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PBS has a program on "Willy-Bio" As Willy Nelson is involved with others that are producing B-100 from cotton seed oil. From there is goes to a place wich mixes it to sell to stations. Most of the big rigs that used B-20 seemed to be pleased, not by the preformance, but because of the dependance upon foriegn oil is less. I did use B-20 and noticed a loss of fuel mileage and rougher ideling, not a lot but enough to notice. I would use up to B-10 IFthere was a station that carried Bio fuel with in my area. I do agree thatfor a 2.8 L 4 cyclender engine this has the torque to move quick, and the economy that is like that of a compact car.
My issues are not with the price to maintain the CRD or even the recalls or re-flashes. I am most upset that that when we have a problem few know how to take care of the problem. The replace and elimanate, trial by error method is sorta ok as long as it does not require so much time and the miles it puts on with me paying for the fuel to go back and forth to get the issue resolved. One problem took 5 trips before the problem was resolved.
Right now everything is covered by 1 to 2 inches of solid ice, here. I doubt anyone on our hill can move, unless they have studs in their tires. So our fuel is lasting much longer than normal, it is now 27 F here, we expecting 4 F tommrow. I just might try starting the
"green Beast" tommrow to see how it does without the block heater on.
farout
I have tried to start my CRD at +9 F sans block heater and it started just fine on the first try. Rather noisy though but that is typical for a diesel.
I have a better appreciation for your dilemma, namely finding competent service and competent technicians. So far I have been lucky and do have a good service technician who is pretty smart. What I have learned is that when any manufacturer brings a whole new design on line, that there are issues in terms of repairing it right the first time. Even the vaunted Toyota and Honda owners suffer from the same malady with totally new systems.
Have tried as high as B20 and have experienced no issues in terms of performance or altered FE. Ran quieter though and had less vibration. There are no local stations that sell biodiesel. Closest on is about 25 miles north of here and they have B5. Have used that a few times and the CRD runs fine on that.
As to the USLD issue, EPA does not require all stations to carry ULSD. Up to 20% of diesel fuel can still be S500. I believe that by 2010, all diesel must be S15.
Enjoy your ice storm. Hope you do not have a power outage.
Our Green Beast is sealed in one and a half inch of ice. Now as the snow has started up, with ice and snow it does have a rather airodynamic look. The windshield is sloped from the top of the windshield to the front top of the grill is sloped and looks real cool! We can't even open the doors. We have not lost any power, but close to 100,000 home are with out electric and water, with little hope of reconnections until Wed. or Thurs. However our road up to our home has more than 2" of ice and only a fool would attempt going up or down. Missouri is a neat state because we get a wide varity, and we love green all over the place. We lived Phoenix and we hated the one hundred twenty + degrees, and the humid summers. We love it here. This state is a very good place to retire.
farout
When you have to drive downhill on an icy road, remember that the ABS has a strange behavior: when you use the brakes, the wheels block easily and the ABS loosens the brakes to let the tires grip again. During the time given to resume adherence, the transmission pulls the truck again. So you cannot stop the truck going downhill while the transmission is engaged. The ABS will stop you safely when you are in neutral (going down an icy slope of course).
Last but not least: forget the 4WD Part-Time on ice. This truck has a short wheelbase and rapidly slides sideways. Once it starts to get out of hand either you stop sliding naturally, either you engage the 4WD Full-Time and take control after a few "irrational trajectories". Try it once and you can repeat the recovery sequence fairly easily. It's quite pleasant to know how to recover a safe drive.
Last night it got down to -25C. Notice I used the C temp for you, I thought you might like that. We have 2" of ice covered with 1" of packed snow. My wife and I have been iced in here from last Thurs. night, and until the ice gets soggy we are not moving. Ice is not something I intend to deal with on the very steep hill we live on the top of. The ice- cycles on the eves of the house are mostly 18" long.
The Green Beast is frozen solid and doors and hood don't even come close to wanting to budge open. I am glad we are retired because there is no way anyone beyond our our home down the road are going any place. Gas generators are at a huge demand. The home improvement chain stores are issuing numbers to people and as the generators come in by the truck load. Most generators sell for $1,295.00 Finding gasoline has been a problem in Springfield MO, and several other places. Because the electricity being out, along with some houses that just can't keep enough heat has had the Red Cross, and Salvation Army have opened many places so people can be fed and sleep and kept warm. I have never seen so many people who really needed to be in these centers. I think on the Lake of the Ozarks there are about 10 to 15 such places. We have a Waterford Wood Stove ( made in Ireland) that we use for heat. This we can also cook on if we needed to. We designed our home to be so if we got stranded we could be fine for several weeks if we had to. It really feels good to be independent and self reliant. Has this winter been bad for you?
