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Mitsubishi Diamante Maintenance and Repair

13

Comments

  • danno4danno4 Posts: 10
    It doesn't look like too many people use this forum anymore but here goes. I have a 1992 Diamante with 150,000 miles on it and it has an intermittent A/C problem. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't . When it works it is very cold so I assume the refridgerant is okay. I did have the car with me when I was stationed in Bahrain (middle east) and it started doing it then. The Mitsubishi dealer there told me it was the A/C controller so I found one thru an internet junk dealer and tried it and it do any good, the symtoms changed, so I got another one and that didn't do any good either. Short of taking it back to a dealer, anyone have any ideas as to what it might be.

    Dan
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,331
    I'd certainly check the refrigerant level. If it drops to a certain pressure, it will turn off the AC compressor clutch.

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  • danno4danno4 Posts: 10
    Okay , I'll check that but I assumed (I know ) that if the refrigerant was low , I wouldn't get cold air when it does come on. I'll check it though and get back to you. Thanks.
    Dan
  • 97diamante97diamante Posts: 11
    The system has a dual pressure switch. It senses both too low a pressure AND too high a pressure. On very hot days the pressure can get very high and shut the compressor down for a while. On colder days the pressure tends to be lower and the low pressure function will shut the compressor down for a while.
    Of course the design should cope with temperature extremes.

    IF the expansion valve is contaminated or there is some moisture in the system, you can have a good low pressure reading on your fill gauges, but when the day is hot, the expansion valve becomes too restricted and the compressor pressure rises too much. Bang, it shuts down.
    Conversely, if you lower the pressure by bleeding to avoid this over-pressure, then on cooler days the low pressure switch does its thing.

    Sounds like you need COMPETENT professional help. :cry:
  • bill208bill208 Posts: 9
    Needs replacing. $385 at the dealer. Checking at autopartswarehouse there are different locations before/after catalytic, left/right front, left/right rear. From 50 to 300$ How do I tell what's what?
  • bill208bill208 Posts: 9
    Thanks. The competent professional help is pay $385 and we will fix it. In checking online, autopartswarehouse.com there are 30+ versions (from $74-$370) of the sensor depending on where it's located before/after catalytic, right/left. I know it's got to be easy to replace and I used to wrench cars before they became so computerized. If I'm looking into the engine compartment is the right side the drivers side or is it opposite that as if you are sitting in the drivers seat?
    Thanks
  • bill208bill208 Posts: 9
    Dano4,
    Thanks. Is there more than one sensor on the Daimante VR X 2002 or am I over thinking this?
  • mdc4mdc4 Posts: 2
    I've not noticed this in the past but recently each time I'm driving on a fairly curvy highway, my Diamante feels like it's going to swerv out of control on tight left hand curves. It never does this on right hand turns at all. I've had the tires rotated but that didn't seem to improve anything. Any ideas would sure be appreciated.... Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,331
    Well you're loading up the right side suspension and it apparently is not happy. So I'd be looking at a blown right side strut/shock, a severe misalignment issue or a worn suspension part such as ball joint, tie rod, etc.

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  • Actually, I can tell you exactly what it is. It is the rear knuckle-bushings.
    They are a typical wear part on these cars, and only these cars.. I know, it sucks.. but also know that if you do not repair these you will tear through tires like nobody’s business..
    Unfortunately, you have to go to the stealership for repair, or a specific mits guy, otherwise they will mis-diagnose you with, alignment, shocks/struts, bearings, and the like. I think it ran me about $350-$400 (us) and that included an alignment.
    good-luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,331
    OH YEAH--I didn't think about that. Cadillac owners know all about bad knuckle bushings and the symptoms. (I assume you mean bushing on the A-arms?)

    You could be right. If those are worn, they could have those effects.

