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It was a rumor when I posted, but it is no more.
Planned Honda turbodiesel for U.S. would likely debut on Civic, Accord or CR-V
By KATHY JACKSON | AUTOMOTIVE NEWS
AutoWeek | Published 07/09/06, 1:48 pm et
VANCOUVER, British Columbia -- When Honda sells its first diesel engine in the United States, it likely will be in the Civic, Accord or CR-V.
John Watts, manager of Honda's U.S. product planning, said Honda plans to introduce a clean-burning, 2.2-liter turbodiesel in the United States within three years.
"That 2.2 could probably crank out about 200 horsepower and about 220 (pounds-feet of) torque at little rpm," he said at a press event here. "Vehicles like the Pilot (SUV) and Odyssey (minivan) are too big for a four-cylinder."
Honda sells a 2.2-liter, four-cylinder turbodiesel engine in Europe, but Watts says it does not meet U.S. emission standards.
Takeo Fukui, Honda Motor Co. CEO, said in late June that the company will unveil a four-cylinder diesel in the United States that will run as clean as a gasoline engine.
Watts thinks diesel will catch on in this country if the engines can go 400 miles on a single tank of fuel.
"I think four cylinders and diesels make a lot of sense with the price of gas," Watts says. "But we're looking at everything -- diesels, compressed natural gas, fuel cells, hybrids and E85. We don't believe there's one solution."
Watts also said the Honda Division may need to add another SUV to its lineup.
"We don't know what it will be yet," he says. "Maybe something between a minivan and a SUV. But we do need something between the CR-V and the Pilot."
I wonder if they regret not making the CR-V a little bigger, to compete with the RAV4's available 3rd row?
-juice
-juice
The Element has the wash and wear floor, plus the rear seats can be removed to create an enormous cargo area. Very nice for anyone toting bikes or puppies with dirty feet. The cargo floor is also lower to the ground.
However, the Element has less cargo space when the rear seats are in place. The interior isn't as nice. Fuel economy is a wee bit lower.
The CR-V has a split gate in the back. I frequently used this to give my hounds some air without giving them the opportunity to run amuck at a rest stop. (Greyhounds will get into trouble at 40 mph.) It has a full-size spare, so flats can be dealt with easily. The CR-V also has extra storage under the cargo floor for things puppies should not be getting into.
However, the CR-V is carpeted and won't clean up so easy. It's also a bit more expensive.
It is indeed a snap on. Check out the hitch installation instructions from HandA (banner on top of the page)
You can get the parts from a number of online dealerships, pick the closest to you to save on shipping.
San Leandro Honda CA
Majestic Honda, RI
Ray Laks, Buffalo, NY
And my personal favorite Fair Honda, Danbury, CT.
Some of them don't list all the parts online, but if you call the number and tell them that you are calling to get website pricing on the parts, they will connect you to appropriate person.
Car with splashguards: 23409.00
Doc fee 299.00
Sales Tax 1422.48
Registration 165.00
Total out the door 25295.48
I put a good chunk down and got the Honda Financing for 60 months @ 4.9%. I know the documentation prep charge of 299 is sort of bunk, but I think I did ok.... I really like the car. It's good to be higher up off the ground again......
"Answer = Hi, At times I am outraged by some dealer practices, but this is not one of those times. The dealer did the right thing by changing the transmission oil at 30K. Honda (the manufacturer, not the dealer) came out with insane maintenance recommendations starting with the 2000 model year. I've overheard new car salesmen saying things like, "You could weld the hood shut until 105,000 miles", which is when the first really big service is scheduled. Honda (the manufacturer) is misrepresenting the amount of maintenance your car really needs. For example, the Honda Civic uses screw and jamb nut style valves, which need adjustment at least every 30,000 miles, yet the first valve adjustment is due at 105K. I've not seen a 2000 & up Civic burn a valve yet, but I have seen two CR-Vs with valve damage at 45,000 & 50,000 miles. Honda (the manufacturer) is putting the responsibility of getting the valves adjusted on the dealer (or independent) techs by including the instruction "adjust valves if needed" in the workshop manual 30K,60K,90K,and 120K lists. Since Honda valves tend to get tight, and tight valves show no signs of being tight until it's too late and damage is being done, and there is no way check valve clearance short of removing the valve cover and checking all the valves, and checking the valves and adjusting the valves takes the same amount of time, "adjust valves if needed" is in essence the same as saying "adjust valves". Your warranty only lasts 36,000 miles, and there will almost certainly be no symptoms from their very light maintenance schedule in that amount of time. However, if you want to keep your car for 100,000 miles and beyond, you would be well advised to beef up the maintenance recommended in your manual. In my opinion Honda has traded the appearance of low total cost of ownership for their future reputation for reliability. It should be good for fleet sales, but bad for total sales in the long run. Here's the good news -- if you want to save some money, check your area for Honda specialty shop that has a good reputation. You will likely end up spending less money for a service that includes everything your car really need than you would at the dealer for just the services the manufacturer recommends. Good luck, Paul"
http://www.artsautomotive.com/ask-the-pros-answers.htm
Extended service intervals may be a selling point for the manufacturers, but too many warranty claims hits the bottom line. I don't think manufacturers are going to stretch intervals out unrealistically since it would come back to bite them, both in warranty claims and damage to their reliability reputations.
Thanks.
George in IL
tidester, host
chintan32, "Talk to the Press" #1056, 10 Aug 2006 10:23 am
-juice
Thanks!
New unpainted bumpers from SE (different part umber from LX/EX) are about $200 front and $350 rear. They can be painted to match for about $250.
dae: Are you saying that one can't simply paint LX/EX bumpers but have to buy unpainted SE bumbers and paint them? Is it because they are from different material, like plastic vs. metal?
Also if I buy LX or EX with standard bumpers, I assume I can still have this painting done later for about the same price as I would get when buying the car. Correct?
Thanks again.
I think (I am not an expert) that those from SE have a smoother, non-textured surface.
Your local paint shop may tell you if they can prep the surface well enough - I would think it would require a thick base layer, and that may make the paint job less durable.
I painted side moldings on one of my cars once, and they a did an absolutely great job.
Also if I buy LX or EX with standard bumpers, I assume I can still have this painting done later for about the same price as I would get when buying the car. Correct?
I am sure if you wait and shop around you can get always get a better deal.
Your best bet is to talk with the people who do this kind of work for a living. Call the body shop. Explain what you want. Show them pictures if that is possible. It's worth noting that the SE bumpers are not covered completely. Then have them draw up an estimate.
When the sunvisors in my 2005 CRV LX are down, they won't stay up against the windshield. Instead, they bounce back down partway & block more of the view than I'd like for them to.
When they're folded away, there's no problem in getting them to stay in place next to the roof.
Would it help to tighten - or loosen - something on the visors? Is there a way to make the visors stay put to block the glare without coming down so far over the windshield that they block the view?
Thanks very much,
-sbn
Having said all that, my problem was that they hung down when they should have been up. And I'm not sure the 2nd gen uses the same design.
Thanks >M
A lot of my boating friends overload their Yakima and Thule racks and they aren't failing. Everyone I paddle with is good about tying down the front and rear of the boats to the bumpers, as well as tying a couple of lines or straps across the boats to the racks. That way, if the rack fails, the boats should stay attached to the car until you can pull over.
I had a cheap rack fail 30 years ago and I had tied the front and rear painters of my canoe to the bumper and all that happened was some scratches on the roof. I have known a whitewater kayaker or two who have had their inadequately secured boats fly off onto the highway (fortunately without injury to anyone following!).
I think Quick 'N Easy are the best racks but few cars have external rain gutters anymore. Here's an example of my tie system:
link.
What are going to do is unbalance the vehicle. SUVs are not known for their cornering stability. Although the CR-V is far from the tippiest on the market, it is still a top-heavy vehicle. Adding weight on the roof isn't going to improve that.
Since Honda is not a company which enjoys being sued, we figure they rate the roof rack with an eye on legal defense. Every company does this, but it seems that Honda takes it to an extreme.
Now, you can overload the rack if you want to. I've done it myself. But you do so at your own risk with the understanding that Honda recommends against it.
My recommendation is to look into getting a class I hitch and a trailer. Combined, that'll cost you between $800-1,000. That's a good $300-500 more than a Thule roof-mounted system (depending on model), but the trailer is a whole lot easier for loading and unloading.
I pulled a trailer behind my CJ-5 briefly years ago but it was a bit of a pain (those narrow dirt access roads again). I wound up with a custom rack for the Jeep (and that was a different sort of pain when the welding failed).
Worse comes to worse, you could always buy a couple of inflatable kayaks. :shades:
Don't paint those bumpers, the first parking ding you get you'll wish you hadn't.
-juice
Report the gas station to the authorities. The only way you could get that much fuel into a CR-V is if the pump is lying about how much gas you are buying.
Report the gas station to the authorities. The only way you could get that much fuel into a CR-V is if the pump is lying about how much gas you are buying.
Either the station is not calibrated or OP is filling his evaporative canister which will fail soon throwing a check engine light.
Manual specifically states: "Do not top off" Is it so important to squeeze few extra gallons after the automatic shut off?
I regularly get 300 city miles on a fill up until the light comes on. How many more miles does OP get when filling to the brim and possibly damaging evaporative canister?
I have a 2005 EX 5MAN.
-juice
I'd look for leaks.. :surprise:
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Something is wrong with that CR-V. 16 gallons???
Also, the 07 models are about to come out, check out that thread for pics of the new interior, which is a bit nicer IMO.
-juice