The Montero drives ok, even if it's easy to roll over. I've owned my 2002 Montero for 4 years and it has been an ok truck. The biggest problems my truck had were 3 radios installed with in the first year I owned it. The other major problem I had was the manifolds cracking when the truck had about 35k miles on it.
The insurance is rather expensive although over the pass year State farm changed the class it was in. If you plan on keeping it without trading it in before it's paid for get it. If you like donating money because of terrible depreciation and truly love the montero go and get it! Thank goodness mine will be paid for in 18 months!
I like make a point here. Do not judge a car with it's deprication value. If you are that concerned about Deprciciation then never buy a new car of any brand. That said, yes Montero has a higher depciation value then others ( e.g. toyota, honda), But it neck to neck with US made SUV's. Like you said , if you keep it and not think it to sell it , then go for it. It's a great SUV.
Another problem with a car that depreciates fast is that if it's totaled in the first few years, you may not get enough out of it to cover the loan or to buy a replacement. Gap insurance of some sort may be worth it.
Too bad that it had to go. This has been by far the best truck I have ever had (2003 LTD). And I had a 1999 Durango and 1998 Jeep Cherokee Limited, I test drove ML350, BMWX5 (3 liter), Toyota Sequoia, VW Touareg (the V6), GMC Yukon, Jeep Liberty, Durango with HEMI, Chevy Blazer, Nissan Murano. Of all these SUVs the best in my opinion was the X5. But Mitsubishi was a close second and with a much better price and reliability. I bought it in november 2002 and so far it has NEVER seen the dealer (I do my own maintenance). Yes, it likes the gas but at the same time has a very good engine brake and good performance down-hill. Hey Mitsubishi executives. You want to get the sales up and blow everybody? You have one of the best offroad vehicles with excelent design and quality all you need is a little kick. Just get the HEMI from Chrysler !!!! I would preorder one today and give you 1000$ down payment for whatever MSRP you will want.
Whomever has doubt about the off-road capability of Montero 2003-2005 ( I mean serious offroad) Car and Driver Television just had an episode Last weekend in Spike TV channel. They rated the following 2005 SUV models in chronological order ( as #1 is the best) for their performace in offroad and on road. 1. Jeep Cherokee ( some points though the front was hitting the skid plates.. it won for HEMI engine) 2. Nissan Pathfinder 3. Mitsubishi Montero ( no problem at all in off road) 4. Volkswagon Touraeg 5. Toyota 4 Runner !!! 6. Ford Explorer
I could not be more excited and astounded of the results as a proud owner of 2004 Montero . GO MONTY!!
I have a '96 monty w/ 3.0ltr v6. I understand that the intake plenum has to be removed to get to the spark plugs. Does anyone have a detailed manual that shows what all has to be taken off?
My montero is suffering when AC is on and I think it is related to plugs. Any other opinions?
When it is cool, the engine kind of surges...likes it's fighting for power, or air, or something.
I just replaced the air filter and put in some fuel inj. cleaner.
Could be your plug wires. I have 95 Diamante with the sam engine that was suffering the same problem. New plug wires fixed it. Unfortunately I do not have an answer as to how to remove the intake - I let the local mechanic do that...
The only change is a reduced color selection? Still underpowered. Still a plastic-encased mall cruiser. Still too 2001. Too bad Mitsubishi is letting one of the toughest real SUVs around simply die from neglect. Its chassis could go head-to-head with the H3 and Jeep Commander and knock 'em on their butts if they'd reskin it with a more aggressive look and give it their V8 (or a diesel).
At least it seems there will be an 06 Montero in the US, though I thought Mitsu had formally announced otherwise. Maybe there's a pulse in the tough ol' Montie.
I have a 2004 Montero LTD. While going up the hill, the engine is knocking a little ( the A/C is off) . Is it a problem ? I use regular unleaded gas right now. Could it be for low octane gasoline? Thanks for any advice.
OK . We have a ’03 Sport with a few problems. (1) The brake light on the dash was coming on then going off, but now it’s on continuously. (2) The cruise control light stay on after you use it. When you turn off the cruise control then turn off the truck, then turn the truck back on, the cruise control is on. After normal driving for a few days, it goes and stays off. (3) The A/C sounds like it’s still cycling even though the A/C button is off. Are these problems all related? Since they’ve all happened/started around the same time, I thought that is might be an electronic/computer SNAFU. Anyhow help would be great.
