Toyota Land Cruiser

steelcruiser · January 2005

ARB makes air lockers that seem to be the main choice for after market installation on LCs. You're probably talking at least $2500 installed--factory lockers would be quite a bit more as the axle housings are differnt for the locker v. non-locker.

Unless you REALLY think you're going to need them, suggest you add some suspension/tire mods then see how it goes.

dewright · January 2005

A few months ago I posted that I was considering buying a 96-97 TLC. Well I bought a 97 from the local dealer. The miles were good (just under 100,000) and everything seemed to be in good shape.

I have gone back through a lot of the posts related to the FJ-80 and have copied and pasted them to a Word Document, so I feel pretty comfortable knowing what to look for in terms of future problems. The dealer also offered the car with a 2-month / 2,000-mile warranty, and with a month or so left, I am planning on taking it back in to get some things looked at.

I do have some questions that if anyone can provide answers for, I would be most appreciative:

1. The owner's manual says that I only need to let the engine warm-up for 10 seconds in non-freezing weather. I let it warm up for roughly 3 minutes anyway, but I have noticed that the transmission hesitates to shift from 3rd gear to 4th gear when I am in the 40-MPH range UNTIL THE ENGINE HAS WARMED UP ALMOST TO "NORMAL" TEMPS! Up before the shift point, the engine RPMS run almost as high as 2,500 RPM when normal shifting from 3rd to 4th in that MPH range takes place before 2,000 RPM. In terms of strategy, i.e., dealing with the dealer and what is essentially an unlimited warranty, what do you think I should do? Any idea what the problem may be? (When the car is "warmed up" to the middle level of the temp gauge, it shifts fine.)

2. My serpentine belt (I am calling it that because that is what it looks like at the front part of the engine) is squeaking significantly. The quality of the belt looks quite new actually, and I have heard bad things about using belt dressing, as supposedly it tends to hasten the belt's wear. Any idea of what may be causing it? What remedies do you think I should / could seek from the dealer?

3. I bought the car with 265/70/16 tires, not the recommended 275s. I noticed at a radar trailer that we have around town that my speedometer was 4 mph BELOW what the posted speed on the radar trailer readout was. Does that sound right, and are there any potential risks to running the 265s? The wheels are stock TLC wheels. I plan on getting the 275s in roughly 10-15,000 miles unless something necessitates an earlier purchase.

4. The "Check Engine" light came on soon after I took possession of the vehicle, and I took it in and got it fixed under the warranty. They replaced two oxygen-related sensors but said that the light remained on. Then they said that they cleaned out the throttle body and it turned off. Does that sound right?

Do you think that I have any recourse concerning the first two questions?

Again, thanks for any help!

steelcruiser · January 2005

1. The "late" shifting relates to controlling emissions before the engine has reached operating temps. It's not a problem. And you can save some gas by gently driving after a short warmup. You don't need to wait 3 minutes. You note that once the engine is warm shifting is all right.

2. Sounds like you just need to have the belt tension checked.

3. The 265 tires are slightly less in diameter than the 275s and will result in a small variance between actual speed and what your speedo says.

4. I think the oxygen sensor replacement was probably a warranty item. I believe there have been some cat warranty replacments on the 80 series. Don't know what realtionship the throttle body cleaning has to the check engine light, but.....maybe they forgot to reset the light the first time and reset it after cleaning the throttle body.

Based on the limited info you've provided here, it sounds like the dealer has been responsive to your concerns in the past. Suggest you go over the items that you've noted here with them and see how they respond.

I don't think you've got any thing major going on or any reason to be worried. Seems like some minor tweaks are all you need.

dewright · January 2005

Thank you very much for your quick response. In regards to the late shifting, for the most part I have been driving rather gently once I get near that 40 mph mark so I don't rev above 2,000. It's just that on a couple of occasions I have had to speed up quickly and took notice of it.

I am pretty impressed with the vehicle so far -- also some of the technology that is in it (I'm not really into new cars so things like VSC and traction control go way over my head).

What is your take on using the "Power" button? I know what it does, but I can't figure out why the vehicle has it. Also, even though I am in NC, I am eagerly waiting for some snow to drive in. Does the "2nd" button really need to be used in snow since the vehicle has full-time 4WD?

