A ticking sound when accelerating is often caused by an exhaust leak, and sometimes occurs only when the engine is under a load. Check the gasket seal between the exhaust mainfold and the head, and on the round gasket between the exhaust mainfold and the exhaust pipe.
Also, big blocks especially had a habit of of breaking the exhaust bolts that keep the manifold on the head. Those bolts get red hot and if they aren't made of the right steel alloy they get brittle and break. Chevy used some bad ones for a while.
I'm not convinced your power problem and the ticking sound are related.
This happened to my '06 Tahoe last night. When it happened the electrical system went haywire also. All of the warning lights lit up on the dash, the radio and interior lights died and the front driver and passenger windows would not work. Was this also a problem for you? When I looked it up in the owners manuel under StabiliTrak System it said "this message should appear only if you have gone through heavy acceleration or braking during the first two miles after starting your vehicle." It then said to turn off the engine and turn it back on to reset (we did this and it didn't help) and if not the case take it in for service. Funny thing was when I got home I set the emergency brake after I parked and everything started working again?!?
We haven't seen anything with the electrical system or problems with lights or performance. Now I'm a bit more concerned. We just see the message on the OBC.
Sorry I didn't notice your post earlier, Crandall. I encountered the same condition with my 2002 Suburban . . . a very common problem on Chevrolet trucks at 80-90,000 miles.
The fuel gauge on your vehicle is integrated with the fuel pump, and is worn to the point of being defective. In essense, it is giving you a false reading at 1/4 tank, and the tank is close to empty. As you mentioned, adding a couple of gallons of fuel cures the problem temporarily.
A replacement pump from a dealer will be about $490, and around $350 aftermarket. I located the correct pump on eBay for $279 and had it installed for $200. A far cry from a dealer quote of $900. Check ebay@conquestauto.com for a new AC Delco pump [factory]. 90% of all Suburbans are flex-fuel, which means the more expensive pump, part #MU1379. If your truck is a 'Z' code it is flex-fuel.
Since the pump is still operable, I recommend you keep the pump in your vehicle for those cross-country jaunts . . . you'll never find a flex-fuel pump in the middle of America when you need one! Incidentally, since the fuel pump is located in the tank, the only thing that cools the pump is the fuel. Keeping at least 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank at all times is the best way to extend the life of the pump . . . and you know you always have a little reserve for an emergency. I've tried to convey that message to others in the household to no avail!
Regarding #1 if on your 03 Suburban. The problem is a wiper motor regulator, an electrical panel that is part of the motor housing. Same thing happened to me last year. Fortunately it was raining all day. replacement part cost about $106 from the dealer.
Yes, my 2003 has been doing this for over 2 years. It does this when the fuel gauge reads slightly less than half full. It also acts the same way sometimes when it is using a lot of fuel, driving fast, uphill, and/or with a boat behind even with a full tank. Often it will not stall but will only sputter. The temporary fix always works.
Shut off the engine if it was running and then bang on the bottom of the tank with your fist. If you don't shut if off, it banging won't fix it. For this reason I think that the fuel screen in the tank is becoming clogged and stopping the fuel flow lets the debris fall off. Mine may have started when I used fuel that had been in my boat tank. I've used lots of dry gas and sulfur cleaner and replaced filters to try to fix it.
Those who have replaced pumps probably had their tanks emptied and that would clear out debris. I'm just going to live with it. I haven't been able to get a hose into the tank to suck it out. It's not a bad idea to keep your tank 1/2 full anyhow. If I drove hills and fast highways and heavy loads a lot I'd probably dump the tank. I've posted before on this condition.
Did you ever find an answer to the cold air on the passenger side problem. This is my problem and seems to be rather common? I don't have an answer...I need an answer.
