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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • rotondorotondo Member Posts: 4
    On two differant occasions I paid $1003.00. My back lines went out 4 weeks before my front lines. Now I think I have leaks in my transmission line to the radiator. I think Chevrolet should help with these costs. My 2000 has only 36,000 miles on it has only been in the snow about 3 times.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    $1003.00 twice, I can buy 4- 500.00 junkers to run til the wheels fall off, and they will STILL probably outlive a Chevy truck for that price. NO OFFENSE, My chevy has a ruined front bumper and skirt, already, from brake failure, so i have NO intention of replacing the lines. When they blow, i'll just get a load of cow manure, fill the bed, and have a small tomato patch in the back of the thing. I call this thing the "Flower Pot" anyway !!
  • madmichaelmadmichael Member Posts: 1
    Hey Jim, I stumbled on your post here looking for a solution to abs light. I have read a lot of your post and I feel your pain. Although I have owned my 2001 gmc 2500 hd going on 10 years now. I have paid dearly to keep it on the road with hard earned money and a lot of grief. I hope you know, gm is not the only manufacture that dose not care about having repeat customers. Especially if those customers want to keep their vehicles more then two years. You should google Nissan transmission complaints. Here is one I found http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/nissan_frontier.html
    I hope the xterra you bought doesn't cost you more than it is worth. Apparently the 05 -07 (maybe other years, I read so many I got depressed and had to quite) frontiers, xterras and pathfinders have problems with the radiator leaking coolant into the transmission cooling lines causing total transmission failure to the point they are not repairable. From what I read it is about 5k - 6k for new radiator and transmission.
    According to what I read, Nissan doesn’t care that their customers are having to pay for their mistakes also, or that they may loose their life. I guess as long as the ceo and the rest of the corporate yahoos makes there millions the hell with customer. They’re more suckers born everyday ;[
    Toyota makes there share of blunders also but from what I have read they own up to some of them (google Tacoma frame complaints) .
    Lucky for us consumers, we have the internet to warn others and to learn from other lessons.
    Maybe these manufactures will figure out they need to stand behind their vehicles and customers or they end up just like there vehicles, in the scrap pile.
    I apologize for the rant. I really just wanted to warn you about your xterra and thank you for your post.

    Regards
    Mad Michael
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    When engineering a part or system that affects life safety, engineers are trained to apply high factor of safety level ( 3x+). As an engineer, you are also trained to design so that that there is not a sudden failure without warning ( seeping is one thing, a bursting line is another). Metal brake lines affect life safety and selecting the proper metal for the your application (e.g. NE states that utilize salt on roads on which the said vehicle is expected to travel) is not that complex. Failing brake lines within 40,000 miles or just one year out of warranty is a complete failure of engineering or the unfortunate result of poor failure mode analysis when cost cutting. Ignoring the problem after real life data proves the mistake is worse. It demonstrates clear lack of responsibility or a total failure of the organization if employees are not empowered to act upon such an obvious failure. This isn't a radio that is failing, it is people's SAFETY!

    Mechanical and earlier than expected failures occur, but when it comes to lives, a totally different approach is expected. Purposeful ignorance of this issue by GM Customer Service is proof that the organizational failure within still exists today.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    You could not of said it better. I haven't heard of any one being killed or injured, but I was lucky that I was pulling into a parking spot with a metal guard rail to stop me when my brakes failed. One would think being there was a recall for the brake sensors not working, GM would have gone farther to make things right. I know they read these post, as they did contact me thru this forum, but in the end, they would not do anything, unless I paid for it.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Thanks for the heads up. I have a great friend that is a certified FORD trained mechanic. I'll get him to go with me when i pick up the Nissan (only costing me 1000.00), and get him to run the computer to see what comes up. Luckily, i havent paid the guy anything yet, but am supposed to soon. He's a friend too, and is holding it for me with no money down. Says that the trans. worked fine til he put a new timing chain (?) on it, and then 2nd gear started acting up, so maybe its got the wrong timing belt/chain on it.

