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Ok, since I got mine fixed, here's what I suggest: FIRST, swap the cables so you are properly able to take advice, and get a good ground, and et cetera.
Second, make sure EVERY SINGLE GROUND in the engine is solid and clean. I took all the bolts out, scrubbed them down to metal on both parts, and the frame, and reconnected.
Third, check every inch of wire, just to be sure that you're not having something short or ground out where it's not supposed to.
I also noticed that I have a problem with my Alternator Tension Bolt rattling loose, and thus the alternator is not turning with the engine, and therefore not charging. Tight=charging. Check it,k?
Hope this helps.
Oh, and replace the battery and possibly the Alternator. Take the alternator to the auto shop and have it bench tested to see if it's operating fully, and at amperage.
Best to you.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks for the help
Dusty
Dusty
Keep in mind this is only a guess on my part. I would recommend obtaining a set of wiring diagrams and troubleshooting first or have the dealer check it out to confirm.
Regards,
Dusty
There are two areas that contain fuses, circuit breakers, and relays in Dodge trucks. One is called the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and is located under the hood, usually next to or very near the battery.
The second area is called the Junction Block (JB) and on Dakotas is located at the end of the instrument panel on the driver's side. This area uses a trim panel to cover the JB and is easily removed.
The fuse you are looking for is in the JB.
Does your model have a Dome Lamp as well?
Regards,
Dusty
Sorry for all the questions Dusty. Again, I appreciate your help.
However, I have to agree with your original assumption that if the courtesy lamps are still illuminating, they must be getting a DC supply from somewhere. So I think the fuse they're identifying in the book is incorrect.
I may not have the correct documentation for your year Dakota, but I'm somewhat confident that the problem is going to be the CTM, especially since in previous years this was fairly common problem component.
The CTM contains semiconductive drivers that control numerous electrical devices in the vehicle. These are placed on the low side (negative) of a device and permit the device to operate underr certain condditions. For example, the overhead courtesy lamps illuminate when a door is opened or unlocked and stay illuminated for several minutes or until the ignition switch is turned to the run position. It is the driver in the CTM that provides the conductive path for this feature. In this case, I think the driver has shorted allowing the lamps to be on all the time.
I've been told that there are a couple of diodes in the CTM that commonly fail and the CTM can be opened and repaired. I've never done this myself. If you are an electrical type of person you might be able to verify the problem and repair the CTM.
Best regards,
Dusty
Best regards,
Dusty
Headlights/tailights do not work
Power locks either don't work or when you push one it clicks really fast multiple times.
Also, turning the headlights on, pressing the brake pedal or using the locks will cause the ABS and Brake light (on instrument cluster) to come on.
Checked as many grounds as I could find and nothing seems to work as of yet, :sick:
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Mike
Best regards,
Dusty
Bob
0) Does that sound logical here?
1) Where is the CTM located and what does it look like?
2) Can I replace it myself?
3) Does the module need to be programed by the dealer?
4) About how much should a programed CTM cost?
5) Is the only place to buy it at the dealer?
Thanks
Mike
SBoyle
Yes.
1) Where is the CTM located and what does it look like?
I'm not positive on '99s, but on 2001s an up the CTM is located behind the driver's kick panel (Cowl Side Inner Panel) on the left side of the cab, approximately where your left foot would rest while driving. The CTM is a relatively square-looking module and has three connectors.
2) Can I replace it myself?
Absolutely.
3) Does the module need to be programed by the dealer?
No.
4) About how much should a programed CTM cost?
N/A
5) Is the only place to buy it at the dealer?
They were about $170 from Dodge the last time I needed one. I believe they are available from places like Auto Zone, etc. I'm sure they're cheaper at an auto parts store.
Regards,
Dusty
Just found this site and thought to throw this out, maybe there might be a suspected component before I start a long tedious search.
If I had to guess, I would suspect the signal switch, but ....??
thanks a bunch. jjs
Mike
Regards,
Dusty
I wonder if you are referring to the fusible link? I can't for the life of me figure out how something could be missing on a vehicle that ran fine one minute then died another. Let's approach this another way.
Connect a voltmeter to the correct terminals of the battery (positive meter lead to positive post; negative meter lead to negative post). You should be reading something over +12.5 volts with a fully charged battery. A partially drained battery will yield a lower voltage.
Start the engine. If you are in a cold weather area of the country, the voltmeter should be reading anywhere from +13 to +14.7 volts at initial start up and slowly drop as the battery charges. If the voltage drops from your initial reading after start up, the battery is not receiving any charge current from the alternator. This then is the problem to troubleshoot.
If the battery is receiving a charge, you probably have an intermittent problem. Check for bad connections at the alternator, Power Distribution Center (PDC), and to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Regards,
Dusty
i have a 2000 dakota QC manul 6 cylinder. i replaced the battery recently. when i drive with my headlights on...the lights start flickering. (headlights, dashlights..pretty much all the lights) also i hear this clicking when the lights are flickering. when the car is off and just sitting there, i c in the headlight that there is a very dim light that is on. i have to 2 disconnect the battery so it wont drain my battery.
plz help!
All the things you mention that aren't working could be related to the CTM, except the tachometer.
Regards,
Dusty
I had trouble with my cab lights staying on when I was driving my 99 dakota (4WD 5.2L). I tried to replace the CTM. I purchased a new module from the dealer. When I installed the new module and reconnected the battery the truck would not start. The cab lights and all seemed to work fine but the engine would not kickover.
It does sound like the starter motor is trying.
I then tried to reinstall the original module, but as soon as I reconnected the battery negative wire the alarm started to sound. I could not shut off the alarm or start the truck.
Any suggestions on how to get the new CTM to work or to reset the old CTM module?
I asked the dealer if the new module needed to be programed. They said only to get the keyless remote to work. They said that I should be able to start and drive the truck after I installed the new module.
Thanks,
Mike
If you talked to a parts person, then I can understand their answer. Unfortunately, the CTM has two fused ignition circuits: one for Accessories and another for Start. So, yes, the CTM can have an influence on engine start.
However, if the stater is engaging the flywheel and trying to turn the engine over, I suspect you may have another problem.
Regards,
Dusty
The number1 reason for this is GAS CAP which is not sealing properly. The owners-manual says to get 3 full clicks when tightening. Try tightening, or even replacing the gas cap. Don't use a cheap after market one though.
If you need to know more about the EVAP diagnostics and why they may fail, PLEASE use the search function. I have explained in explicit detail least 12 times over the past 8 years here on Edmunds. It is usually trivial to isolate the problem.
If a new cap doesn't solve the problem, there are several possibilities. One of the most common are cracked/split purge lines that go from the Evaporative Canister to the fuel tank, or to the Leak Detection Pump (LDP). If you don't have a Leak Detection Pump, you will have a Evaporative Purge Solenoid (EPS) which is mounted on the firewall.
Of course, you could have an electrical problem with either a LDP or a EPS.
Regards,
Dusty
Check the right front signal to get an idea of where the lights are located and you should see two lights when the signal is activated.
Now check the left side to see which of the two bulbs does not function.
Hope this helped.
Thanks
Thanks :confuse:
Regards,
Dusty