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-Make sure the thermostat is per the manufacturer's specifications - correct degree
-Get rid of that cap and get a cap per the manufacturer's specs with the same pressure rating.
-Fill the radiator with coolant right up to the top and install cap.
-Fill the reservoir to the proper level indicated.
This should work well if there is nothing wrong with the radiator or engine. If the problem still persists, I would begin to suspect a bad head gasket, which is allowing the coolant to seep into the combustion chamber and consumed. Do you notice any white exhaust smoke by the way?
I once had a VW Dasher, I think a '74. I got it for free, which means I paid too much.
It had a dealer-installed A/C that would spit little drops of water and grains of ice (micro hail) when it was working 'right'. When it was not working right, whenever you turned on the A/C, it would emit a cloud of *DENSE* white smoke out the tail pipe. It was like there was a blizzard or an avalanche behind you. Total whiteout conditions.
There was nothing on that Giugiaro-designed car worth a dime except for the beautiful little VDO clock smack in the center of the instrument cluster, which kept perfect time.
Used to call the car 'Schweinhund'.
Here is my problem. I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker and the cruise control has stopped working. I have checked the vac. hoses and the wiring but the sucker still does not want to work. Any suggestions on what I can look at next, or what might be causing the problem?
for your help.
I was wondering if anyone has some history/knowledge concerning the fuel filters in Toyota Camry. A new mechanic suggested a change every 15 to 20K miles because of some 'personal experience'. He seems trustworthy and the people where I work don't think a fuel filter is worth a scam (too cheap).
Anyone know better?
Thanks
116--If the fuel filter is for a non-fuel injected car, then yes, replace the fuel filter at 15K. Otherwise, you shouldn't need to do it that often, more like 60K.
have narrowed another problem to something called light module (the brake lights no longer work but everything else does).
how difficult are the 'light modules' for '91 Toyota Camry to find/install??
better to go with used (like from junkyard) or new (about $300 )?
thanks again :-)
questions? Am I asking too many? I'm not even sure how to check if I get any answers. Thanks, and Good Luck to all!
When you unscrew the fuel cap (to the tank), it there supposed to be a vacuum sound? There is no vacuum - I put some Handi-wrap around the filler tube and clamped it with an elastic, ran the car and there was neither a vacuum effect or outward pressure effect on the clear plastic wrap.
Any comments?
About your car: The Escort has historically been one of the most reliable cars there is, at least engine-wise. I'm not familiar with the current engine, but might assume the same. I know people who have well over 100k miles on their Escorts, which is GREAT for such a cheap car. Now, will $4/quart oil do you much better than $1/quart oil? Considering money is a big factor for you, I say you might want to change the oil every 3k miles religiously using a good brand name dino oil for $1/quart, or the best price you can find. Put the extra $3/quart in your pocket, so you can buy a BMW or other super car next time And always, when you start the car cold, don't touch the gas for a minute at least! NEVER rev it right away when starting!
Century, I'm not a mechanic, but here is what I suspect: The total vacuum might depend on the size of the (not sure technically what it is called) absorption canister used, which sucks up the gas vapors so they don't explode while your gas is sloshing around in there. If they use a large canister, most of the breathing is done there, and you won't notice vacuum at the input. Totally a guess, and I yield to those who might know for sure! I've observed different cars, some have strong vacuums when releasing the cap, others are not noticeable.
Vacuum leaks stink. I had a 1980 Delta 88, "experimental environmental stage controls" they should have called that setup. Just try finding the vacuum leak with about 10 different tiny hoses running all around that darn carb
I have replaced the fuel filter, dist. cap, rotor, plug wires (plugs looked fine), MAP sensor, checked the oxygen sensor (OK) and used some of Mopar's Combustion Chamber Conditioner. Still there.
Don't believe it's the tranny because one time when it happened at 40 mph, I punched the pedal and it kicked down like normal.
Looking for suggestions.
What should I do to insure that it will function when I try to start it up.
in other words,are there any pre-warm up items to take care of?
many thanks for your suggestions.
i plan to buy a 91 isuzu amigo.all i wnt from it is a trouble free performance for 3 yrs .
what are the stuff i should be looking for before buying this vehicle.
what are the maintenance costs that i would be incurring .how reliable is the vehicle
it has done 90 k,stick shift,2 wd.
vish
You might try taking your Avalon to the dealer. Mention the TSB, and ask if they'll fix it under warranty.