    I do appreciate the words of warning, i'll check into that.

    Ya know, the complete truth is, i've owned Chevy trucks since i graduated high school in 1979, at least half a dozen or more. I really, REALLY, like the old Chevy trucks, from 1987 back til 77' . Mind you, their bodies did rust out pretty bad, but they would last FOREVER, and you could actually work on them YOURSELF!! But when GM decided to make them where you couldnt work on them yourself, and make them cheaper, so they could jack up the prices, and pay their UNION employees over 20.00 an hour, GM went to S--t. They are no different than ALL the other car companies. Like my dad used to say- "PUT EM' ALL IN A BAG, SHAKE EM' UP, AND SHAKE EM' OUT- AND YOU CANT TELL THEM APART- THAT ALL LOOK THE SAME".

    Myself included, AMERICANS (most of us anyways) are getting FAT and LAZY, and we want it EASY. We can only blame ourselves for letting GM and all the other companies stick it to us, because we take what we get, instead of saying NO, and turning our backs. In 1979 you could buy a SILVERADO brand new for 8000.00, Today, thats not even a good downpayment!! HEY- WE ASKED FOR IT!! Thanks, JIM said that!!
  • ext2gtxext2gtx Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced rubber hoses to rotors.When i apply my brakes say a dozen time the pedal will get hard and the brakes will start to grabe and i have to pull over and bleed the brakes.Any ideas
  • woolymanwoolyman Member Posts: 5
  • woolymanwoolyman Member Posts: 5
    I gotta thank everyone who gave me input and helped me fix my rusted brake line prob. My 99 Silverado (249,000+ miles) lost brakes as I stopped at an exit at work (yes I'm lucky). Pep Boys quoted $3000 for the job (replace lines and calipers). Took me a long weekend, but I replaced the lines and calipers (bleed screws were jammed super tight and rounded off) and it works like new. From this post someone gave me a sight that offered exact replacements (stainless lines and fittings) for $299 and the calipers were about $150. Then, because I'm not smart enough to make diagrams another person gave me an exact connection to the ABS controller. Bled the system and it's better than new. Found about 4 pin hole leaks in the old lines (most in tight spaces where I couldn't see them without the aid of mirror). Figured I saved about $2500, but lost a weekend.
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Member Posts: 7
    My Z71 has been having an on going ABS problem at low speeds. I thought it was a faulty wheel speed sensor. I replaced both sensors. Now the problem is more consistent. It kicks in at 5 mph everytime. The truck has New brakes all around, New Master cylinder, and a totaly flushed system. The one thing I was leaning tord replacing next is the Wheel Hubs. I did notice grease down inside the hole along the sensor trace. Is it normal to have alot of grease in there?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    Not sure about the grease, but your problem was/is the same as mine, same truck, 2002. I did what you have done and replaced the hubs. I replaced the hubs because the bearings went bad at 95,000 mile. That did nothing to help for the brake problem. I finally took the ABS fuse out as a suggestion from a mechanic. Not a problem since I did 2 yrs/20k miles ago. The ABS light will come on. It even passes the tuff PA state inspection with that way. I will say, I do not have the brake line failure problem others have. Mine was all in the ABS.
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks.. Ive done that for the last week. I am concered about the NY state Insp. I would like to get the problem fixed however if I have to drive with the ABS and Brake light on I will. Its just frustrating.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Jim here, Just wanted to say that the grease your having in the sensor trace is reminescent of a bad wheel bearing. That bad wheel bearing is what is confusing the abs sensor at 5 mph. My wheel bearing was bad enough to confuse the abs sensor, but not bad enough to notice a wobble.
    Might be a good idea to check that bearing before you lose a wheel, or brakes. Like i posted many times, i had to hit a BIG yello pole at Lowes, to keep from ramming a car in the parking lot, due to NO BRAKES.
    Good luck. Welcome to the JOYS of CHEVY OWNERSHIP!!
    Jim said that!!
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I did not have any problem with PA state inspection with the ABS light on. If you do, just simply put the fuse back in. Like Jim said, check the wheel bearing for wobble. I had to replace mine for bad bearings,. It went bad with no warning. One day fine, the next day loud noise and I could feel it in the steering. It just didn't help the ABS problem.

