the carb (tbi), new map and egr, anyone have any ideas as to the cause - repair shop gave me a diagnosis of camshaft/valve springs/innition coil/etc, i dont think he is very knowledgeable in his trade, anyway anyone have any ideas???
You could have a valve(s) that is sticking open and/or weak spring, or have a valve guide with wear and isn't allowing the valve to seal correctly, or multiple valve problems, etc.
You could have slop in your timing chain, where the timing is varying all over the place. This would cause the timing between the crankshaft (pistons), and the camshaft (valves and distributor) to be off.
You could have wear in your distributor, which would effect the timing between the camshaft and the distributor.
You've got 170K miles on the engine, so any of these problems could be possible.
Do a compression test on each cylinder, and see what that shows. That will tell you whether you have one cylinder with a problem (one lower than all the others), or across the board normal, or across the board low.
- RPM gage went to zero
- Speedometer went to zero
- Gear Position Indicator (red vertical bar) disappeared
- SES & Check Gages lights came on
Accelerator was less responsive at slower speeds. I was able to drive at normal speeds up a steep hill. It lasted about 2 miles. Will it happen again? :confuse:
With not a whole lot to go on, this could be a basic electrical problem (battery voltage, corrosion, fuse, electrical switch), or could be a problem with the instrument panel. I'd personally be leaning to a basic electrical problem, since if it was an instrument panel problem I don't believe it would also have effected your accelerator.
If it was me, a start with a free test of the battery and alternator at autoparts chain (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc) to make sure that your main power was able to supply the correct voltage. Make sure the battery connections are clean with no corrosion. I'd then also pull and check with a meter any fuses associated with the instrument panel, or switched power that the keyswitch controls.
If you find something fix it. If you find nothing, I would then pay particular attention for the next couple months to all electrical items, and make sure everything is working the way it is supposed to and there are no other 'symptoms' or problems that might give you another clue as to the cause of the first gauge problem.
I failed to mention:
- Battery & electrical system checked OK.
- SES & check gages light led to these codes:
-- P0740 TCC circuit malfunction
-- 753 Shift Solenoid
-- 758 Shift Solenoid
-- 785 Shift Timing Solenoid
- Transmission checked OK by a transmission shop.
I'm planning on taking your advice and my Suburban to an electrical shop next week. Thanks!
I'm looking for a replacement air intake filter for my parent's Suburban. I'm not trying to put in anything like a cold air intake, or K&N. I'm just looking for a regular intake filter. Before purchasing a filter, I wanted to see if anyone out there has any recommendations regarding the available brands of air filter being sold in the market. I've heard the air filter for suburban is important and didn't want to purchase a bad product. If anyone has some good information, please let me know.
Thank You
The 07+ design rides significantly better, having moved to coil springs.
Mechanically it's been quite reasonable, with very good availability of reasonably priced parts if needed. I do any work myself, so I can't comment about dealer charges. The one general weakness is it's transmission, since it is a heavy vehicle. I got 25% of it's original price when I traded it in after 10 years.
I would think the used market on large SUV's is very soft, given price of gas and all the soccer mom's dumping them. I always thought the MPG reasonable for what we're using it for, and the mileage on the 07+ with it's valve management getting 20+mpg is just fabulous.
We've had one since the kids were in diapers, and I'll probably always have one for it's all around flexibility which it provides.
I've been told to check the stop light switch which is "Down by the brake peddle" I *think* I found it, but if I have, what do I do with it? I don't think I have found it, but I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Is it an actual on/off switch or just a thing to plug the wires into?
All three lights are out (the right, left and the one above the door). I do have tail lights, blinkers and back-up lights. So what's the deal, and how do I fix it?
Any insight?
I think if it was me, I'd begin documenting exactly when it occurs (date, time, mileage) and take a video or photo. If you get enough of these intermittent failures, the dealership will have to replace something to try and narrow down where the problem is.
Replaced fuses
Replaced Bulbs
Replaced the Stop Light Switch
BEFORE I had the Stop Light Switch replaced they did come on once, but when I tried again they wouldn't turn on, so could it be a loose connection somewhere?
Any ideas? I have to drive it about 5 hours in Thanksgiving traffic, I'd REALLY love to have working brake lights for the drive.
What I have a 1994 7.4 454 V8 K2500 Suburban, Jeggs bottom end, edlebrock multi-port injection, edlebrock aluminum heads, shorty headers, MSD blaster coil, thats basically all I know.
My problem:
first: The oil pressure is low, just above the red lines, but never goes any lower (at idle) driving around town it's about 1 notch under 40, and cold it's just under 60.
second: driving around town it runs great... no step hills, If I get on the highway and start going up a hill it starts ticking on the drivers side, if I give it more throttle it sounds almost like a knock, but no more power.
is the oil pressure normal?
whats that tick?
-Jason
also it sounds like its coming from the drivers side not really the center, but I could be wrong... wouldnt be the first time