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At the back the same bulb is also the break, the break light work but not the side light.
the bulbs are good (checked), front and back. any thoughts
Also, changing a stop light bulb in no way had anything to do with your other problems, just bad timing.
My passenger side and rear lights would not work in my 2000 focus estate,checked fuse,blown. replaced and again blew. plugged out connecter in boot for lights , front lights both sides came on. next i plugged back in large brown connecter .Now both sides have stopped working and fuses have not blown and bulbs seem to be ok. removed licence plate lights and noticed they were very wet inside . Dont know what to do next. Hope someone can help. thanks.
OK, it's been awhile but I may be able to help. To test your bulbs use an ohm meter.( you can find a small-cheap volt-amp--ohm tester at Sears, Auto Zone, or anyplace like this ) see if you can pass current through each bulb with your ohm tester, if you don't get a reading you have a bad bulb. Now back to wet lic plate bulbs. Are the sockets clean (with bulb removed) or corroded ? they must be clean.
as for water getting in, it can come in around trunk handle, around light lens. take out the lic lifht bulbs and see if other lights work. FLASHBACK I was working at a Ford dealer in 99-00 and we had a recall on 00 Focus to replace the wiring loom that goes to yhe lic lights,they would short out & cause havic. The connector is located in the trunk, on the L.side high up under the back glass. unplug it there and see if you can get your other lights working. If they work with that loom disconnected, go to a Ford dealer and see if this recall is outstanding.If it has been done. Thank them and see if you can find 1 at a bone yard.Get a 4 ft chunk of mechanics wire, take your old loom loose in the trunk, hook the wire to the old loom and pull it out from the L top corner of trunk lid. Tape wire to new loom, spray down with soap water and pull back through trunk lid with mech wire and reconnect to connector. hope this helps. Cliff
developed electrical faults as follows: rear and number plate lights don't work
at all; parking lights and side lights don't come on when the light switch is
moved to their respective position; the warning buzzer that sounds when the
lights are left switch on doesn't sound; and the instrument panel illumination
doesn't come on. All the other lights work OK (headlamps -low and high beam-,
indicators, break, fog and reverse lights, interior lights) and the screen wipers
work OK (including intermittent mode). The horn works OK and all the warning
lights in the instrument panel come up as expected. The fuses appear to be OK
in both the engine fuse box and the central fuse box. Any ideas?
I did check the power to the brake switch, the switch is good.
What could be the problem?
Thanks in advance,
get a cheap digital volt meter, test battery voltage, should be about 12.5 or better. next make sure BOTH ends of battery cables are CLEAN & TIGHT. Next have another person turn key to start pos while you read for 12 volts at small wire at starter relay. this relay may be mounted to the inner fender well or it may be mounted to the starter.If you have 12 volts on big red cable at the starter and the small wire has 12 volts with key in start pos, and nothing happens, replace starter. If no voltage on small wire, this could be 1. ign switch 2. neutral start switch if auto trans or 3. clutch depress
switch if standard shift. Hope this helps. Cliff.
this switch has a plunger that is not returning all the way out when door is closed. This switch was available for 2000 modles so I would think it still should be for 2005. Sometimes they could be an SOB to replace, getting your hand at the right angle and still be able to turn it to get it out and then reverse. It goes into a mounting hole in the latch then you must turn it to lock it in. If it;s a 4 dr. a computer scanner can tell you which door latch is the bad one. Hope this helps, Cliff
Do this testing with a 12 volt test light.
I have checked the bulbs and the fuses and they all appear to be good. I've checked over the headlight switch and the direction signal switch and they appear to be ok, but its possible I missed something.
Any ideas on what could be wrong are appreciated!
I haven't had a chance yet to go over the grounds, however from what I recall, I think they were ok. I will have to check to make sure once I'm off work.
A mechanic suggested I disconnect the main radio fuse, plus the instrument cluster/radio fuse. However, he told me to put the cluster one back in if I experienced any driving/shifting problems because of the cluster's effect on this. But I've had both fuses out since, and no battery death.
I have a 04 focus zx3 133,000 mi. when driving the car after it has warmed up the radio will turn off along with dash lights for a sec or two sometimes loss of power to engine. when this happens i can hear a relay clicking up under the left side of dash. also sometimes when trying to start the car there is no power to anything. the alternator is good and battery is new. any help would be appreciated!"
I have had similar intermittent problems with a 2002 Focus ZX5 where I hear the clicking under the dash, and once turned the car off, and then attempted to turn on - but no power (even radio memory lost). Waited a couple of minutes, then turned motor on, clicking returned but when I turned on headlamps, engine promptly died. Started back up after turning the key. Got home, no clicking no dying when turning lights on. ??????? What's the clicking, etc.
But, I just noticed that my front right bright filament is out in this car. Is this related to the below problem?
Orignal post:, I just joined edmunds after reading your reply to this problem:
"I have a 04 focus zx3 133,000 mi. when driving the car after it has warmed up the radio will turn off along with dash lights for a sec or two sometimes loss of power to engine. when this happens i can hear a relay clicking up under the left side of dash. also sometimes when trying to start the car there is no power to anything. the alternator is good and battery is new. any help would be appreciated!"
Clarkejoe: I have had similar intermittent problems with a 2002 Focus ZX5 where I hear the clicking under the dash, and once turned the car off, and then attempted to turn on - but no power (even radio memory lost). Waited a couple of minutes, then turned motor on, clicking returned but when I turned on headlamps, engine promptly died. Started back up after turning the key. Got home, no clicking no dying when turning lights on. ??????? What's the clicking, etc.
It's has been 1 year and the problem has never came back. It cost zero dollars to fix this issue. Thanks to the old Ford Mechanic.
the car is made by ford and is a piece of under engineered crap
tried to have it fixed several places and tried to fix it myself also I got rid of the piece of wallet sucking undependable junk and got a toyota It was my 1st [non-permissible content removed] car 2 years later just change oil and put in gas and it keeps going
see when your an adult with kids you need dependability
another problem with the wonder six disc cd change junk and 600 for new one from ford and o yeah all my cd's were stuck inside nice huh car only had 20,000 miles on it
get ready for a leaking windshield when it rains and its not the windshield seal
guy at ford said they had problems with water coming in the heater inlet and I said "your telling me" started shifting like crap too (automatic trans.) good luck
2. if so batt muct be dry and CLEAN, Cables & Posts clean & TIGHT at BOTH ends. 3. If #2 is good, disconnect neg cable, put a digital volt-amp meter between post & cable end, set on the 10 amp setting,key out,doors and ALL lifgts & acc OFF. read meter, if over 0.5 TO 0.75 amp draw, start removing fuses 1 at a time until amp reading falls back, when it does, you have found the bad circuit Repair that circuit and you have repaired your battery draw.
Hope this helps.