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Oldsmobile Alero Maintenance and Repair

24

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    chbiiichbiii Member Posts: 1
    Trying to replace horn with a horn that can be heard more than 5 feet away, but I cant find the %#@* horn under the hood. HELP!!!!

    Chuck :mad:
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    imaniimani Member Posts: 1
    Mine has pretty much had all of the frequent reocurring problems from prior discussions. The one that is plaguing me the most may have something to do with the catalytic converter (I had 2 replaced last year), yet my car continues to accelerate below the 6 cyl performance. In addition it goes through a full tank of gas in 4-5 days. This began to occur about 4 mths ago. The auto shop mentioned a 'misfiring' of some sort and oil in the coolant pipes or something. Anybody else have these problems?
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    isabelle3474isabelle3474 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Alero that has been in the shop three times in the last few months and the problem hasn't been fixed. When I am idling at a stop light the car idles really hard and acts like it wants to die. It actually does die when I am idling in traffic after driving on the Interstate (it only dies after a distance of 15+ miles on the highway). The car always starts right up again. So far I've paid for new spark plugs, boots, distributor cap, air filter, fuel filter, oil change, battery and fuel system cleaning. The best is the last place I went to that told me it was the battery and ended up screwing up my temperature gauge to where the needle is rotated all the way backwards!! Any ideas? Maybe the PCV valve or water pump or is this electrical and related to the other problems I'm having? In reading some of these forums, I've realized I have a lot of the same problems as others. My cruise control quit working, the CD player doesn't work anymore, the radio defaults back to Manual for the sound setting when you change it, the driver's side mirror controls don't work anymore, when the temperature is cold or damp, the ABS and low tracking lights come on when I pull into parking spaces, etc.
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    theidttheidt Member Posts: 1
    My heating on a 2000 oldsmobile alero 2.4L 4Cyl will start up when I start the car. It will make a humming or vibrating sound then will just completely stop working. I can tap the dashboard with a fair amount of force and it will start working again...lately this hasn't been working so I am assuming that it has finally failed. I was wondering if someone could tell me if its located behind the glove box and how much it will generally cost to fix? Thanks
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    debish63debish63 Member Posts: 1
    When I put fluid in reservoir, the fluid soon disappears. Even before it's gone, the fluid doesn't come out of the wipers. Any advice? The reservoir seems to be located at the bottom of the car and how does one get to it? Does the car have to be up in the air to gain access? I have a 2002 V6. Thanks in advance for any advice you might have.
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Which engine? Are you using fuel with a high ethanol content?
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    robenzo72robenzo72 Member Posts: 2
    Hello to all you other fortunate Alero owners!

    I purchased a used '01 Alero about three years ago. At first, I was getting 35 mpg highway. However, I noticed that in the Winter, the mileage dipped to 20 or lower in the city. Not much better highway. I have also noted that the colder, the worse it gets. Another point is my summer mileage has dropped to about 28-30 highway.

    I am wondering where to start. Mileage is at around 61,000 and the manual says a tune up isn't called for yet, which seems hard to believe.

    Anyways, I'm wondering if anyone else has had this dilemma and solved it. Any advice is welcome actually. I am contemplating a diagnostic check, but not sure if it would be better to just get the spark plug changed. The car runs fine, so I am clueless as to the poor mileage.

