Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

smith2smith2 Member Posts: 1
All 4 windows on a 1988 Camry have quit at the same time. We can't find a blown fuse but we are not positive as to the fuse location, maybe we missed it

Anyone have a helpful thought?


  • hank2hank2 Member Posts: 76
    Not sure, but you might try the driver's kick panel - a small fuse panel under a cover.

    I don't know the which one or if that is even correct.


  • peter panpeter pan Member Posts: 75
    If all 4 power windows are blown at the same time, it must be the blown fuse for power windows.

    The fuses for power windows in Camry is in a panel at the left knee of the driver. There should be a chart of which fuse is which on the cover of the panel. Replace the fuse and the windows should work agian.
  • dirk3dirk3 Member Posts: 9
    Other posts have been ignored. Please help. New 2004 camry xle. Low fuel indicator light does not even flicker, even though I drove down to a refill of 15.6 gal on the 18.5 gallon tank. Is it possible that this light is not active on the xle because of the information center which gives fuel range? If not, is there a fuse for only this function, since all other functions seem to work?
    Anyone seen this problem before?
    Thanks in advance.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    When you start the car, does the light come on at all? If not, I would guess that it is redundant due to the info center you mention.
    Also, is there mention of this light in the owner's manual? It might say something, then have a note to disregard of you have the XLE or something along those lines. Manuals are generic for the model with specifics for trim lines/levels/options.

    I have an 03 LE but never ran it down past 3/8...

  • dirk3dirk3 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the reply. The owner's manual mentions the light, but the manual is the same for LE or XLE, so we can't depend on that. The XLE specs refer to the low fuel indicator light, which is why I suspect it should work. The light does not come on when the key is in the on position, but neither does my 95 camry, and it's light has always worked. All I need is for anyone with an 04 xle to tell me if their light works. Can someone out there respond??
  • scotttscottt Member Posts: 4
    Odd, but I have a 2004 Highlander and its low fuel indicator comes on at about 17-gallons-gone. Do not know if that helps, but the Highlander ha the Camry chasis, engine and drive train and same fuel capacity.
  • bobgermanybobgermany Member Posts: 5
    Hello everyone. Has anyone ever permanently fixed the malfunctioning turn signal problem by replacing the whole bulb socket wiring assembly? Is this possible. I want to completely fix this problem. I have done all the other solutions but of course they only work for a little while. Thanks Bob

    99 Camry V6
  • newfoldenkidnewfoldenkid Member Posts: 1
    Hi all. I have a 1990 Camry, love it, 314,000 miles and running strong. Recently my electric windows and door locks quit working, I assume it is a blown fuse, but after pulling every fuse (I think) none of them were blown. And on the fuse covers I see nothing about power windows or door locks. Anyone tell me what I am missing here? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
  • yazyazooyazyazoo Member Posts: 20
    I have a 99 Camry. My dome light has gone out and I replaced the bulb. However this doesn't seem to have corrected the problem. The fuse looks fine and can't see anything else that could be wrong. Any suggestions or what could be wrong. It isn't nice coming into a dark car at night.
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Check your door switch and make sure it's working it turns on and off the dome light.
  • yazyazooyazyazoo Member Posts: 20
    The light never comes on. So pushing the switch makes no difference. If I open one or all doors the light doesnt work.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    ever replace a burnt-out lightbulb in your house with a brand new bulb which also turns out to be bad? it happens.

    if you had a volt/ohm/amp multi-meter (Radio Shack, Home Depot, or Lowes), you could see if you are getting 12V at the fixture, and/or if the bulb's filament is good.

