2012 Subaru Impreza

sgoldste01

It's normal, and I wouldn't worry about it. You get your best MPGs when the engine is warm, and it warms faster when you're actually driving the car. When temps are over 20 degrees F, I pretty much start the engine, let it idle while I buckle my seat belt and select my radio station, and then I drive. If temps are below 20, I might give the engine an extra 30 sec to warm up, just to make sure the oil is flowing well, although the thin 0W20 oil in these engines probably makes this unnecessary.

flopka

Hi, 2012 Impreza Premium here. Yes, the rev appears to be normal. It seems to be a characteristic more of new cars, as the rev becomes less dramatic over time. I was disturbed by it but didn't talk to my dealer as it was fairly predictable.

There's no need to allow the RPM to "normalize" before switching into gear. As soon as you go into gear, the engine drops to its normal idling RPM or slightly above. Don't speed off on a stone cold engine, but that's just common sense.

xwesx

Many (perhaps all) newer cars rev the engine more to get to operating temp faster (reduces emissions), along with other tweaks in air/fuel ratio. In colder regions, normal engine idle speed might be 1000-1500 RPM rather than the more typical 600, simply because ambient air temperatures are cold enough to require the engine to operate at that speed in order to maintain temperature.

My Fiesta generally runs at about 1300 RPM on days like today (-20F) even after 15-20 minutes of use, but I'm okay with that because I can sit in a warm (room temp) interior rather than one that is closer to 30F like my old car. Selfish, I know, but it still nets me over 30 mpg.

typesix

Engine rpm is determined by coolant temperature, not air temperature.

ateixeira

True, but when you start it up those are about the same, no? If the car's been sitting outside, certainly.

xwesx

Not sure what you mean there. I never said otherwise, did I?

imprezabf

Hi my girlfriend's impreza has been doing the same exact thing on numerous occasions. She also had issues with the air bag weight sensor. She actually has the dealer looking into it this week, but they looked at her as if she had two heads when she was explaining it.

sgoldste01

You and your girlfriend should read this:

NASIOC airbag sensor thread

mslamanna

Hi, can you tell me anything about your experience with them installing cruise control? Have they done it yet? Was it an oem cruise control or after market?
Thanks

fredjohnson

The last time I had non OEM cruise installed in a car I regretted it. Buy the car with it in there.

steine13

I don't know that it's going to be a problem... were it my car, I'd want some testimonials from others who have installed cruise on their car.

I hear what you're saying, but now the game has changed a lot with drive-by-wire. No hinky mechanicals to worry about, and I don't see for the life of me why the dealer couldn't do it for $50 and charge $250.

Some of us don't want tinted windows and are happy with steel wheels to use for our winter rubber...

Cheers -Mathias

ljb65

We have a 2012 Subaru Impreza that we purchased on May 27th, 2012. The car has 8500 miles on it and the tires are shot. We took the car to the dealership a few days ago (12-26-12) and the dealer agreed that the tires were very worn and didn't wear well, however, they couldn't warranty them because they are not a Subaru product. I'm pretty disappointed. I've never been a fan of Yokohama and will never purchase another set of them again. Do yourself a favor and get another tire put on your car before purchasing a car with these Yokohama tires on it.

ljb65

We have a 2012 Subaru Impreza that we purchased on May 27th, 2012. The car has 8500 miles on it and the tires are shot. We took the car to the dealership a few days ago (12-26-12) and the dealer agreed that the tires were very worn and didn't wear well, however, they couldn't warranty them because they are not a Subaru product. I'm pretty disappointed. I've never been a fan of Yokohama and will never purchase them or a car that has Yokohama on it. Do yourself a favor and get another tire put on your car before purchasing a car with Yokohama tires on it.

sgoldste01

That's too bad. I have nearly as many miles on my Yoko Avids as you, and they're wearing quite nicely. But I do check my tire pressure very regularly, and am not an aggressive driver.

dcm61

'12 Sport Limited purchased 5/8/12. 9900 miles and my S34D are wearing normally. I keep TP ~31 F and ~29 R. Seem to be wearing well.

BTW, they are way overdue for the 1st rotation. :surprise:

sgoldste01

I inflate my tires 3 pounds harder than listed on the tire inflation sticker because I like a firm ride. So I use 35 front/33 rear.

ateixeira

I wonder if the alignment was off or something? Have it checked when you mount the new tires. If it was off see if they'll partially reimburse you.

oxmead

When the time comes to replace these on my sport limited will I be able to get a tire with a bit higher sidewall , say a 55, or will it screw up the computers?

dcm61

When the time comes to replace these on my sport limited will I be able to get a tire with a bit higher sidewall , say a 55, or will it screw up the computers?

195/55-17 would be close in diameter, but is a narrower tire with minimal gain in sidewall height. 205/55-17 may be OK, if it fits.

You need to drop to a 16" wheel to gain meaningful sidewall height without changing the overall diameter.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

ateixeira

The rule is thumb is +/- 3% is ok. That's not much.

That calculator is very useful.

ladylily

Hi,
My gas gauge quit working 4000 miles ago and my mpg dropped by 7 miles. I took it in for service and they cleaned the sensor. the gas gauge worked again but my mpg is still 27 average. should be 33. Upset and now my gas gauge quit working again. Help!!! I am calling service in the morning. They argued with me about the gas mileage. Don't want to go back:(

ateixeira

Are you in a cold climate? MPG could be lower temporarily if the temps are really cold.

