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The ABS control module seems to be a known problem area. I pulled the ABS sensors and cleaned them to no avail. This model has the ABS module mounted under the ABS pump, not on the firewall. I've been able to get the top two screws out in order to replace it, but can't get at the bottom two. Any hints from some who have replaced it successfully? Is the module repairable, or only replaceable?
As you probably know to remove the ABS Module you will need a E5 Torx Wrench Socket (This is the female version of a standard Torx wrench). If you do not have one it should be easy enough to get from you local machine tool supply.
The module IS reparable. Go to Vic Rocha’s site. I have used his service and highly recommend him. In addition to having a better than stock module, the cost is less than 1/3 of a new unit. His web site is:
http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/
As for hints to replace the unit. Make sure you have the right tool. I used a ¼” drive. Fit the socket onto the screw, and then put the drive on. Do Not over-tighten the screws when replacing. As for more detail, Vic’s site has excellent instructions.
Good Luck
Regards.....Irish
How difficult or expensive is it to replace the rear seal on the engine? I have an oil leak. The last question is about the transmission. How many miles will I get from the auto tranny? I still get 25MPG.
(he uses Mobil 1 synthetic and periodically treats the engine with Slick 50). I've ridden in it recently and it is still going strong. I don't think he had the rear seal replaced yet, but I'll ask him anyway.
He gets around 28 mpg on the highway, and around 22-25 around town.
I am interested in purchasing a '95 Volvo Turbo Wagon that has 114K miles on it. I drove, and it seems to drive fine, no noises, very firm solid driving car. I enjoyed it from the start. Guy wants $6500, probably can get down to $5500-6000. The mileage is obviously my concern, but I think it has a bunch more miles in it. What do you guys think? Any serious concerns? I would be purchasing it from a private seller, and will be taking it to my mechanic prior to purchasing it. Let me know what you think. Thanks
If the car was well maintained then it has alot of miles left in it.
If memory serves the timing belt interval on those cars was every 60k, so have your mechanic check it out.
overall the 940's were pretty bulletproof.
We had a similar experience with Toyota Supra Turbo...mechanic said it would need to be replaced ($3000) and another mechanic said in all the years he had worked on them he had never had to replace one. We ended up with the second mechanic, did not replace the turbo and the car lasted another year before we sold it for a more family-friendly (read 2 car seats) vehicle.
The only issue w/ the turbo's are the oil return seals. These tend to crack as they age and oil seeps from the turbo and drips on your garage floor.
No big deal, replace the seals.
kcram
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The 850's turbo is water cooled. If the 850 in questions turbo is that far gone I'd pass on the whole car.
The S70, old V70, C70 retained the old style filters.
The owner can't produce service records, and it needs tires and brakes badly...that points to a poorly maintained car, which means I'm willing to bet that the timing belt's never been replaced. In these cars, a timing belt failure means catastrophic engine failure (the cost of which would exceed the purchase price of the car.)
850s can be great cars...if they've been maintaned. There's certainly no shortage of 850s out there, so wait and find a good one that you won't immediately have to sink money into.
I say look elsewhere in this case, but a properly maintaned 850 can be a great car for not a lot of money.
Good luck.
Gets rid of the dust that accumulates.
Cost of the pads then becomes an issue.
Also, how well do the pads perform?
Volvo brake rotors are thinner than most, if the brake pads don't disipate heat effectively they will warp the rotors.
YOu should be able to get one through your dealerships parts dept.
Does anyone out there use regular gas in their 1996-1997? Any problems?
After reading as much as I can find on problems and repair costs for this car, I'm not so sure I've made the correct choice.
Would appreciate all advice!
Is the any experiences out there that sound like mine? Could it be the fuel (93octane) or a sending unit perhaps? I am stuck.
You can use lesser fuel, but you will get less performance and worse mileage.
Its up to you.
Its a 1995 850 MT Base Model. I bought in Florda, and on way north to Minnesota, this past week as the outside temps are only aound 30-50 in the early am hours it will not start. But when I break for lunch during school around Noon-1pm its 60+ outside it will start. But if its Raining or below 60 or so it will crank and fire then die right away.
I bought it to the Volvo Dealership, when the check engine light came on and, Payed 375.90 to run the codes and do a tune up. The check engine light has gone out after that, then at 3:30 am when I leave for school the next day no start, and the check engine light came back on, back to square one.
Thank goodness I live only 70 miles from a Huge Volvo Salvage yard, so I have replaced the following hoping to cure the problem: New OEM Cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, battery, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Cam Postion Sensor, RPM Sensor, ECU. I'm about broke with the parts and the many trips to differnt repair shops.
I need help with the Car! Like I said it will not start in the am around the time I go to school, but when I come home for lunch at noon or so and it 60+ outside cranks ups great and loves to be driven.
Could it be the Fuel Pump or Filter?
This is a safe and reliable vehicle. I wish there were a better indicator of a failing fuel pump but overall this car is worth every penny (I mean dollar) I dump into it. Keep the faith.
thanks
I have the exact same problem. After much searching, I believe the culprit is a faulty ignition swtich. Apparently the contacts wear out, and when it does it prevents the items that you have listed from functioning. The good news is that your ABS module has not given out (yet), and the fix is relatively affordable. A quick search shows a new ignition switch could be purchased for under $100 and the install seems pretty simple.
Good luck!
Vincent
I've been lurking on this forum for a couple of days b/c I am considering getting an 850 Turbo. I'm going to take a look at a '96 wagon with 100K on Friday.
I know about the ABS module issue, the reports of tranny problems, and fluid leaks.
Are there any signs and symptoms I should look for to diagnose these problems? the car is being sold by a reputable used car dealer, with a clean CarFax report (3 owners), and is cosmetically is very good shape.
I obviously like these cars and can afford to put $1-2K into repairs, but would prefer to avoid that. Also, I will only need this car to get me through the next 18 months / 15K miles or so before I move out of state and likely have to sell it.
Cheers.
Any advice is appreciated.
MIKE
The most costly (@ $1500) and most mandatory fix is the replacement of the turbo. She says it burns oil and that a shop said she needed a new turbo. Does this sound right?
Other issues are: sunroof "issues", rear hatch struts, controls on electric seats, radio, cv boot.
I am willing to put this amount of cash into this car as it only has @ 130k on the clock and is in otherwise decent condition.
Any comments are welcome. Is this a http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons- /emo_lemon.gif
lemon???
Thanks!!!
Roger
Sorry, but ANY car w/ 130k cannot be a lemon. that term refers to new cars that develop issues that cannot be resolved.
Hatch struts and cv boots are wear items.
Personally, I'd pass on the car. Cooking a turbo on an 850 takes work, most of the time it stems from not changing the oil often enough or racing the engine and not letting the turbo cool.
JO