    Thanks
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    robenzo72robenzo72 Member Posts: 2
    2.4 L 4 Cylinder. I use good quality gas ( Shell, usually ) 87 Octane.
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    ball9456ball9456 Member Posts: 1
    My front power windows do not work - the back do. I've changed motors for both, the switches for both and neither are working. Does anyone have any idea what other fixes I could try?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
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    ffwillyffwilly Member Posts: 1
    Where is the fuel filter located? I've heard above the rear axle and that it requires removing the axle to replace it. Is this truth or fiction?
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    kwb007kwb007 Member Posts: 2
    hi there. damn compared to me that is excellent gas mileage. i spent the winter geting a whopping 12 miles per gallon city driving, and only went high way driving once and got 24mpg so consider yourself lucky. i currently only have 35000 miles on a 2002 alero V6 and they just changed my spark plugs(at 35000 miles that seems ridiculous) cause they said they were worn out and they changed the fuel filter, . didnt help much but now the weather is warmer it is getting better gas mileage not great still though but yeah it does eat it up more during winter and idleing a bit but cmon 12 mpg i may as well buy a damn 4*4. I also been putting some high quality fuel injectors cleaners in as well which is a good thing but cant say it helped or not. Suffice to say that a person has to be one lucky sob i think to land a alero that is going to go the distance without consistenly having problems but thats far and few for this car i think
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    kwb007kwb007 Member Posts: 2
    when making the mistake and buying lemons like aleros. i think its best for a person to do their best to learn how to fix a lot of the problems yourself, to save money. getting a dealer manual for it and a good quality obd2 code reader prob is a good start. im not the most mechanically inclined but its not all rocket science, knowing how to do something even like changing your own rotors and brakes on the pos will save lots and thats just one thing, just sucks when [non-permissible content removed] breaks down in winter time and you dont have your own heated garage to park it in and work on it and we all know winter is when all this [non-permissible content removed] happens
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    aaron1100usaaron1100us Member Posts: 3
    My wife's friend has a 2003 Alero. It had a knock and I discovered three of the rocker arms were loose and the push rod on #4 intake went through the rocker arm. I've never seen this before. What is the cause? I replaced the one rocker arm and push rod and tightened the other two rocker arms. I drove it around the block and it was fine. The owner picked it up and it makes the same noise again. She had a rocker arm replaced about a year ago. Any idea why this is happening?
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Do you mean the push rod had worn a hole through the rocker arm? The only way I can think that would happen, if that's the case, is no oil getting pumped to that point.
    What do you mean you "tightened" the loose rockers? Do you mean you tightened them to zero lash and then turned them down so many turns per the service manual?
    I'm assuming that your dealing with a V6.
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    aaron1100usaaron1100us Member Posts: 3
    I'm thinking that the loose rocker caused the push rod to hit the rocker arm and that caused it to "punch" a hole through the rocker arm. On these rocker arms, you tighten them to a specific torque instead of tightening them to zero lash and then turning them down so many turns. In other words, they aren't adjustable. But I don't have a service manual so I wasn't perfect on the torque. They should have been torqued previously though and the bolts should not have come loose. Can't figure it out. Yes, this is a 3.4L V6.
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I suppose it could be excessive wear on the rocker arms due to poor oil flow, or some just weren't tightnened properly from day one. Rather unusual. How many miles are on it?
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    nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    2000 alero 3.4 v6...12 mpg
    I changed plugs wires and fuel filter w/ OE replacement parts and the scan tool doesnt give any codes b/c no engine light comes on. AAAAHHHHHHHH!!! I do most of the repairs on my cars so I dont have to pay these jerks at the shop but I'm lost on this one. I've never had a car that obviously has a problem not indicate that on a diagnostic tool. Anyone got any answers for a frustrated shadetree mechanic??
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    ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    Any other symptoms other than poor FE? Any smoke, poor performance, etc. How about gas leaks when stopped or running?
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    nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    the exhaust seems a little thick but i havent noticed any funny smells and i dont smell gas at all. im thinking i wont buy another one.
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    nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    not sure if your still wondering but on my 2000 olds alero "p.o.s.", im pretty sure it was on the axle behind the fuel tank. kind of a pain to get off but overall it was a simple job.
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    fbirgefbirge Member Posts: 1
    hey this is fran and pete ,were having the same problem that you had. Did you ever find out what was wronge, because we've changed everything that we could change and we;er still having the same problem with the car. we have changed, the ing module,coil packs, spark plugs,and boots,ing module housing,cant figure it out.............
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    chkchilchkchil Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to remove the passenger side door panel on a 2000 alero, to gain access to the track for the window
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    deftones1deftones1 Member Posts: 1
    So the Autozone's device that checks the "check engine" light told me it registered as an EVAP problem. that...
    1. Defective or loose fuel cap
    2. Evap canister or hose cracked-not connected
    3. Purge or vent solenoid defective
    4. Vacuum leak at engine

