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Sincerely,
David
:sick:
Is there a fuse associated with the fuel injectors?
Thanks
I am not sure if today's vehicles use that same, simple concept or something more complex, maybe involving the ECU.
You son's symptoms could be explained by a float that was sticking.
Then again, you can have your son just ignore the gas gauge and just fill it up based on miles driven, say every 200 miles if you want to be conservative.
The speedo will flicker up and down or sit on 0 and it loses some power as well sometimes when this happens.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
You have a solder crack on the ground, on the circuit board that is behind the speedometer. Pull everything apart, get the speedometer board out and inspect the dual inline connector, the pins that are soldered into the board. On close inspection, you will see the corner pin, the ground pin, with a crack in the solder around the pin.
This is causing intermittent, and when temps warm up, crack opens and the whole board is ungrounded. Symptoms include no start, especially after car sits in sun for a bit. Before you open up the dash, try banging your fist on the top when it won't start. If it starts, that is for sure your problem. good luck
You have a solder crack on the ground, on the circuit board that is behind the speedometer. Pull everything apart, get the speedometer board out and inspect the dual inline connector, the pins that are soldered into the board. On close inspection, you will see the corner pin, the ground pin, with a crack in the solder around the pin.
This is causing intermittent, and when temps warm up, crack opens and the whole board is ungrounded. Symptoms include no start, especially after car sits in sun for a bit. Before you open up the dash, try banging your fist on the top when it won't start. If it starts, that is for sure your problem. good luck
* digg
The one thing I never did was call or go to my local Chrysler dealer's parts dept until yesterday. Chrysler knew that the 96-99 models of these vans were prone to this condition. But their response to it is this- They make a replacement Idler Pulley Bracket, Part # 4612 412. It cost $106. They(or at least the TSB the parts guy read from) says that it is an ALIGNMENT problem more than anything, and replacing the stock bracket to which the idler pulley is mounted to with this new design is supposed to take care of this without the need to go to the above double-sided belt kit I mentioned above. I held this part in my hand yesterday and it looks to me like it replaces the motor mount as well. All I(and my son and his family) want is for this problem to go away. These replacement kits with 2 pulleys(some include a new tensioner)and belt cost anywhere from $95, and I've been quoted prices from local parts stores as high as $150+.
My question is- Are any of you out there familiar with this problem and if so, which remedy did you use? I wonder if there is a how-to video on Chrysler's bracket replacement deal? If anyone can help with this, I'd be most appreciative as my son has saved money for over 2 months to DO SOMETHING ASAP so he doesn't have to deal with this craziness any longer. Thanks to all and have a Blessed day.. (Mike)
I had the serpentine belt trouble I fixed with aftermarket (identical to oem) tensioner, I found out you are supposed to replace them fairly often esp. If the belt slips off or breaks causing it to snap back hard (cost $15). The easiest way to do it is from underneath with ratchet and extensions at least one wobbly I think it was 15mm.