1) The brake light on might indicate a low brake fluid level due to normal wear of the brake pads. Check the level and add as necessary (make sure you add the same type of fluid) but you may also want to check the status of the brake pads. 2) and 3) might be related to a computer problem (that might include 1) if the description above does not fix your problem)
I have 03 Montero Limited with 20K miles. Since December last year (2004) until now, I am noticing that about twice a week brakes make scratching sound when they are cold and car needs to stop completely. After few times of pressing the brake pedal, scratching sound disappears. I took it to a dealer but he said that brakes are fine expect for the metal dust that was collected on the rotor and advised me to regularly (twice a month) wash brake rotors with a warm soapy water. Other independent repair store also didn't find anything wrong with a brake. The brake performance otherwise are excellent, brake pedal feels firm and no vibration. Does dealer's explanation of scratching sound make logical explanation? Is there any solution that I can apply to prevent this sound from happening.
Sometimes when a car sits overnight, or for a few days, moisture in the air will cause a little bit of oxidation to form on the rotors. After you have made a couple of stops with the brakes, the oxidation gets worn off (and yes, it does make a scratching sound during those initial couple of stops). By the way, this happens to my cars too sometimes, and they are garaged.
Well..grinding sound was started to bother the heck out of me so I decided to take Montero to another repair store. That store was highly recommended.
I was very surprised to find out that at 20.5K miles my Montero's brake are goners. Service manager suggested to replace all 4 brake's pads with ceramic and to resurface the rotors. He showed me brake pads and when I touched them, they had kind of spiky metal things on them. The brake rotors also had a weird lines on them. After 4 hours of work the bill came out at $450.
Well at least now, brake performance are awesome as before and NONE of that horrible grinding noise any more.
Honestly, I owned several cars before (Nissan, Honda, Audi, Toyota, Subaru) but this is my first car that I had to replace brake pads and especially resurface the rotor before 40K miles. Did anyone of you had to do a brake job on your Montero so early?
I just bought a used '98 Montero Sport, we'll see how long it hangs in there. Any issues I should be aware of or anything I should get checked out? Can I download the owner's manual somewhere? I really don't know much about this car, I just got it at an auction. Anyone know the code to reset the stereo? Oh yeah, what type of fuel does the engine (3.0L V6) like? Thanks for any help,
I have a 2003 with approximately 18k on it. It does feel tippy, not so much in corners, but at highway curves etc. Will changing the shocks help with this ? Are coil over shocks going to be better for this ? Anyone with recomendations? Thanks for any insight. Otherwise still enjoying the ride!
I have an '01 Montero and have recently had problems with my computer display. As of a couple of weeks ago, the computer will no longer display the outside temperature. In it's place it displays "---". Also, the AC display no longer works. In the past when I had adjusted the temperature the computer would switch to the AC display showing the temperature I had selected. Now, when I change the temperature the computer no longer switches to that display.
Had same problem about 4 months ago, then two months later check eng light came on, my husband pulled over, loud noise then it died. Oil changed 4k miles ago....added 1k miles ago....anyway 45,000 miles and I need a new engine. The place that changes my oil only keeps records for 1 year, and since I do not have all of my receipts, (after talking to them) It does not appear that Mitsubishi will help.....so basically I am up S&*^** creek! Still owe quite a bit on it and do not have 8K for a new engine. I will N E V E R buy another mitsubishi. I usually keep cars for well over 100K miles, I have a ford truck with 202K miles, my son has a jeep with over 100k miles, it just makes me sick that the first time I exceeded $30K on a vehicle and I could not even get 50K miles out of it. And then to be getting the run-a-round with them for 2+ months. :sick: Well I certainly hope your desplay problem is nothing more. Best wishes
Add my 2001 Montero to the list of those that have the clear coat separating on the spare tire cover. Monty is garaged at night but outside at work. Very few of the "older" Monty's i see on the road are NOT separating.
Bet you it's the car battery. I had the exact same problem, figure it was time to replace the battery anyway, and miraculously the outside temp and AC display reappeared.
Is the local dealer the best place? The one that's local seem to have pretty high prices. I need whatever that plastic gear thingy is that goes inside the power antenna. I can hear it working, but it only lowers with my help. It raises fine, just doesn't want to lower without some help.
Also, one of the tire lights is out on the dash. The ones that tell you whether you're in 2W or 4W. Is it a fuse or something more involved?
Thirdly, my mileage gauge on the center console is buggy. After a fill-up it says I have 41 miles left. Every time. Any ideas? Thanks.
I also had a problem with milage guide on a center control. Here is what I found on the internet and it helped.
Try this: 1. With the ignition key OFF, press and hold the "DISP" button. 2. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position, continuing to hold the "DISP" button. In about 10 seconds, you will hear a beep, and the screen will show "Start to check the system... 3. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. The screen should show "Checking the system connection. 4. After a few seconds, it will beep again, and the display will indicate the "system connection is completed" (it has been re-set). You will then have to reset the compass like you did when the car was delivered.
If this won't help. Here are other instructions from internet that I also found but I did not try them so don't know if they work.
1. Make sure you have the activation code for your CD player/stereo before you do this. 2. The dealer may have a better way of doing this but this will work. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable and leave it off for a few minutes so that the computer loses all of its stored data. 5-10 minutes will do it. 4. Reconnect the battery cable. Turn on the key. Your display will say something about checking the system. This takes a couple of minutes. You can find this information in the User Manual for the truck. 5. Once the system is checked and re-activated you will then need to re-set the compass (easy enough to do) by using the instructions in the User Manual. You will also need to input the stereo code to re-activate your stereo. You will also need to re-set all the presets on the stereo. 6. The fuel display will reset itself automatically but it will have no data to refer to so the first reading will be the default and will not be accurate. Mine came up with something like 428 miles where it is typically in the 385 range. It will adjust itself over the next few tanks full of gas. 7. If your tank is near empty the fuel display will not reset until you fill the tank.
I have worked with Addco sending in my sway bars. They made much bigger bars which made a huge difference. Give them a call and tell them Steve said hi and the bars work great. The ends where the bolts go through do need to be cut down so they are narrower, I dont know if they did this but it will allow for the stock attachments to work. O/W remind them that they will need to send you longer attachments.
I have 01 Monty, with only 25k miles on it. (Yes I do drive it every day) When I brake the car vibrates. I took it to Sears and they told me my rotors were fine, could there be something else that I am missing. I still feel it has to be the rotors. Sears just put new pads on the front and that was all.
I came across the similar problem with my 03 Montero a month ago when at 20.5K miles I had to replace all 4 brake pads and resurface all 4 rotors. I didn't have vibration of the brake pedal but a metal grinding noise. I open a claim with Mitsubishi but they official answer was that "...brakes on Montero (especially front ones) are recommended to be replaced every 20K miles...". I replaced my all 4 brake pads with ceramic one and so far they were good. The store that replaced my Montero's brake pads (not dealer) claimed that with ceramic brake pads, I should expect to get at least 40K miles of them (I am driving about 10K/year). I hope that it would be. Any other problem with vibration of the brake pedal can indicate a problem with ABS system so it might be wise to take your Montero to brake-special store (like Midas) and not Sears to have them evaluate brake system in full details.
Thanks, my brake pedal does not vibrate. The back in end of the truck vibrates when I step on the brake. I will have Midas check it out. If I go to the dealer it will cost $$$. I have not been to happy with Sears' service. I replaced my tires and had them put on Michelins. The OME tires were starting to crack. the truck handles much better now. Just wish it would stop all that vibration. :sick:
As much as I can tell vibration in the rear during braking might be either sign of weaking suspension (did you tow anything?), or less likely rear brake pads need to replaced and rotors to be resurfased. Hope your problem will be solved. Do you mind to let me know what was a real deal as soon as you'll know for sure? Good luck.
I have never towed anything. I bet the rotors need resurface. I will let you know what I find out. I have to get the time to take it in. Sorry to see the Monty go the the way of the dinosaur.
I am also sad to see Montero going out but it is definatly not a dinasour. In Europe, Australia, and Japan, sales of Padjero is booming. Just yesterday, I saw in Moscow Pajero Exclusive (read Montero Limited) is a third in popularity 4x4 SUV in Russia following Mercedes G500 and Toyota Landcruiser. BTW, I was very surprised to know that in Russia Montero Limited with 3.5l (202 hp) engine cost (now hold your breath) $60,995 (US dollars). Surprised...? I was too. I just hope that one day Mitsubishi will re-evaluate its decision and bring a new Montero back to US market.