Again, thanks.

95_tlc · January 2005

Sorry for asking this question which I am sure has been covered many times before, but I was wondering what the largest tire is that will fit on an 80 without a lift. I have no extra accessories on the vehicle adding weight to the suspension (brush guard, winch, etc.).

Thank You

steelcruiser · January 2005

Re: power button. There may be times--towing--that you'd like to "hold" the shift a little longer. The 2nd gear start is useful in ice etc. The manual suggests or recommends using it when you are in low traction situations so that you don't spin the tires and perhaps lose control. I'm sure that you'll develop your own driving style for various conditions as you become more familiar with the LC and its capabilities. Sometimes finesse trumps brute force

Re: tire sizes with stock suspension 285/75/16 tires will fit and shouldn't rub. Not sure about 295, 305. Some lift is probably a good idea for anything larger than 285.

HTH

vavavavolvo · January 2005

It pains me to watch the nightly news. Today's had multiple pictures of the Governer of Bagdhad's white TLC riddled with bullet holes and spattered with blood. This must be the tenth picture of a TLC I've seen shot-up on the news about Iraq. Interesting thing about this one was that it was equipped with split rear doors that open from the middle (like some Suburbans and Tahoes) instead of the rear hatch. I wonder if this is a special order item or if it is stock in some countries.

grantchstr · January 2005

I would have thought the essential "special order" would be an armor-plated TLC (with armored windows as well) for high value "targets" in that part of the world. A common-or-garden TLC is as about as safe as the US troopers Humvees.

murphy4 · January 2005

for a new Land Cruiser. Any idea what the future holds??

selong · January 2005

My 2004 TLC has developed a rattle when it goes over bumps. I can't pinpoint the exact location, but it sounds like it's from the windshield or the dashboard. And it happens only when it is cold, when the temperature drops below 40 F. It goes away when it's warmer. Has anybody here experienced this problem? Many thanks.

flyfish4life · January 2005

There have been several posts on the dash rattle and it also crosses over other Toyota lines including mine, the Sequoia. Do a search on dash rattle and there are several discussions. Aside from experimenting with small foam inserts, I would take to your dealer, but you know how those trips are "we never heard it, sir", etc.

wintercruisr · January 2005

Hi folks,

I need some help here. I have a 2000 LC I bought for $27,000 in May 03 with 50,000 miles. I have 76,000 on it now. It's a great vehicle. I live and work in town and when I leave town it's on a motorcycle or a plane. So I drive the beast to the post office, grocery store, etc. Put some work related miles on it too. I don't have kids but have a large pooch who loves it. I like to hit dirt roads, logging roads, powerlines, etc here in VT on weekends and use it in the snow, like today! It'll be paid for in a few months. Last month's gas bill was $275.

Am considering: a) keeping it forever, getting an around town car, like a used Toyota Matrix, Honda CR-V, etc, or b) selling LC and getting new 250hp Subie outback.

Problem is, I hate to get rid of such a great vehicle, but don't really need two. I know, good problem to have.

I you have any opinions, would like to hear em!

BTW-had serpentine belt replaced today ($90) and mentioned to mechanic my lousy (12mpg) mileage..he thinks I over-oiled K and N filter and mass air flow sensor is gunked up, giving poor fuel mileage. Sound plausible? Thanks for any thoughts here too.

selong · January 2005

Thanks for your reply. I checked the Sequoia forum. Sounds like the rattle on Sequoia is caused by a faulty hood hinge. Is it the case for TLC too? Anyway, I will take it to my dealer when this becomes unbearable or when the next service comes up (whichever is sooner

). I just hope my truck will cooperate enough to rattle when it's in their hands.

grantchstr · January 2005

I bought an Fj80 pretty much as soon as the Fj80 was introduced in 1990. Its a great truck for a dog (and kids) by the way! I am having a contest with it to see who will last the longest, me or the LC - I expect the LC will win. Does that help?

