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What is interesting about my purchase is we negotiated 26500 and 2500 for my trade-in. But on the paperwork, they wrote up 27500 and 3500 for my trade in.
MSRP 31528
Price Paid 26500 + 6.25% MA tax + 125 Registration Fee + 299 Doc Fee
2.9% financing for 60 months
The information provided by etj0908 about Toyota Highlander Base. Was it a 2.7L or 3.5L Highlander? Anyone knows, please confirm.
If it's not a 2.7L, please let me know what is the possible, good price to get a 2.7L Toyota Highlander Base in Texas.
I need to know the price, so I can do well in the negotiation phase. Thanks for the helpful information.
thanks in advance.
I don't mention the price since it was a trade in and therefore what I paid has been factored in to the trade.
What I can tell you is that the 'smart target price' of a popular car value site is accurate. Most of the dealership in the area don't like to haggle. So, I haggled up the value of my trade. That way I felt I paid something closer to Invoice of the SUV.
I did visit both Walzer and Burnsville Toyota. Walzer had higher sticker price, however the car comes loaded with perks like free car washes, gasoline discounts etc. Burnsville had the lowest sticker, however did not have the same perks like Walzer. So, if you are in the long haul, perhaps you will make few hundred bucks by going with Walzer.
The service was like day and night between the dealerships. You feel good to walk in to the Burnsville dealership and speaking with the sales. Walzer felt like going to a Sams club and getting a vehicle.
My take on the Highlander:
It is fun to drive.
However I hate Toyota for not paying attention for finer details. I see no design evolution towards 2010 from the previous generation.
The door controls are a pain to reach since you have to bend your wrist to access them. Some of the controls aren't self intuitive and really small. The lavish options were never a turn on for me for the price you pay. The MPG sucks. still better than Pilot.
I test drove Rav4 (loved it) and Venza (hated the ride). Also test drove older CRV and Highlander.
I am 90% satisfied with the purchase. Toyota would easily have tried to satisfy other 10% with some little effort and smart thinking.
Please let me know if these prices are reasonable.
It's quite an upgrade over my 2003 Jeep Liberty Limited which we sold. It's smaller and has a smoother ride than my 2007 Honda Pilot. It is a lot easier to access the third row in the Highlander (than in the Pilot). The keyless entry control is separate from the key was disappointing because I thought the newer key fobs were becoming standard on most cars. Also, the lack of XM installed was disappointing, but I knew about that coming in.
My wife initially wanted either a RAV-4 or a Ford Escape. We didn't like the fact that we could really feel the road vibrations in the floor when we test drove the RAV-4 and the Escape didn't seem to match the Toyota quality, although we could have saved a couple of grand.
It's my first Toyota and it already made a five-hour trip with my family.
No trade-in. Also got 1.9% financing and 2 year free maintenance.
I think I could have pushed for a slightly better deal but decided my time is limited and going thru the negotiation is just a torturing experience.
msrp $31420.00 included options, tow package, dr power seat, reat air, engine immoblizer,tonneau cover, running lights, cold weather pkg
cargo net, roof rack cross rails, $ 28,641 before TTL, doe fee,
how good of a deal , im not to sure. i know i will enjoy the car.
my dealer is north west of chicago, suburbs.
raycc, nomatter what was paid, i know that you will be pleased with your highlander.
Thnaks..
But got another dealer making me this offer for a 2010 Highlander Base V6 AWD, MSRP is 31389.00
$28926.04 for the vehicle, $304.50 fees and sale tax with 1.9 apr.
Is the fees too high?
Even for other brands, people I know consistently get deals several hundreds below 'invoice'. A friend got a brand new 2011 hyundai sonata for 500 below invoice, which he thought wasn't possible initially.
A brand new car is a brand new car. I value my money far more than dealer 'loyalty'.
>But got another dealer making me this offer for a 2010 Highlander Base V6 AWD, MSRP is 31389.00
How does this fit in with what folks are paying?
Ken
The questions for the community are this:
- Should I be automatically suspicious given it has had 2 previous owners?
- If I trade this car in or sell it in the future, will it hold significantly less residual value for me in the future as the 3rd owner vs. if I were only the 2nd owner?
- What's a reasonable price to pay? My thought is to low-ball at ~$28-$29K...is this crazy?
The term "certified used vehicle" would be worth $ .00 to me.
So would the carfax report. They list only what is reported to them. Doesn't mean there are not other items that were not reported.
How many owners it had should not have any bearing on its value as a used car in the future. Unless those multiple ownerships in such a short time were due to some type of defect.
"I" would be suspicious because it already has had 2 previous owners and would try to determine the exact reason(s) why each got rid of it. If you could some way get their names & contact them, I believe they might be truthful since they have already unloaded any problems they had.
Bottom line is "I" think you would be better off buying a new 2010 even if it means going down to the base model if price is a major factor to you.
That 2008 model is IMHO grossly overpriced!
Also anyone know when the 2011s will be hitting the lots?
Thanks
I was given a quote at $34,500 plus doc fee $599. TTL is additional of course. Is that a good price or still negotiable. Also, why do dealers keep selling price and doc fee separate. From consumer perspective, what goes out from the pocket to the dealer matters. Tax and Title are Government components so there is no fuss about it.
I really appreciate your feedback and any good dealer in Jax, FL to negotiate with less torture. I need to close the deal by the end of August.
Thanks for your time!
Example - In my state (Illinois) there is a cap of $150 for doc fees. They're negotiable up to that amount. Too many buyers think that the cap means that's what they have to pay. Wrong! That's just the most they can be charged...
Happy car shopping
Ben, Can you pease also send/post the dealership. The price is awesome..
my suggestion is to try libertyville toyota and shoot them a fair offer which you would be willing to pay..
that is what i did after shopping many dealers. vary little haggling with them.