Good luck.
after i stop the engine or parking my car under the sun. having been back to
the dealer three times, first time they said no problem, second time they
changed the nozzle, third time they maded a hole on the lip of the washing
fluid reservoir, but the problem still there, who has any idea why it is happening.
thank advance
Thanks
Gus, Conference Host
Next, you claim that doing the same procedure the next day did not bring the pressure up. Hearing this I'm thinking that it is not a pump problem, but electrical in nature. Is your gauge electrical? I think it may not be working. Or, finally, that there is a plugged up oil vein in the engine causing this random problem. Are you the same guy who said that the owner religiously changed the oil on that car? If that is true, I doubt there would be any gunk in that engine. If the oil gauge is electrical, I'm not sure, but think a mechanic may be able to verify if it is working by checking it with a voltmeter. Let us know.
I'm not condescending, but you are looking at the oil gauge and not the temp, right? Ford has a bad history of bad thermostats, FYI. Click and Clack have a funny but true take on Fords and thermostats: http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/CC/CC7516TXT.html#1
Gus, check out what I saw there: MUFFLER OUTLET ASSEMBLY MAY HAVE THE SAME RESONANT FREQUENCY AS THE SPARK PLUG FIRING FREQUENCY
I'd like to get you on video explaining THAT to one of your customers, and get a closeup of their resulting face, hehehehe!
Zhi, does the dealer think the problem is heat related? Is there a steady stream when this happens? And, did they check out the PUMP and the electronics?
New Beetle needs tranny? Dead on arrival? Is there a backorder of parts also, I take it?
I'd like to get you on video explaining THAT to one of your customers, and get a closeup of their
resulting face, hehehehe!
Have you ever seen the way a dog cocks its head at you when it's confused? That would be what the customers would do after anybody tried to explain that one.
Thanx again. Wahaw
I have a 1991 Dodge Caravan. The brakes are giving me a fit. The idiot light comes on and the pedal is real spongy. The Chiltons says to bleed em and it give detailed instructions on how to do this. I follow the procedure and when I start the vehicle, the light is off and the pedal is normal. A couple of pumps and the light comes on and fluid seeps from around both resevior caps and the pedal again gets spongy. The Chilton's goes on to say that a spongy pedal is caused either by air in the line or a leak. The only leak I get is the fluid that seeps from around the res caps after I bleed the lines. Maybe I need to bleed em again be cause there may be an air bubble. I did this until I was sure that there was no air in the lines, in fact I did not see any bubbles come out. What do you recommend?
Thanks ,
Rick
Ehaupt, I pay a detailer $120 for a very nice detail job. And he uses a soft wax, not the hard kind dealers use, which immediately scratches your paint. Don't do it.
Mongus, could you have gotten a bad EGR replacement? You did buy a genuine Honda part right?
Holly, is the battery terminal clean? If it is corroded, you could need a new cable or simply to thoroughly clean the connections. Baking soda will neutralize acid, and is good for scrubbing the terminals with. Ask your dealer about proper procedures before disconnecting the cable on your car if that is necessary. Does the cable looked burned anywhere? Let us know how bad the damage is.
Ddsw, have you noticed any special conditions under which this happens? If it goes a long time without the problem, there must be some significant condition that contributes. Perhaps hot weather? Have they checked the fuel injectors for leaks? How about a pressure test of the cooling system (check for coolant mixing with gas.)
guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
Thanks for the suggestions- will discuss them with the independent VW guy. The dealer basically won't spend money to look for anything not obvious- not showing up on the computer, since they haven't been charging me. Since I'll lose so much money of I give up and sell it, have decided to invest some to see if it can be fixed. The weather makes no difference. Only key is that the bad jerking occurs fairly soon- within 5-10 minutes- after starting out after it's been parked for several hours.
vramnath: Have you noticed any problems with your power steering? What exactly do you mean by "sliding out"? Is it slipping? Is there any kind of fluid leaking around the pump?