Anyone ever heard of a turbo 400 trans (88 burb) that makes an odd high pitched grinding noise when shifting from 1-2 intermittently? The power delivery is still normal, but it grinds between shifts sometimes and I cant figure it out. Been doing this for the past 5,000 miles or so. Tranny fluid level is fine. It doesn't seem to be linked to any conditions, just once in a while I'll go a few miles with it grinding then it suddenly stops then returns some time later. :confuse:
If you haven't; make sure it's the tranny. Mine has a belt noise that's caused by the air conditioning pump load. Might be a loose tensioner or bad pump.
I've already replaced the pump and other parts of the air conditioning system because it was starting to seize. The noise comes from inside the tranny housing because it sounds like im sitting on top of the noise. I'm just wondering what causes it, being the fact that it's not acting any different. Thanks
I had the same problem in my 2000 Suburban. Cold air coming in on passenger side. I also had a problem with the heat sticking so I took it to my friendly neighborhood Chevy dealer and let them deal with it.
They replaced some type of air control valve and added insulation. Just got it back tonight. Since no one was sitting in the passenger seat, I don't know if it's fixed. Wife and kids and I will be driving the burb a 100 miles or so tomorrow, so I'll find out for sure then.
I have a 95 suburban. All the settings on the heating control work accept for the defroster. I can turn the dial to that setting but nothing happens, and in Michigan, that is not a good thing. Any ideas as to what is wrong and how to fix it?
I occasionally get a loud "bang" from under my '97 Suburban. It sounds is as if someone hit a metal gas tank with a hammer. It seems to happen more often when it's cold outside. Sometimes while driving, sometimes while idling, sometimes after shutting engine off, sometimes with full tank, sometimes with almost empty tank... I can't seem to make a correlation, and wondering if anyone else out there found the source of a similar noise. Maybe thermal expansion of something, but I can't get it to happen when I'm under there looking....
Had a '96 with similar noise, it is the gas tank. I believe it is related to a vaccuum being pulled by gas vapor recirculation, charcoal cannister et al. I would hear mine shortly after shutting off the engine.
I did find a small tubing up on the canister, that a mouse had eaten thru. I fixed that connection, and hadn't heard the noise in about a month before I traded it in on a 2007 model.
help I have a 99 surban about every 4 mo or so it wount start it starts and dies.This pro blem has been going on for about 4 years.Its seem to do it more often in december cold and rainie .Ive took it to the dealer several different times no code error was found.The fuel pump,relay fuel pressure regulator,filter,ignition switch was replaced.My problem sounds like this thread,
I''ve resolved this "stuck in park" problem, but am posting it here so in case someone else has the problem, they will hopefully find this tidbit when they search. If you have a Suburban or Tahoe or similar GM that won't come out of park, the problem could be a sticky "shift lock actuator". This is a stubby cylinder-shaped solenoid-type thing that sits on a shift linkage rod under the dash. If it is nice and clean, you should be albe to hear it click on/off as you press on the brake pedal with the ignition on. It was pretty easy to remove, disassemble, clean, re-install, and away you go! It was tough figuring out if it was this, or the cable-based lock mechanism, but trust me... this one is a lot easier to inspect than the other, so you can learn from my mistake and start with this one!
Try to describe the problem more fully. Did it die or not start. If it wouldn't start, when was it last running? How full was the fuel tank. Did you use dry gas? Did you fill up at an unfamiliar station or put gas in from a fuel can? How did you finally get it started? Did anyone check the fuel filter? Any other problems? How did it sound when you tried to start it. Did you try adding gas to try to start it? Keep it in a garage? Short or long trips? Can you hear the fuel pump run?
