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Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems

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Comments

  • g2bg2b Posts: 7
    I had a problem with the fuse for the headlight switch (f32)blowing. Cuts power to the running lights and instrument lights. replaced headlight switch assembly (includes relay) and problem seems to be fixed. :)
  • g2bg2b Posts: 7
    Headlight switch did not fix the problem. Blew the fuse again. :confuse:
  • robnor1robnor1 Posts: 12
    My daughter has owned an 04 ZTS for a couple years now. Several months ago the car started bucking or missing every now and then. She says while this is happening there is a clicking noise coming from left front dash, probably the fuse/relay box and the radio cuts off. This only happens maybe a couple times a month for about 20 or 30 seconds. She says it feels like the car is going to quit. After the surging stops, the car runs perfect for the next week or two. I have driven the car each time after this happens and I can never re-create the problem. Any ideas?
  • I had a similar problem that I battled for months, intermittently the lights, radio would go off for a second or two and the lights on the dash would all light. I was cleaned up all the ground connections under the hood including the battery and problem has went away. Knock on wood.

    Steve
  • Yesterday I was rear ended, not any apparent physical damage. That night it was noticed that the tail lights (running and parking) and license plate lights were not working. All other lights (headlights, dash, directionals, etc) were working o.k.

    I replaced all of the bulbs for the running lights and license plate lights. Still did not work. All the fuses were fine.

    Not sure what to do next? Would appreciate any suggestions. Keep it relatively simple... I do not have a lot of auto electrical experience...

    Thanks in advance
  • TRY THIS;
    1. get a 12 volt tist light. Hook the ground clip to a good clean metal ground, touch the other end to BOTH sides of the fuses w/the park lights on. If only 1 side of fuse lights the test light you have a bad fuse.If all fuses ck ok go to next step.
    2. Remove rear bulbs.ground clamp end of test light again to a GOOD body ground. now touch other end to bulb sockets contacts (w/park lights on) and one contact should light test light, if no light follow wiring to plug in connector, poss-under L.R. corner of car. Unplug and ck for a hot wire there w/test light.
    3. If you have power at light sockets,ground the test light to the other contact in socket,may need to use a paper clip to get into bulb socket, if your fuses are good,WITH TEST LIGHT, my money is on a bad ground.
    4. Do this and send a note to let me know what you found
    Cliff
  • I have a 2000 Focus SE wagon that my daughter drives. She said recently, the dash lights will go out completely with no warning or seeming cause. And then they come back. She said sometimes, turning the lights off and on several times brings them back.

    Any ideas? :confuse:

    Thanks.
  • markus5markus5 Posts: 102
    It is the rheostat in the switch a very common malady. I have had rheostats in cars do this often. The environment that the car exists in is very difficult. In your case 9-10 years is about right for failures to be evident. It should not be expensive to fix. :)
  • Might also want to try spraying the rheostats with contact cleaner, which is available through Radio Shack or Frys. I had simular issue on the radio volume control and was able to fix it with contact cleaner. Also check the the connector for loose wires.

    FORD
    Fix Or Repair Daily

    Steve
  • Okay, now I am going to sound like a complete idiot in public *bow*

    You mean spray the outside of it (like where you toggle it) and roll it back and forth to work it in? Or take the panel off and spray something in there?
  • Spraying into the the device is the best,
  • g2bg2b Posts: 7
    After reading the problems associated with lights not working and suspect grounding issues, i thought it would be wise to look there.

    visually the battery connections looked good(no corrosion). Cleaned the connection to the auxillary ground wires to the negative post, loosing them and cleaning the ring terminal with a wire brush. I then looked for the chassis grounds. there were two wires with ring terminals (grounds) attached to the inner fender close to the battery but under the air cleaner box. I cleaned these using the same method. The headlight fuse has not blown since, it has been a week.
  • bwa01bwa01 Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2000 focus in the last year my signal lights and hazard lights stop working from time to time, well they have not started working again and my inspections up in 2 weeks. Could it be the relay switch and if so does the one relay conrol both the signal lights and flasher?
  • bwa01bwa01 Posts: 2
    and I forgot, if so where is this flasher relay excate location?
  • Recently, my 2005 Focus SE died on me while I was out-of-town. It acted like it was a bad alternator when it conked out. The garage said the alternator was not charging, but when they got a new one from the parts store, THAT one didn't charge either. Finally, they got another to charge and I went on my way - $634 lighter.

    This was the third time in about seven months I've had an auto-electric issue with this car. First time, the car wouldn't start and it appeared my battery was just bad. Atlernator tested fine, but this seemed odd.