Farout
King5 video
Nescosmo.
The tech pulled out a lot of "gunk". They blamed it on the Rotella 5W40 and PowerService.
I am blaming it on the CCV system design.
I wonder if it will plug up the intake manifold to the point where it won't run right, I remember an earlier post about VW having that problem.
Any thoughts?
I can report about using winterized fuel during warm weather
Believe it or not, I get summer mileage now. So the temperature seems to play a very important role in the injection parameters.
Frankly, I do not know what to say at this point. I have switched over to Amsoil 5W-40 "CJ" rated oil and will watch the aftercooler hoses to see how much "gunk" they accumulate. If I start seeing an increase in "gunk" in the aftercooler hoses then I will switch back to the 15W-40 synthetic from Amsoil. While using that oil, the aforementioned hoses remained nearly dry with only a tiny bit of "gunk" that settled in the lowest portion of the hoses.
Or are we seeing the effects of the ABS system when a person's last reflex is to slam the brakes and wait?
I can't say with certianty about fuel mileage, as we have not even used a tank full yet. It may be a little less or the same, I just don't know yet. However, the shifts are more noticeable and firmer to feel. This is not bad as the soft smooth shift actually wares down the clutches, as the tec told me. One other thought is the winter fuel does not give as good of mpg, so some way this too has to be entered in to the fuel mileage.
Frankly i I think the F37 is a lot about not too much. I see it that we have a new torque converter, and my case it's after putting on 27,500 miles on the old one.
What kind and weight oil are you using? I went back to Mobile 1 5-40w after 8,000 miles on Shell Rotella 5-40w. That oil seemed to me to become sorts sluggy on the dip stick and the engine seemed more noisy. Besides the Rotella synthetic is not being repoduced.
Farout
Farout
Nescosmo.
But I wish more people could bring this to public attention. I have the feeling there is a bug in the logic of the ABS system. When we have the brake peddle pressed the transmission should never re engage. But who should hear this? From my side of the pond I'm just another "Don Quichotte"
The Liberty she drives is a 2006 Sport gas. The Liberty does have the EST and brake assist, and anti roll over stuff. With all that added heck, do we need a driver?
I was able to pull the 3 inches of ice off the hood, but the windshield has some long line cracks. When I can get out of here I will get the glass replace. The "Green Beast" starts right up and no smoke and using no block heater. Thanks again. Any other ideas to help in case of.....?
Farout
- Cold ashes from a fireplace are supposed to be excellent for a tire to grip on ice.
When you get stuck in an icy shallow pit that forms around your wheels by digging through snow or ice, there is usually no chance to pull out. Just sparkle a handful of ashes on the ice and around the tire. I've never tried this but I believe those who live in eagle nests
I found out that the 2006 Liberty's have a service note on how to clean these dirt-magnet seat covers. Wash with warn water only power vac. Then let dry, and repeat the same except with cold water, vac, and let dry, and vac once more. DCX says this won't fail......I wouldn't bet the farm on it!
Diesel is now $2.32 US here, and reg gas is $1.99, How much is the fuel there?
Oh I read that the Jeep Commander's days are limited and no more in 2009. I feel sorry for those who bought this gas hog box on wheels.
Farout
My BFG T/A tires have 38,000 miles and still give outstanding performance on crushed ice and snow. I was a bit doubtful entering the winter season due to the wear of their cutting edges: I was wrong.
I use NAPA Windshield Winter Blades that I strongly recommend. They don't completely cover the passenger side because of their additional stiffness but ice is no problem because of the way they are built. I can only complain about the accumulation of snow that gets stuffed into the groove located on the left side of the windshield. Snow accumulated outside cools the glass and this catches humidity that reduces the driver's view.
Good diesel fuel (Total Excellium) came down to 1.1 Euro per liter(~5.70USD/gal) and reg gas is practically the same price.