    Starting with the most likely to the least likely. I already replaced the fuel cap and am wondering where the evap canister or vent solenoid is located? can anyone help me please. thanks so much Chris Davis
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    homer575homer575 Member Posts: 2
    It isn't the reservoir, it's the line that runs from that to your wipers, at least mine was. The way the line is run it rubs against the frame of the car a wears a hole in it. Just a basic rubber hose. Try following it from your reservoir to your pump and see if there is a hole in it.
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    homer575homer575 Member Posts: 2
    if you didn't find your horn yet it is on the passenger side of the car under the hood. Just take out your left headlight and you'll will see it, it's a tight fit but it's doable. But before you do, I should tell you that's not going to do it. It's the contact switch in the steering wheel, don't know what causes it but my 03 alero did it too. There is a high note and a low note horn under the hood. It seems to blow out your high note before blowing the fuse. I replaced my high note and it worked for about a week and the blew out again. If you can manage to fix the contact switch under the hood then you can replace the horn, but I wouldn't do it before, just a waste of time and money. Also, get one from a bone yard, a new one will run you about $50, mine cost me $5.
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    j2wicej2wice Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Alero and jus the same problems everyone else with the security ligt and the brakes, but now I need serious help. Left yesterday went 15 minutes no problem stopped and ran into the gas station came out and the car will not start. It is getting spark and fuel but will not catch to turn over. Any ideas??????
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    sjohns1sjohns1 Member Posts: 2
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    sjohns1sjohns1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Alero 5 speed with 56000 miles on it..in very good shape. Tried to take key out today and it will not release. Cant get key out of ignition. Have never had a problem with it before. The car is in reverse..shifts into reverse..no problem..wont release key. Could this be a security setting problem or is it more mechanical? Or electrical? Thanks..
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    bjgreischbjgreisch Member Posts: 5
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    bjgreischbjgreisch Member Posts: 5
    Was wondering if anyone out there has had this problem and if they got it fixed. We have taken the care to a mechanic and they did the smoke test and they could not find the leak, they thought maybe it was the o-ring on top the gas tank because that was the only place they could not test the system, so I replaced the o-ring and that did not work. So was wondering if anyone had this problem and found the solution. believe the code number was PO442.
    Thanks
    Bryan
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The gas cap has been checked for cracks in the seal, and it's on correctly, right?
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    robwhitrobwhit Member Posts: 13
    My 2002 alero steering was getting noisy even though there was fluid in pump-Then when I had wheels turned hard to the left and holding it there for about 10 secs with engine running the power assist quit and will not return. Is there a relief valve that might have stuck or other sensors that would have quit? Before there was oil movement in pump when engine running but none now. Rebuilt pump at Discount Murrays is $79. Not sure how much labor is involved to change it. Has anyone changed their power steering pump? Could my steering rack be damaged?
    Thanks
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    zachery38zachery38 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 alero and the a/c only works on high. I had to charge it just to get it to work at all. But, I have been looking for the temperature control switch on the instrument panel thinking that maybe that is the problem. I can't find a replacement anywhere. Has anyone else ever had this problem? Or have any suggestions as to where I can find one? Thanks!
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    What do you mean that the A/C only works on "high"? Are you referring to the fan speed or to something else?
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    bjgreischbjgreisch Member Posts: 5
    Yep we replaced the fuel cap, that was the first thing we did.
    Bryan
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    144tap144tap Member Posts: 44
    I'm interested in some info on the IML problem that (burdawg) spoke of in earlier forms. I've got an 01 3400 Lero with coolant leaking as described by (joejoejo). I've had quotes of $700/$800 for repairs. As per (burdawg), how common a problem is this? Meaning, does GM have a bad motor on their hands and will help out w /a fix...ha ha. Inquiring minds would like to know. Thanks.
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    oldguy9oldguy9 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    just now have the same problem. The dealer said $331 for the parts. Where did you get yours?
    Thanks
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    mm2kmm2k Member Posts: 3
    I'm now having this problem for the SECOND time with my 2000 3.4 V6. Happened at 15k miles (under warrenty thank God) and now again at 44.8K. Dealer wants $950 plus tax to do the job. I have a call into the Oldsmobile Customer Assistance Center and am waiting to hear back from them and the dealership on what if anything they can or will do. Sounds like this is happening more than the dealer let on, as I speciffically asked what was causing this and if there was a defect some where. Will be checking with a local and highly recommended mechanic tomorrow and will post his estimate as well as the results from Olds and the dealer. If you would like the number for Olds Customer Assistance Center, here it is.

