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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions



  • windirwindir Posts: 1
    How do i pull the 100A fuse that is next the battery..the car is a 96 camry. the car isnt getting any power at all and i figure the blown fuse would be a good reason for the problem. i tried pulling on it but it wont come out.. thanks in advance.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    check post 127
  • ashleyrmashleyrm Posts: 2
    Kiawah - I am having the same problem with my son's 1995 camry. In your post, it says that the M-fuse is on Junction Block #1 under the dash. Is Junction Block #1 located to the left of the steering wheel behind the ashtray? If so, I found that, but I can't figure out which fuse is the M-fuse. Any hints?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Gen3-JunctionBoxLocation_Power-M Fuse


    Check the 30Amp Power Fuse, upper right corner

    Let us know how you make out...thanks
  • ashleyrmashleyrm Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. The fuse was blown. Replaced it, but as soon as we tried to use the windows, it blew again. Likely beyond my ability to fix, so I guess I'll be taking it in for repair.
  • briscoe11briscoe11 Posts: 1
    I have had no power from the driver side control to the back right window for a year or so. This weekend I lost power to most of the buttons on the radio display and the right back turn light (the bulb looked ok, but I plan to replace it). The CD and tape players will still play and the volume knob adjusts sound, but I can't get AM, FM, skip tracks, etc. Do I need a new battery? Possible wiring issues?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hard to say, sounds like you've got a number of weird things happening. You're about at the useful life of a battery, so it is conceivable that your battery is going bad. However, when a battery goes bad you would normally start experiencing a problem with starting, when the highest current drain is on the battery.

    A prudent thing to do is to take your vehicle to an autoparts store (AutoZone, PepBoys, etc), as they all do a free battery and alternator check for you. They'll test the vehicle under load, to see that the battery and alternator are working. They may also notice whether you have any corrosion on the battery terminals.

    Once you are sure that you have clean power, you can then begin solving the other problems (if they still exist)
  • jalex2300jalex2300 Posts: 1
    The story begins with my girl letting her brother borrow her car only to get bumped from behind resulting in her horn to stop working. Any idea where the horn is and why would it have this effect???
  • tattmanntattmann Posts: 4
    Hi all, I am needing a little help here. I bought my daughter an 89 camry. The thing developed a major electrical problem. I went out to start it up and move it the other day, and it had no power at all. I had just put a brand new battery in it. I checked, and the battery was drained completely dead. I think the key was left on. Anyway, I re-charged it, it is full, when I open the door, the buzzer chimes. I turn the key on, and .... dead. Nothing. After a couple of minutes, the door chime will begin to chime again, but as soon as I turn the key, dead again. Well, I went through and cleaned the battery cable connections very well, and checked them with a multimeter. It is getting power to the starter. (larger cable) I checked all the fuses, and fuse links I could find. They all showed perfect continuity. None were blown. Still, no power. I was under the hood, scratching my head, when I heard a relay type click. and suddenly it had power. Until I turned the key again. Someone please give me a place to check? I am brainfried here, and have very little time to hit and miss checking it out. Thanks in advance, Mike.
  • bunybuny Posts: 2
    Hello Mike
    Check for a defective relay under the dash on the driver side. Had almost the same problem on our 2007 Camry. I could start the car but had no power to the shift lock,windows,heater fan,wipers etc. It was a realy cold day.
    Dealer told me this relay causes problems in cold(-20C)weather and replacd it this spring with a re-designed one. Have also heard about loss of electric power in hot weather.
    Your relay might be just worn out.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I suspect the keyswitch and/or the kewswitch relay, corrosion on one of your main battery cables (including ground), or bad starter/solenoid.