    can you turn the switch on the interior dome light from OFF or DOOR to ON? ;)
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    I agree with the idea of getting a volt meter and checking the bulb socket put the positive (red) probe to the center of the bulb socket and the (black) probe to the outside or ground if you are not 12vdc reading from the socket then if you are able to check the fuse from one side to get a 12 vdc reading if not your best bet is an shop that works only on auto electrical they can usually find the problem. Good Luck :shades:
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Has anyone yet seen anything indicating that this poster knows about the "DOOR/OFF/ON" switch?
  • yazyazooyazyazoo Member Posts: 20
    Yes I do know about that switch! Tried it. No go
  • cballcball Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 toyota camry xle and one day right after an oil change three strange electrical problems appeared. The remote for the car alarm stopped working, the interior clock appears dim and always resets to 1:00, and the interior dome light doesn't work either. I checked the fuse box under the steering column which was fine, then I proceeded to check the fuses under the hood. I found one that was blown and it corresponded to the dome light. I thought it was going to be an easy fix, but the second I tried to put a new fuse in it, it blew. Has anyone got any suggestions to this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You have to isolate what is on that circuit, which is causing a short and blowing the fuse. First, try taking the bulb out of's a long shot, but easy to try. If that doesn't work, you're going to have to look up the electrical schematics (or perhaps the manual) to see what all is on that circuit, it certainly would be more than a single dome light. Unplug as many devices as you can, and then put a new fuse in. Hopefully if you've disconnected enough, you would have disconnected the failing device. Start plugging the items back in one by one, until you find the device that blows the fuse again. You will now have isolated the problem, and you'll have to then fix and/or replace the problem device.

    Here's a 2002 electrical schematic, which may be different than yours, but may be a reasonable reference.
  • cballcball Member Posts: 2
    Thanks alot for your advice, I am going to try all that right now. The wiring diagram you attached should be considerably helpful as well.
  • jloachjloach Member Posts: 3
    I also have a 99 Camry and the interior light is out. I checked the bulb with a meter (bulb is good.) I verified operation of the ON/OFF/DOOR switch with a meter (also good.) Then I checked for 12v at the wires (not good.) So I figured a blown fuse, but I've checked every fuse and can't find a blown one! Also it would be hard to believe the interior light is on it's own fuse and that appears to be the only thing in the car that doesn't work? Have you found a solution for your dome light not working?
  • jloachjloach Member Posts: 3
    Found the problem after checking out the schematics. The service shop had just replaced the integration relay, when they put everything back, they forgot to connect one of the plugs. Happened to be the one to the dome light. Problem solved.
  • maxmax31maxmax31 Member Posts: 1
    If you find a solution of the problem with power locks/windows, could you please post it here? I have the same problem with my Toyota Camry 95. Thank you.
  • kosskoss Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. I'm borrowing my Dad's 91 Camry while I work on the trans on my Ranger and the blown head gasket on my Subaru. A couple of weeks ago, the auto-engage seatbelt on the driver's side of the Camry just quit. No hesitation, no slow down, just didn't work when I went to get in one day. I've gotten under the dash and reset the breaker (it was tripped I think). Nothing. I knew the passenger side was working so I switched the breakers. Passenger side still worked and driver's side was dead. All blade fuses under there check out fine. Any other suggestions besides the dealership and / or a new unit? :sick: Just to be clear, this is the electric motor unit that automatically runs the shoulder belt into place when you open / close the door. Now it just sits in the door closed position. Thanks
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    These don't last forever, so unfortunately you are probably looking at a replacement.

    Or you could live with it, since at least the belt is stuck in the proper position for driving. Is your dad limber enough to duck under the belt when getting in or out of the car?
  • kosskoss Member Posts: 2
    Yeah, maybe he can pull it over his head, but I was hoping someone had dealt with this and knew a mechanical answer. I like fixing things. I also noticed that the ball in the retractors are stuck and the seatbelts are useless as-is. I'm going to use the de-magnetizer trick on those. Thanks anyway.
  • gem_timgem_tim Member Posts: 5
    I have a power prob with my 99 Camry LE V6 and was wondering if anyone had seen it or had any suggestions on what to look for before I sacraficed my baby to a mechanic. Anyway all of my power outlets are not working. I think what could have caused it was I bought a Belkin charger for my Ipod and that may have something to do with it. I looked at the fuses for these outlets in the dash fuse box and they looked fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You may not be able to see that the fuse is blown. Try swapping it with another fuse of the same amp rating.
  • deano12deano12 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, new to the board here - hope I am posting in the correct place. Looking for some advice. The AC light on my daughters 98' Camry has started flashing. Car has approximately 125K on it. Manual says take it to the dealer. Any thoughts or info on what the flashing light means?