Hi Thanks it started for about 1 second then would die it would keep doing this start die start die.About 2 hours later it would start,and then it would run fine for about 6 mo.,or so,then it would do this again start die start die.It seems like it always does in December when its cold and rainey.I got the car in December about 4 years ago used 2 weeks after I got it this problem started.I took it to an auto shop they replaced the fuel pump,fuel presure regulator,filter,fuel relay, the car still would not run it would start die start die,finally the car started for unknown reason it ran fine for another 6 mo. or so and did this again since Ive had this car its done this to me about 10 times or so.Ive took to the dealer 4 different times no code error came up he said it could be the ignition so replaced something that had to do with the ignition.They say they cant find anything wrong with the car.Ive read two threads on this wed site that sounds just like my car symptoms the car would start then die.One of those cars was a 99 surban just like mine I think the person was greg
my 94 suburban wont start. I know the starter is good, the battery is new, the positive battery wire is new, the ignition lock cylinder is new, the ignition switch on the steering column is new, and the truck will not start. when i turn the key lights on the dash come on but nothing else. it used to be a off and on problem that got worse in cold weather but now nothing. if you have any suggestions on the problem please help?
When you say it "doesn't start", do you mean that the starter doesn't engage and turn the engine....or do you mean that the starter turns the engine over but the engine won't fire up and run?
START DIE - START DIE -- ....I am posting this because it was a problem I had on my 99 suburban that I think I have finally solved. It seemed like it was tied to altitude, weather. etc. so I never expected this solution. I replaced the security theft module (reads the code in the keys) and it appears the problem is solved after all these years. Apparently minor changes in weather or altitude affected the circuitry. They are not cheap, about $180.00 (module only) but it is well worth not being stranded now.
Thanks I was looking for reg8 your problem sounded just like the problem I was having.This week it will be going to the dealer to have the security theft module replaced. Thanks for the information have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
I have a 1997 Suburban and the power seat fwd/rvs function quit working after I took it to a "professional" car wash where it was vacuumed, detailed, etc. The seat worked fine before, but now it just "whirs" as the switch is cycled either way. Front and rear tilts still work fine as does the lumbar inflator. Anything I could look for to fix it myself? I am a tall guy and TG it broke when fully back, but I do need the functionality of the seat.
My 95 GMC 7.4 ltr Suburban was running fine and died as I was changing the air cleaner filter and won't start again. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump and am showing good pressure. The motor will start with a little gas poured down thwe TBI unit but dies right away as the prime is burned off. I replaced the ignition module in the distributer too. I have voltage to the (2) injectors in the TBI unit but they are not firing when I crank the motor. I can make them fire manually with a small 12v battery so the injectors do work.
I'm not sure what to check next; I thought I maight have grounded something with the air cleaner housing or knocked something loose. I'm not getting any codes either. maybe bad crank sensor or ???
I just had the shaft replaced on my '04 burb at no cost and out of warranty. It mad a thunking noise every time you hit a bump. They seem to be having a problem with these.
180K on my 1996 C1500, 4WD. I had the brake booster replaced at ~150K and I changed out the master cylinder a couple months ago. Before replacing the master cylinder, the pedal would travel to the floor with multiple pedals pushes. There were no signs of brake fluid loss either from the resevoir or at the wheels.
I replaced the master cylinder but now the pedal is very difficult to depress. Hopefully, the booster didn't fail already. But, when purchasing the master cylinder, the parts shop said to look at the Service Parts ID sticker to determine JB6 or JB7. I found the sticker, but I didn't find where it identified JB6 or 7. Comparing the two visually, there was virtually no difference.
If I put the incorrect one on, could this result in increased resistance for the brake pedal? Also, can I use the VIN to validate if it's a JB6 or 7 and if so, how?
i have an older sub its an 88 and i was wondering if someone could tell me what kind of transmission i have.
from experience, the 700r4 trannys have been unreliable and are not durable. i have a 2500 suburban, that has towed an 11 thousand pound trailer for the past 5 years up and down the mountains probably 2 times a month. the transmission is original and it is still rock solid at 200,000 miles. i noticed it looked different than the 700r4 i had in another suburban.
Your computer or the "main brain" may have fried. My 91 Bronco did the exact same thing as you described, and it ended up being the computer. Expensive fix, though.
