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Someone I know has a 2 mile commute to work (I think in NY City that's about how far you walk after you park as close as possible to where you want to go). He has one of those computers that tells MPG while driving, he gets 7 MPG over those 2 miles on a cold engine. On the highway all warmed up the same car gets 32+ MPG.
This section described the "activation process"
http://www.cyberbizpark.com/FSt09_material.htm
It says the ceramic material "emmits electrons without outside energy source" and that "the material is stable". They need to select one or the other. If the lab results are true, then you need to get a far infrared source, not an inert piece of ceramic.
I think the lab results may be true under certain controlled conditions, however, you can't get something for nothing. The lab must have used an actual powered source of this ionizing radiation.
Electrons have mass, if they are always leaving the ceramic in high enough concentrations to make some difference in the fuel, the ceramics muct be loosing weight and therefore the material is actively decaying.
Maybe the inventor wanted to sell this thing but could not get insurance for providing an electric device that has gasoline in it to the public, then the marketing people got ahold of it and they will sell anything people will buy.
Still, I think it is worth its price which just happens to be free = zero dollars! But of course they want to charge $5 shipping. IF not satisfied send it back for a complete refund, except for the shipping charges!!!
In the '80s, a device was sold in Australia to enhance everything about a vehicle. Some plasma thing that was bolted to the firewall of a car with no other connections.
Apparently this device was supposed to correct the magnetic field of the vehicle and realign the molecular structure so as to enhance the performance and efficiency of the vehicle. The manufacturers of this device also claimed that as a result of everything being perfect, tyre pressures should be dropped to 20psi no matter what your car and handling will be unaffected will ride will be ultra soft.
I kid you not! This was on the market in Australia around '86/'87. I can't remember its name though, but I recall the word plasma was used a lot when referring to it.
It was a sales flop.
most of my trips are city driving all short distances anywhere from 10 mins to 30 mins.
guess there is not much I can do to improve the mpg, Trooper is a heavy suv.
Products like this play on our desire to have something work like magic. We are all hopeful that there is a product out there that will "FIX" things and cost very little. Products that add have tons of seemingly "expert" testing and testimonials are usually just snake oil and should not be used. Unless of course a good friend buys one and it really does work. HA!
Philip
Well it has not hurt, or helped. All it does is attract the dipstick when I try to put it back in after checking the oil.
Philip
-mike
I'll be replacing my spitfire driving lights with a pair of Cibie Super Oscars in the new year. Not cheap...but I can get a combo pair with harness, lock nuts and both clear and amber covers for the price of one Hella 4000. $300 in Oz.
Also, for info I just relocated my external air temp sensor from the high spot under the hood to just inside the lower air scoop on the front grill. Mounted that little sucker in about five different locations - and no matter where I put it the temp would rise when the Trooper stopped. Did a lot of testing - with the grill off or on and the hood open the temp would remain stable - at about any other location I chose except the factory location. With the hood closed and the grill back on the temp would rise - although ten times slower than where it was originally. The frustrating thing was that even where it is installed now - way below any heat source it still goes higher with the hood closed - so apparently there is some forward and down air flow when the hood is closed. I even used a charcoal grill lighter with the engine running to try an identify the best place to mount it - air flow into the engine. Had to cut the wires and splice in a 14" section to get it as low as it is - and it is a great improvement - but on my wifes 02 Camry - that I used as a guide for sensor placement, it flat don't move when her car is stopped.
Also - got a call from some lady in Denver wanting to buy my Trooper - apparently the market is drying up for available new and high quality used 4X4 Troopers.
For example with engine oil, I simply wait 2-4 hours for my fully heated engine to cool after coming home for the day before I pull the drain plug. Thus, contrary to your claim, my oil starts draining into the pan when fully heated. Granted, the ideal situation (at least from a solids draining standpoint) would be to pull the plug when the oil is scalding hot. However, I value my skin too much to do that. I also think my overkill 3k change interval and flushing through a few ounces of fresh oil minimizes particulate retention/damage.
If you are proposing to partially warm a cold engine, I think that is the worst possible technique. You would be re-distributing the oil and already settled solids back to the top of the engine. You would have to wait for them to drain back to the pan and as you noted that doesn't happen as effectively when the oil is not hot. In fact, you would be better off just pulling the plug on a cold engine rather than doing this.
This is just my opinion, YMMV.