It wouldn't make financial sense to bring the Montero back to the US market. Mitsubishi is too stretched financially to bring the Montero up to the new safety standards, and they're only selling a few hundred units per month anyway.
At low speeds (less than 40mph) and low RPM (less than 2000) the engine will chug when the gas is depressed either to maintain speed or to accelerate. This usually happens in traffic. The car accelerates just fine from a stop. I had the transmission looked at by my mechanic and he replaced the transmission fluid along with a normal service and said everything else looked good. Does anyone know what this could be?
I took the Monty, to the dealer. They told me that the brake shims were not put on when I had Sears do my brake work. The pads were down to 25% and the rotors had to be turned. This will cost me $395 to fix. I can't believe that this is my third set of pads. Sears told me my pads were fine in the rear, yet they also told me my rotors did not need to be turned. This seems to be unusual for a truck with only 25k miles on it. $395 is alot, but I just want it done right. :mad:
JGC have had the same problem going through pads, warped stock rotors. As far as someone telling you you need to turn the discs they will almost always tell you to whether you really need to or not.
ON my Montero I replaced the pads at 25K with better pads. The stock could have gone further. I now have 60K with still a lot of pad. I did not turn the rotors and I have no vibration or other indication that I need to now.
How often you need to change pads has a lot to do with driving styles and conditions as well so it is often hard to judge why you go through pads faster than say me.
Agree, the main thing that hurt the Montero was the bogus article on roll overs. Resale dropped overnight and people ran scared. The second thing which is valid is the lack of either the European Diesel (probably needs low sulfur fuel) or a more powerful gas motor.
I have read many articles that place the Montore/Pajero in the top three as an SUV or off roader and they have only improved it with the addition of stability control since.
Give me a turbo diesel and I would get another. This thing is unstoppable off road in anything short of what you would need a true jeep for.
I would look and the Jeep Commander but fear that without a diesel here mileage would be poor but thats the only other vehicle close to the montero in ability, size, price, I dont know about dependability but I have not had a single problem with my Montero
Thank you for the tip. Worked perfectly, and now I have a mileage gauge again! Feels like a new car again! Well, not really...
>>I also had a problem with milage guide on a center control. Here is what I found on the internet and it helped.
Try this: 1. With the ignition key OFF, press and hold the "DISP" button. 2. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position, continuing to hold the "DISP" button. In about 10 seconds, you will hear a beep, and the screen will show "Start to check the system... 3. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. The screen should show "Checking the system connection. 4. After a few seconds, it will beep again, and the display will indicate the "system connection is completed" (it has been re-set). You will then have to reset the compass like you did when the car was delivered.<<
But with the features I want, I think the Commander was optioning out to something like almost $8k over what I paid for my LTD. They're really are the only vehicles out there similar to the Monty for my needs, but the price is prohibitive at this time for me. Nice suv's, though.
>>I would look and the Jeep Commander...but thats the only other vehicle close to the montero in ability, size, price... <<
I have an 02 LTD and we got 30K out of the orginal brakes. We went to the dealer and they installed new rotors and pads that lasted about 15K and we have the truck into the dealer about every month for alignment, pads and shims. I finally gave up and went to a brake shop. I got replacements for about 600 and have no problems since. Aftermarket rotors are a little beefier and do not have as much brake dust. No problems otherwise, it has been a good truck for 70k.
Any one know what would cause a gurgling sound at during acceleration? It sounds as if water is running when the truck first takes off at the light. Sounds as if it is from the passenger side and just like water running through pipes??? Car is not running hot and nothing is leaking. Any thoughts???
Comments
The insurance is rather expensive although over the pass year State farm changed the class it was in. If you plan on keeping it without trading it in before it's paid for get it. If you like donating money because of terrible depreciation and truly love the montero go and get it! Thank goodness mine will be paid for in 18 months!
Another problem with a car that depreciates fast is that if it's totaled in the first few years, you may not get enough out of it to cover the loan or to buy a replacement. Gap insurance of some sort may be worth it.
