Okay...going to get a little more difficult now, and you'll need a digital multimeter. This is a manual transmission, right?
The circuit for the backup lights, is fed from a bus that also feeds your windshield wipers. So since we know the windshield wipers work, we know there is power on that bus, and we know the fuse you changed/checked for the backup lights should have power.
The backup lights are turned on, by a switch on the transmission (detecting that the transmission is in R). Then the power goes back to the rear and feeds the bulbs. So assuming that you have checked the bulbs, then the most likely problem is either the switch, or the wiring where it bends up and down every time you open your trunk (flexing back and forth over the years can cause the wires to break internally).
Find the reverse sensing switch on the transmission, and measure the voltage on the lugs. With the transmission in reverse, you should have 13+ volts on both lugs. Alternatively, you can take the switch out, and check the continuity with the Ohm setting of the multimeter.
i have an automatic transmission. and i do see some wear on the wires at the bend in the trunk.. do you think this is what may be wrong.. and i think i am just going to have an auto mechanic look at it as testing things gets a little beyond my knowledge. thank you for you help
If you see wear on the wires at the trunk, that would be the first place I'd suggest you investigate then. That could very well be the source of your problem.
I got a call from my son visiting in Cambodia. The car they're using, a 96 Camry, broke down on them. As they were driving radio and a/c stopped working. He pulled over to check the fuses. No fuses blown. No the car won't start. I didn't exactly understand how he got it started. Something about jumping wires at a relay under the dash. He said if he disconnects the battery the car dies so I'm assuming the alternator doesn't work either. He's in Cambodia with no tools. He's using a dash lightbulb as a test lamp. Please help!
Troubleshooting a 10 year old car, in another country, via the internet, thru a third party, on a loaned vehicle, with no tools, and no vehicle history or knowledge............
Don't believe I could realistically be of any value, perhaps others can.
I pulled out my fuse box yesterday and can't seem to find anything MARKED (windows\locks) - can someone tell me which fuse would cover the windows\locks??? 3 windows are left in the down position
Look in the lower left kick panel, it's in a block called R/B No 1. On the top of that block is the Turnsignal flasher, in the 2nd row down is the PowerCB on the left, and a starter relay on the right.
If you have trouble finding, turn on the turn signal and follow your ears to the clicking.
I guess I am LOST...I don't see this 30 Amp fuse...where is the lower left kick panel - is it under the steering column??? all of my fuses say 10, 15, 7.5 but no 30s...please help...it looks like we will be getting RAIN for the next 3 days...
Sit in the drivers seat, put your left foot on the floor by the brake, move it sideways to the left, and you will hit the kick panel. Take the kick panel off.
I didn't get the pictures via email...I've been home all day working on this work...I found the starter relay but still do NOT see anything marked 30A...I just can't find this 30A fuse...also pulled off the door panel to try and raise the window MANUALLY but it did not work either...
If I can't get these windows up, what should I use to COVER them??? I don't have the money to take it to a mechanic just now.
Did you get my earlier note, and you don't see the attachments? Or you can't get into your carspace.com email? Not sure why you don't have them...they were sent to mramsey22@carspace.com
You access it via the mailbox at the top of forum screen.
If you got to your mail, and got my note okay, but not the attachments........then if you want I will send to an external email address. Send me your email to kiawah@carspace.com
If you can't get the windows up, go buy a plastic tarp at any homesupply store or big box.
These diagrams were REALLY HELPFUL...THANK YOU FOR SEEING ME THROUGH THIS...
WOOHOO - IT'S ALL WORKING NOW!!!! - I used the fuse from the 'shoulder belt' to get my windows rolled up - I will purchase a 30A fuse at my leisure now that I have those windows rolled up...
I'm sure I am NOT the one to answer this question but funny thing was the FUSE I ended swapping out was NOT one of those colored fuses in the fuse box - this fuse was silver and round with two prongs, it was located to the RIGHT side of the actual fuse box that's in the kick panel - right next to the bright yellow starter relay (this is LABELED) on the LEFT...so BETWEEN the fuse box & the starter relay fuse.
I didn't have to buy a NEW fuse as I ended up pushing in the little reset button on that fuse and reinstalled it...everything is working now.
kiawah was VERY HELPFUL during my troubleshooting experience.
Please note, my car is a 1990 camry so I am not sure if it is RELEVANT to your 1994 camry (???)...
I assume your power windows aren't working. In a 94, that is controlled by a 30Amp fuse called 'Power'.