I lived in a village with steep hills everywhere. One day I couldn't get up any of the steep hills to my parents house. I backed down a steep hill and backed up another hill just to turn around but the car just kept going - got home in reverse. The leading edges of the tires were badly worn. I switched the tires around to put the sharp trailing edge the right direction and got through the rest of the winter on those hills.
Most people when stuck and "rocking" a vehicle jam the transmission into gear and floor it, then jam it into gear and floor it until they get unstuck or ruin the transmission. Here's a rocking tip that will not hurt the transmission and has never failed me. Gently move the vehicle forward (or backward) until it stops while applying the brake just before or right after it starts to spin at the end of the rock. Change gears (at an idle) while holding the brake, then release the brake while gently applying throttle. Applying the brake at the end of the rock helps hold a position further in the rock. Chances are you will drive out of the icy trough you made and get back on top of the packed snow in just 3 or 4 tries. Sounds simple, but I have never seen anyone do this.
I have helped people, that were stuck and destroying their car, by just asking them to get out and I would get behind the wheel and drive it out of the spot using this method. I love their stunned expressions. It is a waste of time to try to push someone who is frustrated.
But regarding the ABS combination with the gearbox being in Neutral position, I find tricky for the non 'addicted' people. Since our dear PCM (engine injection plus transmission synchronization calculator) gives or should give an alarm to the transmission controller to release the clutches that were being used at the moment the slippage began, I think the logic could wait for the throttle pedal to be pressed again before resuming previous drive selection.
I realize how people react when they loose control so a bit more value analysis here could be appreciated.
Nescosmo.
Nescosmo.
farout
Nescosmo.
farout
Nescosmo.
I am considering purchasing a Liberty CRD but have some concerns regarding various recurring issues such as EGR valve replacements.
I currently drive a 2002 VW Jetta TDI that I have made some standard modifications that other TDI owners regularly make. One of these modifications is removal of the EGR valve, EGR cooler and replacing the EGR valve with a straight through race pipe. This solves several problems including clogged EGR valves and intake manifolds. You wouldn't believe how much gunk was built up inside the EGR valve and intake manifold after 60,000 miles.
A subsequent ECU tuning to increase boost pressures, fueling, rev limiter, speed limiter and EGR delete to remove a related CEL worked wonders on the performance. FYI, TDI's in the German market don't have the EGR system and they have far less problems.
I live in Wisconsin which does not require diesels to go through emissions inspection/testing. Even if it did, it would still pass and most inspectors aren't intelligent enough to notice the difference. I wouldn't consider this modification while the vehicle was under warranty, but after the warranty was up I sure wouldn't be taking it back to the stealership to continually purchase/replace an EGR valve.
I also see that InMotion Tuning offers a performance ECU tuning that among other things, turns down the EGR setting.
Have any of you modified, bypassed or deleted the EGR valve or perhaps had a performance tune that took the EGR valve out of the picture?
If so, what has your experience been since the modification?
How difficult is it to remove/bypass the EGR valve on a Liberty CRD?
Thanks - Mark
EGR issues have been identified a long time ago and pushing the engine to it's limit for a very short period of time is a known remedy when you produce black smoke. When the turbo gets into action under full load at low engine speed it produces a blasting sound similar to a person blowing it's nose. This is where the 'nose' came from and the remedy is explained by Renault and local 'road angels'.
What it does is simply build up more pressure in both intake and exhaust manifolds. This helps closing the valve when it's hesitating, but cannot help much more. By doing it once a week you expect to stay away from trouble.
It's not Daimler that's ridiculous, it's simply to choose diesel fuel nowadays
any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Mine still works fine without the EGR valve.
I made a simple block of plate and inserted it between the EGR valve and the pipe that comes from the exhaust. I can very simply undo this and take it back to the dealer by flashing my ECU back to stock and removing my block off plate, 15 minutes tops!! The EGR is confirmed non functioning via the block off plate and no CEL.
I have confirmed that the tune eliminates the CEL by flashing my ECU back to stock and leaving the block off plate in place. Every time that I have done that, I got a CEL! I just wanted to offer a simple solution to the EGR. I know that there is the SEGR kit, but that requires splicing the wiring harness, which I didn't want to do.
This solution may allow those that have a dead egr to not spend $700 to fix it. They can call Charlie at KermaTDI.com and have him flash the ECU and block the thing off!!!.