Steve, Host
Hey Mitsubishi executives. You want to get the sales up and blow everybody? You have one of the best offroad vehicles with excelent design and quality all you need is a little kick. Just get the HEMI from Chrysler !!!! I would preorder one today and give you 1000$ down payment for whatever MSRP you will want.
1. Jeep Cherokee ( some points though the front was hitting the skid plates.. it won for HEMI engine)
2. Nissan Pathfinder
3. Mitsubishi Montero ( no problem at all in off road)
4. Volkswagon Touraeg
5. Toyota 4 Runner !!!
6. Ford Explorer
I could not be more excited and astounded of the results as a proud owner of 2004 Montero . GO MONTY!!
Does anyone have a detailed manual that shows what all has to be taken off?
My montero is suffering when AC is on and I think it is related to plugs. Any other opinions?
When it is cool, the engine kind of surges...likes it's fighting for power, or air, or something.
I just replaced the air filter and put in some fuel inj. cleaner.
What else can I do?
dsgnr1
I guess I'll figure the plenum out on my own. Couldn't be too difficult.
dsgnr1
At least it seems there will be an 06 Montero in the US, though I thought Mitsu had formally announced otherwise. Maybe there's a pulse in the tough ol' Montie.
Steve, Host
(1) The brake light on the dash was coming on then going off, but now it’s on continuously.
(2) The cruise control light stay on after you use it. When you turn off the cruise control then turn off the truck, then turn the truck back on, the cruise control is on. After normal driving for a few days, it goes and stays off.
(3) The A/C sounds like it’s still cycling even though the A/C button is off.
Are these problems all related? Since they’ve all happened/started around the same time, I thought that is might be an electronic/computer SNAFU. Anyhow help would be great.
2) and 3) might be related to a computer problem (that might include 1) if the description above does not fix your problem)
Since December last year (2004) until now, I am noticing that about twice a week brakes make scratching sound when they are cold and car needs to stop completely. After few times of pressing the brake pedal, scratching sound disappears.
I took it to a dealer but he said that brakes are fine expect for the metal dust that was collected on the rotor and advised me to regularly (twice a month) wash brake rotors with a warm soapy water. Other independent repair store also didn't find anything wrong with a brake.
The brake performance otherwise are excellent, brake pedal feels firm and no vibration.
Does dealer's explanation of scratching sound make logical explanation? Is there any solution that I can apply to prevent this sound from happening.
I was very surprised to find out that at 20.5K miles my Montero's brake are goners. Service manager suggested to replace all 4 brake's pads with ceramic and to resurface the rotors. He showed me brake pads and when I touched them, they had kind of spiky metal things on them. The brake rotors also had a weird lines on them. After 4 hours of work the bill came out at $450.
Well at least now, brake performance are awesome as before and NONE of that horrible grinding noise any more.
Honestly, I owned several cars before (Nissan, Honda, Audi, Toyota, Subaru) but this is my first car that I had to replace brake pads and especially resurface the rotor before 40K miles. Did anyone of you had to do a brake job on your Montero so early?
I just bought a used '98 Montero Sport, we'll see how long it hangs in there. Any issues I should be aware of or anything I should get checked out? Can I download the owner's manual somewhere? I really don't know much about this car, I just got it at an auction. Anyone know the code to reset the stereo? Oh yeah, what type of fuel does the engine (3.0L V6) like? Thanks for any help,
Robert
Has anyone had similar problems?
Also, one of the tire lights is out on the dash. The ones that tell you whether you're in 2W or 4W. Is it a fuse or something more involved?
Thirdly, my mileage gauge on the center console is buggy. After a fill-up it says I have 41 miles left. Every time. Any ideas? Thanks.
Try this:
1. With the ignition key OFF, press and hold the "DISP" button.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position, continuing to hold the "DISP" button. In about 10 seconds, you will hear a beep, and the screen will show "Start to check the system...
3. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. The screen should show "Checking the system connection.
4. After a few seconds, it will beep again, and the display will indicate the "system connection is completed" (it has been re-set). You will then have to reset the compass like you did when the car was delivered.
If this won't help. Here are other instructions from internet that I also found but I did not try them so don't know if they work.
1. Make sure you have the activation code for your CD player/stereo before you do this.
2. The dealer may have a better way of doing this but this will work.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable and leave it off for a few minutes so that the computer loses all of its stored data. 5-10 minutes will do it.