Question; I can sell my 99 S (I have a buyer) and buy the 2000 LS for an additional $1200. Is it worth it? I have done a lot of work on my 99 (rust proofing, fluid change, new tires), and the truck has been ultra reliable, and has less miles. But the thought of an LS...
Any thoughts?
Also, don't forget the "hidden" costs of a 2000LS vs. 1999S. For example, the collision and comp insurance will be more on a newer, more plush model. The license plate fees will be more and depending on where you live they might be quite a bit more. You might also lose any remaining license fees on the 1999. In addition, depending on your state you might have to pay a sales tax for the purchase. These one-time and continuing costs could add up to some major money. Enough in fact to pay for some significant revisions to your lower mileage 1999.
Good luck either way.
I have a 1999 Luxury model. I like the moon roof, the leather seats and wood trim, and power and heated seats. I don't think that the 'multimeter' is worth trading for, nor do I think the fog lamps are of much value.
The are several things that I need to add to my 99 that will cost a few bucks (fog lights, running boards, roof rack) the 2000 had all that, plus another 8 months of warranty.
So, is everything checks out, I'll probably do it, otherwise, I am perfectly happy with my 99.
BTW, breakor has a good point on the tax and lic. It may add up to another 2k.
I love my Trooper and hate to see Isuzu make this mistake, I dont believe its going to be a big seller because its very long with the 3rd row seat...and its simply a GM and not a ISUZU....
I realized now that my 02 Trooper is now a collectors item...hold on to your Troopers everyone and lets watch how they outlast the new Ascender.
That was interesting reading...
Isuzu forcasting 2.6 billion dollar loss for FY 2003 despite predicting 47 million profit. Ouch!
No wonder GM is trying to cut ties. GM will have enough troubles of its own by years end.
I find it funny that Isuzu (and now Holden) executives see the Trooper model as a weak link in the chain. It may be. So how do they fix it? With the ascender!?!
I agree with ya Krystal, I hate to see the Trooper go. I'm glad to get my '02 with 10 years of powertrain warranty (cross fingers).
As for the Ascender being the saving grace for Isuzu...not likely but stranger things have happened. I'd put my marketing dollars on the Rodeo twins and the Axiom though. Every Axiom owner I talked with loves the vehicle AND would not even consider buying a typical bulky SUV. My guess is there are more consumers with this mindset. Isuzu's one strategic advantage: they have a 4x4 "station wagon" and the market is nowhere near as flooded with competion as the SUV market. Will Subaru continue to dominate this market segment?
It's the closest thing to what a Trooper/Jackaroo could have been in the future.
At least Holden is stocking up enough to carry it through 2003 and maybe into 2004. They only need about 4000 units to last them a year.
PS...Be aware that when Australians are talking about Rodeo, they're referring to the Isuzu pickup. The US Isuzu Rodeo is the Australian Holden Frontera, which also comes from the SIA plant in Indiana.
You will need to drill the rivets out carefully, trying not to enlarge the hole in the guard. Just drill enough to remove the head of the rivet rather than going right through. It should all just fall apart then.
When you instal the new flare, either use new rivets if you have a rivetting tool, or suitably sized self tapping screws.
Personally, I'd go back to new pop rivets. They won't work themselves loose.
If the flairs aren't prepainted, a panel shop may spray them for you and you may save some $$$'s by refitting them yourself. Make sure though that you get a clear over base coat finish on them.
Ford recieve So many letters explaining why they should not stop making the Mustang. It worked. So it just an Idea:) Jesse
-mike
After the most recent change (5.0 qts added), I added another 1/4 qt after 150 miles. After another several hundred miles, I added another 1/2 qt. 800 miles later, I added another 3/4 qt (last night).
Any ideas on the cause? Switching brands of oil? Switching from synthetic to conventional (about 20k miles ago)? Simple aging?
I don't mind the minor extra cost of adding oil and I don't mind checking and topping off regularly, but the fact that the consumption rate is increasing does concern me.
I have had to replace all filters inlcluding fuel filter frozen on 1984 but I carry a spare in winter so I was not stranded. I replaced the belts on the 1984 at 140K whether they needed it or not. The power steering idler pulley in the 1984 went bad, but I could still steer, and it was an easy thing to replace. At 201K when I sold the 1984 it was running great. I have only had the lifter ticking problem with my 1995 Trooper, and I keep it under control(silent) with on time oil changes. The 1995 has 130K+ miles and is just finished breaking in. I expect to keep the 1995 a very long time, maybe I'll make it to 500K!
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I would trade it for a 3.L diesel Trooper any day.
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The 2004/2005 Chevy Tahoe GMC Yukon are supposed to eventually come with a 6 cyl diesel Duramax (390ft-lbs torque) and that with great MPG. That would be tempting since I can get the GM employee discount. Maybe the Yukon to replace my wife's minivan and I'll keep the Trooper.
I think both the plugs mentioned in the manual come prelubed with an anti-sieze coating. Therefore go easy with any additional compound.
I also put some dielectric compound on the top of the plug.
The reason I ask is that the spec Purolator filter is 12-15psi, the spec WIX is 8-11psi, and the Champion spec is 11-17psi. I called Filtech, the company who makes the filter for Isuzu, and they wouldn't give me the time of day.
The 02 trooperchabra needs its first oil change. I hope to start a long and healthy maintanance history. Any comments or suggestions on oil brands, weights? Filter brands, #s?
I drive 95% on road (communting), drive in the mountains on road trips, and put 20000 miles a year on my vehicles. I live in the Pacific NW (mild winters, mild summers). If that is a factor. Your comments are welcome.
Interesting results on the oil cooler. They seem like an inexpensive part and a worthwhile modification. What cooler did you buy? Where did you mount it? How easy was it to install?
Perhaps I should clarify. I do not have the book or specs in front of me to reference. I chose the filter using the following method. I initially looked up the standard filter by looking up the filter call out for a 1999 Isuzu Trooper using the Purolator reference book. I then went to the back of the book to evaluate the specifications for that particular oil filter. I needed to maintain the M20x1.5 oil filter threads and the antidrain back valve. I chose to keep the pressure relief settings the same as the standard filter. By looking at the back of the reference book, I then pulled every filter off the shelf that had M20x1.5 threads, an antidrain back valve, and the same pressure relief settings. I then pulled each oil filter out of the box and looked at it. The PL14619 oil filter was the largest oil filter I could find that would have a seal small enough to fit comfortably on the stock flange. I have not investigated other brands nor did I know that there was pressure relief variation from one filter manufacturer to the next for the same filter application. Based on the specs you provided, I don't believe the variation from one manufacturer to the next is significant, IMHO.
Breakor, why did you ask Filtech for the time of day? why didn't you just ask them for the pressure relief specs?....just playing
I purchased a Derale engine oil cooler, P/N 15502. You can see them at www.derale.com. Summit car racing had the best price by far. DO NOT use the filters recommended on their(Derale) instruction sheet, they will leak! This was one of the reasons I investigated a larger oil filter. However, I have been happy with the cooler. I mounted it and an external transmission cooler in the air flow area below the front bumper between the fog lights. I made some brackets and used zip ties to hold it in place.
Chad
This is the Purolator oil filter web page. There are three ways to cross reference: 1.) find your vehicle, 2.) cross reference, 3.) find vehicles that fit a Purolator part number. Unfortunately the physical properties section in the big book in the autoparts store that contains the thread sizes and relief settings, find online, I did not.
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What is the diameter of PL14619 filter? BTW the PL14619 fits AMC, Dodge Jeep, Pugeot, Renault.
You will need to unplug the connector for the wires to the coil pack. The coil pack is integral with the 6" or so of plug "wire" underneath.
All you need for 5 out of 6 plugs is a standard long extension with the plug socket and wrench.
The drivers side rear plug is a little more tricky due to the proximity of the master cylinder. I was able to get it out by feeding in two short extensions, one at a time, plus a u-joint extension and a long extension to get clearance for the wrench to swing.
I recommend a torque wrench for final tightening. You definitely do not want to overtighten plugs in an aluminum block.
If anybody else is interested in going with a larger filter in the stock location, I have found 2 other filters that look like they should work. The Purolator 24458 with a bypass pressure setting of 8-10psi (vs. 12-15psi for the stock 14459 filter). Several people have reported using this one. Or, the WIX 51344 which has the same pressure relief setting (8-11psi) as the stock 51334. WARNING: I am still going through my stash of Filtech filters so I have not tried either of these filters. Therefore before using either of these larger filters do your own checking to make sure they will indeed work.
This is the Purolator oil filter web page. There are three ways to cross reference: 1.) find your vehicle, 2.) cross reference, 3.) find vehicles that fit a Purolator part number. Unfortunately the physical properties section in the big book in the autoparts store that contains the thread sizes and relief settings, find online, I did not.
..
What is the diameter of PL14619 filter? BTW the PL14619 fits AMC, Dodge Jeep, Pugeot, Renault.