    Has pulling the fuse helped ? I noticed the better braking right away.
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for all the help. I did notice a lot better braking with the fuse pulled. I haven't noticed any abnormal pulling or noise yet from the truck. The truck has been great for me. Its ten years old now and I really haven't had to do anything to it. Hopefully it will hold out for another ten years. Thanks again for the help. I will keep you posted.
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Member Posts: 7
    I changed the wheel hubs. before I did I noticed a load wheel noise from the front end that started around 40 mph. It almost sounded like I was driving with mud tires. It took me three hours to do both sides. It took about twenty min with an air chisel to get the hubs off. If someone was to try to do this at home, you will need a 55 torx, 15 mil , 18 mil, 33 mil (4x4 models), a torque wrench that will reach 177 FT LBs, and a chisel with a big hammer or air. The hubs do not like to come off with out a fight! Thank you all for the help. My ABS problem is fixed. The new sensers I put in a month ago are toast. The drivers side was cooked. the plasic was melted and the target was covered in grease. Its nice to drive the truck with no lights on the dash. Thanks again for the help
  • jcmoore2jcmoore2 Member Posts: 7
    sorry I meant 36 mil not 33.
  • sjc66sjc66 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    I have an 04 Sierra 1/2 ton and have braking issues as the truck does not want to stop like it should. I have replaced the rotors and pads and have function tested the calipers and everything seems to be working. The pedal has pressure and doesn't lose any pressure when braking so I'm thinking the master cylinder is fine. The wheel hubs all appear to be good and I don't have any lights on the dash or error codes indicating an ABS issue. Going to bleed the lines to see if that does anything. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    2002 silverado, problems starting at 4 yrs old and 95k.

    My problem was slightly different is that the pedal would pulsate as if ABS was activating causing the brakes to slightly loose pressure as if in a accident. After doing all you did, I finally pulled the ABS fuse and cure problem. If you want to see if that is the problem, pull the fuse and see if that helps. ABS light will come on but brakes work fine. Been that way for 4-5 yrs and 50k miles now.
  • ffej24mffej24m Member Posts: 2
    The initial problem was the truck shuddering while stopping so I changed the front rotors and pads to slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic bads. This did nothing to stop the shuddering, so I took it to the GM dealer and had it diagnosed they claimed the front rotors were warped "extremely hard to believe" i asked the dealer to check the runout and make sure before turning these new rotors. After turning the rotors this still didn't help the shuddering. Dealer did more investigation and came to the conclusion that the back brakes were work out and sticking, so those were changed and the drums turned. Still didn't help the shuddering so the dealer now believes a belt has come loose in the tire and I need to take them back to the tire shop. So back to the tire shop and talked to the tech there, he explained they have an '05' that was doing the exact same thing and its the rear brake shoe's grabbing and he didn't know why. He clamped off my rear brake lines to remove the rear brakes from the system and we tried driving the truck again, this time no shuddering. So took the truck back to the dealer and told him what we found. Dealer did some investigating and found that GM has seen this problem before and that the cause is the center hole in the drum is larger than the flange on the rear axle that it fits over and the drum is not going on perfectly square so when you hit the brakes one shoe is grabbing and the other isn't therfore causing the shuddering. To fully determine if this is the case the dealer will need the truck for 8 hours to mic everything and document it "what do they need the truck for the next 6 hours for?". GM's fix is to replace the axels and all brake hardware to correct the issue.
    Has anyone else heard of this or had this problem - or is the dealer full of BS?
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    ffej24m,
    It's great that your dealership has narrowed down the potential cause of your shuddering to the drums. We'd be happy to follow up on anything for you if you like; please get in touch via email at [email protected] if we can look into this further (include your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hey, gmcustsvcsarah, you need to read post 500 AGAIN. GM didnt narrow down the potential cause of the shuddering!! GM was TOTALLY in the dark, and couldnt figure it out, after turning a BRAND NEW set of rotors on the front, working on the back, and as usual- finally BLAMING IT ON THE TIRE MAN.
    The way i read it, not only did the TIRE MAN "narrow down the potential cause", He figured it out, which turned out to be a "MANUFACTURERS DEFECT", WHICH STATED IN 500 GM stated that they had "SEEN THAT PROBLEM BEFORE".

