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My guess is that your local isuzu dealer wouldn't even know that it was lifted if you only do the OME and RS9000s. The RS9000s are perfectly fine because they are just shocks. As for tires you might pick up a set of steel 15" and run the bigger tires on them. I have 275-70-16s and I'm not worried.
Don't forget the biggest killer of automatic transmissions is heat, so in those other applications perhaps the cooling system/radiator isn't as beefy as the trooper.
-mike
No transmission cooler needed,tow a camper 4800 lbs. with a 00 trooper s 4x4 automatic, no problems. I have been towing in power drive, have over 15000 k all tow miles. no problems.
metal, carbon fiber, and wood available. I think the kits are around $300.00. Only drawback is that this is a stick-on kit not molded like original equipment. My Isuzu dealer wanted $1,000.00 for OEM kit
Catera
Z3 Roadster
Commodore
Rodeo
Trooper
All use the 4L30 GM Tranny from France.
-mike
Edit:
http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/transmissions/hydra/apps/4l30.htm
This is for current models so the catera and Z3 aren't listed along with the Trooper since the catera and trooper aren't made anymore.
-mike
It took out the driver side fender flare, drivers door, and the mirror scratched the 1/4 panel. The bumper also got scraped as well. Luckily the other guy's insurance is paying. Side steps protected the door frame from getting whacked.
http://isuzu-suvs.com/trooper/trooper-smack/index.htm
-mike
-mike
Mileage update: this latest tank average was 17 mpg. What did I do differently?? Turned OFF the A/C about a week ago. Wouldn't think that would make much difference. Something did!!
-mike
@##
Oh, well. I compounded off the black mark and went on my way. No dents, no serious scratches, no foul.
I had a similar accident in July in my 2001S, some lady in an Accord made a right hand turn from the left lane across my Trooper. Took out my bumper, driver side 1/4 panel, and left front rim. $3000, her insurance paid. I was/am very sad. Now my driver side window is EXTREMELY SLOW when going up. How could that be related?
I don't know how you can't see a Trooper?
BTW, my insurance gave me the option of working out the reimbursement with her insurance: Tokyo Fire and Marine (in Tokyo), I can't imagine the time zone difference or the cost of one phone call. So I said no thanks.
Got to drive a Grand Cherokee rental for a week. I used to think it was a big SUV before I got my Trooper, now it seems like a station wagon. Was glad when I got the Trooper back.
-Kevin
BTW, I mentioned I'd take a digital picture of the damage, but I never got around to it and now it's fixed. Imagine "Paisan-type" damage to the left rear quarter and bumper. It was $2500 and looks like new now.
Keep them running straight folks. Paisan, I may be interested in that nudge bar when you get your new stuff.
Jim
Good things the other driver in Paisan's accident didn't meet the flying Paisan.
A couple questions:
- (Probably a dumb one) Is there a way to turn on the interior lights other than reaching into the back seat and pressing on the dome? I can't find another switch.
- What is supposed to be illuminated on the drivers door? On mine, all I see is a very faint "Auto" on the one window switch. Everything else is dark. Just curious if this is normal.
- Intake noise is pretty noticible at low RPM. Is that a characteristic of the 3.5L engine, or is it something I should look into?
Nope I usually turn on the map lights in the front or open a door.
- What is supposed to be illuminated on the drivers door? On mine, all I see is a very faint "Auto" on the one window switch. Everything else is dark. Just curious if this is normal.
Yep all is normal.
- Intake noise is pretty noticible at low RPM. Is that a characteristic of the 3.5L engine, or is it something I should look into?
Definitely normal, I've been trying to figure it out from my Rodeo to my Trooper, I think it's a very low 1st gear or the fan clutch engaging.
-mike
I contacted his insurance company and they had already alerted them, so that is a good thing. I'm definitely not going to go through my insurance cause I don't want to get rated. I'll decline a rental cause I have 2 cars and it's not a big deal.
Mor details as events warrant.
-mike
Driving our 98 Trooper last weekend, doing 50 mph or so. Guy in front of me gets cut off and slams on brakes. I was paying attention and leaving enough distance ahead, so the Troop needed only moderate brake pressure. Unfortunately, the kid in the 1990 Jeep Cherokee was looking away at the wrong time and bumped/banged into the Troop. It was a pretty loud bang, and I'd estimate he was doing at least 10 mph more than me at impact.