    About a month later, the car died again while I was driving. Couldn't find a problem, but the dealer said there was a blown fuse that caused the anti-theft function to lock-up. They also said there was a wire loose, but the evidence showed THEY had fouled that up. Last time I'm going to them.

    Anyway, three instances since last summer. Very odd. I recently talked to a buddy who had similar problems. He said it turned out his idiot light had a short in it, and was causing his issues. He had the light and the whole circuit replaced and has had no more problems. When I think back, NO IDIOT LIGHTS HAVE COME ON!!!! This could be the problem with this car, and I'm going to have that checked out.

    Has anyone else here heard of this? Sounds plausible.
  • gaborsgabors Posts: 5
    Hi!I'm really -really need some help.after years....My battery get discharged every second or third times during the night.does not idleing well, sometimes the engine cut off on low rpm.The headlight blinking,if its on,the vent rpm. changeing always.Changed battery,and alternator ,did not help!I took to the local dealer after a long time they could not find the problem.tryed other forums but notthing happened.Please help!Thank you for your effort!......Gabe
  • Have the GEM module checked! the GEM module controls all the electrical devices in your car as well as the lights in your dash, heating ect. when these go bad all kinds of problems happen!. You will be happy to know, that you can change this module yourself its not a hard job. GOOD LUCK!
  • gaborsgabors Posts: 5
    Thank you for the respond!Is the GEM still under current even if i turn it the key off?I asking because the battery get die sometimes if i live it the car for a few hours.something has to pull it the current bad and fast(sometimes just 1-2 hours enought to kill the battery)even if notthing is "ON" .Thank you!..........Gabe.
  • Info only, The GEM is a ( generic electronic module ) that only supplies the ground to many electrical items in your car but not all items.
    To find a short that would drain a battery in 2 hrs, do the following, disconnect the batt ground from the batt, if you have access to an amp meter (not volt meter) connect it in series between the neg batt post and the neg cable, unplug under hood light if you have 1 . every thing turned off and doors closed, your amp meter should not read over 0.5 or 1/2 amp. If it going to run the battery down in 2 hrs it will arc like a welding cable,if it does arc,start taking out fuses 1 at a time and test cable for arc, if strong arc still remains after all fuses removed, then remove the pos red wire from the alt and test for arc at neg post again, You may also have a fuse box under the hood with high amp fuses in it. If you do start there. let me know what you find. Cliff
  • gaborsgabors Posts: 5
    Thank you Cliff!Look like on the weekend i gonna have time to do it!I keep it post!
  • gaborsgabors Posts: 5
    Hey!Can i use those popular digital multimeters(cost about 10$-15$) is it gonna do the same job ?Thanks!
  • If i used the multimeter well,the drainage is 2.5 amp .After i pulled out all the fuses and relay (motor side,passenger side) the only change was at the main power sup. (#7)fuse ,droped to 1.2 amp.when i pulled out.Look like the alternator?Could i get a bad one when i changed the alternator last time?Thank you guys!
  • You bet you could have a bad alt. Disconnect the red batt wire from the alt, and check your drain at the battery. If you have a draw of 2.5 AMPS that will draw out 25 Amps in 10 hrs. now you see how fast a batt runs down. You should not have over 1/2 AMP draw. Make sure your key is in your pocket, all doors closed,and hood light bulb disconnected.
  • terryxbterryxb Posts: 2
    Well, my brakes lights stay on whenever they feel like it. Most of the the time they get stuck on after 30 minutes or so. This is only when car is running and in gear ( auto trans ) Will not do it if car is in park or ignition key on. Only when engine is running. It did happen one time after 10 minutes of driving, but only once.This started about two months ago, at that time I started replacing parts. I've read every single post involving the brakelight/hazard problem. I've also read literally 100's on other forums with no resolution. The 2000-01 Focus is the only year that uses the hazard switch to also work the brake lights, tails only not the 3rd brake light. I the stop light switch twice, no change. I have used three different hazard switches, problem returns no matter which one I use. One is factory original, one less then a year old, and one brand new. All are Ford parts, no aftermarket. So those two items are fine. I completely disassembled all the rear wiring and cleaned all contacts and grounds, no change. Not a fuse problem because I do have working brake lights most of the time. Check wiring going into hatch, peeled back rubber boot and repaired any exposed wires. This is quite common in the Focus hatch, so that's the first thing I did. No change. The directionals will flash when lights are stuck on until last night. I went for a 30-40 minute ride and the lights got stuck. I can see the glow from my side mirrors, of course only at night. I never know during the day. The only way to shut them off is to unplug the hazard switch, but that's only cutting the power source. If I wait for 15-20 minutes and plug it back in they will stay off. The switch does get warm but that's because the lights are on, it stays cool when lights not stuck. Back to last night. When I got the car home I put it in neutral and tried the turn signals. I put the right turn on and the left side was blinking. WTF ! I got out and checked, the lights were flashing like a school bus. Each side flashing opposite of the other. Is something heating up after awhile ? I have no clue. This year Focus does not have a separate flasher unit that I could try. It's all through the hazard switch.
    New stop light switch(2)=nothing
    New hazard switch(3)=nothing
    Hatch wiring repaired=nothing
    New multifunction switch=nothing
    All fuses good
  • chirpschirps Posts: 3
    Okay, here's the problem. I purchased a 2003 Focus wagon in FL and drove it back to NY. As I drove up, no problems except a bad tire. I never stopped for more than three hours and never had a problem starting up the car. I get back to NY and park in the street overnight, the next morning I had some difficulty starting the car, real slow turning over like a weak battery. It kicked over and I pulled it into the driveway (running a little rough). Three days later I came back and it barely started. I ran it highway speed for about 45 min. When I arrived home, it started up no problem. It sits for two days, and today it turned over very weakly and didn't start. The battery is 3 yo (8/06) and is presently charging in the basement. What steps should I take to diagnose the problem, i.e. what are the likely problems and what order should I proceed in.