    AS usual, GM builds faulty trucks, then blames everyone else when they cant figure out what they did wrong!! DEFECT- I DONT SEE NO STINKIN DEFECT!! WELCOME TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF OWNING A PIECE OF CRAP GM PRODUCT- HATEFUL JIM SAID THAT !!
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful JIM here- If I was you, I believe i would make GM buy me another set of FRONT AND REAR drums, seeing as how they turned both down, and cut off perfectly good wear on a set of drums that DIDNT NEED TO BE TURNED. NICE to know that GM is sooooooo good to experiment on your truck, AT YOUR EXPENCE, when they have NO IDEA what they're doing, or WHAT the problem is HUH??

    SURE AM GLAD I BOUGHT A CHEVY, AND NOT ONE OF THOSE D--NED FOREIGN JOBS THAT LAST A LIFETIME. I SURE SAVED ALOT OF MONEY BUYING AMERICAN, wait a minute, that dont make any sense, forget i said that. Have a great day, Hateful Jim said that!!
  • ididluvchevytkididluvchevytk Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 chevy pickup, i have a six inch lift on it. Im having break problems soft pedal, pedal hits the ground changed all parts except rotars,calipers,break lines. Before problem my break master cylinder was contaminated, My fluid was green changed all bleed the system and still having problems, Can anyone help or heard of a fix to this problem.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    Mine had contaminated fluid too, never could figure how that happened. Go back some more posts, a few different answers, mine was ABS system went bad, After I changed everything, end up pulling out ABS fuse. no problems since, 3 yrs ago.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    If you have a hydroboost system, have you bled that? You have to lift the front of the truck in the air and turn the steering wheel back and forth about 20 times. You'll need to check if the engine needs be on or off. Worked for me, though my pedal would get soft again after a few months. Heck, it came off the dealers lot with a soft pedal. Never had good brakes on my 03.
  • stoneybrokestoneybroke Member Posts: 83
    My 2002 Siverado Z71 4wd with 70k on the odo now has the infamous anti-lock shudder, caused by corrosion. I pulled the fuse as a temporary fix, before the truck kills me or someone else. Called the local dealer, who also services my CTS wagon. Their response: TS, the recall was done in 2006 and GM has no further responsibility for their crappy design. I had a out of warranty issue with a Toyota T-100 at 77,000 miles. The alloy wheels were blistering from the salt used on PA roads. Toyota paid to have all four wheels powder coated.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    That type of response is highly disappointing. What type of corrosion caused the issue?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    That is exactly what they told me !
  • ffej24mffej24m Member Posts: 2
    Sarah,