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  • I HAVE A MITSUBISHI DELMONTE.IT STARTED LIKE THIS,MY SCANNER COULD SEE A\C SWITCH AND A\C COMPRESSOR ACTIVE WHEN I PUSH THE BOTTON IN BUT NO OPERATION TO COMPRESSOR CLUTCH.I CAN ENERGIZE GROUND SIGNAL AT COMPRESSOR RELAY BUT STILL HAVE NO COMPRESSOR OPERATION,THEN I NOTICED A\C LIGHT BLINKING.IS THER NA RPM SENSOR ON THIS MODEL OR AM I OFF TRACK.ITIS FULL OF FREON.ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED ,THANKS
  • I parked my 2003 Diamante VR-X in the garage for a week and went to start yesterday but was unsuccessful. I thought the battery had drained (or died) but that was unlikely because I had just put in a new battery 2 weeks back. I jump started the car and the lights came on. The car started. When I disconnected the jumper cables the car made funny sound - like it was struggling to stay running - and stopped running almost immediately. Has anyone out there had similar experience. Can someone help me with what the problem could be? Thanks.
  • Code came up on my 99 diamante. Took off the timing belt covers and noticed that it seems ( according to the length of the wires on the new one ) that it seems to go into the block about an inch and a half. maybe im not seeing it right, but have tried to replace it a couple of times and cant seem to figure it out. Maybe someone out there has done it before and can give me a hint. Please dont tell me the crank has to come out! lol Also looking for a helping hand on ditailed info on how to replace timing belt. doiturself
  • Ive got a 99 and when I went to change out the rear rotors they wouldnt budge. Maybe you will laugh when u hear this..... but on mine there were two extra holes in the area where the rotor slips on to the housing on oppisite sides of each other. Got a hair up my butt and treated it as though it was a steering wheel. I put two bolts that would fit into the threads and tightened them EQUALLY so it forcably pulled the rotor off the housing. I beat on the rotor for half an hour before trying this and it wouldnt budge. Dont know first hand if yours has the same extra holes in them but its worth a try instead of damaging something
  • dude that clicking is coming from the temp ajuster switch behind the ash tray under the dash. its got nothing to do with the fan
  • tribe1tribe1 Posts: 2
    there are four o2 sensors... 2 in the front of the engine, one before and after the cat.
  • Never buy lifetime pads,which is cheaper to replace ,the pads or the rotors!
  • We have a 2003 Diamante LS and the windows have started fogging up. I've read a little about heater cores possibly being the culprit. Can someone give a definitive answer? We're trying to sell it (less than 40k miles) and I'd like to put this issue to bed. Thanks!
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    I've got a '93 waggy that hasn't run for a couple years, originally stopped when the 4th/OD clutches went out. Just never made time to work on it, but I've decided it needs to go. V6-3.0L

    This weekened I jump started it and don't think it's getting fuel. The engine does turn over. If I spray ether into plenum I can get it to fire momentarily, so I believe it's got spark.

    Disconnected the fuel line which runs from fuel filter at the front fuel rail and cranked, but don't see any fuel coming out. I'd like to jumper the fuel pump and make sure the pump is good and not clogged up. I've got a 92-96 factory service manual but it seems to deal with the dohc engines, and I can't correlate the pics it shows with my engine compartment.

    I believe there is supposed to be a connector in the engine compartment that you can hook +12v to test the pump, but can't seem to find it.

    On a possibly related note, the fuel gauge is registering empty, even though I've added 10 gallons of fuel to it. I've been trying to read up and think that there is a relay that may power both the fuel pump and fuel gauge, but again, I'm not sure where this would be located.

    Does anyone have any pointers on location of the FP relay, FP test connection or good advice?

    Thanks!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,331
    not quite that easy. The multiport Fuel Injection Relay is located behind the glove box, and while it very well could be the cause of your problem, it requires a series of tests with a voltmeter, and a diagram of the various pins on the relay. One wrong move and you fry the whole thing.

    I would suggest that you take out a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com for your car as it has all the diagrams and test procedures you need. I think it's $29 bucks for everything.

    Or if you can find a used relay on eBay you can try to fix it that way.

    There is indeed a "Fuel Pump Drive Terminal" to which you can apply battery voltage but the diagrams to not locate it, just show a picture of it (that's useless!).

    I think a scan tool can easily power the pump as well. The pump appears to be in the fuel tank.

    That's all I got for you at this time.

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  • aldhumanaldhuman Posts: 1
    the connector is located in the driver side, just over your knee when you put your foot on the gas pedstal, exactly underneath the temprature gauge in the dash on the right side of the driver section.
  • 1steven1steven Posts: 2
    Hi guys! I've got a 2003 Diamante that I need to adjust the headlights on. I found the up & down screw for the low beams and what appears to be a large and small gear to control L & R. But nothing happens when I move the geared wheel. And I don't seem to find any high beam adjustment. Also what bulbs do you recommend for giving the best light output distance? THANKS!! :confuse:
  • robodsrobods Posts: 1
    I am about to replace my ac compressor. Does anyone have the procedure for this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,331
    Before you start, do you have the means to capture the AC refrigerant, and do you have the proper safety equipment?

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  • 377paul377paul Posts: 15
    The high and low beams are in one housing so you can't adjust them separately! The L/R gear you mentioned works for about 3-4 years and then the small gear starts slipping on the shaft. Use a thin screwdriver to reach the lower gear directly for L/R adjustment.
  • jenlassjenlass Posts: 1
    We have had a time with our '99 Diamante. The battery and brake indicators simultaneously began to come on. Strangely, I've discovered that they come on when the car decelerates and will disappear with acceleration. Had the battery (which was new), alternator and starter checked. Told that the battery (only 2 months old) was bad. Didn't believe it was possible, until we took the car on a long trip, only to have it break down, with the battery fuming/smoking and battery acid everywhere. Replaced the battery and finished the trip. Incidentally, we were told that the terminal needed to be replaced. Came back into town and before I could replace the terminal, it broke down and I had to tighten terminal and get jumped off. Fortunately, made it directly to a shop and had the terminal replaced. My problem- I thought this might correct the issue of the battery/brake indicators coming on, but it hasn't. I don't know what is causing this issue and furthermore, I'm afraid that it will inevitably lead to the breakdown again, as we had on our trip previously. Any ideas??
  • I have the same exact problem. It started with a bad battery terminal connection, and
    after I fixed that I hoped the battery would start charging reliably again, but to my dismay it still happens. There is still a 50/50 chance my battery will die on the road on any trip longer than 20 minutes. I now keep a battery charger with me at all times. My mechanic could not recreate the problem and of course can't figure it out, and the alternator tests good, along with the starter, and battery. PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME!!!!!
  • I have a 1999 Mits Diamante that was pulling around turns and shaking at speeds around 50 to 60 mph. This was driving my wife crazy because it wasnt doing it all the time just on hard turns.
    Replaced rotors and new tires before I figured out what it was.
    Rear driver side knuckle bushing. Take tire off and give a good pull and shake. You will feel it nice and loose in one direction.
    You have to call the dealership for the part.I searched all over online for a better deal with no luck. $60.28 shipped with ca 10% tax from dealership. ref # 33026C on their rear axle hub & drum diagram they should be able to find it off that.
    Hope this help someone out
  • jlticknorjlticknor Posts: 1
    I had a strange situation come up with my car today. The TCL off light is always on, the other day it flashed a couple times till I hit the TCL off button.
    Afterwards today when I shut my car off, I could hear a slight hum coming from the engine I thought maybe it was the fan and payed no real attention to it. However coming out of the movies my car barely started. When I got the car home I noticed it was still running.
    Popped the hood and upon inspecting a bit more I noticed it was the TCL box continiously running.

    Has anyone had this problem/know what to do about it? Thank you
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