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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • sealteam8sealteam8 Posts: 11
    What color is the smoke? Blue or black? If it's blue you have a bigger issue. If it's black it's carbon. An ignition coils won't make it smoke. Try cleaning out your egr valve or replacing it. It's more than likely black smoke from carbon with the miles that are on it. Also could be piston rings are leaking under hard acceleration.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited March 2011
    A ignition coil degrades over time. You never know how bad it was until you replace it. The coil should be replaced at least every 100,000 miles. The same applies to the ICM (Ignition Control Module) in the distributor. That device should be replaced when you replace the coil. Be sure to use heat sink paste (not dielectric grease) on the heat sink plate under the ICM and use new GM attachment screws because they serve as the ground for the ICM. Theuy are probably rusty by now. I recomend using Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease (heat sink paste) which is available at AMAZON or most electronics or computer parts stores for about $6 .. Always use a NAPA (or equal) distributor cap and rotor with brass electrodes. It is their most expensive Echlin cap and rotor.

    As far as white smoke coming out of the exhaust on acceleration, that indicates worn valve seals. That has always been a sore spot with Chevrolet S10 Blazers. Those seals usually only last about 30,000 miles before a puff of white smoke starts appearing out the tailpipe on start up. It will continue to get worse until the plugs start to foul and reaches the point that you will have to switch to AC Delco CR45TS spark plugs which are a higher heat range. After long periods of idleing (high vacuum) the white smnoke is at its worst when accelerating.

    Black smoke indicates the fuel injectors eeds to be cleaned. Use Chevron/Texaco or Shell gasoline with Techron. Techron works wonders for fuel injection systems and in-tank fuel pumps.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    I replaced the coil on my 1998 S10 blazer at 210,000 while trying to cure a cold weather miss. Changing the coil didn't fix it. The coil was about $30 from Rockauto, a web based parts house. The coil is a bit of a PITA to change since it is riveted onto the bracket. Had to grind off the rivet heads and then hammer out the rivets.

    The coil probably doesn't have any thing to do with the smoke. Blue or Gray smoke is usually oil getting past the rings and burning with the gas. Black smoke is usually over-rich with fuel.

    Another possibility is the transmission overheating (fatal) which will boil out the fluid and it lands on the exhaust pipe, leaving a trail of white or gray smoke.

    Good Luck.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    It is too late now but GM/AC Delco offers a replacement bracket with bolts in a package that will allow you to install a new ignition coil without grinding off the old rivets and re-using the old bracket.
  • OK... Thank you for the info John... The smoke I believe is a white/gray... the plugs are all clean... Transmission was rebuilt about four years ago... and running great. I suspect it was an ignition problem... as it runs great in all speeds and loads... just the smoke... and I experienced this before about six years ago... when my plugs had 100K on them. I only saw the smoke on hard excelleration... I went to check the plugs and as soon as I touched number one plug wire with the plug wire pliers to pull it off... the wire... fell off the boot... it had burned completely through and was just held together by a thread. As soon as I changed the wires, plugs, cap and rotor... the smoke and the check engine light went away. Up until now. I am intalling a new cap/rotor with brass contacts this weekend... and see what happens...

    Again... thank you.
  • Thank you so much for the info.... I use only Chevron fuel... and at the same station. There is no smoke at start up... or during idle... before and after warm up... only a dusty looking smoke... on hard acceleration from 50 mph and up. I check spark plugs every six months... Bosch Platinum single electrode... I am on my second set of wires... and wish now that I had ordered the Jacobs wires five years ago... when I placed my last order for parts on my 81 Grand Prix... best wires I have ever used. I have not tested my wires in some time... but they are factory Delco... and I am sure they have over 100K on them by now. I will be looking at spark plug wires this weekend at the parts store... AutoZone... where I got my brass cap and rotor... brass... five year warrantee... best deal I could find local and on the internetl... made a big difference in idle.

    The coil... is mounted exteral of the distributor on a bracket attached to the intake. I will take your advice and change it... just as a matter of pricipal... and having 225K on it... but I will do the wires first... as they are the weak link in the ignition system.

    I did not know about the heat sink grease... thank you... I was using die electric when I changed out ignition modules... still on the OEM one as well. I have a used back up... tested and ready to go.

    I have not seen any smoke since I changed the dist cap and rotor... but not 100% sure I have done any hard acceleration... I will do so... before changing testing and changing wires this weekend and let you know.

    Also... I have used AmsOil Synthetics in this vehicle since I purchased it... used... with 80K... and all original plugs, wires, cap and rotor which I ended up changing at 110K miles.