I used a spreadsheet to track my average and winter MPG was 2 lower than even the summer when I crank the AC.

fredjohnson

@ljp65, the Avid tires on my '12 Impreza have already cupped. Started around 10k miles. Thumping noise going down the road. I take excellent care of the tires, by the way. As the cupping becomes worse I will try to hold on them to about 20k and then get something else. My last 4 new cars(honda's, subarus) have all done this---but the tires were Bridgstone, Continental and now Yokohama. I wrote it off to cheap, soft tread ordered by the carmakers to keep the ride soft. But this shortens the tire life.

fredjohnson

@ladylily, I'm getting about 27 mpg here in Mpls, mostly highway driving with some stop and go. It's a drastic reduction from summertime mileage when I was getting 35% better mileage. Cold weather----and I mean constant temps below 20 degrees day and night really ruins gas mileage. This car engine/tranny takes a long time to warm up and is very inefficient until it does.

dodman1

Ditto concerning cold weather gas mileage with the Impreza. My 2012 Limited Sedan dropped from 33 to 35 MPG during the summer to 26 to 28 since the temps dropped. I live in NE PA and temps have been pretty low for the last month. The worst mileage I experience was during a week with highs in the low teens and lows near zero. Definitely a huge hit tied to temps.

iliketoshift

In other cars I've owned and tracked gas mileage for, I've found that every 10 degree change in temperature corresponds to about 1 degree change in MPG. So between 30 degrees and 80 degrees you might get as much as 5 more MPG for the same driving.

revmom1

Wondering if you ever solved your vibration issue? Picked up brand new Impreza on Monday and back at dealership Friday of the same week with a vibration issue. After waiting 3 hours for them to "balance" the wheels, I was told they balanced, then force balanced...ended up with 4 tires off another new Impreza but now I am paranoid and feel like I still have the vibration! It is not consistent but also does not seem to correlate to road surface.

iliketoshift

My oil light came on last night (and then turned off in 5 minutes). When I checked the dipstick it was at 1/4" - not too close to the first hole.

I'm not terribly worried because I was planning my oil change for march because I'm at ~7200 miles since the last oil change.

However, for me this is a warning to change oil @ 7000 miles, not 7500.

once_for_all

I just add oil when needed...hope you aren't assuming it's supposed to go 7500 miles between additions?

once_for_all

I just went to a Subaru dealer near work to get my first oil change yesterday- I get home and check the oil level - ONE INCH OVER full - if thats not bad enough, I look at the oil filter - didn't look like original. I went to the dealer this morning and he takes the car in right away - Works on it and states oil level has been corrected apologizes and shows me a Subaru Bulletin PB001133 that "HE" states says the two filter numbers are interchangeable - I look at it and say,YES, for the 2.5 Subaru Forester BUT the next paragraph states for 2012 Impreza you MUST USE part 15208AA160 or it wont function correctly - THATS SUBARU's words not mine. The dealer had put on part 15208AA130 which can ONLY be switched on the Forester NOT the IMPREZA.

Make sure, since its easy to see, that your oil filter is part 15208AA160 ( as listed in the manual)

I'm revisting this question. I bought several of the PN...160 oil filters listed here, and they do not seem to be a check valve type oil filter. I've changed the oil 3 times, and the last 2 times I've noticed no oil come out of the filter upon removal. The small bowl below the filter remains dry.

So, I'm wondering about whether this filter number is making for dry engine start ups. Anyone look further into this?

John

dcm61

I bought several of the PN...160 oil filters listed here, and they do not seem to be a check valve type oil filter. I've changed the oil 3 times, and the last 2 times I've noticed no oil come out of the filter upon removal.

A properly working check valve will prevent oil from draining out.

xwesx

Wouldn't the lack of oil draining imply that is DOES have a check valve?

In other words, it isn't draining when you remove it because the oil is being retained within the filter. The other option is that the oil has fully drained back down into the pan.

I certainly hope the second option isn't the case! :P

once_for_all

The big hole in the center is empty, and there is mesh and filter all around. Any oil on the outside would simply move back through the filter and drain out the center hole.

What I'm saying is, I don't believe there is a check valve on this filter. It looks to be a standard filter. And given it's location, that's the wrong type of filter.

John

xwesx

Second option. :sick:

littlebang556

The same rattle has been annoying me intermittently and I too am satisfied that the issue remains with the A-Pillar trim...Initial thought was also with the speaker covers...
It seems something that could be fixed with the addition of an appropriate clip during the manufacture process and am interested how it will be addressed when I return for my 1st service...

Just out of interest though...My dash was partly dismantled for the fitment of a factory alarm at the dealership before I took possession of the vehicle and could not be certain the issue was caused then???

dfong87

i solved it by stuffing material (one side, a felt disk, the other side, a folded up piece of cardboard). was a little ugly (but only noticeable if you looked carefully), but worked.

when i went into service, i pointed it out to the tech who ended up sticking tons of foam tape inside A-pillar (at least that was he told me) to keep it from moving. i'm not exactly sure how that was done, but it did work and of course, it was prettier than what i had done.