On the interior fuse box where you list the ECU-15A, Gauge-10Amp, etc......look way over on the right edge. There is a 30Amp Power fuse (just a bit above an imaginary horizontal line drawn from the ECU fuse), and underneath it is a 40Amp Defog fuse. It's the top one you want to check out.
I looked and there was nothing to the right I will look again, all that is to the right is a solid piece of plastic no other fuses are visible. I also now think this may not be a fuse issue. I wiggled the wire in the door jamb area and the windows rolled up. I think this may be a flexing issue you mentioned to someone earlier.
Yes, with the new info, it is most likely the wire that is flexing.
Unfortunately, the fix for this is to replace the defective wire, with a new one. You don't have to run it fuse to switch, you can just splice in a new piece that runs between the jamb and the door.
When I do this, I do the splicing inside the door, and inside the jamb. Sometimes it's hard to know exactly where the defect is in the cable that is flexing (in between the door and the jamb), so replacing the whole thing from where you know the wire is good and not flexing...is the best fix. Be sure to use stranded wire, which permits flexing without breaking more than a solid core wire would, and capable to handle 30Amps.
You need to be fairly comfortable with tools and soldering iron to do this job.
I need Help. I just bought a 1992 Toyota Camry XLE V6. Now I find out the windshield wipers don't work. I went by Auto Zone and checked the fuses (20A) and they were fine. The kind gentleman at Auto Zone said it may be a relay. I don't know a thing about cars. What is a relay? Where is it located? Is it expensive to fix? Is it possible for someone who knows -0- about cars do this (that would be me). Thanks so much.
This will most likely be one of three problems, a fuse, the switch, or the wiper motor.
You checked the 20A wiper fuse supposedly at Autozone, but verify that you have power to your wiper stalk on the steering wheel by turning on the washer. If the washer sprays fluid on the windshield, then you know that the fuse is indeed okay and you have power to the wiper switch.
Assuming you do have power as above, then the way to figure out if it is the switch or the motor that is the problem, is that you need to measure the voltage of the circuit at the wiper motor connector, with the switch in the on positions. If you have 13 volts at the connectors, then your switch is probably okay, and the wiper motor is bad. If you don't have power at the connector when the switch is in the on position, then your switch is bad.
If you know zero about cars and haven't done any work on them before, this would probably not be the time to start. But at least you know what a shop should be checking, and can find out an estimate a head of time approximately how much it should cost for repair.
The clock on my 1998 Camry went blank recently and it seems that both driver side and passenger side power mirrors as well as the cigarette lighter are not working. I've checked all of the fuses in the fuse box and all seem to be OK. What am I missing? Can someone help me to identify the location of the fuse that controls these items?
I just double checked the 40Amp fuse that you mentioned (visual inspection and electrical using an ohm-meter). It's fine. I'm still at a loss with this. The power outlet is working fine. The problem is with the clock, cigarette lighter and both power side view mirrors. I'm able to use the power outlet for charging my cell phone. Can there be a loose wire harness? If so, where would I begin to look?
Then it's pointing back to a defective 15A cigarette fuse.
The power runs thru AM1, then to the ignition switch accessories position, then to power three things. - The 15A cigarette fuse and circuit (which is your cigarette lighter, also feeds the clock, and also feeds your mirrors...none of this you say works. - The 15A power outlet, which you claim works. - and a 7.5A rad fuse.
Because you indicate the power outlet works, then that tells you that AM1 and the ignition switch are okay. So the problem suspect is that 15A cig fuse. Can you swap it out or replace it.
If you swap it and it still doesn't work, then get your digital voltmeter, pull the fuse again, and check the voltage on the pins in the junction block. Make sure you are getting 13volts on one of the pins (one of the pins would connect upstream to the switch and AM1, one of the pins would connect downstream to the cigarette lighter and clock). Trying to verify that you do indeed have 13volts feeding the fuse.
Where can I find pwr outlet 20 amp fuse.fuse box is under the steering column The blown fuse in my car has shorter prong, but the one i find in auto stores are longer prongs. Does the dealer has right one.
I have a new 2008 Toyota Camry and I'm using a Sirius satellite radio plugged into one of the power sockets. The problem is when the car is turned off, power to the power sockets is also turned off rendering the "pause and save" function on the satellite radio useless. All my other vehicles do not have this problem. How can I get constant power from the power sockets with the car turned off?
I haven't checked whether all of the outlets up front are accessory switched power, and don't have the schematics on the road with me. You may have to rewire it, or another alternative might be to put in another power outlet just for it directly to the new fused circuit.
The master power window switch on the driver's side has stopped working for the windows, but still works for the power door locks. The switch is new so I think it's a fuse. I can't find the fuse that goes w/ the master power window switch. Can anyone tell me which one it is or provide a diagram? Much appreciated!
Thanks for the helpful brochure. It looks like I need to replace the 30V POWER fuse A(b) in the Junction Block Sec. 1 p.BE 10. In the Toyota Camry Wagon, Junction Block Sec. 1 only has the left side of the rear view and not the right side where I need to replace the fuse. This is inside the car on the left side of the dashboard. Am I missing something?
I removed the ashtray and there's nothing behind it. Junc. Block 1 is on the left side og the dash and only has the 12 fuse slots, with a femaile plug slot to the right that is empty.
I just bought my first Toyota ('93 Camry LE) yesterday and am having a problem with the driver's side power window. All of the windows worked when I test drove it but when I got home, the driver's window wouldn't go all of the way back up. I could completely open it but it would only go back up about 3". That happened a couple of times and then it stopped going up at all. It's stuck completely open. The three other windows work fine though. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix that?
It's probably covered in previous threads so if I have time I'll read through them today when (if) I get time. If anyone has a quick and easy fix, please reply.
Thanks kiawah. I don't hear any sounds when I try to roll up the window. Does that give me a clue as to what might be wrong? I'm a noob when it comes to fixing automotive stuff so forgive me if my questions are stupid.
Feel free to email me at davesorlie2@gmail.com with any suggestions.
Let's ask people to respond to you here rather than by email. That way the information is available to others now and in the future. :-)
Also, just fyi, I saw where you said you would read through the posts if you had time. There's a search function for each individual discussion and also a search at the group level which will make your quest far easier!
I'm totally new at this, but I was wondering how do I go about extracting the 100A fuse that's on the mainboard for the 97 camry? Do I just pull it out because I'm having some trouble doing that.
There should be a white platic tweezer-like tool located in the Junction Block 2 fuse box located under the hood on the driver's side. It's clipped under the fusebox cover. It allows you to clip and pull out fuses. If you don't have it, a pair of needle nose plyers work, as well. Just be gentle.
Comments
You have a fuse box by your left knee, has both a front and a back side.
The circuit for the backup lights, is fed from a bus that also feeds your windshield wipers. So since we know the windshield wipers work, we know there is power on that bus, and we know the fuse you changed/checked for the backup lights should have power.
The backup lights are turned on, by a switch on the transmission (detecting that the transmission is in R). Then the power goes back to the rear and feeds the bulbs. So assuming that you have checked the bulbs, then the most likely problem is either the switch, or the wiring where it bends up and down every time you open your trunk (flexing back and forth over the years can cause the wires to break internally).
Find the reverse sensing switch on the transmission, and measure the voltage on the lugs. With the transmission in reverse, you should have 13+ volts on both lugs. Alternatively, you can take the switch out, and check the continuity with the Ohm setting of the multimeter.
Troubleshooting a 10 year old car, in another country, via the internet, thru a third party, on a loaned vehicle, with no tools, and no vehicle history or knowledge............
Don't believe I could realistically be of any value, perhaps others can.
I pulled out my fuse box yesterday and can't seem to find anything MARKED (windows\locks) - can someone tell me which fuse would cover the windows\locks??? 3 windows are left in the down position
Look in the lower left kick panel, it's in a block called R/B No 1. On the top of that block is the Turnsignal flasher, in the 2nd row down is the PowerCB on the left, and a starter relay on the right.
If you have trouble finding, turn on the turn signal and follow your ears to the clicking.
Sent an email to you with a couple pictures. Check your carspace email. Go to your mailbox, upper right hand corner.
If I can't get these windows up, what should I use to COVER them??? I don't have the money to take it to a mechanic just now.
Thanks for all of your help.
You access it via the mailbox at the top of forum screen.
If you got to your mail, and got my note okay, but not the attachments........then if you want I will send to an external email address. Send me your email to kiawah@carspace.com
If you can't get the windows up, go buy a plastic tarp at any homesupply store or big box.
Thanks...Michelle
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WOOHOO - IT'S ALL WORKING NOW!!!! - I used the fuse from the 'shoulder belt' to get my windows rolled up - I will purchase a 30A fuse at my leisure now that I have those windows rolled up...
AGAIN, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE.
Regards,
Michelle
I found the 100A-ALT under the hood of the car but have not been able to find the right 30A.