    That's all for now...

    TJ
  • sealteam8sealteam8 Posts: 11
    My best advice is if u own a gm use acdelco parts. For some reason I have seen gm's do some crazy things with no deco parts so just my advice to you!
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    The OE ignition coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer included a bracket that is bradded to the coil frame and a replacement coil does not come with a bracket. Therefore, I had to purchase a GM coil bracket and bolt kit separately in order to mount a new coil. However, the ignition coil on your 1996 Blazer does not mount the same way as the coil on my 1991 S10 Blazer and you can reuse your OE coil bracket.

    Silicone di-electric heat sink grease comes in the package with a new ICM (Ignition Control Module) but don't use it. Look up "di-electric" in the dictionary and it means "insulator" . You do not want a grease that is an insulator on a heat sink. The purpose of a heat sink is to "conduct" heat away from a electronic device so that is why you should use Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste on the ICM heat sink. . The only reasons silicone grease is recommended for the ICM heat sink is because it will not run out when it gets hot and it prevents corrosion. Always use new mounting screws when you install a ICM because the OE screws are probably corroded. The ICM is grounded through one of those mounting screws which passes through a brass sleeve in the ICM. Excessive heat and a poor ground due to corrosion will rapidly degrade an ICM .

    I use an Accel ICM because they send a longer electronic square wave to increase ignition coil dwell time to the ECM which gives the coil higher voltage saturation. An new AC Delco ignition coil is compatible with the Accel ICM. I have heard bad things about AC Delco Ignition Control Modules (ICM) but I suspect that rumor is from people who are using aftermarket high output ignition coils with a OE distributor and ICM. An AC Delco ICM cannot handle the draw of a high output ignition coil.

    Use an AC Delco ignition coil or good brand of replacement coil such as NAPA or Standard Motor products if "MADE IN MEXICO" bothers you. IMO, you should avoid Wells (Autozone) ignition and electronic products and they are "MADE IN USA". Wells Electronics made the Norden bomb sight during WW 2 and that device was not accurate.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    My 1999 Blazer is not blowing cold air or is very very faint. Charge was low so put some more refridgerant in. According to the gague was the correct amount. Also contained a dye and found no leaks.

    When I have the ac on the clutch will spin intermentianly every few seconds. sounds a little metallic when it kicks in, like a slight scrap of dry metal. Not sure if it is working or trying to cycle on.

    Is the ac clutch suppose to spin constantly when the ac is on?

    Going to try a new relay first but any help would be appreciated before I waste money on a new compressor
  • Hi
    I would try bypassing the cycle switch and see if it gets colder if so they are $9.99 at autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-Switch/_/N-91t6l?itemIdentifi- er=175014&_requestid=455251
    to by bypass it unplug it and out a jumper wire to it and see it the a/c gets colder
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    Thank you, definitely will. Also just reading up and think I may of screwed up charging the system. I swear the can of 134a with uv dye said to hold the can upside down and periodically turn to 3 oclock position. I watched green liquid funneling through the hose. I am reading you do not want that to happen and should be kept upright at all times.

    Did I screw up?
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    just reading up on the topic and think I may of screwed up charging the system. I swear the can of 134a with uv dye said to hold the can upside down and periodically turn to 3 oclock position. I watched green liquid funneling through the hose. I am reading you do not want to see liquid going in the accumulator and should be kept upright at all times.

    Did I screw up?
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Posts: 35
    edited April 2011
    Thank you for the great info...

    The ACDelco plugs I used are great... I have more performance... not that it was bad before... just forgot how good it really can be.

    I ohmed the wires... ACDelco 7.0mm... all are below 3.0... and they have over 100k on them. I also looks like my mpg is going back up to where it should be... I use to get 300 plus miles on the trip between fill ups... that being around 13 gallons... as I fill up when it is down to 1/4 tank.

    I am getting the Arctic Silver 5 heat sink paste... not sure where yet... I will try Advance Auto first... then go to the electronic parts stores.

    I want to run it for another full tank... then I replace the coil with an ACDelco one from Advance.

