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Comments
Lizzy
got the car in what seemed to be good shape, until one day the electric side mirrors stopped functioning along with the interior lights (front and back sets).
i consider myself pretty handy so i decided to take a look into this myself, turns out both items are on the same fuse (the only thing on that fuse, fyi), when i checked the fuse it looked fine, i put a continuity tester on it and i was right (the fuse wasn't blown), changed it anyway and nothing still.
so i got the haynes manual for this car and checked out the print for the car and all that, i checked the relay it went through and even swapped it out with the one for the horn to check the relay, nothing still. checked for voltage on the actual socket for the fuse and the relay and thats 12volts. i then went to the light itself and there was no voltage there or on the mirror switch.
from there i left it for lack of time and build up of aggravation. then a few days later the darndest thing happened, the door open light (on the instrument panel) stayed on when all doors were closed, then it went out after slamming them all shut a few times, now it wont go out at all.
then i realized that the fuse had blown for the rear wiper about 3-4 times randomly over the previous 2 weeks or so.
so in reading a post here i saw that someone mentioned that they had the entire wire harness to the wagon back door replaced by ford for about $600 bucks
to avoid going to the repair shop i tried to figure it out still and realized that all of the problems in some way were related to (or so i currently think) the back door wiring harness. i took the interior rear door panel off and found the rear liscence plate bulb terminals (and wires) had corroded, i cut and taped them individually and then ran out of time today.
thats where i am. oh and i replaced the fuse for the rear wiper and used it for a while today and it worked fine so far.
my next step would be to trace the wires back manually. any tips or ideas? sorry for the long winded rant, im just a bit frustrated currently and trying best to convey exactly whats going on.
thanks in advance for any help
Sorry that this reply is so late but I only searched this message board on May 18. Please look at my posts 226,229 under Ford Focus maintenance and repair. Whenever I pressed the brake pedal the trunk would unlock. It turned out to be a short. I suspect that you might have the same problem.
Piglover
When the AC has been on for like 20 minutes, the 20A fuse is blown.
I'm looking at the diagram, and there are 3 relays connected to that fuse.
It's something like that:
HOT AT ALL TIMES --> -- fuse 20AMP --->---- (goes through a power hold relay, which is turned on when the ignition is on) -----------> splits into 3:
1---> Engine Cooling Fan Relay -----> PCM ground
2---> High Speed Engine Cooling Fan Relay ----> PCM ground
3---> A/C Wide open Throttle (WOT) relay ---> PCM ground
So, I guess, when the PCM decides to activate one of those 3 relays, the fuse blows.
The fuse has never blown so far when the AC wasn't on (although it hasn't been too hot outside yet, like more than 25C)
I suspect the High Speed engine cooling Fan relay, what do you think?
I went to the dealer, and they, playing stupid, said that the fuse was connected to a few places, so they didn't know which one it was.. They charged me $200 to clean up the grounds and temporarily install a circuit breaker.. This didn't help though..
So, do you think it's a connection problem or a faulty relay?
Should I just try to remove that High Speed Engine Cooling Fan Relay?
i.e. the 20amp fuse wire was supposed to just control the relay (on/off), but instead, the relay fed it into driving the FAN..
The fan was supposed to be driven by wire with 50 AMP fuse.., but instead this wire was the one driving the relay......
gee, I wonder why a mechanic would put the wrong relay, without even looking whether the diagram on the relay matches on what's expected..
it was all on the relay, written very clearly, which wire does what... and the relay he/she put in was obvious some old one since it was all dirty and oily..
then I wonder.. for 2 hours, the ford mechanics couldn't figure this out? All they know is - connect to the computer, see if any codes and that's all.. no thinking at all..
cross your finger I'm right.. we'll see on Monday if this works out...
even if I'm right, I wonder why the relay had to be replaced in the first place? Any ideas?
Sky
Thanks!
When I put in the key and turn to on --- no gauges reads or when I start it.
Then I take the key out and try again and they read.
This happens all the time now. Read and then no read.
Did clean the battery terminals and tighten.
Checked the alt wiring and they are ok.
Any thoughts on this problem !!! please help...
I had the instrument cluster replaced. There were no problems, the first few days, except for the Over Drive Off indicator not functioning.
My mechanic says we need to find a new instrument cluster because they are different for each year. What do you think? --I have a rebuilt 2003 Focus ZX5.
I guess each year of the focus has a different I. Cluster, and if you get a used one, it has to be "programmed to your car." What do you think this means? Is there a trusted online junkyard storefront anyone knows about?
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems
Make/Models: FORD / FOCUS Model/Build Years: 2000-2001
Recall Number: 03V482000
Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, CONTAMINATION OF THE FILTER IN THE FUEL DELIVERY MODULE (FDM) CAN REDUCE, AND EVENTUALLY BLOCK, THE FLOW OF FUEL TO THE ENGINE.