Most older suburbans have either the TH400 or TH350 tranny, both 2 and 4 wheel drive. The way to tell is the shape of the pan, or the placement of the modulator valve. On the Th350, the modulator valve is located on the passenger side of the transmission next to the tail shaft and in line with the trans, on the TH400 it is located on the passenger side as well, however it is perpendicular to the trans. and forward of the tail shaft
Here is my problem. I have an '03' Surburban with 65,000 miles on it. I have an intermitten problem when I hit a bump it seems like my vehicle shuts off and turns on momentarily. Sometimes the door locks just cycle and sometimes the check engine light goes on and off, ABS light comes on and off, brake warning light goes on and off, service brake system flashes across my odometer and chimeing like I just started the vehicle. I also lose power for a second. Sometimes the ABS light and brake warning light stays on. My brakes work fine and the brake warning light goes out when I shut off and restart the vehicle, then after running awhile the ABS clears. At least till I hit another bump. Any thoughts where to start? It seems to be a loose electrical connection. Checked ths grounds off of the engine and it isn't loose. I also had the seat heaters on when it did this and they turned off. No OBD codes.
What I had earlier thought was the Service Parts ID Sticker under the hood was not. The Service Parts ID sticker is located on my 96 Sub in the bottom of the glove box. There are a number of codes on this sticker that are all sorted alphnumerically. In my case, I installed a JB7 and should have installed a JB6, which is the likely cause for the difficultly in pressing the brakes.
i have a 96 gmc 1500, i notice the light on the dash (p) was on. i thought it was my emer.brake, but when i checked my brake fluid there was none in it , so i filled it back up, started my truck went down the road and stopped, i then noticed the fluid running out bad it looks like it was near the gas tank alot of fluid in the frame. any ideas?
I have a 94 Suburban with 5.7, automatic, & 174,000mi. Recently the ignition system has taken to intermittently cutting out (no spark). It can happens at anytime and under any driving condition. The engine will stop, and after sitting for a short period of time will start up. Sometimes it will continue to run with no further problems and other times it will shut down again after driving just a short distance. The most persistent thing that usually happens, but not 100% of the time, is that once it starts it will immediately cut out the instant I take it out of PARK. This may not always happen but it's the only constant, since driving or engine conditions appear to be irrelevant. Before this problem started I had planned on doing a complete tune-up, which included a new distributor and coil. That has since been completed and upon starting the engine up following the ignition overhaul it immediately shut down when taken out of PARK. No OBD Codes.
the ignition switch can ware out over time a create a short or cut the power off at times.I would start by replacing the ignition switch I know they do go bad
I'm not sure if a 94 - 5.7L with TBI even has a crankshaft position sensor. And why would the engine, when it does start, run fine until I take it out of Park or sometimes continue to run fine in gear until it mysteriously quits?
Man this is tough without codes. One hardly knows where to start. I'm wondering if a defective fuel pressure regulator could cause this? This regulator is part of the fuel meter cover assembly.
I'm going to give the ignition switch a try first. It's an easy and cheap fix if that's all it is. I did determine that it's definately lack of spark that kills it. I'm lucky I have a 93 Silverado I can swap parts with to experiment, although that's having a running rich problem at the moment that no one can seem to figure out. That's next on the list to fix.
I definately miss the days of carbs and no computers.
running rich could have to do with your fuel pressure you need the proper fuel pressure for the car to run right. find what the pressure should be and then check it on the car
Comments
Also, big blocks especially had a habit of of breaking the exhaust bolts that keep the manifold on the head. Those bolts get red hot and if they aren't made of the right steel alloy they get brittle and break. Chevy used some bad ones for a while.
I'm not convinced your power problem and the ticking sound are related.
G'luck.
1offroader
Thanks
The fuel gauge on your vehicle is integrated with the fuel pump, and is worn to the point of being defective. In essense, it is giving you a false reading at 1/4 tank, and the tank is close to empty. As you mentioned, adding a couple of gallons of fuel cures the problem temporarily.