    Smoke from hard acceleration is gone.

    more later...
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    I have been using AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire platinum small center electrode spark plugs with a V-clipped ground elctrode and I have had great results with them. However, AC Delco (or who ever in Mexico is making them now) has recently changed the design of the Rapid Fire spark plug and now they appear exactly the same as standard AC Delco CR43TS spark plugs that I can buy for $2.00 each. The "new version" of the AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs do not have a small center electrode and they do not have the V-clipped ground electrode and they have a cadimum plated shell instead of a stainless steel shell. The AC Delco 41-803 Professional spark plug seems to have replaced the AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs but at an elevated cost of $4.00 each. I feel like this slight-of-hand trick is merely a way to get more money for the standard AC Delco CR43TS spark plugs by relabeling them and selling them as AC Delco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs. The last set of the bogus appearing AC Delcco #1 Rapid Fire spark plugs I purchased were sent back for a refund.

    I am now using Denso "TT" Double-Platinum PTF20TT spark plugs (made in Japan) at $3.25 each and am more satisfied than ever. I am going to avoid the AC Delco off-shore tomfoolery. The Denso "TT" (twin-terminal) PTF20TT are pre-gapped at .040" and are the highest quality spark plugs I have used. My associate has a 2010 Corvette C6 Z06 and it came from the factory equipped with Denso spark plugs. Go figure.
  • Has anyone thought about adding an external electric fuel pump... near the tank... for those who do not want to have the internal one replaced or the internal has not failed... but fuel pressure is just slightly low... 62psi? If so... is it possible? I know they have pumps that put out 65psi... Mallory for one.

    TJ
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2011
    You cannot use a electric in-line fuel pump with a ECM (Engine Control Module) controlled vehicle. The reasons are as follows.

    The ECM uses voltage inputs from several sensors to determine how much fuel to give the engine. The fuel is delivered under several modes which are controlled by the ECM.

    The modes are:

    Starting Mode:
    ECM turns on fuel pump relay for two seconds to allow pump to build up pressure.

    Clear Flood Mode
    If the engine floods, it can be cleared by pushing the accelerator pedal all the way down. ECM pulses the injectors to a 20:1 air/fuel ratio and holds it as long as the throttle is wide open and engine speed is less than 600 RPM. Returns to starting mode when TPS is below 80% throttle.

    Run Mode:
    Open loop - ECM ignores O2 sensor signal
    Closed loop - ECM calculates Air/Fuel ratio based on O2 sensor signal for a 14.7:1 A/F ratio

    Acceleration Mode:
    TPS input, MAP (or MAF) inputs signals ECM to provide extra fuel.

    Deceleration Mode
    TPS input signals ECM to cut off fuel.

    Battery Correction Mode:
    ECM compensates for low battery voltage

    Fuel Cut Off Mode:
    Igniton off- ECM cuts off fuel to prevent dieseling and flooding.
    ECM cuts off fuel at high RPM to prevent engine damage.
  • ronna767ronna767 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy. The problems started off minor. Try to turn over a few times and would not start. Then it would. Husband changed spark plugs first and after that It drove good for a day and then it got were it did-not want to start at all. It would Turn over but not start... Then he changed fuel filter and did good for a few days again and now it's back again- not wanting to start- wiIt ll turn over but not start. When You turn the key to start you can hear the fuel pump kick on loud and strong. Any suggestions on what's next? The fuel pumps are not cheap so I am trying to save that as the last solution! My husband thinks strainer/screen in fuel pump is clogged so is there a way to clean that instead of buying the whole fuel pump? I called around and all Auto Parts stores say's even if screen is clogged I have to buy the whole fuel pump assembly and for this vehicle is like $280+ so I am really trying to save that as my last solution. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
  • stanbcraigstanbcraig Posts: 1
    how did you solve that problem of the dead fish steering column?
  • chewy77chewy77 Posts: 2
    I read my owner's manual and tried doing a search on this site...but I couldn't find an answer. My Blazer is low on transmission fluid...at what location do I add more?

    Thanks!
  • my97_lolomy97_lolo Posts: 1
    i just replaced my upper and lower intake manifold gaskets due to leaking coolant from the lower gaskets. i put it all back together with all the sensors and wires plug in. i numbered it all and marked everything. the number 1,3 and 6 cylinder is not firing. the number one plug is dry. does any one know whats wrong or did anyone have the same problem please let me know. thank you.
  • kdibskdibs Posts: 1
    moog/mcquay & trw are very good.

    -ken
  • ncastorncastor Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 that I purchased used with 25k. I have experienced many of the same problems Ball joints, oil lines, thermostat, brakes almost every year, etc. This has been the worst vehicle I have ever owned as I would estimate that I have spent an average of $800 a year in repairs for various issues. In fact today, new rear brakes and rotors and was told the tranny pan is leaking and I have several other engine leaks.