    1-800-442-6537

    Any one have a guess as to how big a problem this really is? I.E. every V6 engine?

    MM2K
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    mm2kmm2k Member Posts: 3
    Adendum to previous post #89

    Olds Assistance Ctr called back. After talking with the Service Manager at the dealer, Their official position is that since they replaced the IM gaskets already and my car is now out of its warrenty period, they will NOT be able to assist with any of the costs associated with this repair. I pointed out to them that I was on this board and several others and that this issue IS taking place, not only with the Alero but with many other makes that incorporate a V6 using PLASTIC intake manifold gaskets. Their response was, If the information wasn't on an OFFICIAL GM web site it was not accurate and could not be trusted as any one could post bad or misleading information aboout GM and its vehicles.

    I then explained to them that I had also contacted 3 repair shops and got basically the same info as is posted here. That being, the plastic gaskets are failing and have since been replaced (at least by Fel Pro) with a rubberized steel gasket set. The response to that was, Were those GM "Certified" mechanics and or GM dealer mechanics? When I said they weren't Dealer mechanics and I wasn't sure if they were GM "Certified" I was told that those mechanics couldn't possibly know that this was an issue of faulty gaskets. So in short, any information gleened from web sites or mechanics not directly under GM's control, it is nothing but lies in the sight of GM.

    I am now taking this issue up with the Better Business Bureau, and reporters with the local news media, in the hope that they can help bring this issue out into the open, so we can all know the truth.

    The mechanic I am choosing to use for the repair's estimate is $560.00. Significantly less than the dealers price. They also told me that they are doing a lot of GM V6 intake manifolds.

    MM2K
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    green100green100 Member Posts: 3
    Our 99 alero has 130000 miles, started hesitating when accelerating, then at 40 to 50 mph while driving. Today it died completely. Have done regular maintenance always, first real serious issue mechanically. Any ideas?
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    joejoejojoejoejo Member Posts: 3
    Never had this problem on my Alero, but it sounds similiar to a situation I once had with my 99 Dodge Dakota. It did exactly what you said, in the same order even. The problem was the insides of the catalytic converter started breaking up and where basically acting like popcorn bouncing around and sometimes temporarily clogging the flow of exhaust. Eventually it died just as you explained and the mechanic later found that a peice of the clay, or whatever material is inside the converter, had gotten lodged in the hole killing the engine. Hope this helps. Might be an easy fix. Most states if you bring it to a shop they have to put a new catalytic converter on, so if you know someone that is a mechanic have them do it. If you don't have emissions testing the solution may be as easy as cutting the pipe by the converter and knocking the clay out of it. Hope this helps.
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Fuel pump would be the first place I would look.
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    green100green100 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you both, at least now we have someplace to start. Will let you know what we find out.
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    wes_030wes_030 Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone.. new to the forum...