The amazing thing was, I saw absolutely NO damage. This was hard to believe, but I looked more closely once I got home and still found nothing. I took down the kid's info just in case I decided to file a police report, which I am not going to do.
As soon as he hit me, I figured 'oh great, he bumped the spare tire and the whole rear door probably caved in.' Here's what seems to have happened: Cherokee has 2 rubber bumper guards that protrude 3-4" beyond the bumper. These guards hit my Trooper's rear bumper, and the Cherokee did not contact the spare tire.
I looked long and hard to see whether the rear bumper was sagging or anything, but I think it's fine. It already has plenty of scratches and scuffs, but I could not find any new ones caused by this accident.
Ironically, this incident occurred about 4 miles north on the same street on which my previous Trooper, a '96 S, was totalled about 3 years ago.
Steve
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1. You should have some kind of ground plate to go under the jack. On wet ground with the jack sinking I had to work fast. I came within 1/8th inch of not getting the Trooper high enough to change the tire.
2. Check the tire pressure of the spare. Mine was 18 lbs., enough to get me going but if it has been less I would have been in a heap of trouble.
3. A pipe extension for the lug wrench would have made changing the lug nuts much easier--and not run the risk of injuring your back.
4. Some kind of signaling device to warn other cars would have been helpful. Most cars passing by me were only 3 feet away.
5. A ground cloth would be helpful also. I used an old blanket to get beneath the rear wheels to position the jack.
Hope some of you folks learn from my mistakes. From now on, I am carrying all the essentials.
Please elaborate on the crack. Were the cracks caused by "up down", "for aft", "side to side" forces?
I have the Thule crossbars bolted direct to the three positions of Overlander brackets with no problems.
I'm about to change the roof rack configuration to a pair of "for aft" running rails each bolted to three Overlander brackets. The reason is to be able to share the crossbars with our other car by using the Thule OEM rack to Thule crossbar attachment. The Thule attaching part will allow quick removal of the crossbars. The Thule attachments will allow me to adjust the distance between crossbars too.
I am concerned that the "for aft" bars bolted tightly to the Overlander racks will set up huge stress when the bars expand and contract.
Candidates for "for aft" bars are:
1.) THule bars 78"
2.) http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/1280.html
3.)http://www.8020.net/PDF/NewProducts.pdf
Where the last two would allow thermal movement the first with a bolt through it would not. I am leaning toward the stainless strut channel for lowest thermal expansion and greatest ease of slip mounting with good malability so it would bend not break (if you had an aluminum coat hanger how many times could you bend it before it breaks compared to a steel hanger?)
Thank You for your help in avoiding stress cracks in roof racks.
I use a rubbermaid container from target. I usually have a first aid kit, flashlight, portable shovel, fix-a-flat, gloves, duct tape, raincoat, etc.. This is my standard offroad box, but I usually just leave it in back with a blanket and plywood square.
Don't forget about Isuzu Roadside Assistance, or AAA for flat changes.
Pugger
Thanks for the answers to my questions. I can't believe that there isn't another way to turn on the interior lights. That is a very strange omission.
Regarding the intake noise, what I hear is not fan or transmission noise. It just sounds like air being sucked in through the intake. Think of Darth Vader inhaling continuously. I only really notice it when accelerating from a stop or driving slowly in 1st gear.
-mike
The wires on the sensor are too short to really move anywhere. So what I did is pulled the sensor out of the mounting bracket and turned it around so that it wasn't blocked by the mounting bracket from circulating air. (if you remove your grill and take a look you will see what I mean.
the results...
the temp still surges at a stand still but it seems to surge more slowly and recover more quickly. If I get courageous, I might splice in additional wire so that I can move the sensor to a more ideal location.
I was concerned that my wheel rim would be bent, but later found this was not the case. The wheel was as round as could be. I was quick to get off the road, however.