Only today I was on the Freeway and noticed the BMW SUVs, MB SUVs and Porche Cayennes and how FAKE they and presumably their drivers are. These folks are all just imitating the REAL DEAL.

seattlecruiser · January 2005

I was in a similar situation, just the other way around: We already had two vehicles (Beetle convertible and Volvo S70). I really wanted a Land Cruiser for longer trips, skiing, and maybe a little bit of off-roading. Decision was should I sell the S70 to replace with the LC, or keep it. I decided to keep it for driving around town and commuting for its great gas mileage (and terrible trade-in value). While my wife had a bit of a problem owning three vehicles with only two drivers in the house, it has been working out great. Plus the LC will probably last forever with the low miles we're putting on it.

BTW, the gas mileage you're getting seems pretty low to me. While my mpg (also 2000 model, 65k) has dropped slightly along with the temperatures, I rarely get fewer than 15 mpg around town. I get as much as 19 on longer trips. I'm driving it softly, though.

kblc · January 2005

Greetings. I recently purchased a '92 TLC that didn't have the owner's manual. I have NO understanding of engaging the 4WD system. It has, on the gear shift knob H-N-L. It appears to be always in the H position. To pull it to N, I have to put the vehicle in park and then when I move it to N, a light comes on that reads A/T P. Can anyone offer me assistance? Thank you very much.

steelcruiser · January 2005

The LC is full time 4 WD. You have to be in P to engage the Lo range, which also locks the center differential.

larry o · January 2005

New the the LC family.....finally. Bought an 03 with 12,500 miles. Love it. One thing - there are a couple of sounds coming from dashboard. One is behind glove compartment - sounds like a wife cap bagging against someting....should be easy to fix. The other is a bit more of a plastic sound coming from on top or behinds the nav system. Any ideas/suggestions? Anybody go though the same thing? thx

larry o · January 2005

The above should be wire cap, not wife cap.....thx

stever · January 2005

While you cannot rewrite history, you have 30 minutes to make any edits after you post a message. Simply click on the Edit link that appears with your message after you post it.

Steve, Host

tlcman · January 2005

your Land Cruiser is equiped with a two speed transfer-case. Great for off roading, and in my opinion its a must have in order to make a SUV what it is.

Pull down your driverside sun visor and its all discribed there for you

H- is High, good for on road and most all conditions, and will duns all four tyres with the center differential unlocked (open).

N- Nutral Switch gears only while in park or put the tranny in N and set the parking brake

L- Low, this is for off roading or very low traction surfaces. The Low function will automaticly lock the center differential spliting power 50-50 front and rear.

A/T P light and DIFF LOCK light will come on as will as Anti lock brakes light i cant rememeber. This is supose to happen, nothing to be worried about.

Word of advice, never use Low on the street or any high traction area, it will damage your center differental as well as rub your tyres alot. Use it only in mud or off road.

ironside7 · January 2005

I have a 98 TLC and have been living with the temperature-dependent rattle noise for two years now, but the recent messages on this topic have motivated me to find an answer. In researching this issue on other Toyota boards, it appears that the RAV4 is well known as having precisely the same type of rattle noise that many of us have been experiencing (there was even a TSB issued). Apparently, the noise on the RAV4s is caused by certain structures associated with the wiper cowl contacting the windshield. The links below have a nice description of the problem/fix (with pictures). Hopefully, the fix isn't much different for the TLC. I'm trying it this weekend and will post the results here.

http://members.tripod.com/ri_rav4/rattle.htm

http://members.tripod.com/ri_rav4/rattle_tsb.htm

-Ironside

mobiweld · January 2005

Lose the K&N filter.

halcyondays · January 2005

I don't know if this subject has been discussed. If so, please accept my apologies and I hope you will reopen it.

On a recent trip that included driving through far NE California, our AM radio reception was really hurt by ignition interference. It was just like years ago. I wonder if there is anything I can do about that. In the old days I would have gone to resistor plugs and changed the high tension wires but I don't know what to do here. I am afraid to get at all frisky, partly because the computer intimidates me.