    With a new battery, I'm assuming you have cleaned both of the battery cable connections and their is no corrosion in either of those cables. Since you have no starter engagement, you have to start there. When you turn the key to the start position, you should get power to the solenoid. Get a voltmeter on the solenoid and have someone turn the key, no 13v figure out why the key switch isn't getting you power. If you have 13v at the solenoid, then you should hear the solenoid engage, which should then provide the power to the starter motor. If you hear the solenoid engage but the starter motor doesn't turn, check for corrosion and power on the +side of the cable coming from the battery. No power, your battery cable is bad. Power on your starter but it doesn't spin, then the starter motor is bad (assuming the battery ground cable to the engine is good with no corrosion at the engine side as well).
  • jthortonjthorton Posts: 1
    My temp gauge shoots to the max upon start up. After a few minutes it reads normal. Car is not over heating. Is this connected to a short in the tail light? If not, what? I'm stumped!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The temperature circuit has nothing to do with a tail light circuit.

    Check the temperature sensor, the wire connection to the temperature sensor, or the gauge itself.
  • lizardkinglizardking Posts: 16
    I'm not really sure if this belongs here, but my fiancee's mechanic said its an electrical thing, so I'll ask here.

    My fiancee has a 1992 Automatic Camry with about 180K miles on it. Every few months, it stalls out, and the only way she can drive the car is if she uses both the gas and brake pedals at the same time. Her mechanic said its an electrical problem and would cost about $2000 to fix. However, it seems to go away on its own after a few days. The last time it happened, she called the mechanic and he said that its just getting old and may be near the end of its life, but I don't believe that's a good answer, so I'm hoping someone here has a better idea.

    This car also blows hot air all the time, even with the fan off. It comes from under the driver's seat. Any tips on what this might be would help too, as while the car is toasty warm and nice in the winter, its brutal in the summer!
  • tattmanntattmann Posts: 4
    Hi, a followup to my posting of camry woes. I took today and tomorrow off to work on the camry. I did alot of work on it, but got not an inch ahead.

    I went through and changed out all fusible link blocks (Including the 80 amp bolt in one) even though they all had good continuity. The Neg cable for the battery is brand new. The positive cable I cleaned up really well even though it was fine. I now have absolutely NO power at all in the car. I bought and installed a new ignition switch in the steering column. I was able to get a little power for a couple minutes. As soon as I tried to start it, I lost all juice. The battery is new, the cables are great, the ignition switch is new. I purchased a starter relay, but I am unable to locate it to replace it. The Haynes manual says for an 88 it is in the top of the fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side. I checked, my 89 has no provision for one there. Any ideas? I am at a complete loss here. I will be taking tomorrow off and going through everything I can on it. I checked every fuse and circuit breaker and could find absolutely NOTHING wrong, all had perfect continuity. I thought maybe the starter? So, I removed it, hooked up a set of jumper cables. Neg to battery neg, other end to starter bolt ear, and pos to battery and terminal post. I then used a heavy gauge wire to jump from hot to start terminal. The starter kicks out and spins up! So, the starter is fine.

    To let you in on a little background, when I got the car, the alternator was shot. BADLY! The windings were shorted out and burned up. So, I took it and had it rebuilt at a shop. I put it on, and put a new battery in. I started it right up. No problems. The lights warning indicator on the dash was on though. I looked them over, and found nothing wrong. So, I took it for a short test drive. I came back and parked it because the lower control arm bushings were shot badly too. I took the passengers side off, and replaced the bushings, and put it back on. Tried to start it, and bam! Dead battery. I charged it, and tried again to start it. I would turn the key on, the door beeper would chime, until I turned it to "start". Then everything would go dead. After a minute, the beeper would come back on slowly and faintly. After about 8 beeps, it would be normal loudness. If I tried to start, it would go dead again. At this point, I have NO power. Not even to headlights or anything normally hot in off key position. At this point, I think either a complete good wiring harness from another car, or a stick of dynamite are in order. Lol. Please give me your insight?
  • tattmanntattmann Posts: 4
    Hi, to be honest, with my general car knowledge, it sounds like the throttle position sensor is teetering on going bad. It could be several other things, but first, is your check engine light on? If it is something as simple as the sensor, it would be a fairly inexpensive fix. I would definately get a second opinion on the car as that price seems quite high. Take it to a qualified shop, don't call around as you will only get guesses over the phone and high quotes.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    Check your carspace email. Access it via link on upper right hand corner.
  • tattmanntattmann Posts: 4
    I checked my mailbox, but nothing was there. I don't know what happened there? Anyway, I got the problem fixed at least for now. I still can't find the starter relay though. I went through this morning with my multimeter. Everything in the under hood fusebox had power. However everything at the ignition switch only showed 1.54 volts present. I couldn't understand it. I went through once again, checked the battery cables and their connections. Looked great. I moved the ground cable from its location on the transmission onto the engine block. Instant power on! I checked the ground boss on the transmission, it looks great. I see no corrosion or any defects at all there. The ground strap on the transmission also looks perfect. Only thing I can figure is maybe internal casting flaw in the bolt hole not allowing good electrical conductivity. I don't know. At any rate, the car is running great now, all that matters. Thanks for your thoughts and patience, take care all, Mike.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I sent some attachments in the email that would be helpful to you, not just for this problem.

