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I paid 23,069 after taxes. I finaced it at 4.6% with $10,000 down. I think after the interest after 60 months the total cost for me will be $24,710.
Was this a good deal? Just curisous. Thanks
Can anyone give me advice on a plan of attack? Do I test drive first and tell them i'm still comparing, then come home and get an internet quote? Or should I test drive and if it's teh car I want then just go in with the numbers and deal with a sales guy on the spot?
Please help, I also have no problem with walking away and holding out for a phone call, but i just really need to know how to begin.
Thanks in advance!
thanks!
IMO, overly aggressive and also something that the dealer will see thru to the point of ignoring you. If I was that second dealer in your sequence I wouldn't give you the time of day. Sooner or later you are spending a lot of time 'fighting' over $50 - on a $25000 vehicle. Waste of time for me and for him. Simply use the internet to find out who will give you the best price and then go get the car from him if he has the actual vehicle you want. If your research determines, for example, that $25k is about right for a full boat Rogue SL AWD in your area then by all means buy it and don't waste a bunch of time on some sort of 'reverse auction' that has no bidders. Just an opinion, of course.
I'm also test driving and comparing vehicles. I'm sure it's not much different here in Wisconsin than it is in Vegas. I've been to probably 6 or 7 dealerships over the past couple of months (Honda, Subaru, Toyota, Ford, Mitsubishi, Saturn, Dodge and Nissan tomorrow) and only at 2 of them did the sales person ask me to meet the sales manager. In both cases we did not go into an office, they came to us and there was no pressure to purchase, they were just trying to establish a rapport so that I knew I had "friends" there. That said, here's what I recommend -
1) Before you go to your Nissan dealer (or any dealer) have clear in mind the specific vehicle and features you want to see and play with on your test drive (SL AWD with or without AWD package, with or without moonroof, gray interior vs black interior, etc)
2) Next, continue to read through these forums to see what kind of situations (good or bad) others have noticed on test drives or after owning the vehicle for awhile. Is rear visibility an issue, is the engine/CVT too noisy, can you parallel park it, etc.
3) Go to the lot, tell the salesperson right away that you are NOT looking to make a purchase today, just merely test driving vehicles for comparison. That let's them know your stance right away and they are much less likely to push the hard sale, usually.
4) When you decide which vehicle you want, get specific internet quotes from several dealers. Actually, the more quotes you can get the better. That way you have a better chance of getting a low price, so when you go to deal, the dealer either meets the internet quote or you leave them and go to the place that offered the lowest quote, though personally I would probably go there first. And take someone with you that will help you not make an expensive mistake.
5) Finally, as mention by nj2gapch in post #210, be mindful of underhanded dealer shenanigans. From my experience, most dealers are reputable and won't try to screw you over but there's always cheats in every line of work. Also, know your credit and get pre-approved for a loan through a bank or credit union before going to negotiate; and get various quotes on gap insurance and extended warranties if you feel you need them. Knowledge is power.
Sorry this is soooo long, hope it helps.
The internet is a wonderful thing to use for car shopping and it should save you some money and a lot of aggravation. Over the years, I personally have found car shopping to be one of the more distasteful things I have to do periodically but not so much on my last purchase of a Rogue SL AWD - for $25.5 (plus taxes) including leather (and about everything else). Getting internet quotes should be simple to do, go to either the MSN or Edmunds auto websites and tell them precisely the Rogue you want, options, color etc and then there will be an option after you specify your car 'to get dealer pricing' - which, of course, you do want to do. The quotes you get will be based on a dealer locations surrounding your zipcode. Alternatively you can do much the same thing from Nissan's own website, or use a search engine to find specific dealer websites that may or may not be close to where you live which might help if you happen to live in an area where the local dealers are needlessly inflating prices. Most dealer websites will alow you to vire inventory etc.
One other suggestion - although it may take a few days to get your quotes, the dealers seem to understand the concept of 'striking while the iron's hot' and it all may go quite quickly. The recommendation is be prepared to buy even to the point of having whatever financing you might need already arranged (NMAC (or your bank) will be happy to take your application on line and preapprove you) - and it doesn't hurt for you to let the dealers know that you are serious (and capable). The dealers don't want to waste their time with folks that aren't probable buyers and really don't want to waste a bunch of time arguing over $50, which was the point of my post that was certainly not directed at you. Have fun!
I would be curious to know what part of the country you are in - sounds like the dealer involved is really trying to take too much advantage of a popular vehicle. And yes anything that is not on the manufacturer sticker should be regarded as highly negotiable. If you area dealers are not prone to drop these bogus charges - it may just pay you to hop on an airplane.
What is the final cost of the vehicle that the dealer was requesting? If it was me I would tell the dealer you can purchase the 3M ScotchGuard yourself at the local Walmart and that nitrogen is not necessary in the tires. Also, when it comes to the car being so demanding/popular tell him you will pay sticker for it then and not deal on it, versus starting at sticker and going up with fees.
They to wanted to charge a $250 dealer fee as I was signing the paper work - I told them that was a "walk-away" for me - and they removed it. The fee probably covers the wash, vacum, gas fillup and assembling the car mats and rear pull out cover.
Car dealers are what they are, you need to be firm, know your price and be willing to walk if it is not what you expect.
I too believe it is not worth haggling over $50-100, but the $250 was not mentioned until the end... and I was not HAPPY about it, and let them know.
The idiot salesman I had ignored anything I told him about already having a price (that I was willing to pay) and insisted instead on visiting his sales manager and presenting me 'his deal' - which turned out to be $27k. At which point I did exactly what you suggest, got up and started to walk out - amazing how fast the paperwork went thru after that - at the $25.5.
Thanks in advance!
Has anyone refused it at the dealership and gone thru their auto insurance co?
I am really interested in getting a Rogue to replace my 93 Mazda Mx-6. It's on it's last legs right now.
I have looked at the invoice price for a Rogue on here and the invoice price doesn't appear to be much lower than the MSRP. Maybe I thought it would be less, considering the deals and prices that I see in the paper. For example, an SL $4k off of MSRP. Are the invoice prices on here correct? I work for a corporation that gets the invoice price plus like $100. If the price that the sales rep is better than the corporate partner price would I be more likely to get the lesser amount?
Anyways my questions are related to other charges when purchasing the car. From the Nissan website when I build it it comes to 24,685. Let's say if that would be my cost before everything else, how much would I be looking at in normal taxes, dealer extra's not including extra accessories, warranties, etc.
I'm planning on test driving it not this weekend but the next with thoughts of buying in a few months when I have some more money to put down. Maybe if I'm lucky and the same sales numbers are in for Nissan as they were for Ford, GMC, ect I might have the upper hand to walk out with one that day?
Sorry for all the questions, I haven't bought a car since 1996.
I suggest you do some research before picking on people in the future. If you read Marco's profile you will see that he is legally blind. That would suggest why his spelling is not the best.
A test drive is obviously a good idea but won't likely help you much in terms of figuring out how much the car should cost - the salesperson more likely to BS a higher price just in case your willing to pay it. ALWAYS ALWAYS do your research first - I think the car dealers would really prefer you didn't - for a reason!
If you are still a few months away, however from actually pulling the trigger, you might want to wait on getting the quotes etc. - things (and prices) have a tendency to changes month to month. Down here in Texas it seems to be quite possible to buy a Rogue at very close to 'invoice' with minimal dealer profiteering - some other parts of the country the prices seem to be higher.
My other question about what is the invoice price? Is it what Edmunds has listed or lower?
Also what percentage should I expect to be added on for taxes and other fees before I drive any car off the lot?
HOWEVER, don't be too concerned with what that ficticious 'invoice' price is - on some vehicles, especially these days, many vehicles sell for well less than 'invoice' (20-25% off or more) and a few other more popular (and more economical) ones sell for some price closer to window sticker. Kinda depends on what it is you want and how that particular vehicles sells in you area. The only way you know what that 'good' price is is to ask - the more you ask the more likely you are to get a better answer. Your price is what it is, 'invoice' price doesn't matter in any case.
Another important thing to remember is that buying something just because you get a better upfront discount on it will almost always also stick you with something that has less value later and the opposite is also true. As hard as it might be to understand, the cheapest car to buy may not be the cheapest to own. There is a reason why things like Accords and Camrys have higher resale values than correspondent 'American' car choices - they cost more to buy, are not usually discounted much and magically are also relatively inexpensive to own. I am guessing that the Rogue ends up in this kind of category.
Tony
SL AWD
Premium package
Leather package
Moon roof package
Splash guards
Moon roof deflector
Floor mats
MSRP $28,110.00, Residual amount $14,617.20
15k miles a year
39 months
I only put $410 down
My payments are $410 a month
Is this a good deal.
Did see that nice blue color and it the bright sun it was awesome looking. Starting to like the Rogue better than the CR-V now and if I had a need for a small ute, I'd seriously consider it.
And Marco, I do understand your passion for cars...had it since I was a small child. So keep on posting in Edmunds and don't listen to the few that ridicule you...they aren't worth it...just ignore them as most of the other posters do!
The Sandman
There is a $500 Nissan rebate until the end of the month. Accounting for this rebate, we paid a final price of $22865 + TTL = $24527 out the door. We did not trade anything in. This was in Houston.
I could have countered with a lower bid, and on talking to the manager, I sensed that there was room to go a little below, but I was generally comfortable with the numbers first quoted, and so pulled the trigger.
This purchase was easy and simple -- no numbers changed or no pressure to add accessories when I went to pick up the car. I am figuring that the dealership here are quite motivated to sell because: (i) this is end of month, (ii) this is close to end of the model year (2009 Rogues should be coming out soon), and (iii) not as many buyers on the market, and they want to hit some sales quota to help with future allotments from Nissan.