A replacement pump from a dealer will be about $490, and around $350 aftermarket. I located the correct pump on eBay for $279 and had it installed for $200. A far cry from a dealer quote of $900. Check ebay@conquestauto.com for a new AC Delco pump [factory]. 90% of all Suburbans are flex-fuel, which means the more expensive pump, part #MU1379. If your truck is a 'Z' code it is flex-fuel.
Since the pump is still operable, I recommend you keep the pump in your vehicle for those cross-country jaunts . . . you'll never find a flex-fuel pump in the middle of America when you need one! Incidentally, since the fuel pump is located in the tank, the only thing that cools the pump is the fuel. Keeping at least 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank at all times is the best way to extend the life of the pump . . . and you know you always have a little reserve for an emergency. I've tried to convey that message to others in the household to no avail!
Good luck!
Sirfile
Shut off the engine if it was running and then bang on the bottom of the tank with your fist. If you don't shut if off, it banging won't fix it. For this reason I think that the fuel screen in the tank is becoming clogged and stopping the fuel flow lets the debris fall off. Mine may have started when I used fuel that had been in my boat tank. I've used lots of dry gas and sulfur cleaner and replaced filters to try to fix it.
Those who have replaced pumps probably had their tanks emptied and that would clear out debris. I'm just going to live with it. I haven't been able to get a hose into the tank to suck it out. It's not a bad idea to keep your tank 1/2 full anyhow. If I drove hills and fast highways and heavy loads a lot I'd probably dump the tank.
I've posted before on this condition.
Tell us what you do.
air conditioning pump load. Might be a loose tensioner or bad pump.
Thanks
They replaced some type of air control valve and added insulation. Just got it back tonight. Since no one was sitting in the passenger seat, I don't know if it's fixed. Wife and kids and I will be driving the burb a 100 miles or so tomorrow, so I'll find out for sure then.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Carl
I did find a small tubing up on the canister, that a mouse had eaten thru. I fixed that connection, and hadn't heard the noise in about a month before I traded it in on a 2007 model.
Carl
Good luck.
Thanks in advance to any replies or help.
My 95 GMC 7.4 ltr Suburban was running fine and died as I was changing the air cleaner filter and won't start again. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump and am showing good pressure. The motor will start with a little gas poured down thwe TBI unit but dies right away as the prime is burned off. I replaced the ignition module in the distributer too. I have voltage to the (2) injectors in the TBI unit but they are not firing when I crank the motor. I can make them fire manually with a small 12v battery so the injectors do work.
I'm not sure what to check next; I thought I maight have grounded something with the air cleaner housing or knocked something loose. I'm not getting any codes either. maybe bad crank sensor or ???
Any help or diection greatly appreciated.
:confuse:
I replaced the master cylinder but now the pedal is very difficult to depress. Hopefully, the booster didn't fail already. But, when purchasing the master cylinder, the parts shop said to look at the Service Parts ID sticker to determine JB6 or JB7. I found the sticker, but I didn't find where it identified JB6 or 7. Comparing the two visually, there was virtually no difference.
If I put the incorrect one on, could this result in increased resistance for the brake pedal? Also, can I use the VIN to validate if it's a JB6 or 7 and if so, how?
from experience, the 700r4 trannys have been unreliable and are not durable. i have a 2500 suburban, that has towed an 11 thousand pound trailer for the past 5 years up and down the mountains probably 2 times a month. the transmission is original and it is still rock solid at 200,000 miles. i noticed it looked different than the 700r4 i had in another suburban.
any ideas?
any ideas?
Thanks
Man this is tough without codes. One hardly knows where to start. I'm wondering if a defective fuel pressure regulator could cause this? This regulator is part of the fuel meter cover assembly.
I'm lucky I have a 93 Silverado I can swap parts with to experiment, although that's having a running rich problem at the moment that no one can seem to figure out. That's next on the list to fix.
I definately miss the days of carbs and no computers.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks