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Is there really a difference between -22F and -40F?
Likes:
Visibility - windows like a greenhouse, plus the mirrors are great
Ride - quite nice for a small car
Backseat - seems much larger and more comfortable than other small cars
Looks - To each his own: I LIKE the look
Mostly - It's a Subaru!!!
Dislikes (I use this term loosely, because it's hard to hate anything with me being a Subaru fan):
Radio - stock radio/speakers are horrible! My '99 Forester had better speakers at 13 yrs old....
GPM - dissapointed to only get 31-32 MPG on highway at 65MPH on cruise....better than my Forester, but not even close to the 36 EPA. I understand this should increase with more miles on it.
Space - knowing this was going to be smaller than my Forester, I didn't really think about it until I put my golf clubs in the back and they wouldn't fit.....without putting the seat down. I'm going to miss that space....
Question on the MPGs. Was it windy, hilly, AC, or extra weight?
I just made my first long trip on an interstate (65 to 70mph). Roughly 50% cruise and 50% without. I got 32.7mpg over 400 miles. I typically get around 35mpg. For my trip it was a lttle more up and down, I had about 500 extra pounds of passengers and gear and the AC was on the entire time. So the weight and AC make a difference. Not sure if the hills made much difference since the MPG on the way there and on the way home seemd the same with the displayshowing in the 34.5 mpg area most of the time.
I was happy with the room! 500 mile round trip with wife and 3 kids plus 5 duffle bags 3 sleeping bags, some pillows, small cooler and few odds-n-ends. Cargo didn't come above the seat backs so visibility was great. I think I could have made the entire 500 miles on one tank. It would have been close. Since we had to make a stop I filled up before the end. Kids rotated seating positions, and all thought the center position was better than any other car we have or ridden in. (But still worse than either side or the front seat.)
I bought a sedan but tried my clubs in the back of hatch and mine did not fit either. I had to take the driver out of the bag and then everything fit.
Dead and deader.
LOL!
It is a new, and probably longer, driver that I can't fit in...while it's in the bag. I'll take it out and the bag, and driver, should fit.
No wind, but low rolling hills in Northern Illinois. AC was on with two passengers. I'm sure GPM will get better once engine is 'burned' in.....
The "miles left in tank" said 60 miles when I refilled. But I was quite nervous when the low fuel light came on and the last black bar disappeared. Apparently, I had 0.7 gallons left...
John/Fresno
apparently the miles left isn't all that accurate and it's a good thing to note since 0.7gal isn't going to give you 60 miles unless you start rolling downhill the whole way
i rarely run my car down that low, but i'll be cautious if and when i do!
ps. have you checked the accuracy of your Odometer. i'm 99% convinced mine is roughly 3% off and underreports the distance traveled. (based primarily on google maps distance comparisons)
John
I got stuck with little left in the tank, expensive gas area, and the next fill area 20 miles down the road. So I pushed it a lot more than I normally would.
John
I ordered mine 4/9..hoping it will be here in July but I'm doubtful since I ordered the 5 door with nav. My dealer guaranteed me that my trade-in value would hold no matter when the car is delivered but I wanted to renegotiate the price since by the time it gets here it will be a 2012 leftover. I started with SOA who sent me to the dealer who tried to send me back to SOA. I suggested that the sales manager should make that call, which he did. SOA e-mailed me with an offer of 2 year's free maintenance OR $250 credit toward dealer-installed option. No go on the price reduction. I asked for the extended warranty instead....no deal.
i've taken trips on the same route over years with different cars to know that this car is reporting less than those cars (two different hondas and one toyota), so i know google maps isn't giving me a poor indicator.
anyway, in the end, i guess it's a good thing if i ever sell the car (i keep cars a long time) and also helps cancel out part of the fuel economy the computer is spitting out. (about 5% too optimistic)
It's tough to get a car at a reasonable price in the land of the midnight sun. The last two new Subaru vehicles I purchased came from Seattle at about $2,500 savings (after driving them home) versus buying locally. Around here, the dealers want you to buy their cars, they don't want to sell them to you.
Dealer here in MN can only keep the base model sedans with manual trans on the lot for more than a week. Personally I'd take the 2 years maintenance. Synthetic oil changes are about $80 and you might do 6 in the 2 years depending on how many miles you drive.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
My husband picks up new car this month a few days before his bday and I'd like to get him an aftermarket, in-dash stereo with satellite -- that will still allow him to use the steering wheel controls (he will be getting the premium, stick, hatch (can't believe no satellite).
I have no experience in this. I looked at Crutchfield.com, after finding it referenced on another post. But Crutchfield offers only a couple of options and neither is designed to fit 12 Impreza. Has anyone found a receiver they can recommend?
And/or, does anyone know a trustworthy car audio place in Greater Cleveland?
Finally, I'd like to get him a leather steering wheel cover, too -- any advice on that appreciated as well. Generic one-size-fits-all...or are there custom Impreza covers.
FYI: We've been a VW family until this year....replaced oldest car with a Mazda CX-5 a couple of months ago (love it) and then our 2001 VW that was supposed to last us a couple more years blew its engine last week....and we found ourselves drawn to the Impreza -- our first Subaru. Fingers crossed.
Thanks for help. Edmunds' forums are so full of good info...
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2312813&page=1
Where is the best place to get the often discussed Tokyo Roki filters with 15208AA160?
Thanks
Yowza on the torque specs, 89 ft-lbs! That would put a worp in my '03 Forester rotors within 10 miles.
Maybe going to look into the free rotations at a tire shop. It is about an hour of work to do it myself.
however, one thing you can do is drive onto 2x6s (or 2x8 or 2x10s if you wish) to buy an extra 1.625" of clearance. that is in fact enough clearance for me to forgo using a jack entirely to change the oil.
floor jack
I replaced the thin rubber pad that came in the jack's saddle with a hockey puck, which provides more lift and cushioning.
I also replaced my drain plug with a Fumoto valve, so that I can drain the oil without a wrench, and so that I can connect a rubber tube for directing the oil without making a mess:
Fumoto valve
Hope this helps.
When I do tire rotations, I like to have all four tires in the air at the same time. I am able to accomplish this with two lifts of my floor jack (one at the front lift point under the engine, and one at the rear lift point at the rear differential). I'm guessing you would need to do four lifts with your scissors jacks.
But it's more than just speed. There's also a safety factor. Many people use scissors jacks as a last resort, emergency only solution. A floor jack with jack stands is both faster and safer.
it sounds like once already owns a floor jack. related to my post above: how much extra clearance do you need? finding a few scraps of wood to drive onto might give you enough clearance so you don't have to buy anything new, and worry about the safety and time issues raised by sgold.
Unfortunately, floor jacks generally don't prefer a gravel driveway, but I've made it work a few times.
I have used a floor jack and 4 x 4 in the center of the side and lifted both wheels of the Forester. That works pretty good, but the Forester isn't mostly plastic underneath like the Impreza.
I would assume they are using jack stands (but then you don't really need 2 floor jacks).
The primary problem with a floor jack on such a surface is that the jack must be able to roll in order to counter-act the levering effect of the hydraulic arm. Once the vehicle's weight begins to bear down on the jack, its ability to roll is compromised. Unless the vehicle is allowed to roll, that can be problematic. For example, you can literally pull a vehicle off a jack stand this way.
That said, I do prefer to use floor jacks whenever possible simply due to the speed... but that doesn't mean I'm going to "trust" them more than other jacking methods.
Then I jack up the rear of the car from the rear-center lift point (the rear diff), and then set the rear down on two more jack stands that are positioned under the rear pinch welds at the edge of the body. At this point, all four wheels are airborn.
To lower the car again, I first lower the rear of the car, then I lower the front of the car.