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If you get the coil pack off the top and the boot is stuck on the plug...try using compressed air, even one of those little jobs you can keep in the trunk. A hand air pump might even work. Use one of the little tapered adapters if you have one and shoot a little air down the center hole. The boot should pop right off. I did that on my one stuck one when I changed plugs a couple of years ago. One little burst of air from the compressor and it popped right off.
Bill '00 Trooper in Memphis
I will try your suggestion tomorrow in the 9 degree freezing weather predicted. I'll let you know....Thanks again
-mike
-mike
I was lucky...I drove around for 3 days with 5 new plugs and 1 old one before thinking about using the air pressure...was really surprised how easily it popped right off as soon as I turned on the little compressor...I got the kids to get me a real compressor the next year for Christmas :-). I feel lucky that I did NOT ruin that stuck boot...the $150 replacement would be a little painful since you apparently have to buy the complete coil-pak to get the tube :-(
Bill
BTW, I'm hoping for the forecast 72 Sunday...golf in short sleeves perhaps.
Also, as far as the spark plug boots ripping, Auto Zone sells the boots seperate for around 8 bucks apiece. You do not need to order the coil packs.
I was having problems with my brakes not working, but a little bit of fluid fixed that right up. Same thing with all other fluid levels: as soon as we filled them up, the car ran quite beautifully. The transmission fluid was the only one that didn't need a refill, actually. I have had absolutely no problems with this since I've bought it, not even symptoms. Can it just go out like that immediately? My dad's thinking the transmission filter might be clogged and we'd like to know if we can DIY that job. Does anyone have any pictures or instructions on changing the transmission filter? :sick: :sick: :sick:
-mike
I have not been able to locate a repair manual for this model year. Any suggestions on locating one are appreciated.
Finally, thanks to all for the great forum!
BJK a.k.a. "ectrooper"
2) I'm getting ready to pull the engine. One source "Haynes" says to pull the tranny first. Another source "Chilton's" doesn't seem concerned with the tranny. Neither one mentions the power steering lines. I'm wondering what else they have failed to mention...I can get everything disconnected ok, but would like to know just what procedure works best. Thanks.
First ck to see if your alt is working. when all your warning lights are on the alt prob wont be charging. speed up the motor when the lights go out the alt should be putting out. I still havent traced out the whole problem it just happened to me. seems like a relay or something mot shure yet
A few weeks ago during a sunny February day, we decided to take the Trooper on a day trip to Rhode Island (about 40 miles from our home). While driving back on the highway we heard a disturbing "clunking" sound from the under carriage that we did NOT hear on the trip down. In fact, this was the first time we EVER heard any kind of noise in the 5 1/2 years we owned the vehicle; we were somewhat perplexed..
I pulled over to check out all four tires thoroughly including kicking and shaking them but did not find anything unusual. The clunking continued as we slowly made our way back home.
The following day I told my wife I would drive her to her appointment and then see my mechanic to check out the noise, which had not disappeared. On the way there and while sitting in the passenger seat she gazed over to the dashboard and noticed that the TOD switch was still engaged. She pressed the switch on the dashboard to dis-engage it and VOILA...the clunking stopped...immediately! Better yet...it's been two weeks and NO MORE CLUNKING!
I write this for anyone who may have or have had transmission problems in the past. Who knows....it just might be due to the TOD switch being engaged. I certainly was relieved to think I saved myself an unnecessary repair job and being gouged out of plenty of DOUGH. Hope this helps someone else.
A few weeks ago during a sunny February day, we decided to take the Trooper on a day trip to Rhode Island (about 40 miles from our home). While driving back on the highway we heard a disturbing "clunking" sound from the under carriage that we did NOT hear on the trip down. In fact, this was the first time we EVER heard any kind of noise in the 5 1/2 years we owned the vehicle; we were somewhat perplexed..
I pulled over to check out all four tires thoroughly including kicking and shaking them but did not find anything unusual. The clunking continued as we slowly made our way back home.
The following day I told my wife I would drive her to her appointment and then see my mechanic to check out the noise, which had not disappeared. On the way there and while sitting in the passenger seat she gazed over to the dashboard and noticed that the TOD switch was still engaged. She pressed the switch on the dashboard to dis-engage it and VOILA...the clunking stopped...immediately! Better yet...it's been two weeks and NO MORE CLUNKING!
I write this for anyone who may have or have had transmission problems in the past. Who knows....it just might be due to the TOD switch being engaged. I certainly was relieved to think I saved myself an unnecessary repair job and being gouged out of plenty of DOUGH. Hope this helps.
(also, exhaust manifold has a 02 sensor in it that is not and never was hooked up and I couldn't find where it would connect)
thankyou for any assistance you might add
warranty?? PD. I change the filter and filter the old oil plus add a trans treatment plus less than a quart of high mi. trans. fluid.