    I was thinking
    1) Charge battery overnight / take it to a local shop to have them check it, replace if necessary.
    2) Since the battery is only 3 years old it seems unlikely that the battery is the only problem. Once I check / replace the battery, I should check the charging system. If the charging system isn't the problem, then I can narrow it down to a bad battery / short in wiring.
    3) If the charging system is bad, the culprit is either the alternator or the wiring. I can remove the alternator and have them check it. If the alternator checks OK then it must be wiring from the alternator to batt.

    What I'm trying to do is avoid replacing the battery & having the "new" battery die like the old one and like others have had on this thread. Tips, Tricks?

    Thanks in advance
    Sam
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    AFTER U CHARGE BATTERY, hAVE IT LOAD TESTED, IT SHOULD HOLD 9.6VOLTS FOR 15 SEC. WHEN LOADED TO 1/2 THE RATED CAP. OF THE BATTERY. A BATTERY THAT IS 3 YEARS OLD COULD WELL BE BAD IF IT WAS A CHEAP BATT TO BEGIN WITH. MAKE SURE YOUR CABLES ARE ( CLEAN AND TIGHT ON BOTH ENDS.
  • chirpschirps Posts: 3
    okay, suppose the battery is bad. I presume you mean check the cables on the alternator side and the positive battery terminal + negative battery terminal + negative ground are tight. Once these are tight, should I just assume the alternator is okay? Any tips for further testing to make sure the new battery doesn't get killed by some other fluke in the system? I'll post after I get results back from the battery test. Just to add the battery is a Diehard Gold. Personally I like interstate MT.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    A diehard gold should be good, after u have a known good battery installed,to test the alt, get a digital volt meter. your alt should put out 14.2 volts at 1000 rpm with your lights,heater,and wipers on, or pretty close to 14 volts. if it does that then your alt is ok. let me know what u find.
  • chirpschirps Posts: 3
    Turned out to be a bad battery after all. Put in a new battery and everything seems to be ok. There is one other small problem. As I turn the wheel (more pronounced with lower speeds), as it moves back to center there's a little back and forth movement that I feel. Tie-rods? Ball Joints? Axles? Any tips on how to diag. would be great.
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    HOW MANY MILES ON YOUR CAR? TO TEST TIE RODS, JACK UP 1 FT WHEEL , GRAB THE TIRE AT THE FRONT & BACK AND ROCK IT BACK & FORTH. IF U HAVE ANY PLAY,HAVE SOMEONE ROCK THE WHEEL WHILE U LOOK AT THE TIE-ROD END FOR PLAY.( TO REPLACE,REMOVE COTTER KEY,THEN NUT, THEN LOOSEN JAM NUT ON TIE-ROD.NOW SMACK THE DOG-P--- OUT OF THE SPINDLE WHERE THE TIE ROD GOES THROUGH IT. IT WILL POP LOOSE, COUNT THE # OF TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE OLD END AND REINSTALL NEW ONE THE SAME # OF TURNS -- ABOUT A 10 MIN. JOB )
    DO THE SAME WITH THE OTHER FT.WHEEL.
    GOOD LUUCK-LET ME KNOW
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