    Its unfortunate that I had to not only diagnose the problem for them but had to prove it to them as well. But on the good side they did fix the issue under warrenty and now my truck stops like a brand new truck.
  • stoneybrokestoneybroke Member Posts: 83
    My Chevy brake issues and my Toyota wheel corrosion were both caused by salt used on winter roads in PA.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Well yes of course! They have a salt spray booth at GM, I know, I worked there. Guess why it is there? To properly test and design vehicles that will be exposed to salt. This is especially important for truck sold with a PLOW package (no one buys plow packages in the south) that weighs in at 7,000lb with a plow. But when those brake lines rot out within a 4 years, literally grow corrosion right up tot the master cylinder, and the don't seep, but suddenly burst, you have an engineering problem there! The wrong steel composition was designed or purchased or there was poor quality control. Based on how some of these trucks rusted, there may have even been some level of electrolysis as in my 35 years of driving cars in the NE. Here we use more salt than PA, I have never seen a vehicle do this so quickly. Engineered wrong, and GM ignored the safety of their customer in my book. With all due respect, if your new boat sunk in the water due to a hull defect, would you blame the water?
  • terrybillterrybill Member Posts: 6
    You do not need a lot of salt to corrode Chevy's brake lines. I bought my Silverado new in 2004 in Cincinnati and seldom drove it in winter. Yet my brake lines had total failure in 2009 with 48,000 miles. GM customer service did nothing, saying one should expect this living in the north. Cost me $1,300 to fix. I've had Fords, Mazdas and Chryslers none of which had any brake line rust over nearly 10 years and 100,000 plus miles each. Clearly, GM had a massive engineering faux pas with their brake lines.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    HATEFUL JIM here- I try not to say too much, but sometimes, i just cant resist to put my 2 cents in. All i can say here is Hey- WE DID TO OUR SELVES- You really cant blame GM, They've got a free ticket to build the worst trucks in the world, THEY ARE BACKED BY THE US GOVERNMENT!! Most Americans back the unions that make sure the union workers get paid massive paychecks, WAY MORE THAN MOST OF US, and then we fork over the cost of a brick home, for a disposable tin can on wheels. AS LONG AS WE'RE STUPID ENOUGH TO BUY NEW TRUCKS, THEY WILL BE WILLING TO STICK IT TO US!! HEY- I'LL NEVER buy a new truck again, from now on, i'll go from 1 500.00 truck to the next. Have a real good day, Just remember, drive a CHEVY, and you can spit thru the floorboard, drive an import, and you can ride forever. Hateful jim said that.
  • joeincalifjoeincalif Member Posts: 3
  • joeincalifjoeincalif Member Posts: 3
    I'm buying a 2000 silverado 1500 to pull a travel trailer, The emergency brake pedal goes all the way down. (I don't know if it works or not, I didn't check that on the test drive). I guess there is a cable attached to it, so if the cable is broke how much of a job is it to replace it? Could it just be an adjustment maybe?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I got the ABS problem figured out 2 yrs ago, pull the ABS fuse. Yesterday the brake lines burst. I was at a place i could pull over. Just ordered new stainless steel line kit from Classic Tube . com. If you haven't; replaced them. Do it now. I was lucky. 2002- silverado 1500 4x4, @ 160000 miles.

