Ok will do. Lately the ignition has been sticking, I sometimes have a problem turning the key to lock position and pulling it out of the ignition, I'm wondering if it is related. I guess this is a pretty extensive job as you would have to open up the steering column. Sounds expensive, maybe I'll just wire the horn up so that it works off a different circuit just to get through inspection. It doesnt really bother me to have to jump the fuse block to open my rear hatch, I just leave it open most of the time, not latched comepletely. Thanks for the info!!! :sick:
Not that bad but need some tools and time and if that key is sticking you may soon be stuck going nowhere - easier to do it when you don't need to tow it in! Good luck.
Could this have something to do with an aftermarket alarm and remote start system? I bought the car used and it was already installed, I actually found this out while I was trying to find my short. I don't want it nor use it. Should I have it taken out or would that cause nore problems than it is worth?
Yes, that remote start capability can screw up the security system called Passlock. If a local shop put it in best it they take it out or for about $150 get a new one installed that will remove all the old stuff. Biggies like Circuit city and Best buy all guarentee them for as long as you own it and the remote locks are great - just the simple locks and alarm is all and got them put in two 98s with great results. 99 up came with remote entry.
Unforunatly, I have no previous history on the car. I bought it 2 years ago with 65,000 on it, now it hasa 98,000 on it, no other major problems except the fuel filler gasket. I guess there might be a sticker on the main brain of the system. I'll check into it. Thanks you have been a big help.
On my 99 2 door Blazer the rear hatch does not unlock. There is no sound of the actuator trying to work but you can her a clicking sound near the fuse box when the button on the remote is pressed. so, i have a feeling the actuator does work and that maybe the relay is dead. So far i have checked all the fuses and opened the back hatch manually and checked the mechanics. Everything looks ok and nothing is broken so i feel its electrical. I noticed a relay under the hood in a box with other relays and fuses that says rear glass. I have a feeling it may be bad and got a quote for one for 10 bucks. I cannot figure out how to remove it. Any ideas? also could the actuator be dead? It used to work but slowly failed says my dad. Lucky me that day was the same day he handed it to me.
I have a strange situation on my daughters 97 Blazer (4.3 liter V6, 4WD). Her fiancé and I pulled the motor to replace the crank shaft and bearings. He removed some of the basic items and disconnected the wiring. We then removed the motor, I rebuilt the bottom end and replaced the motor while he was at work. He finished up reinstalling the rest of the items and reconnected the wiring harness. When he reconnected the battery – nothing. No lights, horn, ignition etc. I traced the wires going from the battery to the starter, alternator and all was correct. However, there was a smaller diameter wire that connected to the battery with a factory quick connect which is too small a diameter to carry the vehicle electrical needs.
On the starter there are two wires, one to the solenoid and one large from the battery. Is there suppose to be another wire attached to the starter to transfer 12V to the rest of the car? If not where does the main juice from the battery to the chassis electrical connect? The main power block on the drivers side near the firewall has no power either.
That is either the hot lead to the ignition switch or believe it may go to the fusible link below the battery tray - all power runs thru that block under the battery tray.
My Daughter has a 97 Blazer. A couple of months ago she started having problems with the top circuit breaker in the fuse box. It controls the power locks and seats. It seemed to start when she adjusted her driver side seat. The circuit breaker becomes VERY hot and the locks or seats do not work until after you take the breaker out and it cools down. It will work for awhile until it gets too hot again. My wife has a 97 Bravada. Last night she was adjusting her power seat and it quit working. I checked the same circuit breaker as in the Blazer and it was red hot! Both vehicles now have the exact same symtoms and problem. Has anyone else heard of this problem or know what the fix is?
The wiring for the seat runs thru it by the back/bottom seat hinge and often gets cut/pinched and shorts or quits. Can take the switch out and possibily the motor too if a direct short. Have to pull seat out to get into it. Those parts are not cheap at GM!
I am having a similar problem, but I think it may be electrical. There is no noise when I press the hatch release and my power mirrors and power locks stopped working at the same time. But the locks still open when the remote is being used. Any ideas?
I bought a 96 chevy blazer 4x4 4dr about a year ago and got the motor rebuilt. Yesterday I had to replace the battery because it had a bad cell in it and Now when you connect the battery there is a VERY loud alarm That I never knew was there. How do I disarm it- there is NO buttons ANYWHERE :surprise:
Remove power to the alarm horn - its an aftermarket system mounted under the dash usually with an underhood added horn. You may be able to get it removed free if you buy a new system at circuitcity or bestbuy type places for $150 range - its spliced in.
I saw this and found that this helped and found that the plastic blue part had indeed broken off. I decided to search for the exact part and I finally found it (with lots of work I might add since the exact part name isn't on the net anywhere).
Window Actuator Rod Retainer DORMAN Part #42426 Tailgate Current Price $3.79
I can't believe that my dealership wanted to replace the whole thing for $375.00!! It's dumb that Chevy would use a plastic part for something that would be used often. Anyways, I'm following all the instructions that other people have stated here and just replace the plastic Actuator Rod Retainer. Hopefully it works out!
My 2001 blazer right rear turn signal is doing the same thing. Everything stays on with my foot on the brake after removing the key....What the heck........Exactly what is the cause? Is this a recall issue with this truck?
I just read a post to NHTSA.gov where the fellow said his dealership replaced the master control switch on his 2001 blazer and that solved the problem.....does he mean turn/cruise lever?
2000-2001 had a recall on the hazard switch in the top of the steering column and they pull the red button out with pliers and drop a new one in free in about 30 minutes so run your VIN at the GM dealer to see if yours covered.
Repairdog; Is there any place else to check the recall/VIN? Seem my 2000 Blazer has exactly the same problem w/the flasher or turn signal clicking. It's been happening over a few months now and I first noticed it right after a car wash when the guys wiped off the dash and steering column. The flashers were on when I got into the driver's seat. They were probably never used before and to turn them off I had to press it down (or lift up) a few times. After that the clicking started so I changed the flasher unit. Within a few days the clicking came back. I thought it had something to do with the emergency flasher. It makes the clicking only when the brake is not applied, step on the brake pedal and it goes away. At times when the brake is aplied the flasher unit will buzzz and the clicking stops altogether. Strange...so is the dealer recall fix the only sollution?
we are talking about two different subjects here??? the brake pedal turning on electrical devices and no right turn signal is the first issue. The second is a clicking noise unrelated to the pedal problem. So I hope the answer I got was for the question I asked and not for the clicking noise. I don't have the clicking noise. Everyone keeps mixing the two subjects, I think.
BY the way, rgwiz, I'll probably end up changing my flasher at some point like so many have had to do. Is it behind the glove box? How much did it cost you? Thanks
Hikick1, Sorry about the subject mixup but yeah, both subjects are talked about here. Yep the flasher is just above the side kick panel below the glovebox. It plugs into a box module and there is a blue or green plastic strap around it. I had to cut the strap because there's no room to see how the strap works. I got the flasher online from GM parts. Cheap, like under $20 with s/h. The thing is, I probably didn't have to change the flasher. The constant clicking is probably from the emergency flasher button like repairdog is saying.
Today I went to two different GM/Chevy dealerships to check on recall status. One told me the hazard flasher was on recall and it expired already. The other only mentioned a transmission part or something unrelated to my elctrical mayhem. Neither mentioned the same recall. Ever heard of silent recalls. I opened a complaint ticket at nhtsa in hopes that it will be investigated. There was already a complaint there for the brake/electrical issue. They are telling me it will cost 196.00 for the control. and 150 for labor. I saw the switch on ebay OEM for 115.00. At this point I can only assume a master control switch is the turn signal lever? Does anyone know or have hed the problem fixed?
I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy with about 60,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I began having weird power loss on my dashboard display. The gauges and lights would all drop to zero and then come back up again. The problem is intermittent and I cannot predict when or where it will occur. Today, my truck began stalling out when the dash display goes haywire. It starts right up again, but I must keep the RPMs up or it will stall out again. Does anyone have any experience with this issue? Please advise and thank you for the help.
The hazard switch on top of steering column is bad. Wiggle it and I get turn signals. When I could get turn signals, the run-on problem stoppped. This was a temporary fix. Eventually I was unable to "wiggle" it to work. I had to hold it forward to work. Amaziing how one little piece is causing so much complication. It had also beagn to effect my key fob functions. I couldn't arm car with fob.
My dad is having the exact same problem with his 1998 Blazer. He took it to the shop, and they suspected the battery was intermittent, so it was replaced. The truck is still doing the same thing. I was wondering if it is in the column (ignition part) or if there may be something in the transmission that would cause this? What would you next suggestion be?