Consequence:
THIS MAY CAUSE ENGINE HESITATION, LOSS OF POWER, SURGING, AND OTHER SIMILAR SYMPTOMS. OVER TIME, THE FILTER MAY BECOME SUFFICIENTLY BLOCKED TO CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
THIS ACTION IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN AND IS NOT BEING CONDUCTED UNDER THE SAFETY ACT. ALL OWNERS WILL BE NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM, AND DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FDM WITH A NEW DESIGN AT NO CHARGE IF THE OWNER REPORTS THAT THE VEHICLE EXHIBITS ANY OF THE IDENTIFIED SYMPTOMS. THE FREE REPLACEMENT WILL BE AVAILABLE FOR A PERIOD OF 10 YEARS FOLLOWING THE ORIGINAL PURCHASE OF THE VEHICLE, WITH NO MILEAGE LIMIT. OWNER NOTIFICATION IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING NOVEMBER 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT FORD AT 1-800-392-3673.
Notes:
FORD CAMPAIGN NO. 03N01. CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION¿S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
You may need to be very diligent in this issue. If they tell you the problem has to be 'replicated', this recall mentions NOTHING about that issue...just if the customer complains about the issue. Good luck! tcs
Synch will be standard on the SES and part of the SE upgrade packge.
Mark.
My electrical problems kicked in about 3 weeks ago.
When i accelerate from a stand still or punch the gas when i'm traveling at a slow speed, i hear 4 or 5 steady clicks from the fuse box under the dash, the lights dim along with the clicks, and on some occasion the battery light comes on and/or the gauges peg, then die, then come on again normally !! All this with the car running smooth as butter !
took it to a garage 3 days ago the mechanic changed the coil (which had several rusty cracks in it), telling me that his focus had a cracked coil which caused the gauge spiking. Well, $368.00
and 3 minutes after leaving the garage with an empty wallet.....click,click,click,click........but NO spiking !
i took it back right away, the mechanic got under the dash and checked the relays........one was hot and the other cool.
Seeing as both were identical he switched them around. the cool one was for the horn and the one running hot was the "voltage anti-discharge" relay....(direct translation from my French owner's manual)
It seemed to have worked but next day it was back to clicking and dimming. I'm going back monday to see what they can do.
I've read all of kartdevil's posts....he had the exact same problem
he went thru 9 alternators !!! before trading in for a new Focus.
i haven't check the battery terminals. Mechanic said the alt is charging fine.
Seems like more than a few people have this irritating problem.
If anyone has any light to shed here or has actually fixed the problem (permanently) PLEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAASE post
It will cost $800 to replace the faulty cables and
whatever else Ford wants to replace. Just limp the
car to your dealer. He'll know exactly what to do with it.
In about 2 years, you'll have to replace them again.
Sell your car now while you still can. More repairs will
come soon.
At least i know exactly what to tell the mechanic to look at.....hopefully it doesn't come with an $800 price tag.
i just got the car in April !! i'm gonna tough it out a little bit longer (hope it's the right decision)
how long did this problem take to find on your focus?
did you put in unnecessary parts (like i probably did) ??
I can't tell for sure what the problem on your car is since
it sounds bizzare. I did hear the relay on mine.
My car drives perfectly during and after the crazy dials and lights flicker and peg. Used to be triggered after I hit the O/D off button on the gear. Now it's happening anytime.
ANyone no what I should tell the dealer when I take it in?
I've recently bought a focus zetec. Seemed ok for a few months in summer, but since change in temperature, I've noticed some odd things.
1) When I press the brake pedal, the dash lights and main beam all dim slightly, and occasionally flicker, but only slightly.
2)Twice now, my drivers window has not worked (foot on brake pedal at times, not sure if relevant). After a few seconds, hey presto, it works again.
3)when I press down on wiper lever, the single sweep stops part way over and needs the lever to be constantly pressed in order to get it back into position. I tried pushing the lever in towards the steering column as there appears a small gap (couple of milimeters) between the top part of the level and the steering column connection.
I've heard that Focus' have a lot of electrical problems, and I'm beginning to wonder what I've let myself in for!!
Any ideas???
Mark
Water bottle was leaking into Floorboard
Transmissin
Steering belt
Alternator
Radio
Electrical With lights,rear hatch back latch
Idle pully
All due to faulty parts the dealer said!
I just put it back in today due Vibration on right turns. they said it looks like the CV joint on the transmission end.
I have a whole stack of work orders on the car! I will be trading it in as soon as warranty is up!!!!
I remembered a mechanic had showed me that disconnecting the positive lead will reset the computer and turn off warning lights..so I recommended to the guy working on the clicking noise to try disconnecting the positive lead. He did that and when reconnected the relay reset itself and NO PROBLEM anymore.
So...now I go back to my car to call the tow truck for my no start issue and before the guy tows my car away I ask him to disconnect the lead so my computer is reset before going into service. (why is a longer story). Anyhow boom. He disconnects the positive lead, resets the computer...and the car starts repeatedly without a problem.
Sounds wierd...but try it.