We don't think it is worth upgrading the radio but is there anything in the way of an ignition oriented fix in this day and age?

toc · January 2005

I own a 2000 TLC which I got it brand new. It has 76,000 miles on it. I had a major maintenance with replacement on timing and outer belts, and part of the exhaust system less than 3 months ago at a local toyota dealer. Soon after this event, a continuing buzzing noise occurs when I pull up the hand break with an intact ignition key, with and without the engine being on/off. The dealer did not know what has gone wrong with it when I brought in to be checked. In addition, the engine-check sign went on a couple days ago when I was going to drive my car to work. I don't think this should happen as I just had a major maintainence. In addition, this truck only has 76,000 miles on it.

any idea and input is very much appreciated, thank you.

mobiweld · January 2005

Sounds like something didn't get put back together correctly. If it's something related to the work they performed, then they should do right by their work. If it's something unrelated and just by dumb-luck somthing goes sideways right after a major service, then I think it falls into the sh*t happens category. Clearly somthings not right.

bcb1 · January 2005

It's about time to replace my wife's car; and I'm about 99% sure that I want to get her a Land Cruiser - probably a 98 or 99 model year.

The other choice was a used Mercedes ML320; but the reliability was definitely a concern with the ML320. In order to reasonably afford the Land Cruiser (I'm trying not to spend more than about $18-$19K) - I'm looking at buying one with about 80K+ miles; perhaps even closer to 100K miles.

Anybody that could give advice on specific model years (98 or up) - dos and don'ts - stuff to look out for - where to buy (dealer versus private party) - maintenance or repair hassles - etc; I'd greatly appreciate it.

steenh1 · January 2005

BCB, 1-1/2 yrs ago I bought a 99 with 80k miles... trouble free ever since and just passed 100k. I bought private, but only because they had kept all maintenance records. Ironically, you are more likely to get those records from private than from dealer. With the dealer, you normally get the advantage of a full check and repair of major problems... and a short warranty. Maintenance is pretty simple and not all that expensive... especially if you can do some yourself like changing Dif Fluid, oil etc...

The one expense I got hit with was the timing belt at 90k which if I remember right was about $500-$600. You should ask if that has been done since the mileage you are looking at is right about the mileage that requires the timing belt change.

Other than that, I think you'll be very pleased. I was so pleased I got another one, a 97 to play in the woods and mud.

Good luck.

seattlecruiser · January 2005

I used to have an ML320, got it new in late 99. It was on a lease and I couldn't wait to put it back on the dealer's lot when the lease was up. I called it the Chrysler M-Class, 'nuf said.

I got a 2000 LC in July, private party, with all records. I would take a private party, original owner with records over dealer any day. With the dealer you have no idea where the vehicle is coming from, most are from wholesale auctions, and who knows what it looked like before the mechanics and detailing people got their hands on it. I don't ever believe the "it's a trade-in, I know the previous owner personally" line. If you run a Carfax report on that "local" trade-in, more often than not it was listed at an out-of-state auction just a few weeks earlier. That's probably why they never show you service records, you would be able to tell that the car was registered somewhere across the country before.

In my case, after looking at the records, I called the dealership where the previous owner had it serviced. He always brought it to the same place, so they knew the vehicle since it was new and were able to tell me from their records that I'd be hard pressed to find a better maintained vehicle. Great if you can find one that has had the 60/90/120 K service done recently, I hear they can run over $1,000.

wintercruisr · January 2005

Hi folks, I'm going to sell my 2000 Landcruiser with 77k miles, good condition, for a smaller vehicle.

Dealers are offering $19K in trade. Seems to me that a 2000 LC in good condition might sell for around $24-26,000 in a private sale. I paid $28k in May 2003, 50k miles, at auction (local used car dealer got it for me).

Questions for anybody that has sold an LC: what kind of price did you ask and what did you get, and, was there much interest in the vehicle? I'm not in Greenwich, CT where the LC is probably in demand..here in Vermont most people are driving Subarus.

Last question, do you think there is better or worse time of year to sell the cruiser? Thanks again for any responses!

tidester · January 2005

Here's a good place to start: How to sell your car.

This might be helpful also: TMV new car prices, used car pricing, used car values at Edmunds

tidester, host

grantchstr · January 2005

Wintercruiser - you will have to change your name now pal - did you get a report done on your LC when you bought it or in other words are those genuine miles?

seattlecruiser · January 2005

Ha! I can second that Subaru comment for the Pacific Northwest. Must be something about liberals liking those Subarus. Somebody ought to do a study on that.