    2003 Olds Alero

    2.2L EconoTech 4 Cylinder

    Disks on front/Drums on Rear :sick: :confuse:

    I am having some major break issues I cannot seem to figure out. My front breaks were rubbing, so I pulled the pads off and replaced them, like I have at least 4 times previous. I get the car put all back together and the first thing I notice when I get back into the car is that the break pedal is going all the way to the floor. So I bake the car up a little and the breaks aren't releasing all the way. I thought maybe they would loosen up a little and adjust as I drove down the highway, so I go and floor the pedal a few times and the car slows down, but the wheels doesn't lock up like they should (No anti-lock breaks) and I smell breaks burning. So I turn around go back home and take the breaks back apart to make sure I didnt miss anything, and it all looked fine. I put the breaks back together and try to drive again but this time the breaks aren't not releasing but the pedal is still going all the way to the floor, and still dont have good breaks. I thought that maybe somehow air got in the lines so I bled the front breaks like crazy and still no breaks.

    With the engine not running the break pedal feels like it should, but as soon as I start the engine the pedal goes straight to the floor. When I bled the breaks I was getting good fluid flow. I dont think its the booster, in cars in the past with a booster that went out the break pedal was like having manual breaks, it was hard to push.

    So when I get back in from work today I am going to see what else I can do... If anyone has ANY ideas I am all ears!!! I think I removed each front tire like 5 times last night bleeding, and tearing the break pads out and putting them back on.

    I KNOW they are the right pads, and I have replaced these pads at least 4 times, so I KNOW I have them on right!

    Any how, any suggestions GREATLY appreciated!

    Thanks in advance!!!

    Wes
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    wes_030wes_030 Member Posts: 2
    I have an update. Called my local AutoZone for suggestions. They told me that if it was the booster that the break pedal would be hard as heck to push. They said sounded like master cylinder to them, so I removed my old one (BTW, didnt know you had to reuse the container, which after two deep cuts to my fingers I got removed) but I got home placed the new master cylinder on the car, filled with brake fluid, bled the break, both front and rear, and still the same issue. Could it be the lines, maybe trash in the lines? When I bleed the breaks I get get fluid flow out the bleed valves. I read on another site to take one of the lines off the master cylinder and press and hold the breaks and see if you have fluid flow. I did this and got good flow through the line closest to the front of the car, but the one to the rear of the car didn't have the pressure output that the front one did. I am really at my wits end here. Its been a great car, especially after reading a lot of the problems that a lot of you others are having with your aleros. It has the 2.2L EconoTech engine, its pretty good on gas, and has a decent amount of "Get up and Go" for a little 4 cylinder!
    I wanted to send an update, if anyone has any other suggestions, I am still all ears!

    Thanks in advance!
    Wes

    Note: When I had the master cylinder removed I checked the break booster and the shaft IS pushing out when the break pedal is pushed in. There is no play between the shaft that pierces the firewall and the brake pedal. So I dont know!!!

    Thanks again!
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    mm2kmm2k Member Posts: 3
    Addendum to post #90

    There are numerous "Class Action" suits against GM on this issue. At the heart of them is the "Dex Cool" antifreeze. Check the link pasted below.

    http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/

    I am now negotiating with GM and the dealership after filing a complaint with the BBB. It helped get their attention.

    MM2K
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    sleemansleeman Member Posts: 2
    Mirror fell off in hot sun today, any special bonding agent to be used in adhering it to the windshield? :
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    ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    Get a bonding kit at an auto parts store such as Pep Boys.
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    green100green100 Member Posts: 3
    Had the throttle body cleaned! Put her through her paces and she runs like young girl of 80000 miles! Thank you for the help, hope this saves someone else a bundle. Our mechanic wanted $95.00 just to diagnose. This fix was $28.00 at Pep Boys. Just had to ask for it. A friend has a 2001 Alero, had the same problem, had spent $268.00 on parts she didn't need until her friend suggested this fix.

    Thank you for all the good ideas. :)
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    jtsmith121jtsmith121 Member Posts: 1
    Hello wes_30,

    I am having the same symptoms as what you had. I replaced the front brake pads and the pedal feels good with the engine off. Turn the engine on and the pedal goes to the floor. I too have bled all the brakes and have very good fluid flow. What was your resolve?

    Help jtsmith121
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