Under the hood there are three 30A fuses labeled as follows
30A-SPA
30A-RDI
30A-CDS FR-DEF
On the interior the fuses are as follows:
ECU-IG 15A
GAUGE 10A
STOP 15A
SEAT HTR 15A
WIPER 20A
TURN 7.5A
IGN 7.5A
CIG/RADIO 15A
MIR.HTR 10A
TAIL 15A
SRS 7.5A
/(Show blank but ther is a fuse in this spot.)
Thank you for any advice.
Sissyandty
I'm sure I am NOT the one to answer this question but funny thing was the FUSE I ended swapping out was NOT one of those colored fuses in the fuse box - this fuse was silver and round with two prongs, it was located to the RIGHT side of the actual fuse box that's in the kick panel - right next to the bright yellow starter relay (this is LABELED) on the LEFT...so BETWEEN the fuse box & the starter relay fuse.
I didn't have to buy a NEW fuse as I ended up pushing in the little reset button on that fuse and reinstalled it...everything is working now.
kiawah was VERY HELPFUL during my troubleshooting experience.
Please note, my car is a 1990 camry so I am not sure if it is RELEVANT to your 1994 camry (???)...
Thanks...Michelle
On the interior fuse box where you list the ECU-15A, Gauge-10Amp, etc......look way over on the right edge. There is a 30Amp Power fuse (just a bit above an imaginary horizontal line drawn from the ECU fuse), and underneath it is a 40Amp Defog fuse. It's the top one you want to check out.
Good luck
What is the general fix for this type of issue.
Thanks again.
:sick:
Unfortunately, the fix for this is to replace the defective wire, with a new one. You don't have to run it fuse to switch, you can just splice in a new piece that runs between the jamb and the door.
When I do this, I do the splicing inside the door, and inside the jamb. Sometimes it's hard to know exactly where the defect is in the cable that is flexing (in between the door and the jamb), so replacing the whole thing from where you know the wire is good and not flexing...is the best fix. Be sure to use stranded wire, which permits flexing without breaking more than a solid core wire would, and capable to handle 30Amps.
You need to be fairly comfortable with tools and soldering iron to do this job.
Susan
You checked the 20A wiper fuse supposedly at Autozone, but verify that you have power to your wiper stalk on the steering wheel by turning on the washer. If the washer sprays fluid on the windshield, then you know that the fuse is indeed okay and you have power to the wiper switch.
Assuming you do have power as above, then the way to figure out if it is the switch or the motor that is the problem, is that you need to measure the voltage of the circuit at the wiper motor connector, with the switch in the on positions. If you have 13 volts at the connectors, then your switch is probably okay, and the wiper motor is bad. If you don't have power at the connector when the switch is in the on position, then your switch is bad.
If you know zero about cars and haven't done any work on them before, this would probably not be the time to start. But at least you know what a shop should be checking, and can find out an estimate a head of time approximately how much it should cost for repair.
Good luck.
I'm at a loss. :confuse:
In the junction box, it is right near the Dome Fuse.
I think your power outlet is also not working.
Let me know if you find this blown or not.
Thanks for any help you can offer. :confuse:
The power runs thru AM1, then to the ignition switch accessories position, then to power three things.
- The 15A cigarette fuse and circuit (which is your cigarette lighter, also feeds the clock, and also feeds your mirrors...none of this you say works.
- The 15A power outlet, which you claim works.
- and a 7.5A rad fuse.
Because you indicate the power outlet works, then that tells you that AM1 and the ignition switch are okay. So the problem suspect is that 15A cig fuse. Can you swap it out or replace it.
If you swap it and it still doesn't work, then get your digital voltmeter, pull the fuse again, and check the voltage on the pins in the junction block. Make sure you are getting 13volts on one of the pins (one of the pins would connect upstream to the switch and AM1, one of the pins would connect downstream to the cigarette lighter and clock). Trying to verify that you do indeed have 13volts feeding the fuse.
Thanks
Thanks,
Skywalker2
Much appreciated!
I just bought my first Toyota ('93 Camry LE) yesterday and am having a problem with the driver's side power window. All of the windows worked when I test drove it but when I got home, the driver's window wouldn't go all of the way back up. I could completely open it but it would only go back up about 3". That happened a couple of times and then it stopped going up at all. It's stuck completely open. The three other windows work fine though. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix that?
It's probably covered in previous threads so if I have time I'll read through them today when (if) I get time. If anyone has a quick and easy fix, please reply.
Thanks,
Dave
Feel free to email me at davesorlie2@gmail.com with any suggestions.
Thanks,
dave
Also, just fyi, I saw where you said you would read through the posts if you had time. There's a search function for each individual discussion and also a search at the group level which will make your quest far easier!