    Thanks so much!

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Several general items come to mind - a slipping A/C compressor drive belt, low refrigerant charge, and/or a clogged cabin air filter. (Since I don't own a Camry, I'll happily assume the mantle of "moron 1st class" if the cause turns out to be something entirely unrelated...;))
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My vote goes toward a slipping drive belt or a failed/failing A/C compressor clutch.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It can't be the cabin air filter, because the Camry didn't get one until the redesign for the 2002 model year.
  • icehengeicehenge Member Posts: 9
    When I changed the thermostat on my 98 camry I removed the electrical plug from the compressor. When I tried the A/C the light flashed, then I realized the plug wasn't inserted all the way.

    Doubt thats your problem but its worth a shot to see if the electrical connection is secure at the compressor.
  • 94wrangler94wrangler Member Posts: 4
    99 Camry--Rear passenger window won't go up.....installed new regulator and driver door switches........still won't go up but all other windows and locks work......Is there a fuse somewhere that I can check.......Silly, but I didn't get a manual with this car....(yes, I know..I'll get one on E-bay) But for now I need suggestions...Thanks
  • scitsailorscitsailor Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I'm new to this forum and website. And I'm not going to start off well, because I have a problem!! I have a 1996 Toyota Camry station wagon, and yesterday when I got in the car, the clock, the radio, and the overhead dome light didn't work. I wouldn't have cared as much if I wasn't driving 4 hours home from Maine, but I figured it was a fuse, and I'd just change it at home. I got the new fuse for it, but as soon as I put the new fuse in, that fuse blew too. So the guy at the autoparts store said that I probably had an electrical shortage that had something to do with THAT fuse in the fusebox. I know I can't really get off complaining because those are the only three things in the car that I don't really need, but I'd still like to fix this. Any ideas as to whether or not I can do this myself and how? Or, how much do you think it would cost in the shop? Has this happened to anyone? Also, when we opened up the fusebox in the engine compartment, the dome/clock/radio were all using a 25 mini fuse, when it relaly called for a 20 mini fuse. Could that be related?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    If you have a short, it wouldn't matter if you used a 100 amp fuse, they'd all probably blow.

    dome lights are notorious for short circuits...but...since a "short" circuit means that a wire is grounding "short of" the destination, you'd have to trace the wire all the way from the fuse box to the dome light.

    You might start by looking at the switch in the door that works the dome light...remove that switch and tape it up so that the wires can't touch anything. Let the switch dangle in outer space and put in a new fuse.

    If that doesn't work, drop the dome light out of the headliner and do the same thing. Make sure no wires are touching and just let the dome light dangle up there---if either of those cures the problem you know the short was either at the door switch or the dome light area.

    The radio rarely causes such a hard short like this unless it was one of those home-grown installations done with tape and wires twisted together. You might look under there and see if you see a lot of homemade wiring. Factory wiring is neat and tidy.

    As for the clock, that might be hard to pop out of the dash to check.

    Last area would be BEHIND the fuse box, where you'd have to unscrew the entire fuse box and inspect behind it, in the area of the fuse that is blowing.

    Always exercise caution when fooling with wiring. I always like to have someone nearby who has loosed the positive battery cable so that it's just a slip fit on the battery. If something starts to smoke, you yell and they yank.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    "...I always like to have someone nearby who has loosed the positive battery cable so that it's just a slip fit on the battery..."

    Unless Toyota is different from everyone else selling cars in North America, that's wrong. Whenever disconnecting an automobile battery in most production cars over the last 50 years, always pull the negative (-) battery cable from its terminal first. Pulling the positive (+) cable first is apt to spark, with the potential to set off a hydrogen gas explosion at the battery and send pieces and hot sulfuric acid flying in all directions. (The acid and battery shrapnel aren't at all conducive to continued eyeball function, but they can sure be a dandy motive for learning Braille...;))
  • scitsailorscitsailor Member Posts: 3
    where abouts in the door is the dome switch?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    shortage is something experienced when there's too little of something.

    you mean electrical "short" or short-circuit.

    i agree with most of what shifty wrote. except me personally, i would have the negative leg of the battery loose and the one to be disconnected by a bystander.

    think about replacing a battery: the very first terminal to pull is the negative. why?