4. Reconnect the battery cable. Turn on the key. Your display will say something about checking the system. This takes a couple of minutes. You can find this information in the User Manual for the truck.
5. Once the system is checked and re-activated you will then need to re-set the compass (easy enough to do) by using the instructions in the User Manual. You will also need to input the stereo code to re-activate your stereo. You will also need to re-set all the presets on the stereo.
6. The fuel display will reset itself automatically but it will have no data to refer to so the first reading will be the default and will not be accurate. Mine came up with something like 428 miles where it is typically in the 385 range. It will adjust itself over the next few tanks full of gas.
7. If your tank is near empty the fuel display will not reset until you fill the tank.
http://cgi.ebay.com/MITSUBISHI-PAJERO-SHOGUN-HARD-COVER_W0QQitemZ4585727120QQcategoryZ1040- - 0QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Spare-Wheel-Cover-All-Mitsubishi-Pajero-15-16-38-103_W0QQitemZ80102587- - 36QQcategoryZ72211QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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on it. (Yes I do drive it every day)
When I brake the car vibrates. I took it to Sears and they told me my rotors were fine, could there be something else that I am
missing. I still feel it has to be the rotors.
Sears just put new pads on the front and that was all.
Thanks :confuse:
I open a claim with Mitsubishi but they official answer was that "...brakes on Montero (especially front ones) are recommended to be replaced every 20K miles...". I replaced my all 4 brake pads with ceramic one and so far they were good. The store that replaced my Montero's brake pads (not dealer) claimed that with ceramic brake pads, I should expect to get at least 40K miles of them (I am driving about 10K/year). I hope that it would be.
Any other problem with vibration of the brake pedal can indicate a problem with ABS system so it might be wise to take your Montero to brake-special store (like Midas) and not Sears to have them evaluate brake system in full details.
The back in end of the truck vibrates
when I step on the brake. I will have Midas
check it out. If I go to the dealer it will
cost $$$. I have not been to happy with Sears'
service. I replaced my tires and had them put on Michelins. The OME tires were starting to crack. the truck handles much better now.
Just wish it would stop all that vibration. :sick:
need resurface. I will let you know
what I find out. I have to get the time to take it in.
Sorry to see the Monty go the the way of the dinosaur.
that the brake shims were not put on when I
had Sears do my brake work. The pads were down
to 25% and the rotors had to be turned.
This will cost me $395 to fix. I can't believe
that this is my third set of pads. Sears told
me my pads were fine in the rear, yet they
also told me my rotors did not need to be turned. This seems to be unusual for a truck with only 25k miles on it. $395 is alot, but I just want it done right. :mad:
ON my Montero I replaced the pads at 25K with better pads. The stock could have gone further. I now have 60K with still a lot of pad. I did not turn the rotors and I have no vibration or other indication that I need to now.
How often you need to change pads has a lot to do with driving styles and conditions as well so it is often hard to judge why you go through pads faster than say me.
I have read many articles that place the Montore/Pajero in the top three as an SUV or off roader and they have only improved it with the addition of stability control since.
Give me a turbo diesel and I would get another. This thing is unstoppable off road in anything short of what you would need a true jeep for.
I would look and the Jeep Commander but fear that without a diesel here mileage would be poor but thats the only other vehicle close to the montero in ability, size, price, I dont know about dependability but I have not had a single problem with my Montero
>>I also had a problem with milage guide on a center control. Here is what I found on the internet and it helped.
Try this:
1. With the ignition key OFF, press and hold the "DISP" button.
2. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position, continuing to hold the "DISP" button. In about 10 seconds, you will hear a beep, and the screen will show "Start to check the system...
3. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. The screen should show "Checking the system connection.
4. After a few seconds, it will beep again, and the display will indicate the "system connection is completed" (it has been re-set). You will then have to reset the compass like you did when the car was delivered.<<
>>I would look and the Jeep Commander...but thats the only other vehicle close to the montero in ability, size, price... <<
Any one know what would cause a gurgling sound at during acceleration? It sounds as if water is running when the truck first takes off at the light. Sounds as if it is from the passenger side and just like water running through pipes??? Car is not running hot and nothing is leaking. Any thoughts???