Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I really do like this car except for the problem with the vibration. The dealer is aware of the problem but cannot figure out what is wrong.
Ive had my PF SE 01 for just a few months..I have a little over 3000 miles and it hasnt given me any trouble..The reason I am thinking about selling it is because it is just too much for me..
I am single and very rarely make use of the room
the PF has..In fact I think I had someone in the rear seat once..I think I need something more like a F-150 or something like that..Im not sure how to go about selling this without putting an ad in the paper..I figured i'd come here for suggestions..The reviews from here is what helped me choose the PF..If anyone is interested im in NJ..It's a black SE,tan sport interior,6-cd,moonroof,4wd,loaded,cloth seats..Asking $30,000 or b/o
-Rob(rob0975@aol.com)
You may be experiencing the "shimmy" many posters have had. See Post #538 on this board. Smithmd graciously reposted a Nissan TSB or "NSB" on it there. I plan to take my PF in for the run on the Shimmy monday. Interestingly, my shimmy went away when I rotated the tires at 5k miles and returned when they were again rotated at 10k miles. You may have to have the index balancing performed.
than the engine oil and gasoline) -- the
automatic transmission, the limited slip
differential, the all wheel drive (AWD) transfer
case, and the brakes. But my owners manual
does not have the information (it only tells you
the fluid capacity for the engine oil), and I
cannot find anyone at my dealer who knows the
answers. I've already posted a message on the
QX4 board, but since I figure the QX4 and the
Pathfinder LE (at least the AWD version) would
have pretty similar (or identical) capacities,
I thought I would post here too.
Can anyone assist? Thanks!!
Cooling system with reservoir is 9.3/4 qts.
Transfer fluid Dexron III/Mercon 3.1/8 qts.
Front differential GL-5 3.7/8 pts.
Rear differential Gl-5 approved for LSD 5.7/8pts.
80W/90 is perfered for the differentials
I use Amsoil in the differentials and have a Amsoil
foam air filter.
Automatic transmission Dexron III/Mercon 9 qts,
This is out of a 2001 PF Service Manual.
Hope this helps....
filter?What is the part # and how much did you pay?
mine and found it to be within1/2 deg F or better. These thermometers are only accurate if the vehicle speed is over 15 mph for 100 sec. This is so the thermometer does not pick up any heat from the engine. The senser is in front of the radiator on the piller. You have to drive the vehicle for several minutes before the thermometer reads accurate. It updates itself every 40 sec. You cannot get into the vehicle turn the key on and read the thermometer. I hope this helps alittle.
I think it has enough. I might get better fuel economy and I know it filters
better than the paper filter. I think I paid about $28. Some have used K&N
but if you see the SAE J726C Test Method the K&N only partly filtered out the
large particles. Cheers........
www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/air.filters.html
And yes, my wife got plenty of pictures of the Pathy (mainly to protect ourselves in case the leasing company balked at the condition, which was great). We had no problems turning it in, the appraiser wrote zero damage on the report.
Was suppose to pick up the new ride yesterday, but due to bad weather and my bank not clearing funds fast enough, will pick up tomorrow (hopefully).
Will still check in here from time to time to get that "Pathy" feeling. This group is definitely one of the better bunch of folks in Townhall.
Happy Motoring!
TC
compass unit? It's independent from the main computer. Cheers......
Just as a comparison, go test drive a 2001 and feel/hear the remarkable difference.
TC
TC
Finally had a chance to check out the complaints about the rear hatch release locking the doors (have the flu so didn't dare play in the cold). I checked the Electronic shop manual and physically played with the keyswitch. If you turn the switch clockwise it releases the hatch glass lock and locks the doors, as stated before. You can then turn the keyswitch counter-clockwise twice (within 5 secs.) and unlock all the doors again. I think Nissan chose this operation as the least of the problem causers. See below for explaination. There are two wires on the switch (on a connector in the tailgate). I think if the pins in the connector are reversed the switch should work more logically. I'm going to try this when the weather warms up. My reasoning is that since counter-clockwise is supposed to be unlock, and clockwise is supposed to be lock, why would clockwise unlock the glass? Reversing the pins would make clockwise unlock (tailgate would unlock and glass would unlatch with one turn, all locks would unlock with two turns as well as glass unlatching). All doors would lock if turned counter-clockwise. I suppose they were trying to protect us from unlatching the glass and then throwing the tailgate up.