    1). If you are using a metal tool without insulated grips on the positive terminal first (i.e. with the negative strap still attached), you are creating a closed circuit with your body if another part of your body is in touch with the metal body of the vehicle. it's not voltage necessarily that can defib the heart, but current, and chances are the path you've created passes in close proximity to the heart. if the current draw is just right, i think you can have an interesting experience.

    2). if you have a battery which is de-gassing, shorting the positive with the negative (say the tool slips and touches part of the frame) will cause a nice short almost directly, but in close proximity to the battery. there's likely to be sparking, and where there's spark and degassing... possibility of explosion.

    (2) is one of the reasons why when you jump a car, you connect positive battery terminals first, and then one leg of the negative jumper cable to the good battery, and the other end of the negative jumper cable (i think i have this correct) to some exposed piece of metal on the car your trying to jump far enough away from the battery that any sparking will be unlikely to cause a problem if there is degassing.

    now some may say, but wait when I'm replacing an old battery with a new one, and i install the positive first, then the negative, if i'm physically in contact with the negative at the time i am also touching the body of the car, won't there be current flow? i think the answer to this is yes and no. yes there will be current flow, but more current will flow through the path of least resistance, that being the terminal of the battery and cable clamp, and not through the vehicle body, your body, to the cable clamp.

    shifty - did i get this one correct?

    one edmunds tee-shirt extra large pleese. ;)

    ok, just exercise caution with the battery.
  • scitsailorscitsailor Member Posts: 3
    Shortage actually works in this sense if you think about it, because there is a shortage of electricity getting to the things I need the electricity to get to. Ie: there is none.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    when you have a short with very little resistance, you have maximal current flow. Voltage = Current * Resistance. The volts across the battery is 12, so as resistance decreases, current increases.

    this is why a fuse rated for a given current blows.

    so - you're in a situation of excess and shortage at the same time i guess. ;)

    agreed, the current is flowing in the circuit which has the short, and not as much (relative) in the circuits that are well behaved.

    shify's idea to pull the over-head dome assembly is a good one. if you have a custom, non-OEM radio/amp, I'd start there myself.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I had a short once in an old vette, found in the wiring harness the flexed between the car and the drivers door everytime it was opened. Years of opening or closing caused the failure.

    Personally however with your limited symptoms, I'd look at the dome light first (easiest), unless someone messed with the factory radio.

    You may want to look at the electrical schematics for that year/car (see the 'other' web site), to make sure there aren't items on that circuit that you don't realize aren't working (like a lighter).
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    My front passenger window in my 99 Camry will go down but has a hell of a time coming back up....I see I can get a motor pretty cheap on ebey and I am reasonably handy with cars....has anybody done this on a 99 Camry before? if so how did it go? thanks again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    RE: Short circuit:

    Maybe I'm trying to outsmart myself here.

    My reasoning was not to take OFF the positive cable, just to loosen it a bit so you COULD yank it off.

    Now why the positive? Well, yes, conventional wisdom says to take off the negative and this is probably good advice. But you know, either one works in an emergency. Maybe BOTH should be loosened, to give the stand-by person TWO changes to interrupt an electrical fire.

    My understand of "short" is that the current falls "short" of the target, that is, it completes a circuit well before the circuit that was supposed to be completed. After all, the dome light is the end of the line, so a live wire touching ground before the dome light has completed a "short circuit" back to the battery.

    I really don't believe the term is related to "short" as in "lesser amount". It's "short" as in distance, not volume.

    ANYWAY-- I'm always nervous about giving electrical advice out to anyone without supervision, but if they use common sense and have a back-up plan (like two people working on it), they should be okay.