I guess I'll play with the hazard button this weekend. I didn't mention earlier that my horn button may also be affected. Sometimes, like right now, it also quits working. Could the air bag activate if I pry off the cover in the center of the steering wheel? Any one else have a problem with the signal running on together with a non-working horn?
If the vehicle starts to stall at idle and then the dash jumps that could be the idle air control (IAC) valve that the PCM adjusts the air mix thru to regulate the idle. Its on the throttle body and the TB must be taken off the upper intake to install a new one and clean the port it fits in.
Just a follow up on my fast left turn signal. At the scheduled maintenance last week, the dealer's mechanic found that a rear-left turn light bulb was burnt and needed replacement, which I did. Then, magically, the left turning signal returned to the normal clicking speed. It was strange, but it was good.
Thanks for that info lawrencec. I ordered it for my 1996 Blazer and will try to replace. For the rest of you having problems finding the part, here you go. $10 after shipping. Hoping it works. Hoping GM made a lot of profit saving pennies using a plastic part instead of a metal part.
I will create a web page with pictures and instructions on how to do it if I am succesful. Expect that sometime August 2007 if I'm not too lazy to do so.
Not sure which came first, but I just got a new battery and hoped it would fix my remote door opener problems. Without pressing the buttons on the key fob, the door locks/rear hatch actuators cycle on all by themselves and drained the battery. The remote key fob/opener doesn't work on the doors. I pulled the fuse #7 labled 5Amp Mir/Lks thinking that would kill the door locks. It doesn't, as I later found this is the inside window lock (door locks is #14). Strange, but with this mirror/window fuse out the door and rear hatch actuators work, both from the door panel switch and the remote opener. Of course the mirrors can't be adjusted, but the door locks work. I had thought the problem was with the door actuators but it now appears to be the mirror/window locks. Any suggestions for how to fix this? Thanks in advance for any comments!
I have a question about my turn signals. Short while ago both turn signals stopped working. I was wondering where i can relace the turn signal flashers in a 97' Chevy Blazer (how do i get to the bulbs) Thanks
I had a 97 Jimmy, and now I have an 01 Blazer and on both vehicles the driver side power window worked sometimes. Is there a common problem? How reasonable is it to get it fixed in terms of repair costs?
My 95 blazer has began having similar problems. On ocassion when i go from park to Drive, i can hear the rear window actuator pop open, and the car will drain the battery in a short while. it has happend to me several times now and becomeing quite a nuisance. I removed the brain of the remote starter but that didn't fix the problem. All the wiring under the dash seems to be cleanly done, I dont see any shoddy wiring or crossed leads, so i'm truly confused about it all.
I am having the same problem on my 2002 blazer remote will lock/unlock doors rear hatch will not open (no noise) mirrors do not work. I did find the below, but have not done any more research. Have you found the solution to the problem? I would appreciate any info on fixing. Please email if you hawe any additional information. rich@roregan.com Thanks again
TSB #151200 -- CUSTOMER MAY COMMENT THAT THE REARVIEW MIRRORS, POWER DOOR LOCKS AND REAR HATCH DO NOT OPERATE. *TT (NHTSA ID #617784, DECEMBER 15 2000)
Can someone with a '99 through '02 Blazer/Jimmy post the part number of the remote key fob? I am ordering replacements and just want a double check as they are non-returnable special order items.
Appreciate your reply. What I have found out is that the remote changed between '01 and '02. The part number I am finding for '98 through '01 is 15732805.
I checked your part number against the one I had. Yours is for the 2nd design, mine is for the first. GM made a production change at the end of the '01 model year, so the number I found for mine should work.
and work they did. Got two factory new GM remotes, both programmed up perfectly, and the kids car now has remotes and the factory security systems all work.
I'm having the same problems with my 98 Blazer. The mechanic said that it's going to be 400 dollars to fix, I don't buy it. What did you do or what do you suggest?
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer, when i turn the key there is an audible click and then i loose all power to the vehicle. The battery light flickers even when the key is removed from the ignition, and i can hear a relay in the TCCM doing its thing. It does not show any stored codes using the code reader. I have periodically gotten it to start but all the lights and gauges in the dash go nuts. I am stumped. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a 97 Blazer 4WD and I'm going to try and make this short. I got in an accident (fender bender) about 5 months ago and in this accident, the front driver bumper got bent in. I just went through an inspection and they noticed that my front turn signal light was out. I replaced it and all of a sudden my left turn signal stopped working. It was working off and on and now none of my signals will work. My hazard lights work well, so I know there's not a problem with any of the bulbs. I've checked the relays in the glove box and they seem to work. I also checked the fuses in the fuse box. I was told that maybe one of the wires in the front may be touching metal. I followed all of those lines and nothing is out of place. Can anyone offer any other suggestions?