So, there are two "fixes" here I think.
1. Live with the way it is, remembering to turn the keyswitch counterclockwise twice after releasing the glass.
2. Rewire it, then always remembering to relatch the glass before lifting the tailgate.
Life is full of compromises.
This is the biggest complaint on my 01 PF.
However, I didn't have to make "multiple trips" for the check engine light to go off. Within 16 miles (single trip) of putting the gas cap back on (DOH!) the light went out.
kj
Sorry to read about your mishap. I'm glad that you were not injured and your vehicle was not damaged. Unfortunately, there is no way that you can convert your part-time 4WD system to the auto 4WD system. They're completely different and Nissan doesn't even offer the auto 4WD system with the manual tranny Pathfinder (I assume there are some sort of compatability issues). Even if you could, it would require major surgery and lots of $$. Definitely not worth it.
I guess you now know why I keep suggesting to those with the auto 4WD system to leave it in auto mode at all times. There isn't always enough time to pull the 4WD lever/flick the switch to avoid problems.
FWIW, anytime the rear wheels start to spin on ANY vehicle, directional stability is immediately lost and the vehicle's rear end starts looking for a curb or a ditch. Perhaps you could've activated 4WD before coming to a stop and pulling out into traffic? You mentioned there was some snow, so that wouldn't have been too bad for the PT4WD system. Of course, you'll have to switch back to 2WD once you're back on non-snow covered roads again. Another thing that you could try if you're on that sort of surface again is starting out in 2nd gear instead of first (in 2WD mode, that is). This will provide the rear wheels with less torque and they'll be less likely to break free and spin, hence causing the skid.
Take care!
Drew
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
But, I'm glad that you escaped unscathed, xplorer2.
The second comment is the way I would go if I were you. Use 4WD in the winter unless the road is bare. You can shift in and out of 4 HI while moving. That's what I have always done on my Toyotas (Landcruisers, and 4Runner). You will not do any damage using 4WD unless the road is bare, and then the vehicle will tell you to shift (very hard to turn - vehicle slows down when turning etc.). You can get away with using 4WD on bare roads, it just wears out the tires, differentials, and transmission faster, but with "shift-on-the-fly" it's not an issue.
What could this be? I looked everywhere (I think).
Also, I tore the leather (slightly) in one of the head-rests moving this past weekend. How much will this cost to fix?
Thanks.
JM
Like smithmd, I use the 4wd when I need "quality" acceleration from stops, then shift back to 2wd after I am moving along. Here in Denver, they use an exorbitant amount of gravel on the roads and the 4wd to 2wd works great. I don't use it a lot, but it definatly makes a difference!
Rattle:
Check the compartment above the spare tire in the cargo area, or the side bin and latches. I had some flares and other emergeny type items in there and they rattled around a bit. I just placed a shop towel down first, placed the items on top of it, then bunched it between the items and it cleared up the rattle.
FWIW, I thought a rattling noise was coming from the rear. It turned out to be my sunglasses in the overhead compartment. Cabin noises can play tricks on you....
Drew
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
17 to 21 MPG. The engine has a knock senser and several other devices
to protect the engine from detonation.(knock). The fuel in most places have
alcohol in it during the winter witch changes the octane rating and who knows
how long the super-unleaded fuel has been in the tank at the gas station.
I think they use benzine and other very volatile additives to make super so
who know what you are getting. I will keep using fresh reg-unleaded in mine PF
It might be a good idea to choose the octane you want and keep using it. Some
computers take awhile to "learn" what type of fuel and some even "learn" your
driving habits. If you are pulling a trailer,boat,ect. it might not hurt to use super.......Cheers.