    Nigel Shiftright once told me, with singed finger pointed in the air: "Destruction happens at ten times the rate of construction".
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if the yanking is done without contact to the body of the vehicle and the terminal (i.e. someone grabs the insulation), which wire you pull is gonna be immaterial to the interruption of power.

    but, you'll have to re-attach that positive at some point won't you? then you'll have the issue with possible shock.

    short: well that is essentially a path to ground with little intermediate resistance. what is the resistance of a length of wire? there is a formula, but for most wire used in a car, it is pretty negligable.

    where there is small resistance, more current must flow, hence a fuse rated for X amps will blow when sinking more than X amps. remember volts = current * resistance.

    a fuse in a car, or in a house is rated such that it is the weakest point in the circuit, right? you want the fuse to blow when it senses too much current flowing. the heating which will result will cause the fuse to fail.

    if the fuse were rated larger than the current carrying capability of the wire, or metal conducting parts in the destination device, guess where the heating is going to occur and where the circuit will open.

    you never want to "over-amp" a fuse or a circuit breaker in your home for the given wiring. you want the fuse or ckt bkr to trip and protect the wiring and the device.

    in a car: no vehicle fires please.

    as to fall's short of the target, in general this statement is true, however the target (like the overhead dome light) can be the target. i understand what you are saying, the real target is the bulb in the overhead dome light. no argument there.

    as far as loosening both clamps... i'm not going to give you advice shifty. you're the auto guy. me though? i wouldn't do it to either terminal. i mean to say there is a time to remove the negative and work on a circuit, and there is a time to re-connect... but to leave loose? nope. i can't see the advantage, and only see a disadvantage. let's say you got a current drain and you are tracking it down, and lets say you leave 1 or 2 loose clamps. guess where there is going to be resistive heating (happens where the amount of conductor / contact is smallest)? just like the sizing of the fuse (generally set by thickness of fuse material). guess also where there is gonna be potential arcing?

    if you have a battery out-gassing...

    well. maybe *i'm* over analyzing the problem now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    This discussion inspires me to install a battery shut off device!
  • rfp1rfp1 Member Posts: 4
    After skimming all messages, haven't seen anyone with this problem.

    I live in mid-atlantic area, very hot the past week.
    I went out to my car after work, about 95 - 100 degrees.

    The car started, but would not come out of park. AC, power windows, turn signals, did not work. Brake light, tire pressure light, and ABS light, were all on. I called dealership and they told me about the button to push to get it out of park. I drove the car to the dealership, probably about 120 degrees inside, 50 minute drive.

    Left it there overnight, same symptoms in the morning. They hooked it up to diagnostic machine, and everything started working properly, without doing anything. They kept the car for another day, did not happen again. So they have no idea what happened.

    My theory is computer/heat/short circuit problem.

    I called that Toyota number and they assigned me a reference #.
  • rfp1rfp1 Member Posts: 4

    Picked up car this evening, drove home. My wife went to take the car out, exact same problem.............
  • rfp1rfp1 Member Posts: 4
    The dealership had my car for almost 2 weeks, they replaced the body far so good, have had the car back 2 problems.....yet.............the dealership was very very accomodating, nothing but good things to say about them..........Jim Coleman in Bethesda, MD.
  • satzx1satzx1 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2002 camry le, bot the abs and brake warning lights are on. In what instance both the lights comes on, hoping that its not an abs problem, which is very expensive to fix. The fluids are at the max level and I have been running the car for the past month without any problem.

    Please advise..I appreciate your help in advance..
  • smile1017smile1017 Member Posts: 37
    On the ABS, it could be the sensor that senses the movement of you wheel. If it cannot sense that the light will come on because it won't know when your wheels lock and it needs to kick in. I would get it checked out before is starts raining/snowing.
    As for the brake, if you mean the parking break light, it could be a simple thightening of your parking break. It be a definite if you have to pull you parking break really hard/high to get it to engage.
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    If those items dont fix it, you can get the abs controler scanned at your dealer and they will tell you what is wrong.
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