Comments
I guess this is a pretty extensive job as you would have to open up the steering column. Sounds expensive, maybe I'll just wire the horn up so that it works off a different circuit just to get through inspection. It doesnt really bother me to have to jump the fuse block to open my rear hatch, I just leave it open most of the time, not latched comepletely. Thanks for the info!!! :sick:
On the starter there are two wires, one to the solenoid and one large from the battery. Is there suppose to be another wire attached to the starter to transfer 12V to the rest of the car? If not where does the main juice from the battery to the chassis electrical connect? The main power block on the drivers side near the firewall has no power either.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Frank
Thanks!
Kevin
I saw this and found that this helped and found that the plastic blue part had indeed broken off. I decided to search for the exact part and I finally found it (with lots of work I might add since the exact part name isn't on the net anywhere).
Window Actuator Rod Retainer
DORMAN Part #42426
Tailgate
Current Price $3.79
I can't believe that my dealership wanted to replace the whole thing for $375.00!! It's dumb that Chevy would use a plastic part for something that would be used often. Anyways, I'm following all the instructions that other people have stated here and just replace the plastic Actuator Rod Retainer. Hopefully it works out!
I just read a post to NHTSA.gov where the fellow said his dealership replaced the master control switch on his 2001 blazer and that solved the problem.....does he mean turn/cruise lever?
Is there any place else to check the recall/VIN? Seem my 2000 Blazer has exactly the same problem w/the flasher or turn signal clicking. It's been happening over a few months now and I first noticed it right after a car wash when the guys wiped off the dash and steering column. The flashers were on when I got into the driver's seat. They were probably never used before and to turn them off I had to press it down (or lift up) a few times. After that the clicking started so I changed the flasher unit. Within a few days the clicking came back. I thought it had something to do with the emergency flasher. It makes the clicking only when the brake is not applied, step on the brake pedal and it goes away. At times when the brake is aplied the flasher unit will buzzz and the clicking stops altogether. Strange...so is the dealer recall fix the only sollution?
Thanks for your responses,
Hikick1
Hikick1
Sorry about the subject mixup but yeah, both subjects are talked about here.
Yep the flasher is just above the side kick panel below the glovebox. It plugs into a box module and there is a blue or green plastic strap around it. I had to cut the strap because there's no room to see how the strap works.
I got the flasher online from GM parts. Cheap, like under $20 with s/h.
The thing is, I probably didn't have to change the flasher. The constant clicking is probably from the emergency flasher button like repairdog is saying.
Thanks,
Hikick1
Could the air bag activate if I pry off the cover in the center of the steering wheel?
Any one else have a problem with the signal running on together with a non-working horn?
Link to Part
I will create a web page with pictures and instructions on how to do it if I am succesful. Expect that sometime August 2007 if I'm not too lazy to do so.
Thanks in advance for any comments!
Thanks
remote will lock/unlock doors
rear hatch will not open (no noise)
mirrors do not work. I did find the below, but have not done any more research. Have you found the solution to the problem? I would appreciate any info on fixing. Please email if you hawe any additional information. rich@roregan.com
Thanks again
TSB #151200 -- CUSTOMER MAY COMMENT THAT THE REARVIEW MIRRORS, POWER DOOR LOCKS AND REAR HATCH DO NOT OPERATE. *TT (NHTSA ID #617784, DECEMBER 15 2000)
Thanks,
Jim
FCC ID: KOBLEAR1XT
Canada: 3521 102 1718
Straight from the back of my 02 blazer remote. Hope this helps.
Make Model Year(s) Application
Chevrolet Astro
2000
RPO AU0, Each
2001
RPO AU0, ID #15732805, Each
Chevrolet Blazer
1998-2001
Each, 1st Design
GMC Envoy
1998-2000
Each
GMC Jimmy
1998-2001
Each, 1st Design
GMC Safari
2000
RPO AU0, Each
2001
RPO AU0, ID #15732805, Each
I am hoping the right one shows up on Saturday!
Thanks for your response.
Jim
http://www.blazerforum.com/m_91743/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#91743