Is this pipe made out of gold or something? What gives?
Thanks in advance.
Dwayne 'loud pipe' Reynolds
-mike
My Q-45 was having a bad miss and knock sensor code came up. Three quick flashes and four slow ones,code 34. Well that's what would happen when I'm running on seven cylinders instead of eight . I actually had two ignition coils failing intermittently. Car has 8 coil packs. I checked the both knock sensors when I replaced the coils and one of them was testing good and bad when I moved the connector, so iI replaced it too. I always seem to get an EGR code 32, three quick flashes and 2 slow ones. Im not sur why but I leave my egr ehaust tube hand tight, because they can rust and be hard to remove if necessary. I now got a tube of anti-seize for this.
I went for a smog test and it didn't pass, but just barely. Idle speed HC's are 40-ppm too high. I looked into the problem and checked for codes again. One quick flash and one slow for code 11. I remember the car almost shutting off when under a load a few weeks back so this might have set off this code for bad crank sensor. It runs all the coils and your ignition timing. Then I did a compression test, it indicated the RH bank all 20 psi less on compression than the left. A timing chain change got them up 10 psi to 170 PSI, still below the max of 185PSI. The car passed smog and my code light has not come on for the last day. I left the crank sensor alone, if its still running don't fix it motto.
Doing the chain change, I had to replace all my intake seals, there's eight of them too, and I think that might have been contributing to the slight miss at idle. A big vacuum hose broke in half it too could have been cracked on the curve under neath where I wouldnt see it. It connects to my air filter duct and gets removed regularly when Im troubleshooting my engine. It can make the engine run too lean causing a small miss thus sending HC's out of acceptable limits for smog test. That is raw fuel passing through engine from a cylinder not completely burning all the gasoline, either because its too lean, or weak spark compression. Lean is a low CO reading on the smog test.
From this history you can see only one code ended up causing me to change that component and that one dose not effect normal running perimeters. All others were intermittent and not currently affecting the running of my car. My codes erase after 50 starts, if he problem is not there at that time. Or if I disconnect the battery.Then you have 24 hours to get it out of the backup memory.
This is a pretty sophiticated car for its time, 1990. The only codes to check fuel injectors is codes 45,and 51. Ignition system (coils) is not self dianostic, no codes for testing. Most cars give sensor data through these codes. Throttle postion code43,oxegen sensor 33, ignition signal 21, mph sensor 14,coolent temp 13,air flow meter12. These are my cars codes,most cars are the same.
Code 55 is no malfuntion.
If its tilted in at the top it most likely the rubber bushing that support the tire and rim to the frame are gone or very worn out. My old F-100 had this problem and was not easy to steer.
Camber is the tilt in and out of the tire at the top.Toe-in is just that. Turn your feet in and thats what toe-in does. I always align my own cars by putting the steering wheel straight and getting on the ground to see where the front tire sidewalls line up to the rear tire.It should be visible on the inside (the rear tire) and just out of sight on the outside.
It sounds like someone is giving you the run around, but you mention something about gaskets and seals . I dont work on these vehicles but responded because my email gave me an alert for this vehicle probably from a past topic.
I went on Autozone site for manuals. They group the repair under one heading for all Isuzu vehicles so Im guessing you have the V6 3.1 or 3.2 liter. Again I cant even make out the pictures but it looks like distributorless ignition like my Q-45. The coils mount right on top of the spark plug. There is no wires in this type of ignition usually. Without seeing it in person I guessing oil is on this part. I replaced the O- rings on my Q-45 when I saw oil on this part. It required the valve cover removal I done a bunch of these over the years and is a great do it yourself repair if you want to save yourself a lot of bucks$$$$. Someone will eventually respond to your specific problem who is more familiar with this vehicle.
I have the above Trooper with the 2.6 liter 4 cylinder, when I start it up it will run for awhile but then if I shut it off It will start but not stay running, and only run for a couple of seconds. I just put gas in it because I thought that was the problem but it is still doing it. I read down the line and it sounds like the same problem that someone else is having but I am not sure. Do I need to change out some sensors? I think I saw something about CO sensors?What is the ECM and what does it look like and could there be some error codes in the brain box(ECM?)??Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jellyfish2
Hi I have a 1991 V6 Isuzu Trooper Auto. I need to replace the water pump cause it is leaking. Can someone tell me what size star socket I have to get to take off the bolts holding the water pump on. I have not done this on a trooper before what is the process and do I need any special tools. Also do I need to replace anything else ( hoping to use the belt cause I think they are pricey) while I have the pump off? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Get a manuel if in doubt.Good luck!