I suspect that these holes are part of the factory process for robots carrying the unfitted body around for welding and dunking in treatement tanks etc..
http://www.overlander.com sells their own made bracket for their own made expedition roof rack. The brackets can be had alone for $39 or so they are part number T100. I do not want a full time expedition roof rack (parachute) on my roof, so I bought just the brackets. There is a very nice expedition roof rack from ECB find it from http://www.isuzu-suvs.com Paison's web site.
T100 brackets and three Thule 1.25" x 7/8" x 50" crossbars make up the rack I have now. Each crossbar was drilled half way through using a carbide bit starting with a very small size and going through 3 more sizes up to 5/16" to make a nice round hole in one side of the Thule bar near each end. The Thule bars being only 50" is ideal because the T100 brackets are near enough to the ends of the Thule bars to hold a nut on the inside of the bar with a needle nose pliers. The finished roof rack only shows the head of the bolt onder the T100 bracket and the Thule crossbar caps fit perfectly. The look is clean.
I am contemplating changing the roof rack system to allow moveable crossbars by using the Thule 415 crossbars to OEM roof rack brackets. Thule claims these are sturdy and I went to REI to measure them. They can clamp to bars from about 3/4" x 3/4" to 40mm x 40mm. The 415 are decently strong, enough to hold anything I would put on the roof. "Only a real Thule would put that much stuff on the roof."
Here is what I will do:
Option 1.) Thule cross bars 78" mounted front to back by drilling the T100 7/16 mounting hole out to 1/2" and get stainless square nuts to slide inside the Thule bars then bolt down as before.
Option2.) Use either aluminum or stainless strut channel and their particular mounting arangements.
Option 3.) Use two on each side of stainless 3/4" x 3/4" square tube because it had rounded corners and will fill up the T100 mounting surface. Between the two 3/4"x3/4" bars at each T100 bracket bolt into both bars horizontally a solid piece of stainless with a tapped 7/16" hole in the center and bolt these on. This would provide a boltable slot all the way down the bars for easy homemade expediton rack or whatever I would want to bolt up there. The Thule 415 brackets would clamp nicely to the resulting 3/4" x 2" parallel bars and it would be quite strong.
Option 3a.) Same thing, but pay http://www.smallparts.com to make custom stainless brackets for bolting down the 3/4"x3/4" bars next to each other. Would anyone be interested in buying such custom brackets for bolting down side by side two 3/4"x3/4" square stainless bars with a maximum dimension of 2.25"x2.25"x3x4" such that they could be used one on top of each T100 bracket and also be used opposite each other to clamp to the 3/4"x3/4" bars away from the T100 brackets?
Thank You
BoxTrooper
You mention OEM roof rack brackets. Is that from Thule? So following your suggestions above, I'll be able to have a system to mount a gear basket or even a canoe?? Excuse my amazement but I've had my Trooper since July and have had NO success in finding roof options.
Thanks.
Kevin
Roof bars aren't easy to find but they are out there. I bet if we could figure out the part # of the '92-98 Roof rack you could order it from Isuzu parts.
-mike
-mike
A 1/2 X 1 inch stainless .065 tube is .37 lb. per foot. Twin bars per side 6.5 feet long needs 26 feet or a total added weight on top of 26*.37 9.62 lb. Twin solid 6063-T6 aluminum bars 1/2 x 1 would add about 15.5 lb. up on top. Or about the same as one 78" Thule bar front to back on each side.
I have thought of a less expensive way to make the brackets to bolt it down too. Use 3/16 thick stainless 316 sheet stock cut in a 2.5 inch disc shape using put a 7/16 hole in the center and fold the edges down such that a 1.5 inch space in between them. Use a low profile bolt head to bolt down directly on the Overlander brackets. I have a request for quote pending for these little parts to be made accurately in a machine shop. The diameter of the disc bracket would cause side bent down about 1/2 inch so one of the disc bracket could go over and one could go under the twin bars to securely clamp anything. I specified additional holes 1/5 inches apart centered on the 7/16 hole and lined up with the gap between the twin bars. These extra holes would allow mounting Thule cross bars direct to the twin bars without need of buying the Thule OEM brackets using a 1.5 inch square u-bolt. The Thule bars are 1.25 wide and the u-bolt would be a close fit. Leave the u-bolt attached to the Thule Cross bars when removing and install quickly with the center 7/16 bolt and a cam nut like bicycle seat posts use.