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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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I'll dig around through that circuit now. Might have to get actual shop manuals vs. the Haynes one I've been using.
Thanks for the information.
try this ...
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
$15 a year per car and they have all the recalls, TSB, Diagrams, etc for the vehicle. Not as good as the GM shop manuals as far as full info is concerned - but has the TSB, etc ... Cheaper than the manuals and does have some good stuff. For example a demo below ...
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EG%7EOD%7EC8000%7EN/0
Please, If you find the help here Bad or good - please post the troubleshooting results. We ALL benefit from the knowledge. Even being wrong is OK if you learn from it.... Knowing what the actual problem WAS is even better .....
s-10. It quit on her and has no power to the fuel pump. The oil was very low and I think the
oil pressure switch is the culpret but I can not find where it is or how to re-set it. Have you had any luck yet? Thanks.
dngdud
If the pump runs, check fuse #9, 20A, and battery voltage at pump relay orange wire.
If the pump doesn't run, first check the pump ground connection, black wire. If ok, check for an open circuit in the grey wire from the relay to the pump.
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
The second wire/circuit went from the battery to the "Start" switch contact and directly to the coil (full 24 volts - for STARTING ONLY ). Once the engine started and you released the key from the start to run position the OTHER wire/circuit ((through the ballast resistor) takes over....
In your case it sounds like the coil is getting juice ONLY when the key is in start position and NOT when it is release to the run position ....At least check ALL contacts/connectors. Then get a meter and schematic and ensure that the 12V is getting through to the coil both whne the key switch is in the start and the ON posiiton. Otherwise, if it's a sealed unit - you may need to swap the Electronics out ....
Plese let us know what it was when you fix it !!
Good Luck
Canufixit ...
On some cars there were no Ballast resistors - instead the "wire itself" is the resistor ... If I remember correctly on the old "Points " style ignition - for Chryslers/Mopars they used the ballast resistor and GM usually just used a resistive wire in the "run" circuits ... but this my not be ture for all makes/models ...
Good Luck!!
It doesn't. GM used resistor wire, but only with point ignition systems to reduce coil temp and point arcing.
full 24 volts - for STARTING ONLY
That's 12 volts, not 24.
About a week ago after driving for about an hour I stopped somewhere, and when I went to start the truck it wouldn't start. The started didn't roll over, there was no clicking (such as a dead battery) and all of my accessories work fine. I left it there with intentions to tow it a few days later when I had the money. But when I was waiting for my friend to tow it, I tried to start it, and it started right up, no problems.
Another instance it did the same thing after a pit stop, no start. I waited about 5-10 minutes, and it started right up. This last time however, it just hasn't wanted to start back up again. I'm stumped, and have no idea where to even start. Any ideas?
LOL, Thanks,
Ty :confuse:
Problems
p/steering pump
Wiper motor
Chirping noise from the clutch throw out bearing from day one.
New 29mpg highway after 150k not as good mpg
Serp belt making noises
Solid runner
The s-10 is not the reason won’t buy chevy it’s the Monte the GM/dealership can not fix it’s problems clunk feel in the steering column took it in the btards charged me for lubing the intermediate shaft which should never go bad. Faulty engineering on GM part. Poor dealer service. Same thing after 3k they replaced it and at 5k same problem. If GM supports and stands by there product I would have a different perception of them they don’t thus No more
My second question is if i get the 1.5'' leaf springs what size block should i get to even out my truck considering i want a 3'' coil spring. I think a 3'' block on the back and with the lowering leaf springs it would slam that front end but i don't know a whole lot about suspension. But some one out there could guide me i would apprechate it.
thank you
david
Thanks
Rich
Was the grinding noise behind the dash intermittent? We have that too but our dealer couldn't reproduce it because it only does it occasionally.
Problem #1 Just recently the power driver side window goes down just fine but has an extremely difficult time closing. Sometimes you press the button to close it and nothing happens. Other times it goes up very slow. Any suggestions?
Problem # 2 The truck was in 4 wheel drive low then begin making an awful grinding noise. The only thing that would make it stop grinding was turning the car off. Then when it was restarted the truck won't even attempt to put it in 4W high or low.
And just for kicks the handle to the 3rd door broke on us last weekend when we were moving. Couple this with air controller hissing problem in which the dealer replaces the vacuum lines twice. This makes me never want to buy another chevy again, especially when we have a 95 Nissan 240SX with 220,000 miles on it and the only thing we've had to do on it other than maintainence is change the starter.
2 days ago: it would not start - again. We replaced the module a second time thinking something electrical was shorting them out. Still wouldn't start.
Yesterday: Had it towed to the garage. Still wouldn't start.
Today: Once they started to hook it up to the scope, it started and has been running every since.
Your problem sounds very similar to what we are going through with ours.
Have you discovered what the problem is yet?
We don't know whether to start with the electrical or the fuel system. :sick:
Not sure if this helps .... but ...
I think there is as procedure in your manual to manually dis-engage from 4 low to hi gear ... Perhaps if you try that - it will get you into 4/2 hi for now ...
Also, there is a TSB on the 3rd door handle ... below ...
Door (Third) - Hard to Open/Handle Breakage
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 02-08-64-007
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Third Door Hard to Open and/or Handle Breakage
(Adjust Lock Rods)
Models:
1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Extended Cab Pickup Models (S-10, Sonoma)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the third door is hard to open and/or the door handle may be broken.
Cause
The lock rods may be improperly adjusted.
Correction
Adjust the lock rods using the following procedure:
1. Remove the door trim.
2. Release both lock rod rods from the lock rod retainers.
3. Position the upper lock rod first. Refer to arrow in illustration. Position the lock rod in the retainer so that there is 10 to 12 mm (0.39 to 0.47 in) (Approximately 11-12 threads showing) from the end of the lock rod.
Important :Make sure the upper striker is not bound against the latch. If this happens, you must push the door inboard to release the latch. To correct a bound latch, adjust the striker until the striker is centered with the latch.
4. Position the lower lock rod in the retainer where it rests, usually 5.0 to 6 mm (0.19 to 0.23 in) of threads from the end of the rod after the upper lock rod is locked in place.
5. Install the door trim.
Disclaimer
I will check out the manual on the 4W drive low tonight. Is there a way I can search for TSBs myself?