Conventional wisdom has it that SUVs sell better in the winter. I personally can't say that I have seen much of a difference in how long they stay on the market between summer and winter, or in price for that matter. The one problem a private seller will always face when selling a used vehicle like an LC is that the stars have to align perfectly. It has to be a cash buyer, for most banks will not finance a private party sale. And then the buyer has to be willing to pay as much for a 4-5 year old LC as he would for a brand new (albeit lesser) vehicle like an Explorer, which comes with low financing, factory warranty, and so on. I never sold one, but I know from the perspective of a buyer and watching private party listings being up for months on Autotrader that there aren't many buyers who fit that mold. If your car has a clean record (check your own Carfax if you didn't do it when you bought it yourself), then I would recommend pointing that out in the listing. If it qualifies for the Carfax warranty, point that out as well. Extended warranties that are transferable also seem to be attractive to private party buyers. Like I said in an earlier posting, if you have service records then that can be an advantage over dealer listings as well. And you'll want to make sure that yours is quite a bit lower in price than any dealer listing (and preferably other comparable private party listings as well).

grantchstr · January 2005

Quote;

The one problem a private seller will always face when selling a used vehicle like an LC is that the stars have to align perfectly. It has to be a cash buyer, for most banks will not finance a private party sale.

Unquote

A further point on financing, its my understanding that in some states banks cannot legally lend against a vehicle over 5 years old or 60,000 miles at the date of the loan - so if wintercruisr's LC is over that threshold it'll be harder to find a buyer with just cash.....

stever · January 2005

"Toyota's ninth SUV, the FJ Cruiser, will debut in February at the Chicago auto show, taking its inspiration from an early-1960s Land Cruiser."

link

Steve, Host

hvan3 · January 2005

Hi all!

A co-worker is looking to sell me his '96 TLC with 70K miles. Since I know nothing about TLC and SUV, what should I look out for?

1) This is a silly question, but what kind of mpg do you get? 15?

2) How is the A/C? Is it strong?

3) How is the transmission?

4) Do the brake pads wear out easily?

5) Is it expensive to insure? I live in CA.

6) Anything I should be aware of?

7) What can go wrong at 70-90K miles?

TIA! (Thanks in advance)

bcb1 · January 2005

I appreciate your helpful advice re: buying a used Land Cruiser. Sounds like it's a vehicle that we'll be very happy with.

The more I hear about used ML320's...the more I want to stay away from them! Pretty much everything I hear about the Land Cruiser has been positive. I like the BMW X5, but they are just too darn small - not to mention too pricey! Even a used one with a ton of miles still runs mid to upper $20's!

bcb1 · January 2005

I hear that the new TLC body style will be coming out in 2006...any truth to that?

If so; will the "old body style" 98-04 models take a hit in value on the used market? Not sure if it's a good comparison or not; but that's what happened when the "new body style" Tahoes/Yukons came out in 2000. Everybody wanted the new body; and the old (pre-99) values sunk like a rock.

I'm looking at buying a 98, 99, or 2000 model - so if that's true; I'd be better off waiting until the new body style comes out...true or false?

grantchstr · January 2005

My understanding is that this new SUV is an ADDITION to the lineup, not a replacement. Perhaps the shape of the existing model will carry on in the Lexus "brand" of Toyota if not Toyota itself.

A bit of history on this subject - I myself bought my Fj80 in 1990 when the body style changed - my expectation was that the new shape would continue for 15 years or more - and I was right. (btw, while there were engine and other cosmetic changes through the years - the basic shape was the same between 1990 and 1998/2004) As I recall the value of the model prior to 1990 didnt sink like a rock at all - became a collectors item if anything.

grantchstr · January 2005

http://www.supercars.de/data/toyota/2003fj%20cruiser/480/005.jpg

http://www.supercars.de/data/toyota/2003fj%20cruiser/480/009.jpg

bcb1 · January 2005

Geesh, you're right. The new one looks nothing like the super-plush current TLC. It reminds you of the old 60's and 70's body styles.