    The worst thing is that their trade in value is horrible so I essentially have to hold off on trading it in until it is totally paid off.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited July 2011
    The 1986 - 2002 S10/T15 GM trucks and SUV are delicate and are high maintenance vehicles. You must be selective and use more expensive top quality parts. The owner or rwho ever is doing the repairs must be qualified. The ABS 4WAL (EBC-4) braking system used on 1989-1994 S10 Blazers are particularily troublesome. You must have a $400 GM Tech 1 scan tool to bleed the ABS modulator. Not may shops have those tools because they would not use them very often.

    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer LT 4x4 in mint condition with 160,000 miles on it. I insatlled a freshly rebuilt engine last year with performance upgrades and it runs better than it did when the SUV was new. I am the second owner. My daughter bought it new in Bremerton Washington in 1991 and gave it to me two years ago after she got married. Everything works including the cruise control! I will never trade it or sell it because the trade in or resale value is less than $2000.

    I have had a full service auto repair shop tell me their "computer is down" in order to avoid performing a state (Texas) inspection on my S10 Blazer. Apparently, the shop assumed the ABS 4WAL brakes would not pass inspection and they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool that is needed to bleed the ABS modulator. I NEVER take my S10 Blazer 4x4 to a auto repair shop except for the annual state inspection. If I cannot perform the repair or maintenance myself, I call upon a qualified technician that I found on Craig's List. He can do anything I need done for 1/3 the price that a repair shop would charge. He works in my garage and he will let me watch him do the work and will let me furnish top quality parts.

    Never take any of your vechicles to an auto repair shop, especially those in a large metropolitan area!!!
  • quantumtouchflquantumtouchfl Posts: 35
    edited August 2011
    I got this code after I installed the Jet SCU 2000 Speed Contol Unit to correct for speedometer reading faster than actual. The device did not work... only two wires to connect... hot and ground. I only had to drive 100 feet... the transmission would not shift... and the ABS light came on. I disconnected the unit at the transmission plug... Another test drive... ABS light was out... and the transmission shifted normally. A check of engine codes revealed ABS Pump Relay Circuit open. I have tested the ABS while it was raining... working perfect... I hear the pump... and I feel the wheels momentarily loose traction before the pump kicks in. I have cleared the computer by disconnecting the battery for ten minutes. Checked for codes again... I get the same code... I do not know where the relay is located...

    Thank you for you help in advance... TJ
  • caddyvcaddyv Posts: 1
    Is it an xtreme model with a manual 5 speed or is it automatic ?
    If I am remembering the 02 model correctly....
    If Automatic -
    Allow time for the engine to heat to operating temperature.And keep engine running.
    Locate the transmission dipstick in back of the engine near the passenger side of the vehicle.
    Take the dipstick out of the transmission fluid well and fill untill desired level is reached.
    If its a Manual (xtreme model)
    Then you need to find the fill hold on top of the tranny on the passanger side i believe
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    1999 Chevy Blazer 2 Door 4wd

    Trying to find a part number for the metal shims that go between the front wheel speed sensor for the abs and wheel hub. The shims adjust the high of the sensor so it does not interfer with the reluctor ring inside the hub.

    The part looks just like a soda pull tab. It is also one of the biggest causes of the abs activating a low speeds when they rust changing the gap on each tire.

    Called 4 chevy dealers and had no idea. Was not in the diagram. Rather not have to buy a new hub, it is only two years old with 7,000 miles on it. The sensors themselves do not come with them.

    Any ideas on a substitute would be appreciated, may just try to cut some out of a sheet of metal.
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    I just installed a driveworks wheel hub from autozone last night. It was the only one in stock. Now the abs triggers on the other wheel. The driveworks hub had poor reviews(discovered after the fact). I want to replace the other hub to correct the abs issue. Does it have to be a driveworks hub to prevent fix my abs issue or will another brand work fine?
  • It was the fuel pump in my situation. I had 50 lbs with key on and 52 lbs at idle before replace ment. After new pump I had 55 lbs and 60 lbs respectivley. I also had more power when driving.

    GM has problem with fuel pumps. I was told from dealer.
  • I just bought a '96 Chevy Blazer. The ABS light comes on steady. Attempting to troubleshoot, I found the lead power wires going to the ABS. One (black) is a ground. Two red wires are also present. One is from the battery and runs hot all the time. The other I'm not sure about, but isn't running hot ever aparently. Should this run hot from the ignition switch? Is it possible this is my problem? Also, I can't seem to find a schematic or any sort of diagram for this model. Does anyone know where to find one online?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,262
    You should read the codes stored in the ABS system to give you more focus on your diagnosis.

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