$35,015 MSRP (Base SE with floor mats)
$31,500 Negotiated prices/cap cost
3 yr 15k $381/mo with inceptions down ($249 doc,$650 acq,$250 tags,$381 first month payment for a toal of $1575 down)
Residual is $19,600
MF is .0005 or just over 1%
Im holding out for about $500 which i feel they can find in my trade or take off the Highlander. They are cutting me a check for the equity in my trade.
Hopefully they sharpen their pencils tomorrow
What was your OTD price, I can't think of you got 31,706 OTD price. that means taking 7% tax off, they offered you SE AWD for $29487? did you buy on cash or what was the deal going on that time?
i purchased a base model 6 cyl awd. OTD price $ 31100
msrp $31420.00 included options, tow package, dr power seat, reat air, engine immoblizer,tonneau cover, running lights, cold weather pkg
cargo net, roof rack cross rails,extra programed key $ 28,641 before TTL, doe fee,
how good of a deal , im not to sure. i know i will enjoy the car.
my dealer is north west of chicago, suburbs.
Price: 44,300 (plus tax, license, doc). Invoice price at dealer listed at 43,200. So offered price seems a bit high, but dealer willing to give us 0% for 48months.
Is this a good deal? what are others getting?
- Extra Value #2
- Cross bars
- Mud guards
MSRP=$31,619
Price:
$25,925 - price of car
$295 - Doc fee
$25 State Fee
_______
$26,245 OTD
Good deal? I think so based on what I have read.
dealer inv: $24143
options: $1076
(power multi-adj driver's seat: $256,
Extra value package(QB): $490
cross bars: $150
mats incl 3rd row: $180)
destination: $810
TDA: $483 ... toyota dealership association
gasoline: $10
dealer holdback: $555
wholesale financial reserve: $277
Total invoice: $27354
discount: $100
sale price: $27254
tax title and other fees: $ 3020
Total OTD: 30,274
It comes with 2yrs/25k miles free scheduled maintenance. I'm considering buying an additional 2 years of maintenance for $450. I'm also considering 3 years 0% financing in lieu of $1000 cashback.
Any comments on whether this is a good deal? Anyone know of or have had a better price in the area?
I used the $750 rebate in my area, which I should have included in my original post. Even with that taken into account I think I got an excellent price. I would be curious to hear if others think so as well. I actually think they would have gone a little lower (long story), but at least I think Im near the bottom of where they would sell it.
I just got one base fwd white color. MSRP 31,000 (QB+PE and some dealer added tint/bluetooth/mat etc) got quote $26,200 after 1000 rebate over email. but eventually the dealer made me paid 200 more for 26,400.
not the best I can do, but not too bad either.
I am in Dallas area.
In nov 2004, in bay area, I got a 2005 v6 base 2wd with 3rd row, driver power seat 27500 drive out, ($750 rebate applied), that is about $25K for the car. My experience: it is much easier to get a better price in bay area than in dallas area.
The reason I think they could have gone lower is they came back pretty quick with the price I threw out.
Im happy to provide a further breakdown on the car. What other details are you looking for in addition to what was in my original post.
Strategy--
- price the car at a number of dealers. This might be obvious but think its important to mention. I live in New England and there are a lot of dealers in my area. Use internet sales wherever possible to save time.
- Have you ever used TrueCar? I think this is OK to refer (not against the rules) since I believe this site has popped up on other threads. truecar.com should give you an idea where your price is in relation to others in your area. TrueCar will also give you certified price in your area. Check it out and let me know if you see a good price. The caveat here is that whatever dealers pop up might not have the exact vehicle. If you fill out the form to submit for a free quote, make sure you ask if they have the vehicle you want. At the very least you have a bargaining chip for a low price.
- You should really shoot for below dealer cost IMHO if at all possible. To do this the end of the month is key. I have tried to buy on the second to last day so that if something falls through you still have a day to work something else out as a fallback. Dealers do sell sometimes when they loose some money below their cost. Why? The number of cars they sell affects their allocation the following month. With 2011 coming out they really want to get good allocation when they arrive. Just my opinion really. Someone can correct me if Im off.
- Start your search early in the month even if you buy at the end. There will be dealers you visit and dealers you hear from through internet sales that take time to get back to you. I found once I had a low price some would match or better that price. At the end of the month it helps because you will find dealers will go even lower. Even ones who did not want to negotiate mid month. I found many dealers asked if I had bought yet a few days before the end of the month and they would go back to the drawing board with a new quote. At that point, if they are not even close, I would tell them they are not even in the ballpark. Also dealers that dont contact you, you can email them as well and ask if they have any of the vehicles you like either in stock or on the way. Its a good way to re-establish the conversation and you might get them to come down in price. At that point as with other dealers I would share the low price and see if they can beat it. If not and they match it might be enough to just know they have a vehicle in stock that you like.
- ALWAYS compare doc fees. Its legit but it varies from dealer to dealer. Ask them for any other fees that might be charged and work that into your cost. Rarely someone might not include the destination charge. Make sure that is included. Its the same across dealers but I had one dealer years ago not include it and it was a little deceptive.
Im sure I might have more to add but that is it off the top of my head.
I am not sure how much lower you can get there.
But in dallas area, I can get $26K (if not for the white color, which is about $200 more). considering california tax, this week; I think you can get a base v6 2wd with QB+PE at $28600 drive out (include tax and all fees) if you pay cash, $29700 drive out if you use their 1.9% APR finance.
This is based on my this week experience in dallas and 6 years ago experience in bay area. send email to more dealers. I sent to 10 dealers there in Nov 2004, finally made a deal at dublin, and the process was much easier there.
Had anyone seen a better price? Should I hold out for 0%? Could I possibly talk them down even more?