On a positive note; I didn't realize that a lot of banks can't or don't lend money on vehicles that are 5+ years old or have a certain # of miles on them. I am saving up and planning on paying cash for a used one - so knowing that bit of advice helps me out in the bargaining department quite a bit!

flyfish4life · January 2005

I know some are saying the FJ cruiser will complement or add to the current Toyota SUV line-up, but my goodness, 9 SUVs? Do you guys think it really makes sense for Toyota to continue to produce 3 full size SUVs (LX/LC/SQ) in the US. Just don't see much differentiation between the three especially if the next platform is going to be based on a (purported) shared F-Concept frame. My gut (not hope) is the LX and SQ will continue and the LC luxury version will only continue overseas. Will be interesting to see Toyota's comments on the FJ at the auto show next month and whether they mention future plans/impact on the current LC (probably wishful thinking).

steelcruiser · January 2005

SQ is US only and based on the Tundra frame. LC/LX is made in Japan on its own platform. This is Toy's luxury SUV, at least here, and is available in several different versions elsewhere in the world. The # of LXs/LCs being brought in to the US has gone down due to the SQ's introduction I'm sure. And the LX/LC is probably considered mid-size. The # of Toy SUV offered around the world is more than 9 when you consider the various trim and engine options and the 70 series that isn't offered here.

The FJ is, IMHO, designed for another niche ala the Scions etc. The Highlander seems to me to be a compliment or mabye competition for the Sienna?

LX only version of the LC has been rumored for a long time. People thought this was going to happen when the 100 series was introduced

stever · January 2005

There's a new discussion that just started up:

2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4X4

Check it out.

Steve, Host

flyfish4life · January 2005

Steel - I am aware of the current differences b/w the SQ/LC/LX and realize there are many different LCs across the world (70, 90, 120 series). Just has been rumored by various sources that the new US platform for the LX/SQ (and possibly the new LC 130 series) will be based on the F-concept platform introduced in Detroit last January. I sure hope the LC does not go to a shared frame, although I can easily see Toyota going that direction for obvious reasons. If that is the case, there will no longer be any material differentiation b/w the models other than cosmetics and minor tweaks, IMO and a sad day for LC enthusiasts.

steelcruiser · January 2005

FF4Life- hadn't heard about the F concept platform being shared and that being the basis for the LC. I thought that concept was on a Tacoma frame?

You're right--if that happens..............well, I don't want to think about it =(

My gut feeling is that it's not going to hapen, but what the heck do I know!

flyfish4life · January 2005

Here's a link - supposedly what the next Tundra/SQ/LX will be based on. This is just something I read on ih8mud.com. Probably just speculation.

http://www.toyota.com/vehicles/future/ftx.html

steelcruiser · January 2005

FF4L: I saw that at the LA auto show 2 weeks ago. It is big. There have been so many rumors floating around about the LC since the introduction of the 100 series which was "supposed" to be taken over by Lexus.

It might make sense to have the two versions (LX and LC) sold by one "brand". It might simply be called Landcruiser and Landcruiser LX? And let Toy continue with the SQ? The LC/LX platform has obviously become the luxury sport ute for Toy as it's gone from FJ to wagon to luxury SUV over the years.

I'm far too guilty of "forcing" my own preferences into my speculation! But I just find it hard to believe that Toy will reduce the luxury content of the LC/LX. Just have a feeling they're going to wow us all with the new one--whenever it comes out.

flyfish4life · January 2005

That's entirely possible. Matter of fact, my dealer told me last year that he had heard a rumor of separate dealerships (kind of like Land Rover) dedicated to Land Cruisers with various models and trim options. That would be ok by me, but not sure demand is there, but who knows if pricing is right. Just wish they would give us a hint at the FJ debut - again probably wishful thinking.

grantchstr · January 2005

I have had an Fj80 for many years but have never had the problem I am having now in the middle of the Blizzard of 2005.

Here in Connecticut its so cold that the middle seats will not stay down - I am guessing that the metal bars in the floor and on the clamp mechanism at the base of the seats that usually grip around that bar have shrunk below the minimum and cant grip anymore (I am sure that explanation is as clear as mud!). So the middle seat passengers pitch forward when the car stops... I dont have my third row in right now but this might happen back there as well if installed.

Also, anyone ever use a block heater - I seem to recall that some LCs were made with a block heater capability.

Toyota Land Cruiser

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