    Sounds like you have zero'd in on the ground problem though, which is the most important at this point in time.
  • lizardkinglizardking Posts: 16
    No, the CEL is not on. The mechanic she currently uses is very good. Her whole family uses him and they all trust him. Could it just be nearing the end of it's life?
  • jworkjwork Posts: 1
    I replaced the fuse and then the following day
    when coming home from work, a distance of 30
    miles, it blows again. The radio was on and I
    had a cellphone adapter plugged in without the
    phone being attached.Any ideas. I would think
    that with an average short the fuse would blow


  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You should get a voltmeter, and check whether you have power getting to the switches and then the window regulator. It is possible that the wire broke, where it pivots when you open and close the door.....but usually you'd see it intermittently working before it stops working completely.

    Start metering at the drivers switch, you know you have power feeding the master switch unit. Check to see if you also have power on the RRear switch when you move the switch up and down. If you have good power there, then move to the RR door switch and meter there. You should see the same power when you use the drivers main switch. If you have power, then you know the wiring is good back to the door, and the problem is either in the RR switch or the regulator.

    I'm out of town this week and don't have access to the electrical schematics here.....but if you don't find the problem by Monday then I'll jump back in to help.
  • Thanks....I'll see what happens after that....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you get this figured out, or do you need additional help?
  • Thanks for asking..........I just returned from vacation..Well NO...Not fixed...Could you tell me what color wire controls the rear pass window...After my son had his "System" installed I noticed that it quit I am assuming that the guys pinched or cut the wire.......If I knew what color to look for starting at the front and work my way back ..might make it easier.. All other windows and locks are operating . I did also purchase a manual !
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Oh....sounds like you have a pretty good idea WHO caused the problem.....not to find it. :sick:

    Check your carspace email, you have mail! It's the upper right corner of your screen if you haven't accessed before.
  • Thanks Again.....Now I have something to get started.....I'll let you know....
  • dks64dks64 Posts: 1
    Would this be a fuse issue or am I looking at something more involved? If its a fuse, does anyone know which one.
  • my 1993 toyota camry courtsey light will not work. replaced the bulb, and checked all know fuses, what next?
  • First, my apology for not an expert on mechanical/electrical stuff. I am a software person so I can do the logic but just can't do the hands-on stuff well :cry:

    The Rear Light Failure light on my 1998 Camry (4 cyl) came on last night. It seems the blinkers work and the break lights work. The parking lights do not work - on both sides. The warning light seem to come on when I turn on the parking light (not when I hit the break).

    Reading through the old posts, it seems it could be:

    1 - bulb
    2 - relay
    3 - fuse

    I am trying to figure it out myself. Without any instruments, what can I do to figure it out?

    If it is the bulb, would both sides stop working at the same time? (Or, it is designed so one is out and the other one stops too?)

    How much time would a dealer charge to replace it? Or, is this something I should try myself?

    Should I be concerned this is the beginning of some bigger electrical problem? (9 years, this is the 2nd problem - the first one was the environmental control system. Wish the software we have is this good :-))

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