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Chuck :mad:
I purchased a used '01 Alero about three years ago. At first, I was getting 35 mpg highway. However, I noticed that in the Winter, the mileage dipped to 20 or lower in the city. Not much better highway. I have also noted that the colder, the worse it gets. Another point is my summer mileage has dropped to about 28-30 highway.
I am wondering where to start. Mileage is at around 61,000 and the manual says a tune up isn't called for yet, which seems hard to believe.
Anyways, I'm wondering if anyone else has had this dilemma and solved it. Any advice is welcome actually. I am contemplating a diagnostic check, but not sure if it would be better to just get the spark plug changed. The car runs fine, so I am clueless as to the poor mileage.
Thanks
Thanks in advance for your help.
What do you mean you "tightened" the loose rockers? Do you mean you tightened them to zero lash and then turned them down so many turns per the service manual?
I'm assuming that your dealing with a V6.
I changed plugs wires and fuel filter w/ OE replacement parts and the scan tool doesnt give any codes b/c no engine light comes on. AAAAHHHHHHHH!!! I do most of the repairs on my cars so I dont have to pay these jerks at the shop but I'm lost on this one. I've never had a car that obviously has a problem not indicate that on a diagnostic tool. Anyone got any answers for a frustrated shadetree mechanic??
1. Defective or loose fuel cap
2. Evap canister or hose cracked-not connected
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective
4. Vacuum leak at engine
Starting with the most likely to the least likely. I already replaced the fuel cap and am wondering where the evap canister or vent solenoid is located? can anyone help me please. thanks so much Chris Davis
Thanks
Bryan
Thanks
Bryan
just now have the same problem. The dealer said $331 for the parts. Where did you get yours?
Thanks
1-800-442-6537
Any one have a guess as to how big a problem this really is? I.E. every V6 engine?
MM2K
Olds Assistance Ctr called back. After talking with the Service Manager at the dealer, Their official position is that since they replaced the IM gaskets already and my car is now out of its warrenty period, they will NOT be able to assist with any of the costs associated with this repair. I pointed out to them that I was on this board and several others and that this issue IS taking place, not only with the Alero but with many other makes that incorporate a V6 using PLASTIC intake manifold gaskets. Their response was, If the information wasn't on an OFFICIAL GM web site it was not accurate and could not be trusted as any one could post bad or misleading information aboout GM and its vehicles.
I then explained to them that I had also contacted 3 repair shops and got basically the same info as is posted here. That being, the plastic gaskets are failing and have since been replaced (at least by Fel Pro) with a rubberized steel gasket set. The response to that was, Were those GM "Certified" mechanics and or GM dealer mechanics? When I said they weren't Dealer mechanics and I wasn't sure if they were GM "Certified" I was told that those mechanics couldn't possibly know that this was an issue of faulty gaskets. So in short, any information gleened from web sites or mechanics not directly under GM's control, it is nothing but lies in the sight of GM.
I am now taking this issue up with the Better Business Bureau, and reporters with the local news media, in the hope that they can help bring this issue out into the open, so we can all know the truth.
The mechanic I am choosing to use for the repair's estimate is $560.00. Significantly less than the dealers price. They also told me that they are doing a lot of GM V6 intake manifolds.
MM2K
2003 Olds Alero
2.2L EconoTech 4 Cylinder
Disks on front/Drums on Rear :sick: :confuse:
I am having some major break issues I cannot seem to figure out. My front breaks were rubbing, so I pulled the pads off and replaced them, like I have at least 4 times previous. I get the car put all back together and the first thing I notice when I get back into the car is that the break pedal is going all the way to the floor. So I bake the car up a little and the breaks aren't releasing all the way. I thought maybe they would loosen up a little and adjust as I drove down the highway, so I go and floor the pedal a few times and the car slows down, but the wheels doesn't lock up like they should (No anti-lock breaks) and I smell breaks burning. So I turn around go back home and take the breaks back apart to make sure I didnt miss anything, and it all looked fine. I put the breaks back together and try to drive again but this time the breaks aren't not releasing but the pedal is still going all the way to the floor, and still dont have good breaks. I thought that maybe somehow air got in the lines so I bled the front breaks like crazy and still no breaks.
With the engine not running the break pedal feels like it should, but as soon as I start the engine the pedal goes straight to the floor. When I bled the breaks I was getting good fluid flow. I dont think its the booster, in cars in the past with a booster that went out the break pedal was like having manual breaks, it was hard to push.
So when I get back in from work today I am going to see what else I can do... If anyone has ANY ideas I am all ears!!! I think I removed each front tire like 5 times last night bleeding, and tearing the break pads out and putting them back on.
I KNOW they are the right pads, and I have replaced these pads at least 4 times, so I KNOW I have them on right!
Any how, any suggestions GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks in advance!!!
Wes
I wanted to send an update, if anyone has any other suggestions, I am still all ears!
Thanks in advance!
Wes
Note: When I had the master cylinder removed I checked the break booster and the shaft IS pushing out when the break pedal is pushed in. There is no play between the shaft that pierces the firewall and the brake pedal. So I dont know!!!
Thanks again!
There are numerous "Class Action" suits against GM on this issue. At the heart of them is the "Dex Cool" antifreeze. Check the link pasted below.
http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/
I am now negotiating with GM and the dealership after filing a complaint with the BBB. It helped get their attention.
MM2K
Thank you for all the good ideas.
I am having the same symptoms as what you had. I replaced the front brake pads and the pedal feels good with the engine off. Turn the engine on and the pedal goes to the floor. I too have bled all the brakes and have very good fluid flow. What was your resolve?
Help jtsmith121