    @joe in calif, The emergency brakes on these trucks suck too. The cable goes to a small set of aux brake pads on the rear wheel., I had mine totally redone at 125000 miles, it barley stopped me. If you buy or have bought the truck, check to see that all the total brake system(lines, sensors, master cyl, etc., everything) has been replaced or do it before you pull your trailer.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    edited August 2012
    I get radio static when my bug guard is installed. Remove the bug guard and static goes way. Put the guard back on a static returns. Static can be heard even with the sound system off. Reinstall the bug guard and it's back again. Any idea how to fix this w/o removing the bug guard? Thanks..... :confuse:
  • tonitocontonitocon Member Posts: 1
    something as simple as contaminated break fluid can cause similar symptoms and do some pretty evil things.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    Contaminated brake fluid ,good point. My master cyl reservoir fluid turned black after 5 yrs old and 85k miles, that's when my problems started. How would of this happen if it wasn't contaminated from factory ?
  • forresthforresth Member Posts: 34
    Sunday I went to start my truck. Put my foot on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. I pumped it a few times and there was no pressure increase. I found one place near left rear wheel where the lines was corroded and leaking fluid. Had it towed to the dealer and they say it will cost $2750 in labor and $2700 in parts to fix. They say they need to replace all the brake lines and the fuel lines, and several other parts due to corrosion. They say it will take 3 to 4 days to fix. The labor is expensive because they have to drop the torsion bar cross member , the transfer case and the fuel tank. Weighing my options as the truck only has 19533 miles on it. KBB value is about $15 to $18k.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    Here is what I did... GM gets the lines from www.classictube.com, the exact same lines. They make them up special so it took 5 days to get parts.They are pre bent and fit exact. I purchased stainless steel lines, hoses and all mounting hardware for $450 for ALL the brake lines. I had my local mechanic do the work, his bill was $700 for labor, and it also needed all the backing plates, pads, rotors, 2 calibers that were rusted also, etc for a total bill of $1400 including labor. It took one day , but with 2 mechanics on it. He had to remove the cross member and gas tank but not the transfer case. Are your sure the gas lines are bad? I've only heard of just the brake lines. So I've got $1850 into it. But now your talking gas lines too. My truck is a 2002 with 165k,so figured it was cheaper cost VS new truck, plus I couldn't sell, trade or do anything with no brakes or get much for it anyway, l0l. The price of a tow to another shop could save you $1000+. I wish I got rid of it yrs ago, I've spent 6k on it since 100k miles. Keep me posted what you do., Good luck.
  • rotondorotondo Member Posts: 4
    I can't believe it should cost that much. I have a 2000 Silverado I had to get all my break lines renewed It cost me about $1800.00. I wouldn't take it to a dealer. Take it to a auto repair shop. I was thinking about a new Silverado but I have second thoughts. At least get a second opinion. My truck only had 36,000 miles on it never been in the snow or ice.
  • kevinchevykevinchevy Member Posts: 3
    I had to do the same thing last year, replaced the brake lines from one end to the other along with front calipers on my 2002 silverado1500HD. I have a mechanic friend who bent a higher grade brake line to fit. I think it came to less then $1000. Try and find a trust worthy mechanic as mention earlier.
    Are any of you also getting anti-lock coming on at low speed (5mph) braking? If not then that will be next on your list. I really like my truck but GM messed up a couple of things. Why they haven't done a recall on these braking systems seems a little short sighted, but I guess not enough crashes?
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    FACE IT- GM (Government Motors) is NOT going to do a recall- not now, not EVER!! They dont care if you get killed in one of their trucks, as long as you keep buying a GM product, if they go flat broke busted, The good ol USA will step in and give them the money to get back up again. Hateful Jim said that- Ya'll have a real good day.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    The anti lock is another problem too. They did a recall about 6 yrs ago,all they did was clean the wheel sensors,, that didn't work. Pull the ABS fuse , problem solved. Do it now, before you hit someone !! Jim is right, GM doesn't give a damn.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    edited October 2012
    Damn, I haven't been on this site in quite awhile but have done everything you have to your truck. My 2000 Silverado 2500LD (7200gvw) 5.3 auto.
    Rotors (I have 4 wheel disc) + one front and one rear caliper, ABS wheel sensors under the recall, brake lines front to rear. I was getting the 5mph ABS activation for awhile even after cleaning my new sensors. The problem seems to have "gone away" for now. If it reappears I'll pull the fuse and do it the old fashion way.
    Lets not talk about the 3 rear bumpers I have replaced and the huge hole on lower rockers do to the quality material GM uses, that's another issue. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:

    Ray T
  • kevinchevykevinchevy Member Posts: 3
    Ray - Did you get new or used bumpers? Mines getting a little wholy. I didnt know there was a recall on the sensors. Can I just bring it into the dealership?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Kevin,

    There is a GM customer service rep. (gmcustsvcsarah) monitoring this site so pose the question to her regarding the ABS wheel sensor recall issue. Give the last eight digits of your Vin# and email contact.
    The bumpers I bought new from Carolina Auto Supply (http://www.autosupplyhouse.com/) for around $129 BUT I had to go thru a friends business to buy since they do not sell to general public :( Try here http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog , I did a quick look up and they run around $160 on sale.

    Ray T :shades:
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    The GM rep contacted me thru this site. Set up an appointment for me to take truck to dealer. I called dealer and it was set up, BUT, I still had to pay for it !, just for them to look at truck. No repairs would be paid by GM so why would I go to dealer, pay service charge to tell me truck is crap? I called GM, and they were unaware of the person monitoring this site having any authority. Don't waste your time. It's just PR to make it look like they give a crap, but they don't. IF they did, we would see posts on here that they did help us and get our trucks fixed at GM's cost.
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