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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout
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http://www.xpel.com/
-David
-David
-David
I'm actually releaved since the cost of gas has gone sky high and still climbing. Two trips to Canada towing a 28' travel trailer with the truck getting 8 to 10 mpg.........well do the math and ya get the picture.
Maybe I need to buy a farm and plant soy for conversion to bio-deisel, then I can get a new truck with the Duramax and make my own fuel.................. :P
the annual plowhead BBQ in Poughkeepsie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had a guy coming over to buy my 97 Tacoma on Friday, and didnt show. It was paid for, so I didnt need to worry about the negative equity. I planned on getting the 2500 on Saturday, with 35k from the C.U.and the other 7k from the proceeds of the yota. I just put the 7k on the ole credit card, and floated it there until this past Monday when I finally sold it. It took exactly 10 days to sell it. So no finance carges. Damn near everyone gets credit card offers for 0% for???? Put it on one of those, and really save some money by paying it off in 30 days. My advice was that if you have finally found the exact vehicle you want, and in my case there was only 1 GM (Chevy or GMC) like it in 7 states, go get it. Find a way. Hell, I left Tallahassee @ 4:15am and drove to Sarasota FL in the middle of Hurricane Dennis to get mine. No regrets.
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So far ive checked for trouble codes and there are none, ive checked the TPS, MAP, MAF, and the AIC sensors just to make sure they where getting the right voltage i even did a back probe while the truck was running. My spark plug wires are new and i pulled my spark plugs and they look good however they do have a slight wet appearance but just barely. ( they dont look like the engine is flooded ) Ive changed the distributor cap and rotor button , the fuel filter, ignition coil, and the TPS ( even though it didnt give me a trouble code it seemed a likely suspect ) Ive also checked the pcv valve, and the air filter all have checked good. Ive even removed the fuel filter and placed an inline gauge to see if the fuel pump was putting out enough pressure and it checked good but still if i give the truck any gas or stomp the pedal the truck just acts like i cut off its fuel or fire supply and it dies. From what i understand the ignition timing is not adjustable , is this correct? I looked at the distributor and all i see is one tie down bolt and i noticed you can rotate the distributor cap housing is it supposed to be that way? ( ive been told it is and the computer adjusts the timing ) Anybody have any idea what this could be causing this?
This is a good site for help on cleaning MAF: http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/cleanmaf.htm
Also is there any fuel leaks coming from around the sending unit?
Hope you find the problem.
Good luck.
Your symptoms are pointing to a dirty MAF. get a good can of carb cleaner, thats all you need to use to clean it as it is alcohol based and evaporates very fast.
On a side note something i read on the site i was reffered to on how to clean the sensor got me to thinking about something. My truck has 198K on its odometer but the engine and injection system where completely replaced 20k ago ( original engone was a 305 now its a 350 ). Prior to me purchasing it a freind of mine had all this work done , he also had the transmission rebuilt 3 times, thats how i got the truck. The fourth time the tranny went out he parked the truck in the yard he said he wasnt sinking another dime into the truck and he went out and bought a brand new ford F250. This buddy of mine hauls scrap metal and every bpdy who knew him always assumed the tranny going out was due to him over loading the truck then slapping a trailer behind it , but maybe not, the site that tells how to clean out the MAF sensor mentions how if the Maf sensor is reading wrong it can tear up a transmission since the computer doesnt know when to shift, i wonder if thats the case.
needless to say I bought the truck with the tranny messed up and i had it fixed after my buddy gave up on it.
Can you drive the truck fine while the engine is cold or does it sputter still?
I wouldn't take it to a shop yet. We'll figure this problem out.
I have shopped everywhere, including the dealership. Some of the ones I am finding are close, but no cigar. Putco makes one, but the area inside of the "C" in GMC is solid chrome, instead of black like the Denali. I would like it to look clean, and not a cheesy knock off. Anyone replaced theirs yet? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Stone G
grounds in the southern tier NY for a snowplow meet and greet in Aug.
at the local Hooters...................
The happy snow will be here soon enough !
Hows the Avalanche treating ya?.....................................
-David
I don't know how your ignition system works, but every gasoline engine must have a method for advancing the spark upon an increase in RPM, whether it be electronic, centrifugal, or as in the old days, vacuum. I could make some suggestions, but being completely in the dark about which method seems like a waste of time.
BTW; I know of a similar case, but not exactly, where the TPS turned out to be faulty. Hope this helps.
-David
Very well, just procrastinating about a new one. I want one more new vehicle before I try ro retire, but don't like all the "de-contenting" that's gone in since '03. Or for that matter the extras that I don't want that are now std. Looks like I'll probably have at least another month of Employee pricing (rumor has it) to decide .
thanks
that will help prevent the sticking. Our 5.3 V8 in our 2000 Tahoe was fixed
a year or so ago.
Ray T.
thanks
Thank You
Bobby in Indiana
Then can tell you where to find those RPO lists.............
Don't print it here on the open forum or the spambots might find it !
engines by GM.
How it affects warranty depends on the service manager you deal with. Best to ask him as the answers will vary. Regardless what K&N and Moss Magnuson Act says about aftermarket accessories.....it all comes down to whether the dealership you're working with agrees to it. I would hate to have to go thru a lawsuit to prove a point about an aftermarket air filter.
K&N is a JOKE - as are all the after market air filter crap that is sold.
The adds claim UP TO 500 additional HP & 65 more miles per gallon - (or whatever)
I have seen guys dyno their cars/trucks - then add a K&N then redo the dyno - NO DIFFERENCE in HP or Torque.
The only thing they do is REDUCE THE WEIGHT (of your wallet)
But wait - they also give your engine a cool sucking sound when you step on the gas. I really think some guys HEAR that sound and really think that they are going faster.
K&N flows more air. Air that has been filtered thru cotton gauze and oil. It's that oil that makes things a little messy if you apply too much after washing the filter. Course the downside is that if you don't apply enough oil, you will be allowing additional contaminants into your system. Since K&N has no specific amount of oil to add to the filter nor a way to consistently apply it. I'd say you would be taking a risk of having too much or too little and both with consequences.
I can't really say I gained anything with my Borla Cat-Back system either but it sure made the truck sound healthier than that stock exhaust.
Ray T. :shades: